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Buchla 100 system diy build
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10  Next [all]
Author Buchla 100 system diy build
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
Nice work, APETECHNOLOGY -- I just wanted to say that your etched and tinned PCBs look great. I make all my own boards as well, and I use Liquid Tin

thank you for the kind words,
for tinning boards i have been using this method lately.
Want an easy sequencer design,this is it!
The schematic above is right out of the "Terrrence Thomas" book!No mention is made,so I
will point that out and give "due-credit"! I am seriously considering making a "discrete (Buchla-model #123 sequencer)",but I must admit that this schematic gives' me pause.It can(rather-easily) be made to mimic a "Buchla-123",without,the extra (200,or so) parts',that the 123 entails'! This would work directly from a (140 pulse generator),or a standard (555-timer) and it would all work on a (+15v./ground)system! Something to think about,for the ( DIY) people on here? The one thing that this will probably not do,is run the (slide-in lights') that the 123 uses',due to the (extra-current-consumption)? woah
This is the (touch-plate -controller) that I plan on building for my modular. The schematic calls for PN3566s' and PN4916s',You could probably use 2N3906s',for the PNP positions',but I suspect you would have to use (higher-current-transistors') than 2N3904s',for the PN3566 positions'.But the 2N3904s' might work(I have not (personally) tried them)?Attributed (again)to "Terrence Thomas"!Thought some of you might find this interesting? hmmm..... Forgot to mention that you would have to use a J201,or 2n4339,for the "E-101".(they really don't exist,anymore,unless you are willing to pay $18 for NOS,if you can find one?)
go moogboy010!

with one are you going to build first?

as for the (slide-in lights') that the 123 uses
you can just gut out the lamp holding bits, leaves just the plastic to house the led's.

thumbs up
I was thinking the same thing,Apetechnology!There is a company that makes'(l.e.d.s' )into a (slide-light-fixture),so that they will slide right-into the housing!!! I think they are asking a big-buck for them?
I will probably do the touch-plate first!
The ('123') is going to be a big-project(for me,anyway)ha!
Good luck on your face-plates' and builds'!
Hi Peake,I got the 144 to work! It's peanut butter jelly time!
I made a really (em-bare-assing )mistake.For some reason,
(Beyond my comprehension), I added the second(+15volt) trace,to the
Matched pair(TI-122) Duuuuhhh! While that is in the ( CBS schematic),obviously you found that error,years' ago!Ha! I thought you were saying to add that?
(magical thinking,on my part)!!! I tried a (J175) and that works',but when I put in the (U147),
the square-wave got "really sweet"(5cps.-20Khtz)!Amazing (smooth,hollow)sound!
I have that position(socketed),so I will try several FETs' in there and let you and others' know what I find.I have found-out one thing; The matched pair need to be high-gain.While (low-hfe-170-250) may work,I used a set of (TIS-97s'),with an hfe in the (505-range)!!!! Possibly why the (U147) is working so well?So,I guess I will have to nix the (Terrence Thomas)generator,after all.Ha!
Thanks' for all of your help and good advice! we're not worthy
Do you have a corrected schematic? Would be interesting to have an annotated one which corrects the errors in the original schematic.
Well,this is not very-elegant, but this is how I corrected the schematic! lol
I guess you could do a( white-out) and scan the original-corrected?
Cheerz!Picture file
This is Peakes' board,from his Ebolatone blog.The art-work,for the Ebolatone-144,is corrected.I was the one who(rather-foolishly), added the extra traces'!
Looking at this build,you will notice that the matched-pair of (TIS-97s') are facing the same direction as the (4916s').If you are using (2N3904s') for the matched-pair,they should be facing the other way,like the( PN3565)-NPNs'.The (TIS-97s') collector and Emitter are reversed,from a (2N3904)! Both of the (U147s') are working!(amazing)! woah
moogboy010 wrote:
Well,this is not very-elegant, but this is how I corrected the schematic! lol
I guess you could do a( white-out) and scan the original-corrected?
Picture file

I think I started capturing the schematic in Eagle, a very long time ago, let's see if I can find them.
That would be of (great)help to anybody building a 144!
Thank you! thumbs up

Found it, didn't have the values in there, but added them, removed a big mistake, and shuffled some components to hopefully make it a bit better to read. Still a little bit of a mess though.
Apparently I was planning a board, the first transistor pair is BCM847bs, probably would change that, as I can no longer handsolder those.
Thanks' for posting,Jarno!
Glad to be of service w00t Let me know if anyone spots a mistake.

Also did a layout:

Right, "huge thumbnail" option in imgur is the way to go.
Good news moogboy! Yes, I built PCB 100% per the schematic and figured out that trace to +15V offset the hell out of it...

Is your 10R on the top section burned? Where the three trimpots are...

Jarno, that's awesome eek!
well done moogboy010
thank you Jarno!
and yes Peake, i wondered about that resistor earlier today as well!


Teachers strike today, and I can only take the kids to daycare in half an hour or so, so gave the board another spin. smile
Pots and jacks are at 0.8", and are in the same order as on the Buchla panel (so from the top down, AM, FM, frequency control). Board dimensions are 2.8" x 3".
By the way, I used 2N5116 because that was the closest part I have in the Eagle libraries, it should be 2N5020, unless someone has different experiences (is it crucial to have the right JFET there?). As mentioned I used "BC" transistors, which are reversed from 2N3904/2N3906 I believe. Not sure about the pinout of the transistors you used Peake, were they CBE or EBC or something totally different?
By the way, if there's circuitry someone would like to add, to create extra functionality, like saw output or VC PWM, there is some room on the board. Let me know, we'll take this a bit further smile
HI Peake,
I'm working on the 158A.I etched and drilled the board,today.
Have started to populate with resistors',then other components'!
Yeah,that damn-trace that I added ,on the 144,took me forever to figure-out!Ha! Duh!
I think I realized,when I built the 140,that the oscillator section worked so easy!Ha!
Anyway,the 144 sounds' great.I have to finish attaching the switch and modulation-pots'.
That 10 ohm got hot,yes! I installedan fet(wrong) a while back.Did not fry the fet,,or the 10ohm,but they got very warm! woah
Jarno, Pre55ure earlier posted about a FET which works fine, hope he chimes in.

The original transistors Buchla used had CBE pinouts with dome-shaped bodies, forget the case style name. I used modern PN versions with EBC pinouts excepting the 3391A which is ECB.

[img]Buchla 144 1D3b Etch and Parts by mpeake, on Flickr[/img]

The reason the latest version has a large ground plane between the oscillator pair is that I experienced some phase locking at unison tunings.
Thanks Mike,

I did see the mentioning of the 2N5460, but the other P-channel FET has a bigger case, so I am assuming that if the bigger (older) FET fits the other one will as well.
Need to do a bit more studying on the 2n3391a, I mean flipping a transistor is easy enough, but that footprint is quite different, ECB, bonkers.
[quote="fluxmonkey"]as peake mentioned, a number of folks (including myself) have used the random generator based on the easel design for work-alikes. it is pseudo-random, based on recirculating shift registers, PCB available here:

Thanks for pointing me to your stuff. I was just about to ask if anyone had boards available. We have a circuit mill, but I refuse to touch it, and I've always sent my boards out to be made (nothing this complex) and you have to get 10+ which I don't need. Happy to purchase off someone who's done the heavy lifting.
I believe ECB is standard Japanese transistor pinout, or at least is common. BASS!

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