MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit
cbeefheartuk
Just wondered if any of you Synth DIY gods are making one of these?
I think it is the most interesting sounding synth I have heard for quite a while and the price seems good..
Just PCBS and a few rare IC's in kit.
A big thread in General section on the prebuilt version but I haven't seen anything here.
I just bought a kit so am pretty excited - hope I don't fuck it up. Need to find a decent enclosure for it.

This is info:
For all willing to assemble their own LYRA, we have made 50 DIY kits for LYRA-8 and 25 kits for LYRA-4.
Price:
LYRA-8 - 100$ (92 euros)
LYRA-4 - 80$ (74 euros)
Plus delivery 26-33 euros and 3 - 11 euros of money transfer commissions (depending on the selected money transfer system).
The kits available without a queue.
To get a DIY KIT send your request to omhohom@gmail.com
Please write in the title “LYRA-8 DIY” or “LYRA-4 DIY” depending on which kit you want to buy. Also, please mention in the letter the country where you want the kit to be delivered.

DIY kits are aimed at experienced radio enthusiasts and require making the body and front panel of the synthesizer according to your abilities and taste.
Starspawn
Yep, no synth god, but I was on waitlist, have ordered and am currently following the tracking smile Think there is one of the bigger common pedal type boxes that will fit, Ill post here when Ive done the measurements etc.

The Retail for built ones are more than fair as well, but theres quite a long waiting list already I think.
cbeefheartuk
That would be great if you had info on a decent case.
I like the big sloped Hammond cases that are beige with blue sides but it is a powder coat finish and when I made a pedal using one I couldn't get waterslide decals to work at all..
That might be a tough point for me getting any graphics looking OK - quite a lot of knobs to not have any labels!
mangros
Quote:
I like the big sloped Hammond cases that are beige with blue sides but it is a powder coat finish and when I made a pedal using one I couldn't get waterslide decals to work at all..


If you use a product like 'Micro Sol' or 'Micro Set' then you can get waterslide decals to soften up and hug the surface texture a lot better.

The softer the decal goes, the more likely it is to warp on the surface, but it does work. Here's a Hammond case I did (after few coats of Plastikote clear)

cbeefheartuk
That looks really good - yes will have to try Micro Sol or something then next time. I put the decal on as one big piece - it did sort of work but I had that 'silvering' effect in places where it had lifted a little bit.
Starspawn
Dimensions are roughly 28x28cm
Starspawn
So 12x12 for the inching ones should work fine, and so will this:
http://no.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1444-12123/?q s=KZicGfxjZ20GrHSfDly55g%3D%3D
cbeefheartuk
Nice one - they look good.
I don't even have tracking for mine yet and am probably a couple of weeks away from getting going with it but will try to post a shopping cart for parts at some point unless somebody beats me to it (please do!..)
insula
love
lasesentaysiete
I ended up splitting my order between a few different suppliers: Mostly Tayda, some Mouser, some R-S, some local. Total cost without case is ~100€

For the enclosure, I will most likely go with Bud Industries AC-1424. 12"x12"x3".

The thumb screws: http://www.automotioncomponents.co.uk/en/catalog/mechanical/thumb-scre ws/flat-knurled-thumb-screws--steel/p0405.zp
Jcsveth
Boards arrived from the pre-order today in the US. Looks straight-forward - going to start collecting parts next week and do not anticipate any problems. Tayda and Mouser for me. I am very interested how others are laying out their faceplate, triggers, and text. Please share for inspiration.
ikkini
I also ordered a Lyra-8 kit.
I didn't want to buy another synth, but this one sounds so unique, I couldn't resist.
phisynth
same here, kit just paid w00t
Addam
Well goddamn... I was just telling myself not to commit to any more projects bigger than a 4hp passive attenuator so... I ordered the Lyra-4. Anyone else here building a 4? If I should butt out and start a new thread do let me know.

I took a glance at the BOM and it seems fairly straightforward but there are couple things I was scratching my head a little on.. if anyone does end up posting a mouser cart or similar (even partial, for the Lyra-8), that'd be great. Even for instance... anyone have recommendations on a stable 12V power supply for US plug?

lasesentaysiete
Those Bud boxes look nice, good call.

Any brave individuals thinking of adding additional CV ins or even switches to vary between "tweakable" caps for the distortion and delay LPFs (possibly not worth it)?
Jcsveth
If anyone finds a US supplier for those knurled thumb-screws please post. I do not think I'll end up with them but want to build it to 'stock' and then play around when casing it.
Oscilloclast
So, I got my boards and I have a few questions.

1, Are we going to post our building questions on this forum or are people contacting Vlad directly? (would be better to post theme here and have Vlad answer them so that everyone can see the answers).

2. Is there a drill template? I've seen the design for the front panel but can that be scaled correctly for a drill template?

3. Is the PCB with the pots/switches meant to be mounted directly against (in contact with) the aluminum enclosure? The pictures certainly look like that is the way its constructed. I noticed that the side of the PCB that mounts against the enclosure has bare pads (which would make contact with the enclosure) which would mean it would need to be isolated somehow.

4. There is a resistor listed as "3 mom", I'm assuming this means "3 Megohm"?

Thanks,
David
jsu
Jcsveth wrote:
If anyone finds a US supplier for those knurled thumb-screws please post. I do not think I'll end up with them but want to build it to 'stock' and then play around when casing it.


I asked Vlad about the thumb screws and the part we'll need to source is DIN653, but other kinds of screws will also work
nigel_mck
Any news on Lyra-8 PCB availability?
mbroers
yeah sign me up for the 8 diy kit when it becomes available again sheesh, sounds awesome!
Starspawn
You have to send Vlad emails.
Lyra 8 kits are sold out, but some Lyra 4 left.
Dont know when next run.
ikkini
Hi,

Since no Mouser cart was shared, I'll try to make one this week. I'll share it here if anybody wants to make a double check before I order it.
Oscilloclast
I'll be getting most of my stuff from mouser, so if you want to share your cart that would be great. One thing I was confused about was the "3 mom" resistor, which I'm assuming means "3 Megohm"? Is that what you think?
cbeefheartuk
If you do post a cart that would be brilliant. I have been really busy so not even looked at anything yet but would double check a cart.
Addam
Oscilloclast wrote:
One thing I was confused about was the "3 mom" resistor, which I'm assuming means "3 Megohm"? Is that what you think?


I just took a look at the build doc for the L4 and it's gotta be 3 Meg. That one appears at the top and values descend from there. The resistors that have no K or M multiplier designation at the bottom are also listed as "300 om" for example.

I'm curious to see if anyone has any creative solutions for that cabling. Maybe molex connectors?
lasesentaysiete
does anyone else find the control board design an odd choice? I mean that instead of having the pcb-mountable components mount to the pcb via regular footprints, we get this sort of smd type style with THT components. Anyone know why this is?

I actually don't mind it, btw. But it seems an unnecessary amount of work. seriously, i just don't get it
lasesentaysiete
Addam wrote:


I'm curious to see if anyone has any creative solutions for that cabling.

I'm using something like this:
http://www.dx.com/p/30cm-breadboard-wires-for-electronic-diy-40-cable- pack-80207#.WTcTsLzyjaY

Male pin headers on the main board with the above cables connected to them. The control board doesn't seem to offer much choice. The hole-less pads I mentioned in my previous post necessitate that you solder bare wire directly to them, I think. So with the wires I linked to, I've cut the female headers off of one end in order the expose the bare wire.
Starspawn
lasesentaysiete wrote:
does anyone else find the control board design an odd choice? I mean that instead of having the pcb-mountable components mount to the pcb via regular footprints, we get this sort of smd type style with THT components. Anyone know why this is?

I actually don't mind it, btw. But it seems an unnecessary amount of work. seriously, i just don't get it


For sourcing parts I much prefer it to other designs simply because it will take most any pots. Sure theres a little wiring, but the wiring is to close places on the pcb and not hanging, so for me this is the best of two worlds.
Expensive uncommon panel parts piss me off.
Addam
lasesentaysiete wrote:
Addam wrote:

I'm curious to see if anyone has any creative solutions for that cabling.

I'm using something like this:
http://www.dx.com/p/30cm-breadboard-wires-for-electronic-diy-40-cable- pack-80207#.WTcTsLzyjaY

Male pin headers on the main board with the above cables connected to them. The control board doesn't seem to offer much choice. The hole-less pads I mentioned in my previous post necessitate that you solder bare wire directly to them, I think. So with the wires I linked to, I've cut the female headers off of one end in order the expose the bare wire.


That's funny I was just browsing Thonk and saw they have some ribbon cables exactly like that (and put them in my cart) - do you find the connections are secure enough? Cutting and crimping all those wires for molex would not be the most fun way to spend an evening.. especially just to solder the other end anyway.

I just took a closer look at the build photos... it does seem an odd choice to have all those wire connections surface mount soldered. I guess it's so they can keep the faceplate clean by not having to use screws and spacers (or a specific pcb mount type of pot as Starspawn suggested)? I wonder if that's how the "factory" ones are put together, as well.
lasesentaysiete
Addam wrote:
do you find the connections are secure enough?

I bought this set from Tayda, and they're fine. I have used some in the past that were a little loose, though. Its a good idea not to go connecting and disconnecting a bunch of times, just in case they loosen.
phisynth
Started building it w00t

regarding the resistors, I noticed the following so far :
- I found 11X 100 ohm instead of 10 in the BOM (in red below)
- I only found 9X 39K instead of 11 in the BOM (in green below)
- I couldn't find the 62k resistor (1 in the BOM) despite looking for 10 min at the board



Also, as I never worked with a component PCB before, I am wondering if it is risky to start soldering the components on it before having the definitive panel ? (risk of misalignment)

Anyone have experience with this ?
Starspawn
I confirm all this.
soldering on the main pcb shouldnt matter for alignment unless its really tall caps, id wait with the panel pcb until youve got a box, but with a little give in the wires from pots and switches you should be able to have what little give the holes let you for alignment.
phisynth
Thanks

went away and started soldering the knob on the components PCB, I guess as long the panel has the same hole tolerance as the PCB it shouldn't matter if there's some slight misalignment...

Another thing I am wondering is how to avoid any contact between the DIN653 screws and the panel itself seriously, i just don't get it
Addam
phisynth wrote:
Another thing I am wondering is how to avoid any contact between the DIN653 screws and the panel itself seriously, i just don't get it


The DIN653s are M3 threads right? Can I ask where you sourced these if you did? I suppose you could use small M3 nylon spacers (making the panel wholes large enough to accommodate, of course). This would give you some vertical clearance, as well. L4 BOM lists "Insulation sleeve M3 outer diametr 4 mm" which I guess is to serve that purpose. Admittedly, I don't have my boards yet so I'm having a little trouble envisioning this, especially with that PCB flush against the panel.
pirx
Hi, another Lyra-8 builder here. I have got my thumb screws from here:

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/knurled-thumb-screws-din-653/400831-SKTT-M3- 12-A1

(shipping to the US is ~ $12).

For the insulating washers I am planning to use:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91145a129/=182mvmy

ID 2.92mm, OD 3.68mm - not ideal, but it should work.
Addam
pirx

Thanks for the info.. black ones look sharp.. I assume they have the same resistive properties, basically? Minimum order of 25 for black is a bit unjustifiable, though

Looks like these mofos have them, too, though stainless steel very expensive.. plus a $9 processing fee (no shipping)
http://estore.jwwinco.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=653 -M3-16-NI

where the black ones are very cheap
http://estore.jwwinco.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=3N1 6F48

These are listed as "steel, black oxide finish" which I'm guessing is not good for this application
pirx
Yeah, the black oxide finish is non-conductive, so probably not good for this application. I ordered the stainless steel ones. Brass knobs should be fine, too.
phisynth
Thanks for the info.

On my side, I so far didn't really made a deep search for the screws, but I keep seeing really stupid prices for these like this :

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/knurled-thumb-screws-din-653/400831-SKTT-M3- 12-A1?google_shopping=1&c=8&mkwid=c_dc&pcrid=200246448451&kword=&match =&plid=www.synthforum.nl&gclid=CMHY0JqCw9QCFcwy0wodTTQBiA

$26.49 each, but if you buy 100 you can get these as low as $2100 for the lot
hihi very frustrating d'oh!
lasesentaysiete
I picked these up from amazon. 9.7€ for 30. Not sure if they'll work, but I'll try!

Addam
phisynth wrote:

$26.49 each, but if you buy 100 you can get these as low as $2100 for the lot
hihi very frustrating d'oh!


Sorry, I'm gonna have to pass on that group buy. lol

Anyone know if these will accommodate M3 screws? hihi


lasesentaysiete
If they don't work you can always use them to VERY easily attach and detach PCB sandwiches that use spacers!
pirx
phisynth I think that price is excessive! Wow! I purchased these screws just a few days ago:

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/knurled-thumb-screws-din-653/400831-SKTT-M3- 12-A1

and the price was $1.49 / piece. Perhaps this is an error on their website?

I also investigated McMaster / Carr inventory, but they only seem to sell 12mm diameter screws in black-oxide finish:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#92552a414/=183iz5l
pirx
FWIW, I checked this morning and the prices on Accu website appear to be sane again (~ $1.50 - $2.00).

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/940-knurled-thumb-screws-din-653#elasticsear ch_id_feature_538843=538843_701&id_elasticsearch_category=940&orderby= ranking&orderway=asc&p=1

I finished my front panel! I am using nylon washers (0.031" thick) to get clearance between the front panel and the control board, and right-angle pin headers for making connections to main and I/O boards.


phisynth
Thanks for the head up about the screws

And nice !

what case are you going to use ?
phisynth
Great idea to use right angled pin headers, didn't thought about that...

a couple thing I'd like to ask you, if you don't mind :

- how thick is your panel ? I realise it might be too much if more than 2 mm considering the shortness of the pots thread

- did you put something between the PCB and the panel as well, or are they lying directly against each other ?

- How did you mount the switches ? Did you keep a hex nut and the locking ring between the switch and the PCB ? I am considering doing so to avoid the bushing emerging too much above the panel, but here also it depends if something is required between the panel ad the PCB to avoid any risk of contact...

- what length did you choose for the DIN653 screws ? I was thinking ordering the 12mm ones, but I guess it doesn't matter much
pirx
Thanks, phisynth!

I am planning to mount this panel into my modular panel "format" that is 32" x 16" steel pegboard, so no real dedicated enclosure here.

My panel is 2.5 mm thick aluminum (FPE, anodized with printed graphic). I am using nylon washers (0.031" thick) between the panel and the control board, and also standard potentiometer washer on top of the panel, and there is enough bushing going through for the nut (standard Alpha 16 mm pot, the threaded bushing is 6.35 mm long). The washers prevent vias in the control board PCB from touching the front panel.

For the switches I am using dress nuts on the top, so they look OK even though the bushing extents a bit over the panel. Using a hex nut below sounds like a good idea.

It is a good question about the contact between the controls and the front panel. I put the nylon washers that are insulating (and the front panel is anodized, so it is supposed to be non-conductive), but the potentiometers and switches extend though the drilled holes, so there is electrical contact between the front panel and the controls anyway. I am assuming it is OK, but perhaps better ask Vlad?

I ordered the 12 mm ones, I think anything over 6 or 8 mm should work, just make sure the standoffs are long enough so there is clearance between the screw and the main board above.
phisynth
Oh yeah, I remember your fantastic modular now w00t
-> hence the red color I guess...

thanks for the explanations, very useful thumbs up

and btw, you were right for the screw price on Accu website, but I checked again tonight and they're back to $26.49 each very frustrating ...should have ordered this morning. I don't understand what's going on, probably a bug...

I found stainless steel thumb screws on mcmaster, but there quite expensive ($2.84/ea for M3/11 mm)
Jcsveth
Knurled Screws - Received these - checked continuity - all good.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-M3-10-DIN653-knurling-flat-head- knurled-thumb-screw-hand-tighten-screws-hw107/32692161145.html

I ordered a set of M3 and a set of M4 and both fit the PCB. M4 has a larger top and so rest closer together which could be good. Ordered 20 of each and the complete order of 40 screws including shipping came to $12.14.
Addam
Jcsveth wrote:
Knurled Screws - Received these - checked continuity - all good.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-M3-10-DIN653-knurling-flat-head- knurled-thumb-screw-hand-tighten-screws-hw107/32692161145.html

I ordered a set of M3 and a set of M4 and both fit the PCB. M4 has a larger top and so rest closer together which could be good. Ordered 20 of each and the complete order of 40 screws including shipping came to $12.14.


Heck yeah, this looks like a winner. I'm probably gonna go with M4 as you mentioned but might just order both, also. Probably stock up on some cheap nylon screws and spacers, too. Great resource!!

pirx, looking very nice. The red gives it an extra "organismic" feel twisted
hybernaut
Beautiful work, pirx! I've just ordered a pair of LYRA-4 kits, and this is great inspiration.

pirx wrote:


hybernaut
I'm ordering parts for a pair of LYRA-4, and can't find the TDA2822 DIP-8 output amplifier. Does anyone have suggestions for a suitable replacement?

I found this NJM2073D and given the low cost and socketed package, figured I would give it a shot.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NJR/NJM2073D
lasesentaysiete
got my TDA2822 from Tayda
hybernaut
Oh, I didn't think to look there...while ordering a box of pots and knobs!
Thanks for the tip.

lasesentaysiete wrote:
got my TDA2822 from Tayda
Addam
Anyone do a mouser cart (even a partial) for this guy? Most is pretty straightforward and available from Tayda, etc. (not including conductive screw hardware, of course) but a couple of these caps I could use a little help on.

BOM: "Cer 510pf-50v" - I don't see any 510 pF ceramic caps on mouser. help

Those bigger ceramics such as "Cer 4.7mf-50v" - looks like THIS is a good fit?

"non polar 10 mf - 25 v" - I'm unfamiliar with non-polarized electros. THESE dudes?
I'm thinking pic on mouser which shows polarity should not be trusted?

Big ass electrolytics such as "EL 2200mf-25v" Closest thing I could find was THIS
All the similar caps I see rated for 25V are over twice the size of the 13x20mm spec'ed in the BOM. This thing's going to need it's own case.
seriously, i just don't get it
ikkini
Sorry, I didn't ordered from Mouser finally. I mainly ordered from Tayda what was available. And then I'll look for the missing parts, including these caps your talking about.
lasesentaysiete
Addam
510pf: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=80-C322C511JDG

4.7uf: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=810-FG14X5R1H475KRT0

10uf non-polar: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=667-ECE-A1VN100U

2200uf: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=647-UVZ1E222MHD

I used all these components and my build works 100%
Addam
Cheers for these, guys. lasesentaysiete, excellent, I'm adding your suggestions to my spreadsheet now. They also look to be cheaper than things I was finding. Just when I think I'm getting decent at navigating mouser's page I start getting stumped. hmmm.....
phisynth
I have some trouble finding a ø 8 mm 470 uF electro cap as listed in the BOM, and the 2200 uF one I got from Tayda is too big (ø 16 mm / length 26 mm), so both together, they don't fit

Apparently all the 470 uF caps on mouser are also ø10 mm

Can you confirm it works with the 2200 uF you mention above with a ø10 mm 470 uF on its side ?

Thanks
lasesentaysiete
phisynth
I didn't bend the 2200uf cap on its side. It stands straight up.
phisynth
Ah, OK, thanks mine won't fit correctly if straight because lead spacing is 7.5 mm... will order some from mouser...

other than that, here's my progress... this component PCB is a TON of work
woah

I think a finished unit is a real bargain a that price...



phisynth
pirx : may I ask the reference of the knobs you used for tune ? They look great.
pirx
phisynth: I have got them from Allied Electronics:

http://www.alliedelec.com/te-connectivity-pkd70b101-4/70156301/

I actually like better the knobs in original Lyra-8 design because they have an index dot on top, but I had these lying around for few years, so I used them.

I have got these 2200 uF caps, they are 12.5mm in diameter, but a bit high (35mm):

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/eeu-fr1v222l/panasonic

I think my 470 uF caps are also 10mm, but I need to double check.

The build is quite involved, indeed!

Thanks for your earlier comments, by the way. Your fabulous videos are one of the reasons I've got into modular (and into banana synths, in particular).
phisynth
Thanks man, means a lot to me thumbs up
phisynth
Currently designing the panel, one thing I noticed : on the pics of the actual unit, the screws supposed to attach the main PCB through the components PCB to the panel doesn't show :



in fact, the top right one would fall right into the "LYRA - 8 ORGANISMIC SYNTHESIZER" text.

Anybody know how the PCB is attached to the panel in the production units ?
lasesentaysiete
phisynth
the production cases have the standoffs welded to the interior, I'd say. A lot of metal cases are made this way. Have a look at the photos in the documents package.

And yes, some of the writing is covered by the screws.
phisynth
Thanks !

Here's my panel design (largely inspired by the original design). Tried different fonts, but I think this modcan A font suits the panel quite well. Banana IN / OUT on top. I think I'll go for the black one


phisynth
Almost done with my build w00t

So far, it’s working 90%, the voices triggering, the delays, the LFO

but I have a problem with the distortion section, maybe you can help me troubleshooting it :

I noticed I only have 0.02v on the control marked 5.87v pad near header 8. If I disconnect the DRV1 cable from this header, the voltage goes up to 11.23v on the pad.

Also, when I turn the mix knob fully CW on the distortion section, the synth becomes silent. Before that, it also sound a bit strange, more like bit reduction it seems

I also noticed the led on this section stays brightly lid, without any perceptible change. Is it supposed to be so ?

Can you think of something I should check ?

Thanks in advance for your help !
ikkini
lasesentaysiete wrote:

10uf non-polar: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=667-ECE-A1VN100U


Sorry for the stupid question, but these caps are bipolar, so is there a proper way to solder them or can they go both sides ?
lasesentaysiete
ikkini
either way is fine. Just like resitsors or non-polarized caps.
ikkini
Thank you for the reply ! smile

I have a last question, since I'm French, I can't find the proper word on Mouser to find female headers for my ribbon cables to connect it to the pin headers. Could you help me ?
lasesentaysiete
je sais pas non plus comment on dit ça en français, mais tu pourrais checker Mouser en anglais, en cherchant "pin header".
ikkini
En français ! Merci ! SlayerBadger!

Well, with this single word I get 52 917 Matches ! woah

I've tried some keywords, but I can't find a proper way to connect the ribbon cables between boards...
lasesentaysiete
I bought mine from Tayda confused

this should be a little more precise: http://www.mouser.es/Connectors/Headers-Wire-Housings/_/N-ay0lo?P=1z0x bxoZ1ytkls2Z1z0spqhZ1z0wxp6Z1yzv7x1Z1z0z5h6&Keyword=female+pin+header& FS=True

can't remember how many positions are needed, though.
ikkini
Thanks ! smile
thresholdpeople
phisynth wrote:
Thanks !

Here's my panel design (largely inspired by the original design). Tried different fonts, but I think this modcan A font suits the panel quite well. Banana IN / OUT on top. I think I'll go for the black one




Cool! Don't forget a ground jack for those bananas!

Is the audio output line level?

I'm on the waiting list for the synth - does the DIY kit include a vector layout of the front panel? Building one may be more fun, but I don't have time for doing a front panel layout at the moment.
phisynth
In fact in the meantime I realised some jack have normalisations (hold gate, CV delay & CV voices), so I think I'll forget about the banana outputs in the final layout because it would mess with the signals and use jack <-> banana adaptors instead

I'm happy to share my panel design if you're interested (made with Inkscape)
thresholdpeople
Oh yeah, thanks! If I end up building one, I'd like to do it with bananas too. I have these really small toggle switches that work pretty good for normalisations.

Does Vlad send schematics with the kit? Wonder if any mods are possible? This is where I always get myself in trouble though and the project sprawls...
phisynth
No schematic provided. And he does provide a low-res image of the panel design only

Oh and btw, mine is working 100% now, thanks to Vlad, I found the trouble came from a small steel washer I placed on the top right hole, on top of a standoff used to hold the PCB together. It was creating a short on the DRV circuit trough the vias around the hole. Attention to details, as always, is crucial w00t w00t
hybernaut
phisynth wrote:

Oh and btw, mine is working 100% now, thanks to Vlad


Congrats! Any luck contacting whales yet? thumbs up

I'm still searching for reasonably priced DIN 653 thumb screws or replacements, and worrying about my jumper wires, but I hope to have first audio from my LYRA-4 today.
Addam
Sorry guys... another cap question. Anyone using cheap (Tayda) ceramics for the common values like .1uF or are people opting for C0G, box film or pricier multilayers from Mouser for all the ceramics?
lasesentaysiete
Addam
I went with the monolithic ceramics from Tayda for most part. eg:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-1uf-50v-multilayer-ceramic-capacitor .html
Addam
Thanks again, lasesentaysiete, I already ordered ceramic discs from tayda but haven't placed a mouser order yet.. will probably upgrade to multilayers
nourson
Hello !
Another Lyra 8 builder here, from Belgium.
I'm about finishing the soldering and start wondering about my panel.
It's my first DIY synth project. First step to a little modular.
I plan to realize my panel with an oxydized copper plate.
Is it realistic given that conductivity of the copper ?
sixty_n
Hi Nourson and welcome to muffs.

The commercially built Lyras have a metal front plate and there are insulating spacers in the BOM for around the thumbscrew touch contacts so as long as you are careful it should be fine. Also you'll be able to check for unwanted shorts with the continuity beep mode on your multimeter before you power it up.
Addam
nourson
As sixty_n mentioned, make sure you isolate those touch contacts from your panel. The metal housing on your pots, switches, etc contacting your copper plate is no problem. You want to avoid any components (physically large capacitors for instance) from touching the panel, of course.

Please post pictures of the panel when you have made it. Love that idea!
nourson
Thanks guys !
I'm quite slow but i'll post some pictures when done ;-)
njh
New to the forum as a non-lurker - hello.

Am considering diving into a Lyra-8 kit but concerned about how tricky it might be. Have built one DIY synth before - a Mutable Shruthi - but that's it. And I have not much technical electronics knowledge beyond basics. Though I do have Google and this thread...

For those who have built a few things: how difficult was it to pull parts together and build compared with other kits?

Don't mind spending time on it but would rather not mess it up and regret it.

Cheers,

N
flab
i am about to buy a kit for those, 2 questions

how much the bom costs more or less

and

i have a huge eurorack, will i actually use this one(philosophy)?
Addam
njh
Welcome! I'd say this is not an easy build (though I haven't even started mine yet). There are some oddball parts, some basic wiring required, and you'll have to put your own case/panel together. The build documentation is also pretty bare bones. That said, people here are helpful, as you can see, and if you take your time and enjoy building/soldering this one seems like one of the more special projects out there. My best advice is to take a look at the documentation and build photos and see what you think.
pirx
The build is straightforward, but it is a bit tedious, mostly because there are many parts and the parts are quite diverse. There are no trimmers, so the setup should be very easy. I made two mistakes in my build: used wrong type of toggle switches, and didn't normalize CV connectors (I am using bananas instead of default 1/4" jacks). But it works now. I just posted a video in General Gear section Lyra-8 thread.
dettifoss
hybernaut wrote:
Oh, I didn't think to look there...while ordering a box of pots and knobs!
Thanks for the tip.

lasesentaysiete wrote:
got my TDA2822 from Tayda


I can't for the life of me find these on Tayda. Do you have a link for them?
pirx
I've got them from eBay (I think this seller is actually eBay outlet of Tayda):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231564329649

I see them listed on Tayda website as well:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/tda2822-audio-amplifier-1-channel-mono -headphones-2-channel-class-ab-1wx1at32-ohm-1-8v-15v-pdip-8.html
dettifoss
pirx wrote:
I've got them from eBay (I think this seller is actually eBay outlet of Tayda):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231564329649

I see them listed on Tayda website as well:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/tda2822-audio-amplifier-1-channel-mono -headphones-2-channel-class-ab-1wx1at32-ohm-1-8v-15v-pdip-8.html


Thanks so much. I don't know how I missed it, but I did.
cjnuk3
Hi all, I'm in the process of building my Lyra-8 kit, so far so good but does anyone know what are you supposed to use for what looks like a resistor outline but with 4 dashes where the value would normally be? There are 8 of them, one in each of the oscillator sections, and they appear to be in parallel with the 10V zener diodes (the ones that are perpendicular to the edge connectors).

Thanks in advance!
sduck
It's in the Assembly Instructions:

pirx
Just a quick note - I didn't have to install these (no sound leak), but the outcome probably varies from build to build.
cjnuk3
sduck wrote:
It's in the Assembly Instructions:



Oh dear, now I feel incredibly stupid!! Thanks for helping me out anyway. One of these days I really will RTFM.....
MorayM
Hi everyone, I'm working on my Lyra 8 at the moment - very slowly, I'm very busy on other stuff at the moment! Thanks for all your advice on the build, and for the links to the weird caps. What are you guys using for the 160V CCCP cap? My big box of weird bits has failed me... hmmm.....
nourson
I bought this, but my Lyra is not working yet, so can't tell you if they're good or no, but look sexy :
http://www.befr.ebay.be/itm/1-x-0-1uF-160V-MBM-RUSSIAN-TONE-PAPER-CAP- GUITAR-BASS-/141735514638?hash=item210018520e:g:CYIAAOSwDNdVv47~
nourson
Hello !
I'm still working on my panel. I didn't find a copper plate thick enough. So I'll build mine from 2 plates. One of a 2mm plexiglass, and than epoxy a 0,7mm copper plate on top.
I'm wondering about this :
On the main pcb, one of the pcb spacers hole has a conductive ring. I guess the screw of this spacer has to be in contact with the copper part of my panel. Right ? Mayde should I solder it ? For the others screws it's not important ?

I'm talking about this ring :


The screw on the other side (plexi) :


The future copper front :

[/img]
cjnuk3
I've finished mine and it's mostly working ok (though it's rather hard to tell given all the interaction between the controls!)

I just have 2 issues and I wonder if anyone else has them too? All the oscillators faintly breakthrough when the drive and volume are set high though it's barely noticeable at normal listening levels. It's nothing to do with touch pad sensitivity as it occurs even when all the touch pads are disconnected. I have made sure the PCB is as clean as possible and there are no deposits which might be causing this. It's as if the VCA's (if it has such things) aren't quite closing.

Also I have a slight but noticeable permanent vibrato on voice 2 only, no matter how the controls are set. I have no idea which part of the circuit governs this so if anyone does I'd love to know, thanks!
nourson
Starts becoming a Lyra 8 (still don't know if it's working, didn't recieved the 4016 yet)
moonagedaydream
That looks awesome! hopefully a restock of the PCB's will come soon...
shiftr
I hope there will be kits again. Anybody know something about it?
nourson
Hello, I'm still waiting for the 4016 IC. No news.
Could I replace it by something like this ?
http://www.newark.com/texas-instruments/sn74hc4066n/analog-switch-quad -spst-dip-14/dp/76C3574?ost=SN74HC4066N&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3 Aen-US%2FElement14_US%2Fsearch
nourson
Quick reply from Vlad : YES
nourson
Hi everyone !
All of the parts are in the PCB. But no sound. I have very low voltage, 0,8V. The problem comes from the main board (when the main board is disconected, there's 12V). As we don't have schematics, I've checked the voltage on every point of the main board. And there's nothing uper 0,8V.
Any idea ?

29/12 Edit :
I removed all IC's. The voltage came back to normal. So I put them back. And voltage is good. But two of my TL074 are very hot.
And still no sound. I have only some noise moving back and forwards, at a low volume.
Don't know where to seek...
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Page 1 of 5
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group