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Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit
cbeefheartuk
Just wondered if any of you Synth DIY gods are making one of these?
I think it is the most interesting sounding synth I have heard for quite a while and the price seems good..
Just PCBS and a few rare IC's in kit.
A big thread in General section on the prebuilt version but I haven't seen anything here.
I just bought a kit so am pretty excited - hope I don't fuck it up. Need to find a decent enclosure for it.

This is info:
For all willing to assemble their own LYRA, we have made 50 DIY kits for LYRA-8 and 25 kits for LYRA-4.
Price:
LYRA-8 - 100$ (92 euros)
LYRA-4 - 80$ (74 euros)
Plus delivery 26-33 euros and 3 - 11 euros of money transfer commissions (depending on the selected money transfer system).
The kits available without a queue.
To get a DIY KIT send your request to omhohom@gmail.com
Please write in the title “LYRA-8 DIY” or “LYRA-4 DIY” depending on which kit you want to buy. Also, please mention in the letter the country where you want the kit to be delivered.

DIY kits are aimed at experienced radio enthusiasts and require making the body and front panel of the synthesizer according to your abilities and taste.
Starspawn
Yep, no synth god, but I was on waitlist, have ordered and am currently following the tracking smile Think there is one of the bigger common pedal type boxes that will fit, Ill post here when Ive done the measurements etc.

The Retail for built ones are more than fair as well, but theres quite a long waiting list already I think.
cbeefheartuk
That would be great if you had info on a decent case.
I like the big sloped Hammond cases that are beige with blue sides but it is a powder coat finish and when I made a pedal using one I couldn't get waterslide decals to work at all..
That might be a tough point for me getting any graphics looking OK - quite a lot of knobs to not have any labels!
mangros
Quote:
I like the big sloped Hammond cases that are beige with blue sides but it is a powder coat finish and when I made a pedal using one I couldn't get waterslide decals to work at all..


If you use a product like 'Micro Sol' or 'Micro Set' then you can get waterslide decals to soften up and hug the surface texture a lot better.

The softer the decal goes, the more likely it is to warp on the surface, but it does work. Here's a Hammond case I did (after few coats of Plastikote clear)

cbeefheartuk
That looks really good - yes will have to try Micro Sol or something then next time. I put the decal on as one big piece - it did sort of work but I had that 'silvering' effect in places where it had lifted a little bit.
Starspawn
Dimensions are roughly 28x28cm
Starspawn
So 12x12 for the inching ones should work fine, and so will this:
http://no.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1444-12123/?q s=KZicGfxjZ20GrHSfDly55g%3D%3D
cbeefheartuk
Nice one - they look good.
I don't even have tracking for mine yet and am probably a couple of weeks away from getting going with it but will try to post a shopping cart for parts at some point unless somebody beats me to it (please do!..)
insula
love
lasesentaysiete
I ended up splitting my order between a few different suppliers: Mostly Tayda, some Mouser, some R-S, some local. Total cost without case is ~100€

For the enclosure, I will most likely go with Bud Industries AC-1424. 12"x12"x3".

The thumb screws: http://www.automotioncomponents.co.uk/en/catalog/mechanical/thumb-scre ws/flat-knurled-thumb-screws--steel/p0405.zp
Jcsveth
Boards arrived from the pre-order today in the US. Looks straight-forward - going to start collecting parts next week and do not anticipate any problems. Tayda and Mouser for me. I am very interested how others are laying out their faceplate, triggers, and text. Please share for inspiration.
ikkini
I also ordered a Lyra-8 kit.
I didn't want to buy another synth, but this one sounds so unique, I couldn't resist.
phisynth
same here, kit just paid w00t
Addam
Well goddamn... I was just telling myself not to commit to any more projects bigger than a 4hp passive attenuator so... I ordered the Lyra-4. Anyone else here building a 4? If I should butt out and start a new thread do let me know.

I took a glance at the BOM and it seems fairly straightforward but there are couple things I was scratching my head a little on.. if anyone does end up posting a mouser cart or similar (even partial, for the Lyra-8), that'd be great. Even for instance... anyone have recommendations on a stable 12V power supply for US plug?

lasesentaysiete
Those Bud boxes look nice, good call.

Any brave individuals thinking of adding additional CV ins or even switches to vary between "tweakable" caps for the distortion and delay LPFs (possibly not worth it)?
Jcsveth
If anyone finds a US supplier for those knurled thumb-screws please post. I do not think I'll end up with them but want to build it to 'stock' and then play around when casing it.
Oscilloclast
So, I got my boards and I have a few questions.

1, Are we going to post our building questions on this forum or are people contacting Vlad directly? (would be better to post theme here and have Vlad answer them so that everyone can see the answers).

2. Is there a drill template? I've seen the design for the front panel but can that be scaled correctly for a drill template?

3. Is the PCB with the pots/switches meant to be mounted directly against (in contact with) the aluminum enclosure? The pictures certainly look like that is the way its constructed. I noticed that the side of the PCB that mounts against the enclosure has bare pads (which would make contact with the enclosure) which would mean it would need to be isolated somehow.

4. There is a resistor listed as "3 mom", I'm assuming this means "3 Megohm"?

Thanks,
David
jsu
Jcsveth wrote:
If anyone finds a US supplier for those knurled thumb-screws please post. I do not think I'll end up with them but want to build it to 'stock' and then play around when casing it.


I asked Vlad about the thumb screws and the part we'll need to source is DIN653, but other kinds of screws will also work
nigel_mck
Any news on Lyra-8 PCB availability?
mbroers
yeah sign me up for the 8 diy kit when it becomes available again sheesh, sounds awesome!
Starspawn
You have to send Vlad emails.
Lyra 8 kits are sold out, but some Lyra 4 left.
Dont know when next run.
ikkini
Hi,

Since no Mouser cart was shared, I'll try to make one this week. I'll share it here if anybody wants to make a double check before I order it.
Oscilloclast
I'll be getting most of my stuff from mouser, so if you want to share your cart that would be great. One thing I was confused about was the "3 mom" resistor, which I'm assuming means "3 Megohm"? Is that what you think?
cbeefheartuk
If you do post a cart that would be brilliant. I have been really busy so not even looked at anything yet but would double check a cart.
Addam
Oscilloclast wrote:
One thing I was confused about was the "3 mom" resistor, which I'm assuming means "3 Megohm"? Is that what you think?


I just took a look at the build doc for the L4 and it's gotta be 3 Meg. That one appears at the top and values descend from there. The resistors that have no K or M multiplier designation at the bottom are also listed as "300 om" for example.

I'm curious to see if anyone has any creative solutions for that cabling. Maybe molex connectors?
lasesentaysiete
does anyone else find the control board design an odd choice? I mean that instead of having the pcb-mountable components mount to the pcb via regular footprints, we get this sort of smd type style with THT components. Anyone know why this is?

I actually don't mind it, btw. But it seems an unnecessary amount of work. seriously, i just don't get it
lasesentaysiete
Addam wrote:


I'm curious to see if anyone has any creative solutions for that cabling.

I'm using something like this:
http://www.dx.com/p/30cm-breadboard-wires-for-electronic-diy-40-cable- pack-80207#.WTcTsLzyjaY

Male pin headers on the main board with the above cables connected to them. The control board doesn't seem to offer much choice. The hole-less pads I mentioned in my previous post necessitate that you solder bare wire directly to them, I think. So with the wires I linked to, I've cut the female headers off of one end in order the expose the bare wire.
Starspawn
lasesentaysiete wrote:
does anyone else find the control board design an odd choice? I mean that instead of having the pcb-mountable components mount to the pcb via regular footprints, we get this sort of smd type style with THT components. Anyone know why this is?

I actually don't mind it, btw. But it seems an unnecessary amount of work. seriously, i just don't get it


For sourcing parts I much prefer it to other designs simply because it will take most any pots. Sure theres a little wiring, but the wiring is to close places on the pcb and not hanging, so for me this is the best of two worlds.
Expensive uncommon panel parts piss me off.
Addam
lasesentaysiete wrote:
Addam wrote:

I'm curious to see if anyone has any creative solutions for that cabling.

I'm using something like this:
http://www.dx.com/p/30cm-breadboard-wires-for-electronic-diy-40-cable- pack-80207#.WTcTsLzyjaY

Male pin headers on the main board with the above cables connected to them. The control board doesn't seem to offer much choice. The hole-less pads I mentioned in my previous post necessitate that you solder bare wire directly to them, I think. So with the wires I linked to, I've cut the female headers off of one end in order the expose the bare wire.


That's funny I was just browsing Thonk and saw they have some ribbon cables exactly like that (and put them in my cart) - do you find the connections are secure enough? Cutting and crimping all those wires for molex would not be the most fun way to spend an evening.. especially just to solder the other end anyway.

I just took a closer look at the build photos... it does seem an odd choice to have all those wire connections surface mount soldered. I guess it's so they can keep the faceplate clean by not having to use screws and spacers (or a specific pcb mount type of pot as Starspawn suggested)? I wonder if that's how the "factory" ones are put together, as well.
lasesentaysiete
Addam wrote:
do you find the connections are secure enough?

I bought this set from Tayda, and they're fine. I have used some in the past that were a little loose, though. Its a good idea not to go connecting and disconnecting a bunch of times, just in case they loosen.
phisynth
Started building it w00t

regarding the resistors, I noticed the following so far :
- I found 11X 100 ohm instead of 10 in the BOM (in red below)
- I only found 9X 39K instead of 11 in the BOM (in green below)
- I couldn't find the 62k resistor (1 in the BOM) despite looking for 10 min at the board



Also, as I never worked with a component PCB before, I am wondering if it is risky to start soldering the components on it before having the definitive panel ? (risk of misalignment)

Anyone have experience with this ?
Starspawn
I confirm all this.
soldering on the main pcb shouldnt matter for alignment unless its really tall caps, id wait with the panel pcb until youve got a box, but with a little give in the wires from pots and switches you should be able to have what little give the holes let you for alignment.
phisynth
Thanks

went away and started soldering the knob on the components PCB, I guess as long the panel has the same hole tolerance as the PCB it shouldn't matter if there's some slight misalignment...

Another thing I am wondering is how to avoid any contact between the DIN653 screws and the panel itself seriously, i just don't get it
Addam
phisynth wrote:
Another thing I am wondering is how to avoid any contact between the DIN653 screws and the panel itself seriously, i just don't get it


The DIN653s are M3 threads right? Can I ask where you sourced these if you did? I suppose you could use small M3 nylon spacers (making the panel wholes large enough to accommodate, of course). This would give you some vertical clearance, as well. L4 BOM lists "Insulation sleeve M3 outer diametr 4 mm" which I guess is to serve that purpose. Admittedly, I don't have my boards yet so I'm having a little trouble envisioning this, especially with that PCB flush against the panel.
pirx
Hi, another Lyra-8 builder here. I have got my thumb screws from here:

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/knurled-thumb-screws-din-653/400831-SKTT-M3- 12-A1

(shipping to the US is ~ $12).

For the insulating washers I am planning to use:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91145a129/=182mvmy

ID 2.92mm, OD 3.68mm - not ideal, but it should work.
Addam
pirx

Thanks for the info.. black ones look sharp.. I assume they have the same resistive properties, basically? Minimum order of 25 for black is a bit unjustifiable, though

Looks like these mofos have them, too, though stainless steel very expensive.. plus a $9 processing fee (no shipping)
http://estore.jwwinco.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=653 -M3-16-NI

where the black ones are very cheap
http://estore.jwwinco.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=3N1 6F48

These are listed as "steel, black oxide finish" which I'm guessing is not good for this application
pirx
Yeah, the black oxide finish is non-conductive, so probably not good for this application. I ordered the stainless steel ones. Brass knobs should be fine, too.
phisynth
Thanks for the info.

On my side, I so far didn't really made a deep search for the screws, but I keep seeing really stupid prices for these like this :

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/knurled-thumb-screws-din-653/400831-SKTT-M3- 12-A1?google_shopping=1&c=8&mkwid=c_dc&pcrid=200246448451&kword=&match =&plid=www.synthforum.nl&gclid=CMHY0JqCw9QCFcwy0wodTTQBiA

$26.49 each, but if you buy 100 you can get these as low as $2100 for the lot
hihi very frustrating d'oh!
lasesentaysiete
I picked these up from amazon. 9.7€ for 30. Not sure if they'll work, but I'll try!

Addam
phisynth wrote:

$26.49 each, but if you buy 100 you can get these as low as $2100 for the lot
hihi very frustrating d'oh!


Sorry, I'm gonna have to pass on that group buy. lol

Anyone know if these will accommodate M3 screws? hihi


lasesentaysiete
If they don't work you can always use them to VERY easily attach and detach PCB sandwiches that use spacers!
pirx
phisynth I think that price is excessive! Wow! I purchased these screws just a few days ago:

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/knurled-thumb-screws-din-653/400831-SKTT-M3- 12-A1

and the price was $1.49 / piece. Perhaps this is an error on their website?

I also investigated McMaster / Carr inventory, but they only seem to sell 12mm diameter screws in black-oxide finish:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#92552a414/=183iz5l
pirx
FWIW, I checked this morning and the prices on Accu website appear to be sane again (~ $1.50 - $2.00).

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/940-knurled-thumb-screws-din-653#elasticsear ch_id_feature_538843=538843_701&id_elasticsearch_category=940&orderby= ranking&orderway=asc&p=1

I finished my front panel! I am using nylon washers (0.031" thick) to get clearance between the front panel and the control board, and right-angle pin headers for making connections to main and I/O boards.


phisynth
Thanks for the head up about the screws

And nice !

what case are you going to use ?
phisynth
Great idea to use right angled pin headers, didn't thought about that...

a couple thing I'd like to ask you, if you don't mind :

- how thick is your panel ? I realise it might be too much if more than 2 mm considering the shortness of the pots thread

- did you put something between the PCB and the panel as well, or are they lying directly against each other ?

- How did you mount the switches ? Did you keep a hex nut and the locking ring between the switch and the PCB ? I am considering doing so to avoid the bushing emerging too much above the panel, but here also it depends if something is required between the panel ad the PCB to avoid any risk of contact...

- what length did you choose for the DIN653 screws ? I was thinking ordering the 12mm ones, but I guess it doesn't matter much
pirx
Thanks, phisynth!

I am planning to mount this panel into my modular panel "format" that is 32" x 16" steel pegboard, so no real dedicated enclosure here.

My panel is 2.5 mm thick aluminum (FPE, anodized with printed graphic). I am using nylon washers (0.031" thick) between the panel and the control board, and also standard potentiometer washer on top of the panel, and there is enough bushing going through for the nut (standard Alpha 16 mm pot, the threaded bushing is 6.35 mm long). The washers prevent vias in the control board PCB from touching the front panel.

For the switches I am using dress nuts on the top, so they look OK even though the bushing extents a bit over the panel. Using a hex nut below sounds like a good idea.

It is a good question about the contact between the controls and the front panel. I put the nylon washers that are insulating (and the front panel is anodized, so it is supposed to be non-conductive), but the potentiometers and switches extend though the drilled holes, so there is electrical contact between the front panel and the controls anyway. I am assuming it is OK, but perhaps better ask Vlad?

I ordered the 12 mm ones, I think anything over 6 or 8 mm should work, just make sure the standoffs are long enough so there is clearance between the screw and the main board above.
phisynth
Oh yeah, I remember your fantastic modular now w00t
-> hence the red color I guess...

thanks for the explanations, very useful thumbs up

and btw, you were right for the screw price on Accu website, but I checked again tonight and they're back to $26.49 each very frustrating ...should have ordered this morning. I don't understand what's going on, probably a bug...

I found stainless steel thumb screws on mcmaster, but there quite expensive ($2.84/ea for M3/11 mm)
Jcsveth
Knurled Screws - Received these - checked continuity - all good.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-M3-10-DIN653-knurling-flat-head- knurled-thumb-screw-hand-tighten-screws-hw107/32692161145.html

I ordered a set of M3 and a set of M4 and both fit the PCB. M4 has a larger top and so rest closer together which could be good. Ordered 20 of each and the complete order of 40 screws including shipping came to $12.14.
Addam
Jcsveth wrote:
Knurled Screws - Received these - checked continuity - all good.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-M3-10-DIN653-knurling-flat-head- knurled-thumb-screw-hand-tighten-screws-hw107/32692161145.html

I ordered a set of M3 and a set of M4 and both fit the PCB. M4 has a larger top and so rest closer together which could be good. Ordered 20 of each and the complete order of 40 screws including shipping came to $12.14.


Heck yeah, this looks like a winner. I'm probably gonna go with M4 as you mentioned but might just order both, also. Probably stock up on some cheap nylon screws and spacers, too. Great resource!!

pirx, looking very nice. The red gives it an extra "organismic" feel twisted
hybernaut
Beautiful work, pirx! I've just ordered a pair of LYRA-4 kits, and this is great inspiration.

pirx wrote:


hybernaut
I'm ordering parts for a pair of LYRA-4, and can't find the TDA2822 DIP-8 output amplifier. Does anyone have suggestions for a suitable replacement?

I found this NJM2073D and given the low cost and socketed package, figured I would give it a shot.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NJR/NJM2073D
lasesentaysiete
got my TDA2822 from Tayda
hybernaut
Oh, I didn't think to look there...while ordering a box of pots and knobs!
Thanks for the tip.

lasesentaysiete wrote:
got my TDA2822 from Tayda
Addam
Anyone do a mouser cart (even a partial) for this guy? Most is pretty straightforward and available from Tayda, etc. (not including conductive screw hardware, of course) but a couple of these caps I could use a little help on.

BOM: "Cer 510pf-50v" - I don't see any 510 pF ceramic caps on mouser. help

Those bigger ceramics such as "Cer 4.7mf-50v" - looks like THIS is a good fit?

"non polar 10 mf - 25 v" - I'm unfamiliar with non-polarized electros. THESE dudes?
I'm thinking pic on mouser which shows polarity should not be trusted?

Big ass electrolytics such as "EL 2200mf-25v" Closest thing I could find was THIS
All the similar caps I see rated for 25V are over twice the size of the 13x20mm spec'ed in the BOM. This thing's going to need it's own case.
seriously, i just don't get it
ikkini
Sorry, I didn't ordered from Mouser finally. I mainly ordered from Tayda what was available. And then I'll look for the missing parts, including these caps your talking about.
lasesentaysiete
Addam
510pf: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=80-C322C511JDG

4.7uf: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=810-FG14X5R1H475KRT0

10uf non-polar: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=667-ECE-A1VN100U

2200uf: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=647-UVZ1E222MHD

I used all these components and my build works 100%
Addam
Cheers for these, guys. lasesentaysiete, excellent, I'm adding your suggestions to my spreadsheet now. They also look to be cheaper than things I was finding. Just when I think I'm getting decent at navigating mouser's page I start getting stumped. hmmm.....
phisynth
I have some trouble finding a ø 8 mm 470 uF electro cap as listed in the BOM, and the 2200 uF one I got from Tayda is too big (ø 16 mm / length 26 mm), so both together, they don't fit

Apparently all the 470 uF caps on mouser are also ø10 mm

Can you confirm it works with the 2200 uF you mention above with a ø10 mm 470 uF on its side ?

Thanks
lasesentaysiete
phisynth
I didn't bend the 2200uf cap on its side. It stands straight up.
phisynth
Ah, OK, thanks mine won't fit correctly if straight because lead spacing is 7.5 mm... will order some from mouser...

other than that, here's my progress... this component PCB is a TON of work
woah

I think a finished unit is a real bargain a that price...



phisynth
pirx : may I ask the reference of the knobs you used for tune ? They look great.
pirx
phisynth: I have got them from Allied Electronics:

http://www.alliedelec.com/te-connectivity-pkd70b101-4/70156301/

I actually like better the knobs in original Lyra-8 design because they have an index dot on top, but I had these lying around for few years, so I used them.

I have got these 2200 uF caps, they are 12.5mm in diameter, but a bit high (35mm):

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/eeu-fr1v222l/panasonic

I think my 470 uF caps are also 10mm, but I need to double check.

The build is quite involved, indeed!

Thanks for your earlier comments, by the way. Your fabulous videos are one of the reasons I've got into modular (and into banana synths, in particular).
phisynth
Thanks man, means a lot to me thumbs up
phisynth
Currently designing the panel, one thing I noticed : on the pics of the actual unit, the screws supposed to attach the main PCB through the components PCB to the panel doesn't show :



in fact, the top right one would fall right into the "LYRA - 8 ORGANISMIC SYNTHESIZER" text.

Anybody know how the PCB is attached to the panel in the production units ?
lasesentaysiete
phisynth
the production cases have the standoffs welded to the interior, I'd say. A lot of metal cases are made this way. Have a look at the photos in the documents package.

And yes, some of the writing is covered by the screws.
phisynth
Thanks !

Here's my panel design (largely inspired by the original design). Tried different fonts, but I think this modcan A font suits the panel quite well. Banana IN / OUT on top. I think I'll go for the black one


phisynth
Almost done with my build w00t

So far, it’s working 90%, the voices triggering, the delays, the LFO

but I have a problem with the distortion section, maybe you can help me troubleshooting it :

I noticed I only have 0.02v on the control marked 5.87v pad near header 8. If I disconnect the DRV1 cable from this header, the voltage goes up to 11.23v on the pad.

Also, when I turn the mix knob fully CW on the distortion section, the synth becomes silent. Before that, it also sound a bit strange, more like bit reduction it seems

I also noticed the led on this section stays brightly lid, without any perceptible change. Is it supposed to be so ?

Can you think of something I should check ?

Thanks in advance for your help !
ikkini
lasesentaysiete wrote:

10uf non-polar: http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=667-ECE-A1VN100U


Sorry for the stupid question, but these caps are bipolar, so is there a proper way to solder them or can they go both sides ?
lasesentaysiete
ikkini
either way is fine. Just like resitsors or non-polarized caps.
ikkini
Thank you for the reply ! smile

I have a last question, since I'm French, I can't find the proper word on Mouser to find female headers for my ribbon cables to connect it to the pin headers. Could you help me ?
lasesentaysiete
je sais pas non plus comment on dit ça en français, mais tu pourrais checker Mouser en anglais, en cherchant "pin header".
ikkini
En français ! Merci ! SlayerBadger!

Well, with this single word I get 52 917 Matches ! woah

I've tried some keywords, but I can't find a proper way to connect the ribbon cables between boards...
lasesentaysiete
I bought mine from Tayda confused

this should be a little more precise: http://www.mouser.es/Connectors/Headers-Wire-Housings/_/N-ay0lo?P=1z0x bxoZ1ytkls2Z1z0spqhZ1z0wxp6Z1yzv7x1Z1z0z5h6&Keyword=female+pin+header& FS=True

can't remember how many positions are needed, though.
ikkini
Thanks ! smile
thresholdpeople
phisynth wrote:
Thanks !

Here's my panel design (largely inspired by the original design). Tried different fonts, but I think this modcan A font suits the panel quite well. Banana IN / OUT on top. I think I'll go for the black one




Cool! Don't forget a ground jack for those bananas!

Is the audio output line level?

I'm on the waiting list for the synth - does the DIY kit include a vector layout of the front panel? Building one may be more fun, but I don't have time for doing a front panel layout at the moment.
phisynth
In fact in the meantime I realised some jack have normalisations (hold gate, CV delay & CV voices), so I think I'll forget about the banana outputs in the final layout because it would mess with the signals and use jack <-> banana adaptors instead

I'm happy to share my panel design if you're interested (made with Inkscape)
thresholdpeople
Oh yeah, thanks! If I end up building one, I'd like to do it with bananas too. I have these really small toggle switches that work pretty good for normalisations.

Does Vlad send schematics with the kit? Wonder if any mods are possible? This is where I always get myself in trouble though and the project sprawls...
phisynth
No schematic provided. And he does provide a low-res image of the panel design only

Oh and btw, mine is working 100% now, thanks to Vlad, I found the trouble came from a small steel washer I placed on the top right hole, on top of a standoff used to hold the PCB together. It was creating a short on the DRV circuit trough the vias around the hole. Attention to details, as always, is crucial w00t w00t
hybernaut
phisynth wrote:

Oh and btw, mine is working 100% now, thanks to Vlad


Congrats! Any luck contacting whales yet? thumbs up

I'm still searching for reasonably priced DIN 653 thumb screws or replacements, and worrying about my jumper wires, but I hope to have first audio from my LYRA-4 today.
Addam
Sorry guys... another cap question. Anyone using cheap (Tayda) ceramics for the common values like .1uF or are people opting for C0G, box film or pricier multilayers from Mouser for all the ceramics?
lasesentaysiete
Addam
I went with the monolithic ceramics from Tayda for most part. eg:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-1uf-50v-multilayer-ceramic-capacitor .html
Addam
Thanks again, lasesentaysiete, I already ordered ceramic discs from tayda but haven't placed a mouser order yet.. will probably upgrade to multilayers
nourson
Hello !
Another Lyra 8 builder here, from Belgium.
I'm about finishing the soldering and start wondering about my panel.
It's my first DIY synth project. First step to a little modular.
I plan to realize my panel with an oxydized copper plate.
Is it realistic given that conductivity of the copper ?
sixty_n
Hi Nourson and welcome to muffs.

The commercially built Lyras have a metal front plate and there are insulating spacers in the BOM for around the thumbscrew touch contacts so as long as you are careful it should be fine. Also you'll be able to check for unwanted shorts with the continuity beep mode on your multimeter before you power it up.
Addam
nourson
As sixty_n mentioned, make sure you isolate those touch contacts from your panel. The metal housing on your pots, switches, etc contacting your copper plate is no problem. You want to avoid any components (physically large capacitors for instance) from touching the panel, of course.

Please post pictures of the panel when you have made it. Love that idea!
nourson
Thanks guys !
I'm quite slow but i'll post some pictures when done ;-)
njh
New to the forum as a non-lurker - hello.

Am considering diving into a Lyra-8 kit but concerned about how tricky it might be. Have built one DIY synth before - a Mutable Shruthi - but that's it. And I have not much technical electronics knowledge beyond basics. Though I do have Google and this thread...

For those who have built a few things: how difficult was it to pull parts together and build compared with other kits?

Don't mind spending time on it but would rather not mess it up and regret it.

Cheers,

N
flab
i am about to buy a kit for those, 2 questions

how much the bom costs more or less

and

i have a huge eurorack, will i actually use this one(philosophy)?
Addam
njh
Welcome! I'd say this is not an easy build (though I haven't even started mine yet). There are some oddball parts, some basic wiring required, and you'll have to put your own case/panel together. The build documentation is also pretty bare bones. That said, people here are helpful, as you can see, and if you take your time and enjoy building/soldering this one seems like one of the more special projects out there. My best advice is to take a look at the documentation and build photos and see what you think.
pirx
The build is straightforward, but it is a bit tedious, mostly because there are many parts and the parts are quite diverse. There are no trimmers, so the setup should be very easy. I made two mistakes in my build: used wrong type of toggle switches, and didn't normalize CV connectors (I am using bananas instead of default 1/4" jacks). But it works now. I just posted a video in General Gear section Lyra-8 thread.
dettifoss
hybernaut wrote:
Oh, I didn't think to look there...while ordering a box of pots and knobs!
Thanks for the tip.

lasesentaysiete wrote:
got my TDA2822 from Tayda


I can't for the life of me find these on Tayda. Do you have a link for them?
pirx
I've got them from eBay (I think this seller is actually eBay outlet of Tayda):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231564329649

I see them listed on Tayda website as well:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/tda2822-audio-amplifier-1-channel-mono -headphones-2-channel-class-ab-1wx1at32-ohm-1-8v-15v-pdip-8.html
dettifoss
pirx wrote:
I've got them from eBay (I think this seller is actually eBay outlet of Tayda):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231564329649

I see them listed on Tayda website as well:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/tda2822-audio-amplifier-1-channel-mono -headphones-2-channel-class-ab-1wx1at32-ohm-1-8v-15v-pdip-8.html


Thanks so much. I don't know how I missed it, but I did.
cjnuk3
Hi all, I'm in the process of building my Lyra-8 kit, so far so good but does anyone know what are you supposed to use for what looks like a resistor outline but with 4 dashes where the value would normally be? There are 8 of them, one in each of the oscillator sections, and they appear to be in parallel with the 10V zener diodes (the ones that are perpendicular to the edge connectors).

Thanks in advance!
sduck
It's in the Assembly Instructions:

pirx
Just a quick note - I didn't have to install these (no sound leak), but the outcome probably varies from build to build.
cjnuk3
sduck wrote:
It's in the Assembly Instructions:



Oh dear, now I feel incredibly stupid!! Thanks for helping me out anyway. One of these days I really will RTFM.....
MorayM
Hi everyone, I'm working on my Lyra 8 at the moment - very slowly, I'm very busy on other stuff at the moment! Thanks for all your advice on the build, and for the links to the weird caps. What are you guys using for the 160V CCCP cap? My big box of weird bits has failed me... hmmm.....
nourson
I bought this, but my Lyra is not working yet, so can't tell you if they're good or no, but look sexy :
http://www.befr.ebay.be/itm/1-x-0-1uF-160V-MBM-RUSSIAN-TONE-PAPER-CAP- GUITAR-BASS-/141735514638?hash=item210018520e:g:CYIAAOSwDNdVv47~
nourson
Hello !
I'm still working on my panel. I didn't find a copper plate thick enough. So I'll build mine from 2 plates. One of a 2mm plexiglass, and than epoxy a 0,7mm copper plate on top.
I'm wondering about this :
On the main pcb, one of the pcb spacers hole has a conductive ring. I guess the screw of this spacer has to be in contact with the copper part of my panel. Right ? Mayde should I solder it ? For the others screws it's not important ?

I'm talking about this ring :


The screw on the other side (plexi) :


The future copper front :

[/img]
cjnuk3
I've finished mine and it's mostly working ok (though it's rather hard to tell given all the interaction between the controls!)

I just have 2 issues and I wonder if anyone else has them too? All the oscillators faintly breakthrough when the drive and volume are set high though it's barely noticeable at normal listening levels. It's nothing to do with touch pad sensitivity as it occurs even when all the touch pads are disconnected. I have made sure the PCB is as clean as possible and there are no deposits which might be causing this. It's as if the VCA's (if it has such things) aren't quite closing.

Also I have a slight but noticeable permanent vibrato on voice 2 only, no matter how the controls are set. I have no idea which part of the circuit governs this so if anyone does I'd love to know, thanks!
nourson
Starts becoming a Lyra 8 (still don't know if it's working, didn't recieved the 4016 yet)
moonagedaydream
That looks awesome! hopefully a restock of the PCB's will come soon...
shiftr
I hope there will be kits again. Anybody know something about it?
nourson
Hello, I'm still waiting for the 4016 IC. No news.
Could I replace it by something like this ?
http://www.newark.com/texas-instruments/sn74hc4066n/analog-switch-quad -spst-dip-14/dp/76C3574?ost=SN74HC4066N&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3 Aen-US%2FElement14_US%2Fsearch
nourson
Quick reply from Vlad : YES
nourson
Hi everyone !
All of the parts are in the PCB. But no sound. I have very low voltage, 0,8V. The problem comes from the main board (when the main board is disconected, there's 12V). As we don't have schematics, I've checked the voltage on every point of the main board. And there's nothing uper 0,8V.
Any idea ?

29/12 Edit :
I removed all IC's. The voltage came back to normal. So I put them back. And voltage is good. But two of my TL074 are very hot.
And still no sound. I have only some noise moving back and forwards, at a low volume.
Don't know where to seek...
JanneI
Hi all! Does anyone have a .fpd file for the panel?
sduck
I started working on one a while ago but got sidetracked and never finished it. Yet. All I've got so far is the holes in place. I've got 2 rather large projects to complete before I get to this, so it may be a while.
pirx
FWIW, here is a .fpd file for my "Tangerine" Lyra-8 panel (I asked Vlad for permission to put it here). Drilling holes match the DIY panel PCB. The background is just a PDF file I made in Inkscape. It is heavily customized (color, font, 12" x 12" size), but perhaps it can be used as a starting point.
JanneI
Awesome, thank you so much!
seal_cobblr
pirx wrote:
FWIW, here is a .fpd file for my "Tangerine" Lyra-8 panel (I asked Vlad for permission to put it here). Drilling holes match the DIY panel PCB. The background is just a PDF file I made in Inkscape. It is heavily customized (color, font, 12" x 12" size), but perhaps it can be used as a starting point.


Cool! Could you perhaps upload a svg file or something i might open in inkscape? Guinness ftw!
JanneI
pirx wrote:
FWIW, here is a .fpd file ......


Hey, what's the point of the non-circular holes for the pots? Thanks.
sduck
Maybe has something to do with the specific pots he used. As in all fpd files, one has to modify the holes and such to match the hardware that one is using.
JanneI
sduck wrote:
Maybe has something to do with the specific pots he used. As in all fpd files, one has to modify the holes and such to match the hardware that one is using.


Sure, but even the M3 mounting holes have this "D-shape"? Maybe just a bad conversion etc..
pirx
Yeah, the weird hole shape is because I did automated conversion from the source *.dxf file (included in Lyra-8 docs). I should've probably make them round, but I was too lazy. In practice, it didn't really matter - standard 1/4" Alpha pots (16 mm shaft) fit these holes perfectly. You may want to replace them with round holes, as sduck suggested, to be 100% sure.

I attached a source *.svg drawing.
JanneI
Ok, no problem. But you have verified that those centers of the holes are 100% correct? For example "thumbs screws" are 32mm apart from each other (vertical) and 14mm (horizontal)?
pirx
Yes, I did, the holes match exactly. You may want to print the *.fpd on paper before sending it to fabrication and do 1:1 comparison with the panel PCB.

Here is a picture of my assembled unit:

JanneI
Great! I'm already converting circular holes to your file, so I'll share a .fpd file once finished. 12" x 12" hammond case is what I'm also using for the enclosure.
cniers13
Anyone have a recommendation for knobs to use? I'd like to match the ones that are used normally.
cniers13
Along with the sizing needed for the knobs
phantompowered
Well I have put myself down on the waiting list for a kit. Can't wait to start tinkering.

Love the panel progress Nourson!
Jonachi
anyone know how lon the waiting list is for a diy kit at the moment?
mahrman
My friend just finished building the most beautiful lyra-8 synth, so now i am on the hunt for a proper case. How did you make a case for your lyra diy?
JanneI


My Schaeffer printed panel (12" x 12") arrived and everything fits!
ezrock
Whoa that panel looks neat! I am on the waitlist for the DIY kit and resources such as the frontplate drawing will soon be of great help.
JanneI
Here's my 12" x 12" panel files, fpd, dxf and pdf. This is edited from the pirx's panel files, but all is done within Front Design (even the arrows and curves). This panel costs around 100 euros with printed graphics. If you want it with engravings, I suggest that you first convert all the graphics to a single hpgl file and by doing it save a lot of money.

Always check everything first with you actual build before ordering, hole sizes, etc. I used 2,5mm aluminium, which was almost to thick to mount the pots, so don't go with 3mm. I used little plastic washers between the panel and the control board for all the switches and pots.

I hope this is useful for someone!
JanneI
For some reason the .dxf file doesn't come thru....well, you can export it from the fpd file. smile
JanneI
Finished!

pirx
Beautiful build! It looks very classy. Have you made any recordings yet?
trimix
Hey has anyone done a panel layout for the Back panel of the Lyra8?
I'm mostly wondering what works for size. I guess exact position relative to the front isn't too important.
nourson
Here's my finished Lyra. Starting point for a modular. Oxidized copper plate with engravings for the panel.
Everything works fine except the vibrato, that after 2 or 3 oscillations comes back to normal.



Here it is with her other frieds
LED-man
Is the red gas tank for your desoldering station ?
nourson
For my SMD station ;-)
No, I just have no money to buy a church bell... So I have gas tank and a reverb.
tweakfilter
nourson wrote:
For my SMD station ;-)
No, I just have no money to buy a church bell... So I have gas tank and a reverb.

So cool thumbs up I bet you have a great studio there:)
willbloke
I've been on the waiting list for ages and they finally contacted me yesterday , been waiting since November !

Can't wait to get started , roughly how many components are there ?
Looks like a major build !
shiftr
Oh that's exciting. I'm on there since end of december. Haven't heard anything yet. Hope it will be coming fast.
willbloke
Exited , the PCBs are on the way !
electricanada
nourson wrote:
Everything works fine except the vibrato, that after 2 or 3 oscillations comes back to normal.


That might not be a flaw. The Lyra's vibrato does not always vibrate in the way you might expect.
4floorsofwhores
People on the waiting list check your spam folders, that's where my message was hiding smile Deep joy
shiftr
I have the mail too smile

Is anybody planning on making some extra panels to sell? Or maybe a group buy?
jimfowler
I will eventually be in need of a panel so if there's a group buy you can almost invariably count me in.

- Jim
stoplitewigglin
Hi

First post here, really interested in building this mad instrument, and that thread is already a gold mine of info, thanks guys !

I'm also waiting for PCBs from Soma, so count me in for a group buy (details like supplier and limitation to Europe/USA need to be worked out I suppose).

Related to this, I managed to "reverse-engineer" the official panel display from the manual PDF (is that okay with Soma ? No idea, but I suppose so if number of DIY builders is quite low). I tried to combine that with the fpd file but not quite sure alignment is correct.

Not posting the SVG files as an attachment by respect to Soma, but if anobody is interested, pm.
Sammus
stoplitewigglin wrote:
Hi

First post here, really interested in building this mad instrument, and that thread is already a gold mine of info, thanks guys !

I'm also waiting for PCBs from Soma, so count me in for a group buy (details like supplier and limitation to Europe/USA need to be worked out I suppose).

Related to this, I managed to "reverse-engineer" the official panel display from the manual PDF (is that okay with Soma ? No idea, but I suppose so if number of DIY builders is quite low). I tried to combine that with the fpd file but not quite sure alignment is correct.

Not posting the SVG files as an attachment by respect to Soma, but if anobody is interested, pm.


The diy archive on their website already has a dxf file for the front panel, so I don't think it's something soma trying to hide smile
stoplitewigglin
Already had seen the archive on their website, thanks for mentioning it, there is now a V3, so maybe some changes on the BOM (v2.6, V2.4 prior). Already have ordered some components, time to check for differences !

I had seen the .dxf file, but unless I'm mistaken, it only contains the holes of the front panel.

Sorry for the confusion, I was talking about what's printed on front panel (words, arrows, etc), extracted from the PDF manual.
Purveyor2
Has anyone built this for euro? I can imagine it in the bottom row of my case.
Sammus
stoplitewigglin wrote:
Already had seen the archive on their website, thanks for mentioning it, there is now a V3, so maybe some changes on the BOM (v2.6, V2.4 prior). Already have ordered some components, time to check for differences !

I had seen the .dxf file, but unless I'm mistaken, it only contains the holes of the front panel.

Sorry for the confusion, I was talking about what's printed on front panel (words, arrows, etc), extracted from the PDF manual.


Ah I see, nice work smile
electricanada
Purveyor2 wrote:
Has anyone built this for euro? I can imagine it in the bottom row of my case.


Don't think that pcb is going to fit into euro.
4floorsofwhores
Has anyone got a rough idea of bom cost?
( i know there are a lot of variables in switch/pot prices etc)
willbloke
Can anyone in the UK who has the bare bones kit please confirm it was delivered by the Post Office or another Courier ?

I'm a bit worried mine has disappeared , the Tracking Number says delivery was attempted 6.30 AM on Saturday , needless to say I was asleep , not card through the door to say Pick up at Post Office , nothing ?

I've contacted Soma , lets see what happens , gutted as I waited over 6 months for the PCBs to come back into stock and now they've disappeared ,

very frustrating
4floorsofwhores
I don't know for sure but it did ask for telephone number to give courier on the order form
willbloke
Nope , no missed calls either ..
wiperactive
willbloke. Just searched in vain for my parcel which contained the PCBs from last year, an email search shows it was posted by EMS Post then handed over to another UK based courier who left it with a neighbour... can't remember if it was Royal Mail or somebody else.

Have you re-checked the tracking info as an attempted 6.30 am delivery isn't within a normal home delivery window. Perhaps the 'attempted delivery' could refer to a pre-home delivery UK based hub/depot instead?
sixty_n
@willbloke It probably means that they have kept it at the depot because there is a customs fee. You should get a silver slip through the door in a day or two telling you how much to pay.
Luap
I had a letter from ParcelFarce today to tell me I need to hand over £18.61 in import fees etc before they can deliver it. Once paid I should have it in a day or 2.
willbloke
Huzzah , arrived today was being held ransom by uk Parcelfarce who charged me the luxury of £11.25 to collect £7 VAT , angry

Onwards and upwards !
4floorsofwhores
Anyone started building yet?
whyfarer
I got an email today notifying me that my lyra-8 kit has shipped! to bad I don't have any building time for the next few months...
Purveyor2
Anyone making cases for Lyra 8? I’d love to build one but am shit with enclosures.
Bjarne
+1

Purveyor2 wrote:
Anyone making cases for Lyra 8? I’d love to build one but am shit with enclosures.
pix
I just got a kit and I'm thinking of doing the panel in plexiglass. Will this work? Are there any things I should be aware in terms of panel grounding etc?

I see a few screws that connect the panel to what seems like a ground connection on the pcb. Will this work with a plastic panel?

EDIT: just heard from SOMA and plastic for the panel is fine.
Master G
Hi LYRA builders.Will get my LYRA-8 kit in a week.
Started already going through the BOM, long process.
Most electronic parts are found, just have some questions (appreciate any advise):

1. 0.1mf-160v СССР
2. MP 0.47 mf
3. MP 0,22 mf
4. MP 0,1 mf
5. EL 470mf-25v
6. Cer 1.2nf-50v

ALPHA pots - there are different RV16AF... models... what to choose? (for example
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/100k-ohm-c100k-100kc-anti-log-taper-p otentiometer.html)

all other staff is more or less clear... will see once the process will be started

Plan to use this case https://www.mouser.es/ProductDetail/563-AC-1424 - hope it is ok)

Good luck Rockin' Banana!
willbloke
pix wrote:
I just got a kit and I'm thinking of doing the panel in plexiglass. Will this work? Are there any things I should be aware in terms of panel grounding etc?

I see a few screws that connect the panel to what seems like a ground connection on the pcb. Will this work with a plastic panel?

EDIT: just heard from SOMA and plastic for the panel is fine.


I'm wondering the same thing , but I'm guessing the little circuit board shields included may mean it's a bit fussy with shielding ?
4floorsofwhores
So my Lyra's have been with UK customs since the 8th eek!
Branko
Just got my two Lyra-8 kits. The instructions seem a bit barebones but it looks simple enough.

How much did y'all end up spending in parts, excluding the case?
I can probably get the case built at work for free.
Bjarne
Hi,

I haven’t ordered the parts for my kit yet, but I’d be interested in a case/panel if you’re making some wink

Cheers

Branko wrote:

How much did y'all end up spending in parts, excluding the case?
I can probably get the case built at work for free.
Branko
Will let you know!
Branko
This is what I'm thinking for the front panel. A mix of SOMA's design, with great help from the file JanneI posted (thanks!)



I can do different colors no problem.

I can't take any orders or anything yet but I will inform you all if I do proceed with a larger run than what I need.

It may take me a few weeks to get it done because I have to find press time and CNC time.

Also point out if I messed something up in the design, I was rushing a bit.

I might also make a design that brings the IN/OUT board to the top of the front panel(or the side to accommodate fixing it onto rails). Making a full case might be put aside in favor of that.
whyfarer
Looks great!
Bjarne
Looks great! I’m primarily interested in this kind of standalone design (like the original). applause
Cheers
Branko
Thanks! I'll do some more planning and design a full case. I can heatbend plastic but bending metal may be another matter.

EDIT: I just did a test on some 3mm alupanel by notching the back, and I'm getting a super solid 90 degree angle. A full case might be possible! It should be close to the original case. It will probably end up an inch wider.

EDIT2:

Here's a mockup of where I'm heading.

Purveyor2
Perfect. I’ll order if you decide to do a run.
Bjarne
I want it! w00t
stoplitewigglin
@Branko : this is looking very good, thanks for showing it. I was thinking of doing a similar case via Schaeffer, but laziness and lack of knowledge might get the best of me, so count me in if shipping to europe is ok.

Just minor things to point out IMO :
- Are the double frame lines between "HYPER LFO", "MOD DELAY" and "MOD DELAY", "DISTORTION" intentional ? JanneI fpd file and original design don't have these.
- Very minor : it seems that all newer designs of the lyra indicate "LFO FB CV" instead of "LFO CV"
- (ergonomics/labelling) "HOLD" and "PITCH" labels seem at the same distance (so right in the middle) of corresponding pots, thus not indicating clearly which pot the label refers to (sorry for the english). Labels could be put further up, but then it should be also done for "MOD" and "SHARP", which seem aligned to lower end of "LFO FB CV". Please see panel image from the kit from below
- JanneI used 2,5 mm thickness for panel and warned that it's almost too thick and for pots and switches. You mention 3mm, but maybe it's just for testing

I see that you've used the Soma logo for the front side. Maybe you already have it, but I can give you by PM (out of respect of Soma IP) the vectorized hq svg logo reverse-engineered from the manual.

stoplitewigglin
FYI, if you don't have a stock of caps and order only what's needed : there is a small mistake in the V2.6 (for main PCB v2.6) xls BOM from the kit documentation.

There are 16 0.1mf ceramic caps on the real main board and its .tif file, while the bom says 15.
So there are in total 17 Cer 0.1mf-50v (1 on the in/out board).

Sent an email to Soma about this a week ago and they acknowledged it, and should update the file on their website shortly.
secrethero303
I’m liking where you’re going with this case. I’d be in for one if you decide to do a run.
Purveyor2
Which pots are used for hold and pitch? Trying to get my order in (knob specific) while waiting for the kit.
pix
Are there any critical caps on the build? Osc timing caps or any electrolytics in the audio path?
rossgrady
stoplitewigglin wrote:
FYI, if you don't have a stock of caps and order only what's needed : there is a small mistake in the V2.6 (for main PCB v2.6) xls BOM from the kit documentation.

There are 16 0.1mf ceramic caps on the real main board and its .tif file, while the bom says 15.
So there are in total 17 Cer 0.1mf-50v (1 on the in/out board).

Sent an email to Soma about this a week ago and they acknowledged it, and should update the file on their website shortly.


On the 2.6 main board there are also footprints for one 2.2uF and two 4.7uF ceramic caps that don't show up in the 2.6 BOM currently on the website. I'm going to assume that I can just populate them per the silkscreen on the board, but I figured I'd ask if anyone else has asked Soma about those.

Beyond tiny things like that, so far this build is going really smoothly (albeit slowly!)
secrethero303
I noticed the same thing, as well as the other BOM errors mentioned earlier in this thread. I decided to just go ahead and populate everything per the silkscreen, however, I’m not far enough along to know if that was the right decision yet. Here’s hoping...
Alfrede
Hey everyone, i will get my kit in the days. In The BOM V2.6 I see that there are used some RV16A01F-20-15K-B100K stereo Potis, but i cant see them at mouser or i am just blind. Has anyone an Mouser Shopping List Link fot the Soma or for the poti at its own?

Thank you
Branko
stoplitewigglin wrote:
@Branko : this is looking very good, thanks for showing it. I was thinking of doing a similar case via Schaeffer, but laziness and lack of knowledge might get the best of me, so count me in if shipping to europe is ok.

Just minor things to point out IMO :
- Are the double frame lines between "HYPER LFO", "MOD DELAY" and "MOD DELAY", "DISTORTION" intentional ? JanneI fpd file and original design don't have these.
- Very minor : it seems that all newer designs of the lyra indicate "LFO FB CV" instead of "LFO CV"
- (ergonomics/labelling) "HOLD" and "PITCH" labels seem at the same distance (so right in the middle) of corresponding pots, thus not indicating clearly which pot the label refers to (sorry for the english). Labels could be put further up, but then it should be also done for "MOD" and "SHARP", which seem aligned to lower end of "LFO FB CV". Please see panel image from the kit from below
- JanneI used 2,5 mm thickness for panel and warned that it's almost too thick and for pots and switches. You mention 3mm, but maybe it's just for testing

I see that you've used the Soma logo for the front side. Maybe you already have it, but I can give you by PM (out of respect of Soma IP) the vectorized hq svg logo reverse-engineered from the manual.



I think the double frame is just something happening when I chose the stroke settings in Illustrator, I'll fix that.

I'll make it closer to the Lyra original design in terms of naming of the knobs.

If 3mm is too thick for a panel I might have issues, so I will see once I get into the testing phase. Or try a different material.
secrethero303
pirx wrote:



How secure did you find the right-angle headers to be after soldering them? I'm to the point in my build where I need to decide whether to go this route, or just solder the wires directly to the pcb.
pirx
The SMD headers seem pretty sturdy. I am using ribbon cable to connect the boards and there are no issues. Make sure you leave enough clearance between the boards (I am using 1.25" standoffs).

japes
So... this will be my first DIY build, and I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing. It looks like the vast majority of the assembly will be putting the right parts on the board where the part is printed, and just soldering in place. I'm going to start with that and look at the manual as I go to figure out how to wire the boards together and get the jacks etc. in place. I plan on building a wood case, since I don't have the tools for metal.

Other than this thread, what would be a good place to start reading to familiarize myself with what I'll need to know to put this together?
4floorsofwhores
japes wrote:
So... this will be my first DIY build, and I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing. It looks like the vast majority of the assembly will be putting the right parts on the board where the part is printed, and just soldering in place. I'm going to start with that and look at the manual as I go to figure out how to wire the boards together and get the jacks etc. in place. I plan on building a wood case, since I don't have the tools for metal.

Other than this thread, what would be a good place to start reading to familiarize myself with what I'll need to know to put this together?


Quite a first build. I'd recommend doing a couple of pedals first. It's an expensive board to mess up
wiperactive
4floorsofwhores wrote:
japes wrote:
So... this will be my first DIY build, and I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing. It looks like the vast majority of the assembly will be putting the right parts on the board where the part is printed, and just soldering in place. I'm going to start with that and look at the manual as I go to figure out how to wire the boards together and get the jacks etc. in place. I plan on building a wood case, since I don't have the tools for metal.

Other than this thread, what would be a good place to start reading to familiarize myself with what I'll need to know to put this together?


Quite a first build. I'd recommend doing a couple of pedals first. It's an expensive board to mess up


As 4floorsofwhores says, try something smaller and simpler first. I've been building small to medium sized projects on and off for many years and even now (after some years of SDIY inactivity) I find myself putting this project a little further back in the queue after first getting back into the DIY groove with some smaller Eurorack type projects.

There's tons out there on basic synth based DIY skills including troubleshooting and use of test and measuring equipment. From memory, the MFOS site springs to mind as a useful starting point for some general guidance on what to expect with a project like this

You would be unusually fortunate if this works first time to spec if it's a case of "... I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing."
japes
wiperactive wrote:
4floorsofwhores wrote:
japes wrote:
So... this will be my first DIY build, and I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing. It looks like the vast majority of the assembly will be putting the right parts on the board where the part is printed, and just soldering in place. I'm going to start with that and look at the manual as I go to figure out how to wire the boards together and get the jacks etc. in place. I plan on building a wood case, since I don't have the tools for metal.

Other than this thread, what would be a good place to start reading to familiarize myself with what I'll need to know to put this together?


Quite a first build. I'd recommend doing a couple of pedals first. It's an expensive board to mess up


As 4floorsofwhores says, try something smaller and simpler first. I've been building small to medium sized projects on and off for many years and even now (after some years of SDIY inactivity) I find myself putting this project a little further back in the queue after first getting back into the DIY groove with some smaller Eurorack type projects.

There's tons out there on basic synth based DIY skills including troubleshooting and use of test and measuring equipment. From memory, the MFOS site springs to mind as a useful starting point for some general guidance on what to expect with a project like this

You would be unusually fortunate if this works first time to spec if it's a case of "... I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing."


Noted. I'm going to start with a Kastle and get a feel for it. I just couldn't resist the Lyra and have been wanting to get into DIY, so I thought maybe I could make it work...
4floorsofwhores
japes wrote:
wiperactive wrote:
4floorsofwhores wrote:
japes wrote:
So... this will be my first DIY build, and I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing. It looks like the vast majority of the assembly will be putting the right parts on the board where the part is printed, and just soldering in place. I'm going to start with that and look at the manual as I go to figure out how to wire the boards together and get the jacks etc. in place. I plan on building a wood case, since I don't have the tools for metal.

Other than this thread, what would be a good place to start reading to familiarize myself with what I'll need to know to put this together?


Quite a first build. I'd recommend doing a couple of pedals first. It's an expensive board to mess up


As 4floorsofwhores says, try something smaller and simpler first. I've been building small to medium sized projects on and off for many years and even now (after some years of SDIY inactivity) I find myself putting this project a little further back in the queue after first getting back into the DIY groove with some smaller Eurorack type projects.

There's tons out there on basic synth based DIY skills including troubleshooting and use of test and measuring equipment. From memory, the MFOS site springs to mind as a useful starting point for some general guidance on what to expect with a project like this

You would be unusually fortunate if this works first time to spec if it's a case of "... I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing."


Noted. I'm going to start with a Kastle and get a feel for it. I just couldn't resist the Lyra and have been wanting to get into DIY, so I thought maybe I could make it work...


I wasn't trying to put you off. Its mostly a simple build but there's a lot of it and not cheap grin good luck
rossgrady
japes wrote:
Noted. I'm going to start with a Kastle and get a feel for it. I just couldn't resist the Lyra and have been wanting to get into DIY, so I thought maybe I could make it work...


I'm about 2/3 done with mine & thus far the biggest pain points have been sourcing some of the bits & pieces, and the weird surface mount solder points for all the mechanical parts, especially the switches, which are numerous & require some tedious multi-wire soldering.

It's nothing especially difficult or esoteric, just fiddly. I think my biggest concerns would be that with so many components, it'll be really hard to narrow down a problem area if, say, you flipped an electrolytic capacitor or had a cold solder joint on a single resistor or something.

And the way the pads are plated onto the PCBs, I'd also be a little worried that overheating or needing to remove/reinstall components could lead to peeling up a pad or a trace, moreso than some other boards I've worked on.

I would definitely suggest something like the Kastle as a good starting point. If you think you'll get into modular DIY, the various 3rd-party kits available of the Mutable Instruments module tester would be great to start with, because the board is fairly spread out, there are a variety of different types of components to attach, and you wind up with a super useful tool once you're done. Synthcube has some in stock, I think.

If you aren't heading in a modular direction, then I'd probably tackle a few more standalone noisemakers, such as the MFOS ones recommended, or the various little handheld kits that places like Synthrotek sell.

But if you decide to jump straight into the Lyra, this thread is the place to be!
Alfrede
Hi everybody, after a long search in the internet i found for me and hopefully for other people who wants to buid this DIY Project a very useful site which explains the meaning for the Alpha Potis. I do a long time electronics but in this project i heard the first time negative log potis. So here is the site:

Alpha Poti Types

For the TDA2822 i found my here:

TDA2822

The reichelt site has a lot of panasonic elkos, which i choose.

The CD4016 i found here too

CD4016

The PT2399 i found here: PT2399

Last but nor least for the DIN653 M3 i choose this site:

DIN 653 M3

I hope i could all help you a little bit. (The Sites are mostly from Germany because i am from there).

Greetz

Alfrede
Blake Smith
I think I did a silly thing and soldered in the 2 smd 4093 chips the wrong way around, however I'm not 100% sure as I'm not completely sure where the "1" pins are on these.

Before I start making a mess of things and trying to remove them, I'm wondering if anyone who knows better can take a quick look at this photo and confirm that I messed them up.

Thanks
VCOscillator
Blake Smith wrote:
I think I did a silly thing and soldered in the 2 smd 4093 chips the wrong way around, however I'm not 100% sure as I'm not completely sure where the "1" pins are on these.

Before I start making a mess of things and trying to remove them, I'm wondering if anyone who knows better can take a quick look at this photo and confirm that I messed them up.

Thanks



I had to look this up also - the 4903 should be the other way around same goes for 1-4.
philguzzo
Hey all I just got my Lyra board and sourced all my parts. Most of them, I found, can be had at Mouser and the rest I got from ebay and Amazon. I was debating about the 12 inch aluminum case Mouser sells by either Bud or Hammond, but I decided to go with this; It's a 12 inch birch painting panel, originally for painting but makes a great project case. It's exactly the right size for the build plus it's pretty. Then using the laminated inkejet printout method for the actual panel and controls in the center https://www.amazon.com/American-Easel-Cradled-Painting-Panel/dp/B000F9 467Y/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1536706018&sr=8-7&keywords=12+inch+birch+p anel

I got mine from the local art store for cheaper than the link. I also got an additional 5/8 inch one for the bottom which I plan to hinge together with the top. The only difficulty will be installing the jacks since the sides are so thick. I'm contemplating installing them out the top, or drilling out the holes on back with a larger drill, going partway through the back side, then a smaller hole for the jack in the center. If anyone wants a BOM from Mouser I can probably post it...if I can figure how that is.

Also Wilco farm stores, for those of you that have one nearby, has some interesting parts that could be used for the contacts. They had some a brass battery terminals in the lamp parts section of their bits and bobs, and nuts and bolts isles. I thought also some brass or chrome acorn/dome nuts could also work for the contacts. The holes in the controls pcb are large enough to acomadate a larger sized bolt than M3, Or some knurled battery terminal nuts, which most hardware stores carry could be used.

Anyway here is my mockup of my future Lyra for your perusal and comments.
philguzzo
If you were interested these are what the Knurled thumb screw battery terminals look simalar to from Wilco, and I see several varieties can be had from ebay as well. I beleive mine were also 8/32 size but with slightly larger heads.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-Brass-Knurled-Head-Thumb-Screw-Machine- Screws-6-32-QTY-25/401251588927?var=670857619907&hash=item5d6c755b3f:m  :maAEln7H5MpRfVnHE4nfwpQ#

Hope my ramblings have helped.
stevenclements
philguzzo wrote:

If anyone wants a BOM from Mouser I can probably post it...if I can figure how that is.


That would be awesome.

I think you can share the cart from within mouser smile

https://www.mouser.ca/Tools/ProjectCartSharing/

THANKS applause
philguzzo
Attached you can find the Mouser BOM that I ordered. I cannot guarantee there aren't mistakes so you should do your own due diligence.

The switches I ordered from ebay. You can get them from Mouser and Amazon, but they were more expensive. I got a pack of the MS 202 DPDT switches for 17 bucks! It was from China, but got here faster than some of the domestic things I ordered.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50-pcs-High-Quality-6-Pin-DPDT-ON-ON-2-Positi on-Mini-Toggle-Switches-MTS-202-Red/152407195011?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEB IDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I am planning on using them for the single pole throw switches as well to save some money, plus have some left over for other projects on the bench.

The DPDT MS 203 on-off-on switches are also from the same Chinese supplier but actually came domestically. Still very affordable.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-6-Pin-DPDT-ON-OFF-ON-3-Position-Mini-T oggle-Switches-MTS-203-US-Stock/152427525763?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX% 3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The C100K reverse log stereo pots I had to order from china as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6pcs-ALPHA-C100K-Dual-Stereo-Potentiometer-Lo g-Taper-pots-Knurled-shaft-push-on/253102364328?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBI DX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Mouser did have some, but they were Bourns 9mm instead of 7mm and I didn't want to dremel the board, but it could be done... if you were desperate or wary of stuff from China...

Also the A100k stereo log pots were from ebay, they were domestic but expensive...:(

https://www.ebay.com/itm/A100K-Ohm-Audio-Dual-Gang-Potentiometer-PCB-M ount-16mm-Alpha-Brand-USA-Seller/302359721877?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX %3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Beyond that, like I mentioned above, I'm using some knurled battery screws from Wilco/Ace hardware for the pads. They are larger than specified, but the board is drilled large enough to accommodate them.

If you need the DIN 653 pads, I found a couple places that supply them, they are out there, they just can be pricey. I left the shoulder washers I found at Mouser to accommodate them on the BOM, but I probably won't need them for my build.

https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/products/2.2-Tensioning-clamping-with-ha ndles/DIN-653-Flat-knurled-screws-Steel

The m3 bolts washers and flat head bolts were also from the hardware store and I spent way too much on them, but you can buy a big box of hardware at Harbour Freight that has all you need for 18 dollars.

The last two things were the TDA2822M and the PT2399, which strangely Mouser did not have,(they practically have everything) so I sourced them from ebay at a premium.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-TDA2822M-DUAL-LOW-VOLTAGE-POWER-AMPLIFIER -IC-dip-Socket-USA-SELLER/132490912509?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_ trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-PTC-PT2399-Echo-Audio-Processor-Guitar-I C-DIP-16-New-IC/291530714793?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p20 57872.m2749.l2649

And here's the aluminum case from Mouser. It looks good, but I chose to go with a wood box instead. I hope I don't regret it. I may still get this.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/563-AC-1424
and the bottom plate cause you gotta order both.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/563-BPA-1527

Also I'm using some cut to size standard headers and connectors that are common to the Arduino world and some 16 conductor ribbon cable I got from amazon for the cableing between the boards.

I think that's about it. It took better than a week and having to cross check the list several times to figure this out and like I said above, I can't guarantee there aren't mistakes or things ordered that are wrong. It's the joy of DIY ain't it?
philguzzo
Here's a link to a Mouser Cart.

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=c92a 72232c
4floorsofwhores
philguzzo wrote:
Here's a link to a Mouser Cart.

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=c92a 72232c

Thanks so much for this
philguzzo
On the cart I posted I mistakenly have nylon standoff's instead of brass ones. I'm sure either will work, just seems the brass is sturdier.
Purveyor2
About to start my build, have a question about the knobs and switches. The holes in the pcb seem to have rings of solder pads, are these superfluous? Or need a tack of solder for ground?

My instinct is to ignore them...
philguzzo
I haven't started my build yet either, but as far as I can tell they are just pads connected to ground. I don't think you have to do anything special except put your control or switch there. The fact that the body of the control is in contact with the pad will ground it. If you look at the pictures of the insides of the lyra there is nothing special going on with the pads.
Purveyor2
Cool - thanks.
shiftr
I found also 2 1uF electrolytic caps on the PCB not mentioned in the BOM.
(on the pcb as 1m)
rossgrady
VCOscillator wrote:
Blake Smith wrote:
I think I did a silly thing and soldered in the 2 smd 4093 chips the wrong way around, however I'm not 100% sure as I'm not completely sure where the "1" pins are on these.

Before I start making a mess of things and trying to remove them, I'm wondering if anyone who knows better can take a quick look at this photo and confirm that I messed them up.

Thanks



I had to look this up also - the 4903 should be the other way around same goes for 1-4.


Yep -- with SMD ICs if there isn't a dot or a notch then the pin-1 side will be beveled -- you can see the angle to the casing in this photo.
rossgrady
philguzzo wrote:
Attached you can find the Mouser BOM that I ordered. I cannot guarantee there aren't mistakes so you should do your own due diligence.

...

I think that's about it. It took better than a week and having to cross check the list several times to figure this out and like I said above, I can't guarantee there aren't mistakes or things ordered that are wrong. It's the joy of DIY ain't it?


Thanks for the detailed list!

For ppl in the US or Asia, Tayda has quite a few of the things that you sourced from eBay (they also sell on eBay so you may have gotten some stuff from them that way) & their prices are way better than Mouser, although not as cheap as some of the crazy-cheap stuff you can get from China on eBay. My impression, which may or may not be accurate, is that Tayda is about as cheap as you can get without crossing over into the land of "hmm this part may or may not be counterfeit" smile
Alfrede
I just make a photo where the IC is not soldered but in the correct Position and Pin 1 marked

[/img]
philguzzo
rossgrady wrote:


Thanks for the detailed list!

For ppl in the US or Asia, Tayda has quite a few of the things that you sourced from eBay (they also sell on eBay so you may have gotten some stuff from them that way) & their prices are way better than Mouser, although not as cheap as some of the crazy-cheap stuff you can get from China on eBay. My impression, which may or may not be accurate, is that Tayda is about as cheap as you can get without crossing over into the land of "hmm this part may or may not be counterfeit" smile


Thanks for that info. Wish I would have figured that out before I got my parts ordered! Good to know for future projects, as of know I've got most of my parts on the way....I hope...smile
4floorsofwhores
Alfrede wrote:
I just make a photo where the IC is not soldered but in the correct Position and Pin 1 marked

[/img]


Yes that's right
secrethero303
Finally completed my build! applause

Alfrede
Hey congrats secrethero how long do you need for all?
secrethero303
Alfrede wrote:
Hey congrats secrethero how long do you need for all?


I just started it last week. Took a while to collect up all the parts, but the build itself went pretty quickly.
Alfrede
I can agree it is going good by the hand but in some resistor values i have in the BOM more than i can see in the PCB is it by you the same?
secrethero303
Alfrede wrote:
I can agree it is going good by the hand but in some resistor values i have in the BOM more than i can see in the PCB is it by you the same?


Yes there were a few resistors that didn’t match the BOM, same with capacitors. I just followed the silkscreen printed on the PCB and all was fine.
Purveyor2
secrethero303 wrote:
Finally completed my build! applause



Looks great. How did you acquire the panel? I planned on a similar enclosure unless one is made for purchase.
woodster
I've just today received the PCB set for the LYRA8.
I already have lots of the parts, and most of the outstanding stuff in Mouser and Tayda baskets.
I do have a few stragglers that I'm yet to settle on, so though I'd ask the Muff hive mind for opinions...
Does anybody have any thoughts on the rather large 0.1mF 160v CCCP ? Would a Styrene cap work well here, If not does anybody have any part numbers for an appropriate part ?

I was also pondering which PSU to use, and the associated DC input and Power switch. They would obviously depend on the casing, which leads me to ask if the mooted enclosure mentioned earlier in this thread is still happening ?
Branko
I haven't begun to build the kit yet, but hopefully I'll get something done within the next couple weeks.
Purveyor2
I grabbed one of these. Not done with build yet...
Bjarne
I haven’t bought all parts yet but I think it’s worth pointing out that the BOM says that this cap has to be higher than 25v, so 160v is not needed.
Cheers

woodster wrote:

Does anybody have any thoughts on the rather large 0.1mF 160v CCCP ? Would a Styrene cap work well here, If not does anybody have any part numbers for an appropriate part ?
woodster
Yeah, that's why I was thinking a Styrene might be OK, just wondering, as the footprint is pretty huge.
Branko
Am I way off on thinking this one would work fine? Got that in a Tayda order without checking TOO carefully.

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/8933-dup-0-1uf-250v-105c-axial-polypr opylene-flat-capacitor-jfgd.html
secrethero303
Purveyor2 wrote:
secrethero303 wrote:
Finally completed my build! applause



Looks great. How did you acquire the panel? I planned on a similar enclosure unless one is made for purchase.


I made the file using FrontDesign and ordered from FrontPanelExpress. I’ve attached the file here in case anyone else wants to use it.
Purveyor2
^ thanks
Branko
I ordered a sheet of 2mm aluminum, and for now I will probably just get panels made. However, I will do some tests out of cardboard and plan out a full case. If that works out well I will use the rest of the sheet and end up with a few cases to offer here.

Again, nothing concrete, but at least I'm gearing up to do something.
Bjarne
Take your time. I’ll still be interested.
Cheers

Branko wrote:

Again, nothing concrete, but at least I'm gearing up to do something.
t3hh
philguzzo wrote:
Here's a link to a Mouser Cart.

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=c92a 72232c


hei, thanks for sharing, thats huge time saver. I'm preparing my order, any additional suggestions?

I'm also planning some simple mods like poting the release time and vibrato frequency but I will think about it later. Also, I'm planning to use banana connectors for CV and Gate.
pix
I'm about to order the screws, any opinions on M3 vs M4? M4 seem like they might get really close...

also it's unclear which ones are used in the original versions...they're so close they look they might be the 12mm M4 ones
VCOscillator
I ordered these:

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/knurled-thumb-screws-din-653/400828-SKTT-M3- 10-A1

M3 x 10mm - they fit perfectly, you just need to add screw insulators:

UKRS

These are 4mm but I trimmed them and added some nylon washers under the front panel so that I could screw them tight and they feel extremely solid.
secrethero303
VCOscillator wrote:
I ordered these:

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/knurled-thumb-screws-din-653/400828-SKTT-M3- 10-A1

M3 x 10mm - they fit perfectly, you just need to add screw insulators:

UKRS

These are 4mm but I trimmed them and added some nylon washers under the front panel so that I could screw them tight and they feel extremely solid.


I used the same thumb screws and they are perfect. To keep them off the panel, I used TO-3 transistor bushings which worked great. Then, to keep the pcb from touching the panel, I just used a 12”x12” sheet of Kapton film and cut the holes for the pots and switches.
Branko
Made some panels at work today, turned out nice. UV print with white ink. I still have to hit it with a clear coat, but it's already pretty scratch resistant! Anyone have any suggestions on what I should coat it with?



Many thanks to secrethero303 for the FrontPanel files! I inserted part of my design in and it worked out perfectly.

Also, considering I can print directly to the aluminum sheet, different color combos/designs are a breeze.



I'm getting a quote on a dozen pre drilled sheets, and over this weekend I will be coating the panels I have and testing scratch resistance, which should be solid.
tndhrr
Hey guys, I'm almost done with my kit but there's something on the In/Out board (v2.4) that's confusing me. It looks like a rectangle of conductor with two holes in it, going across/around the trace for the EXT IN from the jack to the ribbon socket. In the pictures of the completed synth it looks like something is in those holes but I can't see what, and there's nothing in the schematics or instructions? What am I supposed to do here? Thanks
pix
I'm almost done with the main voice board (v2.6) and found some differences compared to the BOM, namely

6x 4.7uF electrolytic instead of 5x

1x 2.2uF ceramic/metal film that is not in the BOM

2x 4.7uF ceramic/metal film that is not in the BOM

are these values correct? can anyone confirm this for me?

thanks!
VCOscillator
I just finished my build in the last few days, I made small PCBs to install all of the suggested mods in the 'tweaks' file.
I built my LYRA into a 6u rack mountable enclosure and wanted to use symbols rather than text to keep with the spirit of improvisation and built it as a large aluminium PCB with black solder mask, white silkscreen and gold ENIG for the details. The panel symbols were inspired by Mungo & Make Noise panels to fit with my system which is mostly black and gold and the 6u left enough space to install:

24 pots controlling envelope Attack, Release (Fast) & Release (Slow)
Slide switches for Distortion LPF, Delay LPF
8 x slide switches to select frequency range per voice
8 x potentiometers controlling vibrato frequency per voice

Everything went smoothly and all mods are functioning correctly Rockin' Banana!

I made an instagram page with some pics: Link

I will upload some videos of the mods in the next week or so when I get some time but this has been a highly enjoyable project!



Branko
God DAMN. Nice.
pix
we're not worthy
Bjarne
Nice!!! w00t

Branko wrote:


Also, considering I can print directly to the aluminum sheet, different color combos/designs are a breeze.

secrethero303
Wow, very nice!
pirx
Branko - beautiful panels!

VCOscillator - amazing build!!!
Bjarne
VCOscillator yes, that’s an impressive build. Which of the mods are your favorites?
Alfrede
Hey VCOslliator, do you share or sell your MODS? The Picture and i believe the sound is fantastic. As we Say in German "Hut ab"
mutronic
incredible work!
electricanada
Beautiful job. Shame to hang it in a rack though. This instrument begs to be held in your lap and caressed.
pix
Almost done with my lyra just want to confirm that the PSU is wired to the DC++ and DC-- connectors of the in/out board.

this is right, right?

just making sure I don't Dead Banana
secrethero303
pix wrote:
Almost done with my lyra just want to confirm that the PSU is wired to the DC++ and DC-- connectors of the in/out board.

this is right, right?

just making sure I don't Dead Banana


Yes, that is right.
Master G
pix wrote:
I'm almost done with the main voice board (v2.6) and found some differences compared to the BOM, namely

6x 4.7uF electrolytic instead of 5x

1x 2.2uF ceramic/metal film that is not in the BOM

2x 4.7uF ceramic/metal film that is not in the BOM

are these values correct? can anyone confirm this for me?

thanks!


Hey all, 50% done with the built of LYRA-8

Confirm the discrepancies with the BOM:
· 4 x 47uf EL CAP (total 32, not 28)
· 2 x 10uf CERAMIC CAP (not included in BOM)
· 3 x 2.2uf CERAMIC CAP (not included in BOM)
· 1 x 1.8nf CERAMIC CAP (not included in BOM, 1.2nf is in the BOM that is not found on PCB)
· 8 x 4.7uf CERAMIC CAP (this one not sure about how many, do this list post fact)

May be I misunderstand the PCB or/and some Metal Film may substitute Ceramic... but schematically it looks like this.

Hope I will get the sound once I am finished))

Good luck to all of you;) Rockin' Banana!
Alfrede
Hey Master G, one question which Version Number is on your PCB printed, in my Version 2.6 i have 0.22mMP printed and 1,2nF printed and 2,2mF for an electr. electrolytic capacitor. I later took pictures of them.

VCOscillator
Thanks for the nice comments w00t

Bjarne wrote:
VCOscillator yes, that’s an impressive build. Which of the mods are your favorites?


Thanks Bjarne! My favourites are probably the voice range switches or the vibrato frequency pots, they feel like they expand patch options quite a lot - the voice range switches are very nice in fm mode to quickly explore a lot of different frequency ranges but I find all of them very useful so far.


Alfrede wrote:
Hey VCOslliator, do you share or sell your MODS? The Picture and i believe the sound is fantastic. As we Say in German "Hut ab"
]

If it is OK with Vlad I would be happy to upload and share the Gerbers for the expander PCBs. The mods are pretty easy to install, especially if you are building from scratch, just quite a lot of hookup wire to manage.

I installed pin headers in all of the mod destinations in the 'tweaks' file and ran wires from the little pcbs to the main board. The only slightly tricky part was sourcing slide switches that were small enough to fit the panel while also being compatible with the height of Alpha 9mm pots. The closest I could find were a little short in height so the PCB needed to be secured to the front panel with both the pot nuts and a 10mm spacer and then soldered from behind the PCB as the legs were just long enough to reach the boards. Also the footprint for some of the larger value film caps that I used had to be installed on the back of the little pcbs as I used 5mm footprints for all of the caps.
stoplitewigglin
VCOscillator now that is a thing of beauty, amazing design on the front panel ! also kudos for doing the mods SlayerBadger!

I wasn't even considering the mods, and was ready to order panel from schaeffer, but after seeing your post ...
If you can share your pcb files and component specs, there's going to be some desoldering, wiring and redesigning on front panel designer, can't let my already sweet sounding lyra without these.

By the way, I've done 2 fpd files going from secrethero303 file (how did you get the vectorized updated panel ? It seems you've got a file that was hanging out on their website, judging from its filename).
The upper connections are now in the same style as controls (exported from manual), and I've ajusted the layout relative to holes, not sure if it's right but it seems more centered.

2 versions : black and white layout :





[/img]
secrethero303
I had pulled it from their site, here: https://somasynths.com/lyra-8-presets/

The third link is a pdf to use for documenting presets, that I was able to pull into inkscape and edit out the unwanted portions.
secrethero303
whoops, double post
stoplitewigglin
secrethero303 wrote:
I had pulled it from their site, here: https://somasynths.com/lyra-8-presets/

The third link is a pdf to use for documenting presets, that I was able to pull into inkscape and edit out the unwanted portions.


Ok, thank you for the info, I didn't see that section on their website. And to think I was trying the hard way, manually aligning vertically and horizontally, "upper" effects section and "sources" lower section from the manual PDF.

Anyway, thanks for your for work on this fpd file.

If I'm able to find time for it, I would like to do some sort of a "DIY tips" document from all the data we've collectively gathered (correct BOM errors, housing cases and panels, mods, general building/ordering/supplier tips etc....)
Collaborative google doc files would be appropriate for this, will try to look into this ...

Thanks everybody for your feedback on building this wonderfully designed synth, really one of a kind. Also biggest thanks to Vlad of course ! w00t
Purveyor2
I’m lame with wiring power supplies without instructions. I’ve got a few 2.1mm jacks, should I be wiring center positive or negative? What brick do you recommend? What about adding an on/off switch...
Thanks
secrethero303
Wiring should be center positive. I used a DPDT switch for on/off, to make/break the connection between both wires on the DC jack. For a brick, I think they recommended 300mA or above.
Purveyor2
Thanks. It’s alive! Though I’ve got to troubleshoot the distortion mix, sound cuts out when going CW. Probably my wiring.
Purveyor2
Found a 100uf electrolytic cap installed backward in Distortion circuit. Replaced and reference voltage normalized to 5.8-6.4 though when both pcbs are connected that voltage drops to mV. This is in the corner with ground on the spacer hole. Also, after the correction, the 5.8 test point right next to the 6v test point is now super low. Never had any smoke or anything, just the distortion knob not doing anything. No difference in function after the change, everything seems to work except distortion.

So did I damage some neighboring components? I’m tempted to rebuild the entire section.

Thanks for any advice.
Master G
Alfrede wrote:
Hey Master G, one question which Version Number is on your PCB printed, in my Version 2.6 i have 0.22mMP printed and 1,2nF printed and 2,2mF for an electr. electrolytic capacitor. I later took pictures of them.



Hey Alfred!
Thank for your reply)
Now I understand some discrepancies) It is simply the older PCB Ver. I have V2.2. SO yes, it is a bit different from V2.6. Got confirmation from Vlad already.
piece Rockin' Banana!
tndhrr
Hey guys, just finished my kit and it doesn't really work. Never done anything other than simple circuit bending before so I didn't even expect it to make noise.... I'm gonna outline what are probably really stupid beginner mistakes, any help is appreciated. I'm probably just going to pay somebody who knows what they're doing to fix it, I really only got the DIY kit because I thought it would save money and Vlad was out of prebuilts at the time

1. all the voices leak when Hold is turned to 0, at low volume. Voice 2 leaks at full volume. I already tightened the sensors.

2. The delay circuit doesn't do anything. I can sort of hear something as I turn the mix knob but it's definitely not the delays. I wore a static bracelet, is this just a dead chip issue?

3. I hear humming noises whenever I touch a knob or switch. This sounds like a grounding issue? I used a PVC enclosure because I don't have a CNC to mill an aluminum one. Was that a bad idea?

4. the Pitch 1234 knob cuts the audio from that group when I turn it CCW

5. Headphone output doesn't work, there's an extremely loud hum and you can just barely hear the synth. Also a grounding issue? I don't think I understand what grounding is to be honest. Not my highest priority to fix but it's the first thing I noticed. Regular output seems fine, so does the input. Haven't tested the CV because I don't have anything that sends CV.

6. The timbre is ass. Thin and reedy, not like the demos at all. The only time I didn't follow the directions exactly was when they asked for a vintage cap, I don't live in Russia so I don't know how I'm supposed to get a soviet capacitor. I used a new one with the appropriate stats from Digikey. Did I fuck myself on this?


If anybody can point me in the right direction on any of these I'd be super grateful, this has been such a frustrating build and I want it done so I can use the table I'm building it on to actually play music on, I haven't been able to jam with my other gear in months. very frustrating
pix
take hi res pictures of the boards and post them here. The problem is not from the PVC case though.
Purveyor2
The cap circled white was originally backward. Distortion circuit not working. Everything else is good. Replaced the cap. No change. Voltage at test point starts at 12v and rapidly drops to 1.5 v or so when not connected to control board. Once connected to control board test gives mV only. All other test points are great. Wiring and control board appear to be fine. It’s the tl074 isn’t it?
tndhrr
here's all the pictures I could take before my camera broke: https://imgur.com/a/kzHXQ44
found the 1-2 hold switch and the total FB switch weren't soldered correctly so I fixed those, re-seated the delay chips... now voice 2 stopped leaking at full volume (Still leaks quietly), Voice 1 doesn't work at all except for faint leaking, the delay still doesn't work and now the external input doesn't work. If anyone is in Colorado and wants to make some money fixing this let me know, I don't know what else I can do here because I don't have a multimeter or anything besides a soldering iron
Purveyor2
What voltage should one be getting on the vCC+ And vCC- pins? I’m getting 12v and essentially zero on the neg. using 12v 1A center + switching power supply.
vasiliy_valerevich
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