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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

[BUILD] MFOS Echo Rockit eurorack
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music From Outer Space Goto page Previous  1, 2 [all]
Author [BUILD] MFOS Echo Rockit eurorack
j450nn014n
Based on what you said, looking at the picture I sent, you're saying I have it backwards? I CAN see that the square hole on the mother board does correspond to the red stripe on the cable (though I've read elsewhere never to trust the rest stripe. But the image on the board itself suggests that the orientation is inwards.
synthcube wrote:
check the orientation of that power header- its supposed to be able to allow the cable to connect outside the boundary of the pcb sandwich


I will trust you and have faith. You designed it after all. Thanks for the fast response.
j450nn014n
Hi. I hope I can get some advice. I finished building my Echo Rockit. It starts up and makes sounds, but not the sounds I'd expect. I identified 2 problems so far. 1) the output volume doesn't work. If you turn the dial from 0-8 nothing happens, and then it jumps to 100%. Don't know what's wrong with that but solder is good. It is a 100k pot (tested with my multi-meter) and the values run correctly from 0-100 on the ohm meter setting. 2) the 79L05 voltage regulator is VERY HOT on the +12 side of things. I measured it at 140F. Is that ok? That's scary hot. I do know that the cap next to it is properly oriented.

None of the IC chips are hot at all, and they're all oriented properly. I'm no electronics guy, but I've successfully built a noise toaster and a WSG. Anyone willing to help trouble shoot this? or is there a better forum to ask these questions?

Thanks!
Bodo1967
j450nn014n wrote:
1) the output volume doesn't work. If you turn the dial from 0-8 nothing happens, and then it jumps to 100%. Don't know what's wrong with that but solder is good. It is a 100k pot


Sounds as if you used a logarithmic instead of a linear pot.

j450nn014n wrote:
the 79L05 voltage regulator is VERY HOT on the +12 side of things. I measured it at 140F. Is that ok?


No. They may get a little warm, but not that hot (140 °F is about 60 °C, which I am more familiar with). My guess is a wrong component since you wrote 79L05. It must be an 78L05 (on the main board, that is - or were you referring to the additional Eurorack board?

Speaking of which - where do these 79L05 (I see there are two of them in the Eurorack version BOM) go anyway?

I am currently building a 'conventional' Echo Rockit on a self-etched board, but there is only one of those voltage regulators (U2) on it, and that's an 78L05.
j450nn014n
Bodo1967 wrote:
j450nn014n wrote:
1) the output volume doesn't work. If you turn the dial from 0-8 nothing happens, and then it jumps to 100%. Don't know what's wrong with that but solder is good. It is a 100k pot


Sounds as if you used a logarithmic instead of a linear pot.

j450nn014n wrote:
the 79L05 voltage regulator is VERY HOT on the +12 side of things. I measured it at 140F. Is that ok?


No. They may get a little warm, but not that hot (140 °F is about 60 °C, which I am more familiar with). My guess is a wrong component since you wrote 79L05. It must be an 78L05 (on the main board, that is - or were you referring to the additional Eurorack board?

Speaking of which - where do these 79L05 (I see there are two of them in the Eurorack version BOM) go anyway?

I am currently building a 'conventional' Echo Rockit on a self-etched board, but there is only one of those voltage regulators (U2) on it, and that's an 78L05.


THANKS. I bought a kit from SynthCube, so perhaps they sent me the wrong pot? With your advice I can compare the pot I was given with some others I have lying around. The whole "logarithmic instead of a linear pot" is so obvious, but it never occurred to me.

I'm more familiar with 60C as well, but I posted F because I assumed more people would be used to that.

There are 2 x 79L05 on the eurorack version board to regulate the +12/-12 power coming in. And there's a 78L05 as well but it seems to be fine (cool and all that) up deep in the board. The problem is that all these parts are from the kit, so if they're wrong, I was sent the wrong parts or somethings. The 79L05 is pretty much the first component coming into the board, so I cannot imagine what else might be causing the problem.

Just for the record, I'm using a MakeNoise Skiff http://www.makenoisemusic.com/cases/skiff so it is not like I have some weird out of control power source (which is totally possible in my world).

Thanks for the confirmation... I hope someone's got some other thoughts.
Bodo1967
j450nn014n wrote:
perhaps they sent me the wrong pot?.


Are they marked with an A or B (as in, "B100K" or similar)? "A" is usually logarithmic (the original MFOS BOMs say "audio"); "B" is linear. There may be exceptions, but they are very rare, so in most cases you can go with this.

j450nn014n wrote:
There are 2 x 79L05 on the eurorack version board to regulate the +12/-12 power coming in.


Really? Not a 78(L)05 and a 79(L)05? I've built quite a few symmetric PSUs in my life, but never used two 79XX in them seriously, i just don't get it hmmm..... . Always a 78XX (+ voltage) and a 79XX (- voltage).

Perhaps double check on this? Do you have the proper voltages at the power in points on the main PCB?

Edit: Yes I see there are two 79L05 and one 78L05 in the Eururack version BOM. According to your information and what I wrote above I'd really have expected two 78L05 and only one 79L05 instead.
j450nn014n
Bodo1967 wrote:
j450nn014n wrote:
perhaps they sent me the wrong pot?.


Are they marked wioth an A or B (as in, "B100K" or similar)? A is usually logarithmic (the original MFOS BOMs say "audio"); B is linear.

j450nn014n wrote:
There are 2 x 79L05 on the eurorack version board to regulate the +12/-12 power coming in.


Really? Not a 78(L)05 and a 79(L)05? I've built quite a few symmetric PSUs in my life, but never used two 79XX in them :despair: :hmm: . Always a 78XX (+ voltage) and a 79XX (- voltage).

Perhaps double check on this?


ZMFG! You could be right! Damn. You see the silk screen on the board is so blurred that all you see is 7*xx. All I could do is assume that U2 was 78 and this one was 79. I could thus have them backwards. The kit came with 2 x 79 and 1 x 78.

I'm not that experienced, and I assumed that I was wrong. I was going to put the 78xx in the + voltage. As you can see from this picture... the silk screen is really blurred. (and yes, the power is backwards in this image. Don't be alarmed. I put it in the other way around.)



I'm going to go and swap it out for a 78XX and report back. THANKS@
Bodo1967
I think that probably should be an 78L05 at the bottom edge of the pic. The pin in question appears to be connected to the + side of the tantalum cap, which makes sense with a 78L05.

And yep, it is blurred, but I'd probably read a 78 there if I had to wink.

And the connector needs to be put in the other way round (cable facing away from the board), but I think that's been pointed out before wink.

78L05 on the main board is correct. I stick with what I wrote before concerning the need of two 78L05 and one 79L05 wink.
j450nn014n
Bodo1967 wrote:
I think that probably should be an 78L05 at the bottom edge of the pic. The pin in question appears to be connected to the + side of the tantalum cap, which makes sense with a 78L05.

And yep, it is blurred, but I'd probably read a 78 there if I had to ;).

And the connector needs to be put in the other way round (cable facing away from the board), but I think that's been pointed out before ;).

78L05 on the main board is correct. I stick with what I wrote before concerning the need of two 78L05 and one 79L05 ;).


1) swapped out the 79 for a 78 and that seems to be working fine.
2) I'll check what I got supplied with and I think I got 2 x 79; 1 x 78 by mistake.
3) connector issue was just that the silk screen layout 'suggested' that it go that way, but it was obviously wrong, as the voltages made it clear it should be the other (correct) way.

Going to deal with the pot issue and try it out again.

I'm making notes about this and other issues and will post them somewhere as a bit of a noob guide. I love Ray Wilson's instructions for the Noise Toaster. He really knew how to get into the mind of the learner and talk to him/her that way. It's not something other folks can easily do.

THANKS for your patient advice.
j450nn014n
Bodo1967 wrote:
I think that probably should be an 78L05 at the bottom edge of the pic. The pin in question appears to be connected to the + side of the tantalum cap, which makes sense with a 78L05.

And yep, it is blurred, but I'd probably read a 78 there if I had to ;).




So, I replaced it and it didn't work. I seem to have damaged the board removing the 79L05, because my soldering iron's acting stupid (seriously) but I was too stupid go get another soldering iron (the old uncool one), so it is my fault. I removed the IC, place it in an area called kluge space, ran some wires and hoped it worked. It did! I'm thrilled because I'm never able to troubleshoot or fix things. If it doesn't work, I'm screwed.

So thanks to you and synthcube for help.

I made a short video as evidence.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBktZP-Bmug
Brian2020
This delay looks interesting being that there is a tabletop version. My eurorack case is on the smaller side so this would be a great delay for my needs plus it will (hopefully) be easy to use with a Moog Mother32 and a Moog Minotaur. I can find a prebuilt model and the kit for almost the same price. The pre built is more but not by much. I enjoy putting pedals together so I was hoping for feedback about this build. First if it’s something I will likely screw up Id rather not go with the kit. Also curious if the build is enjoyable or satisfying to put together? Lastly have more comprehensive instructions come out yet? I’m spoiled from BYOC kits, they practically hold me hand through the process with incredible instructions and color photos to follow.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Brian
j450nn014n
Brian2020 wrote:
This delay looks interesting being that there is a tabletop version. My eurorack case is on the smaller side so this would be a great delay for my needs plus it will (hopefully) be easy to use with a Moog Mother32 and a Moog Minotaur. I can find a prebuilt model and the kit for almost the same price. The pre built is more but not by much. I enjoy putting pedals together so I was hoping for feedback about this build. First if it’s something I will likely screw up Id rather not go with the kit. Also curious if the build is enjoyable or satisfying to put together? Lastly have more comprehensive instructions come out yet? I’m spoiled from BYOC kits, they practically hold me hand through the process with incredible instructions and color photos to follow.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Brian


I put mine aside because I didn't build it well, but I blame myself more than the instructions. That was 7 months ago, and my soldering skills are much better, though I can still screw up anything. I would say it is an easy build, if you things right. What I need to do right now is go back and reflow everything. And use more flux. It is a crazy little thing, more a monster than an echo, though the echo's good.
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