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David Haillant’s Eurorack Stripboard - questions
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author David Haillant’s Eurorack Stripboard - questions
Devon Dumpling
I bought a couple of these https://www.tindie.com/products/dhaillant/eurorack-stripboard-pcb/ and they look great. I have some questions:

Q1) Can anyone who has used them tell me what components are needed for the 12v rails, there are spaces for caps. I can't find any documentation on David's site.

Q2) One of the projects I have in mind is an Arduino-based clock generator; it won’t need 12v, just 5v. So could I actually omit whatever the answer to Q1 is and connect the 5v pad (that is straight out of the Eurorack power socket) to the 12v rail and make it a 5v rail instead? Then I wouldn’t have to bother with a voltage regulator etc from the 12v rail to the Arduino. My power supply is 4ms Row Power 30 if that’s of any significance.

I’m also interested in knowing what you good people have made with these boards - care to share?
pre55ure
The big caps are usually 10u to 47u exact value isn't super important.
there are also usually smaller caps from + and - rail to ground as well. I use 100n typically.

#2 yes, you can just use the 5v power from the bus (if it has it). I'd still put the caps on there though.

You might want to buffer the output of the arduino though, so in that case you'd need to use the 12v rail for an opamp or transistor.

Those are actually very nice looking boards, and cheaper than most of the other breadboard layout style PCB's I have seen. Will definitely be ordering some of those in the future.
Devon Dumpling
pre55ure wrote:
The big caps are usually 10u to 47u exact value isn't super important.
there are also usually smaller caps from + and - rail to ground as well. I use 100n typically.


Thanks for that. Are the smaller caps you refer to between +/- and gnd rails the square cream-coloured things in this picture https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8719/16988719445_df58b39a8f_b.jpg (from David's site)? I've never seen caps like that.

pre55ure wrote:

You might want to buffer the output of the arduino though, so in that case you'd need to use the 12v rail for an opamp or transistor.


I thought about that, but decided not to - if I'm stupid enough to plug something into my "clock out", then I'm guessing the worst that could happen is the ATMega gets fried and I buy another one for a couple of quid?
pre55ure
Maybe?

Those are film caps, which are usually bigger and more expensive than the small bypass caps I was referring to. Cheap ceramic caps are perfectly fine.

As for the buffering - sure, atmega's are cheap, but I was actually suggesting it because for some modules +5v wont get them to trigger reliably.
Devon Dumpling
pre55ure wrote:
Maybe?

Those are film caps, which are usually bigger and more expensive than the small bypass caps I was referring to. Cheap ceramic caps are perfectly fine.


Thanks again!

pre55ure wrote:
As for the buffering - sure, atmega's are cheap, but I was actually suggesting it because for some modules +5v wont get them to trigger reliably.


Ah, I see! d'oh! Didn't realise that could be an issue. Thanks for the help!
Devon Dumpling
pre55ure wrote:
As for the buffering - sure, atmega's are cheap, but I was actually suggesting it because for some modules +5v wont get them to trigger reliably.


The modules I want to trigger will apparently be fine with 5v. However, it seems like a Nano would just about fit on the stripboard so I might do that for ease of reprogramming etc. In which case I will power the Nano from the 12v rail using the VIN pin, then supply 5v to the five pots in my "design" from either the 5v Nano pin or 5v pad on the stripboard, (don't know if there would be any advantages to either). That way I can buffer the triggers, just in case. Any thoughts?

Am definitely interested to know what others have used the boards for!
dhaillant
Hi Devon and pre55ure,
I'm glad you appreciate those boards It's peanut butter jelly time!
And I'm sorry Devon I did not see your question before. And thanks pre55ure for your help!

I confirm that any electrolytic cap between 1µF and 100µF is fine for +12 and -12 volt rails.
You must pay attention to voltage rating though. Choose 25 V or higher to be sure.
Don't use high capacitance value if you don't need to.
You need high values if your module draws a lot of current (lot of leds, headphone amp, etc), in pulses.
If it's a LFO or a VCF, use lower values.
Switched mode PSUs don't like capacitive loads that much.

Place a lot of 100nF decoupling caps, every where, anytime you use a high freq. IC.

The square cream-coloured caps you can see in the picture are cheap plastic caps (AFAIK, they are NOS). Ceramic caps are fine too.

If you don't need +12 and -12 volt rails, just don't short L1 and L2 jumpers and use the rails for what you want.
Use a continuity tester to check your wiring.

I'd like to see pictures of builds made with the stripboards. I have a couple I should publish.

I'm currently waiting for China Post to deliver (it's damn long this time!) the last batch I ordered. When I receive it, I'll let you know.
very frustrating

David
infovore
[doh, totally incorrect in what I said]
Devon Dumpling
dhaillant wrote:
Hi Devon and pre55ure,
I'm glad you appreciate those boards It's peanut butter jelly time!
And I'm sorry Devon I did not see your question before. And thanks pre55ure for your help!


Hi David, good to hear from you! I’ve not made much progress yet, mainly due to Arduino programming turning out to not be one of my strengths... So your advice is still useful for me - thanks!

dhaillant wrote:
I'd like to see pictures of builds made with the stripboards. I have a couple I should publish.


Yes, definitely please publish your builds - and anyone else too :-)

dhaillant wrote:
I'm currently waiting for China Post to deliver (it's damn long this time!) the last batch I ordered. When I receive it, I'll let you know.
very frustrating

David

I recommend them - good luck applause
dhaillant
Leigh did an amazing good job with it:


You can find more information on its blog, with schematics and even Fritzing layout!
http://fishboytech.tumblr.com/tagged/stripboard
dhaillant
I'm still waiting the last batch. very frustrating

But it seems the package has been lost. While it is still probably somewhere on Earth, there's small chance that I receive it soon.

So, I just reordered a new batch today.

I keep you in touch.
skee
What pots and sockets are suitable for this board? How are they specified when ordering from suppliers?
dhaillant
skee wrote:
What pots and sockets are suitable for this board? How are they specified when ordering from suppliers?


I think any 9mm pot is fine. 16mm should be ok too.
I use this kind of pots

The jacks are Cliff CR1283 FCR1281 (I have several datasheets with slightly different references, but all are identical)
Smallbearelec has some stock
dhaillant

Good news! Euro Stripboards are back in stock! Rockin' Banana!
dhaillant
Just a quick update:
Boards are back in stock, and with an updated silkscreen/power interface.



Comments and feedbacks are welcome!
dhaillant
And now, Eurorack Stripboards are also available on Synthcube!
w00t
joem
dhaillant wrote:
And now, Eurorack Stripboards are also available on Synthcube!
w00t


Oh nice! I'll have to pick some up next time I make an order.
dhaillant
Well well... the Eurorack stripboards are out of stock at Tindie...
But there are plenty of them at Thonk and Synthcube!
cool
nrrrd
These look excellent and a really easy way to build (for example) Arduino based modules.

What I'd really like is for a standard panel to be offered as well. I guess it would be 4hp with mounting holes in the 5 positions for either pots or jacks.

This would make all the steps in building modules super easy!
@dhaillant - have you considered doing this?
dhaillant
nrrrd wrote:
These look excellent and a really easy way to build (for example) Arduino based modules.

What I'd really like is for a standard panel to be offered as well. I guess it would be 4hp with mounting holes in the 5 positions for either pots or jacks.

This would make all the steps in building modules super easy!
@dhaillant - have you considered doing this?


Hi nrrrd,
I'm glad you like them.

Yes, several times... I'm not sure of the result to have a panel with unpopulated holes.

But why not. I'll give it a try! hyper
nrrrd
dhaillant wrote:

Yes, several times... I'm not sure of the result to have a panel with unpopulated holes.

But why not. I'll give it a try! hyper


Coolio! Thanks.

For the unpopulated holes, I would take inspiration from the Serge paperface panels.
I'd print a front panel design on paper, stick it to card, stick it to the front panel and then laminate the lot with "sticky-back plastic", wrapping the laminate around the back of the panel slightly as well.

The unpopulated holes would then be covered by a paper+card+plastic layer.
I think this would create quite a professional looking panel.
dhaillant
Here's the template for such generic front panel:

http://www.davidhaillant.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/BLANK-4hp-20170507a -m.pdf
nrrrd
dhaillant wrote:
Here's the template for such generic front panel:

http://www.davidhaillant.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/BLANK-4hp-20170507a -m.pdf


Thanks David. Do you have any plans to have these manufactured and sold via Thonk or Tindie?
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