David Haillant’s Eurorack Stripboard - questions

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Devon Dumpling
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David Haillant’s Eurorack Stripboard - questions

Post by Devon Dumpling » Fri Feb 24, 2017 2:22 pm

I bought a couple of these https://www.tindie.com/products/dhailla ... board-pcb/ and they look great. I have some questions:

Q1) Can anyone who has used them tell me what components are needed for the 12v rails, there are spaces for caps. I can't find any documentation on David's site.

Q2) One of the projects I have in mind is an Arduino-based clock generator; it won’t need 12v, just 5v. So could I actually omit whatever the answer to Q1 is and connect the 5v pad (that is straight out of the Eurorack power socket) to the 12v rail and make it a 5v rail instead? Then I wouldn’t have to bother with a voltage regulator etc from the 12v rail to the Arduino. My power supply is 4ms Row Power 30 if that’s of any significance.

I’m also interested in knowing what you good people have made with these boards - care to share?

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Post by pre55ure » Fri Feb 24, 2017 4:38 pm

The big caps are usually 10u to 47u exact value isn't super important.
there are also usually smaller caps from + and - rail to ground as well. I use 100n typically.

#2 yes, you can just use the 5v power from the bus (if it has it). I'd still put the caps on there though.

You might want to buffer the output of the arduino though, so in that case you'd need to use the 12v rail for an opamp or transistor.

Those are actually very nice looking boards, and cheaper than most of the other breadboard layout style PCB's I have seen. Will definitely be ordering some of those in the future.

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Post by Devon Dumpling » Sun Feb 26, 2017 5:31 am

pre55ure wrote:The big caps are usually 10u to 47u exact value isn't super important.
there are also usually smaller caps from + and - rail to ground as well. I use 100n typically.
Thanks for that. Are the smaller caps you refer to between +/- and gnd rails the square cream-coloured things in this picture https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8719/1698 ... 9a8f_b.jpg (from David's site)? I've never seen caps like that.
pre55ure wrote: You might want to buffer the output of the arduino though, so in that case you'd need to use the 12v rail for an opamp or transistor.
I thought about that, but decided not to - if I'm stupid enough to plug something into my "clock out", then I'm guessing the worst that could happen is the ATMega gets fried and I buy another one for a couple of quid?

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Post by pre55ure » Sun Feb 26, 2017 2:30 pm

Maybe?

Those are film caps, which are usually bigger and more expensive than the small bypass caps I was referring to. Cheap ceramic caps are perfectly fine.

As for the buffering - sure, atmega's are cheap, but I was actually suggesting it because for some modules +5v wont get them to trigger reliably.

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Post by Devon Dumpling » Sun Feb 26, 2017 3:07 pm

pre55ure wrote:Maybe?

Those are film caps, which are usually bigger and more expensive than the small bypass caps I was referring to. Cheap ceramic caps are perfectly fine.
Thanks again!
pre55ure wrote:As for the buffering - sure, atmega's are cheap, but I was actually suggesting it because for some modules +5v wont get them to trigger reliably.
Ah, I see! :doh: Didn't realise that could be an issue. Thanks for the help!

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Post by Devon Dumpling » Mon Feb 27, 2017 1:14 pm

pre55ure wrote:As for the buffering - sure, atmega's are cheap, but I was actually suggesting it because for some modules +5v wont get them to trigger reliably.
The modules I want to trigger will apparently be fine with 5v. However, it seems like a Nano would just about fit on the stripboard so I might do that for ease of reprogramming etc. In which case I will power the Nano from the 12v rail using the VIN pin, then supply 5v to the five pots in my "design" from either the 5v Nano pin or 5v pad on the stripboard, (don't know if there would be any advantages to either). That way I can buffer the triggers, just in case. Any thoughts?

Am definitely interested to know what others have used the boards for!

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Post by dhaillant » Thu Jun 01, 2017 3:17 am

Hi Devon and pre55ure,
I'm glad you appreciate those boards :banana:
And I'm sorry Devon I did not see your question before. And thanks pre55ure for your help!

I confirm that any electrolytic cap between 1µF and 100µF is fine for +12 and -12 volt rails.
You must pay attention to voltage rating though. Choose 25 V or higher to be sure.
Don't use high capacitance value if you don't need to.
You need high values if your module draws a lot of current (lot of leds, headphone amp, etc), in pulses.
If it's a LFO or a VCF, use lower values.
Switched mode PSUs don't like capacitive loads that much.

Place a lot of 100nF decoupling caps, every where, anytime you use a high freq. IC.

The square cream-coloured caps you can see in the picture are cheap plastic caps (AFAIK, they are NOS). Ceramic caps are fine too.

If you don't need +12 and -12 volt rails, just don't short L1 and L2 jumpers and use the rails for what you want.
Use a continuity tester to check your wiring.

I'd like to see pictures of builds made with the stripboards. I have a couple I should publish.

I'm currently waiting for China Post to deliver (it's damn long this time!) the last batch I ordered. When I receive it, I'll let you know.
:bang:

David

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Post by infovore » Thu Jun 01, 2017 9:25 am

[doh, totally incorrect in what I said]

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Post by Devon Dumpling » Thu Jun 01, 2017 4:26 pm

dhaillant wrote:Hi Devon and pre55ure,
I'm glad you appreciate those boards :banana:
And I'm sorry Devon I did not see your question before. And thanks pre55ure for your help!
Hi David, good to hear from you! I’ve not made much progress yet, mainly due to Arduino programming turning out to not be one of my strengths... So your advice is still useful for me - thanks!
dhaillant wrote:I'd like to see pictures of builds made with the stripboards. I have a couple I should publish.
Yes, definitely please publish your builds - and anyone else too :-)
dhaillant wrote:I'm currently waiting for China Post to deliver (it's damn long this time!) the last batch I ordered. When I receive it, I'll let you know.
:bang:

David
I recommend them - good luck :yay:

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Post by dhaillant » Fri Jun 02, 2017 1:40 am

Leigh did an amazing good job with it:
Image

You can find more information on its blog, with schematics and even Fritzing layout!
http://fishboytech.tumblr.com/tagged/stripboard

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Post by dhaillant » Wed Jun 07, 2017 5:39 am

I'm still waiting the last batch. :bang:

But it seems the package has been lost. While it is still probably somewhere on Earth, there's small chance that I receive it soon.

So, I just reordered a new batch today. :75:

I keep you in touch.

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Post by skee » Mon Jun 12, 2017 2:37 pm

What pots and sockets are suitable for this board? How are they specified when ordering from suppliers?

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Post by dhaillant » Tue Jun 13, 2017 2:58 am

skee wrote:What pots and sockets are suitable for this board? How are they specified when ordering from suppliers?
I think any 9mm pot is fine. 16mm should be ok too.
I use this kind of pots

The jacks are Cliff CR1283 FCR1281 (I have several datasheets with slightly different references, but all are identical)
Smallbearelec has some stock

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Post by dhaillant » Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:08 pm

Image
Good news! Euro Stripboards are back in stock! :bananaguitar:

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Post by dhaillant » Tue Mar 12, 2019 5:23 am

Just a quick update:
Boards are back in stock, and with an updated silkscreen/power interface.

Image

Comments and feedbacks are welcome!

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Post by dhaillant » Mon May 06, 2019 10:25 am


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Post by joem » Mon May 06, 2019 4:25 pm

Oh nice! I'll have to pick some up next time I make an order.

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Post by dhaillant » Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:59 pm

Well well... the Eurorack stripboards are out of stock at Tindie...
But there are plenty of them at Thonk and Synthcube!
8-)

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Post by nrrrd » Sat Sep 14, 2019 2:01 am

These look excellent and a really easy way to build (for example) Arduino based modules.

What I'd really like is for a standard panel to be offered as well. I guess it would be 4hp with mounting holes in the 5 positions for either pots or jacks.

This would make all the steps in building modules super easy!
@dhaillant - have you considered doing this?

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Post by dhaillant » Sat Sep 14, 2019 2:28 am

nrrrd wrote:These look excellent and a really easy way to build (for example) Arduino based modules.

What I'd really like is for a standard panel to be offered as well. I guess it would be 4hp with mounting holes in the 5 positions for either pots or jacks.

This would make all the steps in building modules super easy!
@dhaillant - have you considered doing this?
Hi nrrrd,
I'm glad you like them.

Yes, several times... I'm not sure of the result to have a panel with unpopulated holes.

But why not. I'll give it a try! :hyper:

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Post by nrrrd » Sat Sep 14, 2019 3:13 am

dhaillant wrote: Yes, several times... I'm not sure of the result to have a panel with unpopulated holes.

But why not. I'll give it a try! :hyper:
Coolio! Thanks.

For the unpopulated holes, I would take inspiration from the Serge paperface panels.
I'd print a front panel design on paper, stick it to card, stick it to the front panel and then laminate the lot with "sticky-back plastic", wrapping the laminate around the back of the panel slightly as well.

The unpopulated holes would then be covered by a paper+card+plastic layer.
I think this would create quite a professional looking panel.

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Post by dhaillant » Sat Sep 14, 2019 8:30 am

Here's the template for such generic front panel:

http://www.davidhaillant.com/wp/wp-cont ... 507a-m.pdf

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Post by nrrrd » Sat Sep 14, 2019 12:37 pm

dhaillant wrote:Here's the template for such generic front panel:

http://www.davidhaillant.com/wp/wp-cont ... 507a-m.pdf
Thanks David. Do you have any plans to have these manufactured and sold via Thonk or Tindie?

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Post by dhaillant » Fri Oct 04, 2019 9:19 am

nrrrd wrote: Thanks David. Do you have any plans to have these manufactured and sold via Thonk or Tindie?
Probably through Tindie first. Maybe Thonk if they agree to.

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Post by dhaillant » Fri Oct 04, 2019 9:20 am

Euro Stripboards are back in stock at Thonk!
https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/david-hail ... board-pcb/

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