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Buchla 100 system diy build
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Buchla 100 system diy build
APETECHNOLOGY
hello, i am going to chronicle every aspect of my adventure in building a Buchla 100 system.
i am building from the information found at

http://ebolatone.blogspot.com

i am starting with the etching of the pcbs .
i have never made pcbs, this was the first time.
so i find it interesting...
APETECHNOLOGY


i first printed out the art on transparency film.
i alined the art onto presensitized kinsten pcb material.
i then exposed it to uv for 5 minutes
i then developed the pcb in the kinsten developer bath.
APETECHNOLOGY


this shows the developed art.
APETECHNOLOGY


this shows the etching tank .
i etched in 2 parts hydrogen peroxide to 1 part hydrochloric acid.
APETECHNOLOGY


this shows the etched pcbs .
APETECHNOLOGY


i used small drill bits for drilling, i bought this set from eBay.i was very happy with it.
APETECHNOLOGY


this shows the drilling, i am using my second milling machine "not so nice" for the drilling. the fiberglass can be rather corrosive.
APETECHNOLOGY


this is how i checked to make sure i drilled all the holes.i held it up to a light.
APETECHNOLOGY


the last process after drilling i did was to treat the boards with liquid tin.
super creepy toxic stuff. gloves are highly recommended for all these processes involving liquid chemicals!
APETECHNOLOGY


this was the late boy to the party,
thank you Mike Peake!
ok, now to the nightmare of sourcing all the parts... yikes woah
Peake
Have fun! Note that the 158 and 144 transistor pads are a bit close and it's easy to do solder bridges so check them after building with a bright light behind the board (thanks Tim Stinchcombe for that one!) Your etches came out well, good stuff.

Also note that defluxing with alcohol etc. can begin to remove the liquid tin so use water clean solder if possible, I still have to try that.

Also a slightly larger drill bit (1mm or so) for the 106 and 156 PCBs where the pots mount on the PCB for the two side pins, as well as for all wiring connections, allows a tinned wire to go through the PCB with ease.

Note on the image of the 144 with the light behind it to check for undrilled holes, the lower right corner, the horizontal trace above where the D case 15uF cap goes on the trace for the large output tantalum (+ symbol); you can see a broken trace. This is one of the kickers in debugging; a slight trace break can pass some voltage but not all. I check against a bright light after developing the exposed PCBs for breaks and use a Sharpie to fill in any issues prior to etching. Check again with a bright light behind it after etching. Just jumper such areas with a clipped resistor lead or use the lead of a stuffed component in the path to do so. Check all of your PCBs for breaks.

There is so much that can go wrong in the multiple stages of doing positive resist PCBs. You did really well.
RadioTelefonik
Looking good so far! I'm interested in doing a 100-series build eventually, so you can be sure that I'll keep my eyes on this thread!
Peake
J201 -can- be used to replace 2N4339; note that smallbear currently has them for less than a dollar while Mouser has them for $3.30 each.
Jarno
+1 on checking for trace breaks and shorts, I had a triple low-pass gate that I spent a lot of time debugging on, only to leave it in a bin for a year, and then noticing a tiny spot where the copper between traces wasn't completely etched away.......
I used the layout from Mark Verbos' old website, and it has a few spots where traces run close to the outside edge (which is ground, IIRC).
APETECHNOLOGY
"Note on the image of the 144 with the light behind it to check for undrilled holes, the lower right corner, the horizontal trace above where the D case 15uF cap goes on the trace for the large output tantalum (+ symbol); you can see a broken trace. This is one of the kickers in debugging; a slight trace break can pass some voltage but not all. I check against a bright light after developing the exposed PCBs for breaks and use a Sharpie to fill in any issues prior to etching. Check again with a bright light behind it after etching. Just jumper such areas with a clipped resistor lead or use the lead of a stuffed component in the path to do so. Check all of your PCBs for breaks. "

i dropped the ball Peake, the whole point of that picture was to circle the broken trace! thanks again for all your hard work and guidance on this project.
thumbs up
APETECHNOLOGY


Peake, this is a picture of the 410 quad mixer from Ebolatone,
i am confused about the orientation of the 2n4339?
it would seem that the left hand side should be reversed.
i had to use heat shrink and some mechanical gymnastics to make 2 of them work.
in the photo, both sources go to the right on the top.
also what is the value for the potentiometers ?10k linear?
thanks !
Eric the Red
Wow - self etching PCBs looks like a chemically nasty process. This is truly an awesome build, keep up the good work.
Peake
Pots are 10K linear. The FET's Gate goes to R6, a 10K resistor. G is the unlabel'd pin in the center facing to the inside of the PCB. G is the one which matters. Note that J201 can usually be DSG pinout. If you know the manufacturer of your FET you can find the datasheet. If not, the Idss check can reveal it.

https://rubidium.dyndns.org/~magnus/synths/companies/buchla/Buchla_410 0_8_200.jpg
Jarno
Eric the Red wrote:
Wow - self etching PCBs looks like a chemically nasty process. This is truly an awesome build, keep up the good work.


Haven't tried tin plating myself, but etching really isn't that bad, I used toner transfer rather than silkscreening though.

Drilling is a little bit bad, that dust is something you need to not breathe in.
Laughing
I've used toner transfer as well, but the print quality was really shit, unfortunately. I know the darkroom developer method exists as well, but what else besides that? Doesn't the darkroom method depend on a good print, too?
APETECHNOLOGY
Laughing wrote:
I've used toner transfer as well, but the print quality was really shit, unfortunately. I know the darkroom developer method exists as well, but what else besides that? Doesn't the darkroom method depend on a good print, too?


for the darkroom method i just printed out a transparency on a laser printer.
turned out the lights, put on a head lamp that had a red led.
opened the presensitized board.
alined the transparency on the glass with the pcb,and exposed it to uv light for 5 minutes.
seems long, i don't really know the wavelength of a bug zapper fluorescent lamp! seems it would take the same amount of time with a regular lamp.
i am really happy i did the extra work.
i did toner transfer a couple of years ago, i was not happy with the process or the end result!
Ayab
Lovely result with the etching. You can easily add a parts placement silkscreen as follows - If your boards are not stuffed and you have a good parts placement this may save you some time soldering and helps avoid mistakes plus can help with troubleshooting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_m1YBTzgvY

(n.b. you may want to turn the sound off - sorry not my video)

It works really well - colour or black and white. You can just rub it off with acetone and try again if it doesn't transfer properly. I have had good results with much better detail than I expected.

What I do:

1. Load pcb traces layout into photoshop then create a new layer with the parts placement layout and 'free transform' the parts layer to match it to the traces perfectly. (It may be necessary to reduce the opacity of one of the layers during this process.)

2. Sometimes I do a bit of tinkering with the parts image to make the print out of the components on the silkscreen stand out more. Sometimes inverting the colours makes a load of difference. If you are interested pm me the placement and I can let you know.

3. Mirror/flip horizontal 180 the parts placement layer and print out (without the traces layer, obviously) onto normal laser paper.

4. Clean pcb carefully with a little washing up liquid to degrease finger marks and then only touch edges.

5. Holding the etched & drilled pcb up to a bright light match the position of the parts layout exactly (print face down) and tape with a couple of bits of masking tape.

6. Wipe plenty of acetone/nail varnish remover over until it is soaked and pressing and rubbing a little on the detail with your fingers - the trick is not to break up or move the paper. It is not difficult to see just when the surface of the paper is starting to break up into bobbles so stop at this point or before.

7. Leave to dry - then its done it should peel right off v.easily
APETECHNOLOGY
Peake wrote:
Pots are 10K linear. The FET's Gate goes to R6, a 10K resistor. G is the unlabel'd pin in the center facing to the inside of the PCB. G is the one which matters. Note that J201 can usually be DSG pinout. If you know the manufacturer of your FET you can find the datasheet. If not, the Idss check can reveal it.

https://rubidium.dyndns.org/~magnus/synths/companies/buchla/Buchla_410 0_8_200.jpg

thank you for your answer, i used odd 2n4339 for the fets.
i am sourcing parts for the 158,
i have some questions,
22pf ish ,this was a variable capacitor. originally 35pf? its hard to tell from schematic.what do you use for this part?
.047uf= film cap?
47 pf= ceramic?
and last question...
out of 15- 2n4339, i have 4 that are around idss .57ma will the trimmer be able to compensate for this?
the j201 i have "from small bear" have a idss of .90 or more!
thanks!
APETECHNOLOGY
Ayab wrote:
Lovely result with the etching. You can easily add a parts placement silkscreen as follows - If your boards are not stuffed and you have a good parts placement this may save you some time soldering and helps avoid mistakes plus can help with troubleshooting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_m1YBTzgvY

(n.b. you may want to turn the sound off - sorry not my video)

It works really well - colour or black and white. You can just rub it off with acetone and try again if it doesn't transfer properly. I have had good results with much better detail than I expected.

What I do:

1. Load pcb traces layout into photoshop then create a new layer with the parts placement layout and 'free transform' the parts layer to match it to the traces perfectly. (It may be necessary to reduce the opacity of one of the layers during this process.)

2. Sometimes I do a bit of tinkering with the parts image to make the print out of the components on the silkscreen stand out more. Sometimes inverting the colours makes a load of difference. If you are interested pm me the placement and I can let you know.

3. Mirror/flip horizontal 180 the parts placement layer and print out (without the traces layer, obviously) onto normal laser paper.

4. Clean pcb carefully with a little washing up liquid to degrease finger marks and then only touch edges.

5. Holding the etched & drilled pcb up to a bright light match the position of the parts layout exactly (print face down) and tape with a couple of bits of masking tape.

6. Wipe plenty of acetone/nail varnish remover over until it is soaked and pressing and rubbing a little on the detail with your fingers - the trick is not to break up or move the paper. It is not difficult to see just when the surface of the paper is starting to break up into bobbles so stop at this point or before.

7. Leave to dry - then its done it should peel right off v.easily




thanks for the tip!

thumbs up
Peake
APETECHNOLOGY wrote:
Peake wrote:
Pots are 10K linear. The FET's Gate goes to R6, a 10K resistor. G is the unlabel'd pin in the center facing to the inside of the PCB. G is the one which matters. Note that J201 can usually be DSG pinout. If you know the manufacturer of your FET you can find the datasheet. If not, the Idss check can reveal it.

https://rubidium.dyndns.org/~magnus/synths/companies/buchla/Buchla_410 0_8_200.jpg

thank you for your answer, i used odd 2n4339 for the fets.
i am sourcing parts for the 158,
i have some questions,
22pf ish ,this was a variable capacitor. originally 35pf? its hard to tell from schematic.what do you use for this part?
.047uf= film cap?
47 pf= ceramic?
and last question...
out of 15- 2n4339, i have 4 that are around idss .57ma will the trimmer be able to compensate for this?
the j201 i have "from small bear" have a idss of .90 or more!
thanks!


-Variable capacitor in 158: didn't seem to do anything so I went for a median value.
-.047uF = film cap.
-47pF = ceramic cap.
-Idss of the E101 in the 158's sine shaper was supposed to be 0.5 so try the 4339.
-Pre55ure pointed out that the 470r to ground just after the sine shaper can be made a trimmer to zero in. Going off of memory and not the schematic.
-Your J201 are at the extreme high end of possible Idss, keep them for later builds with a sine shaper (285, 208, 258, 259).
pre55ure
Peake wrote:

-Pre55ure pointed out that the 470r to ground just after the sine shaper can be made a trimmer to zero in. Going off of memory and not the schematic.


Close, but it's actually the one right next to the 470r. It's the 3.3k between ground and the base of Q14 that I usually swap for a trimmer. thumbs up

I've also found that 2n5460 seems to be the jfet that I have the best luck with in the core. The sine wave is really sensitive to having the right combo of jfets in the circuit. I would recommend socketing the transistors so you can try out a few different ones and decide on one's that get you the closest.
yan6
I can't make out all of the modules from your etching pictures, but what modules make up a basic 100 series.
APETECHNOLOGY
yan6 wrote:
I can't make out all of the modules from your etching pictures, but what modules make up a basic 100 series.


hi yan6
i don't really know what a basic Buchla 100 system was.
just like today i am sure it was what ever your budget could support.
the modules i am presently making are..
2 x 144 dual square wave oscillators
2 x 158 dual sine saw
1 - 156 dual voltage processor
2 x 110 quad vca
1 x 106 mixer
1 x quad low pass filter based on the 192
in the future i would like to build a version of the 102 stereo panner
a random module
a envelope generator,or 2
and some sort of touch controller
i am really interested in the 113
this should keep me busy this winter!
hope this answered you question !
Cthulhu
APETECHNOLOGY
yan6,
i never answered your question...
here is a image of a Buchla 100 system.
this image does not include the 102 or the 113.



Peake
For later, I have an envelope generator layout available which can be used dual, quad, or hex on a single panel or two duals across a pair of adjacent panels from the single PCB. I also have front panel artwork for the 160 noise, 194 fixed filter bank, and 165 random to use with Fluxmonkey's commercially available PCBs. The 165 uses a pair of his 208 random PCBs and can be expanded to up to four individual, discrete outputs per side due to the nature of the 208 circuit, but two per side is standard to the original look (I'm supposing it was actually one voltage per side, wired together; you can of course do it that way as well).
yan6
APETECHNOLOGY wrote:
yan6,
i never answered your question...
here is a image of a Buchla 100 system.
this image does not include the 102 or the 113.


Thanks very much for the good info. Your project has inspired me a bit and has me researching a few ideas. Perhaps I missed it but were there any envelopes available. Also just curious where was the 192 low pass filter from
Peake
Quad and Hex AR envelope builds are here:

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=168870

The 192 is very similar to the LPF on the 410 Module Cluster. The one I've made available is from the 410 schematics.
pre55ure
yan6 wrote:
APETECHNOLOGY wrote:
yan6,
i never answered your question...
here is a image of a Buchla 100 system.
this image does not include the 102 or the 113.


Thanks very much for the good info. Your project has inspired me a bit and has me researching a few ideas. Perhaps I missed it but were there any envelopes available. Also just curious where was the 192 low pass filter from


The 180 is the envelope generator. Just a little bit of weird Buchla nomenclature. hihi

The 192 is interesting, The early versions actually used little incandescent lamps and photosensors in a tube of shrink wrap. I believe that later versions replaced these with vactrols (possible the first use of vactrols in Buchla stuff?)
There is also the 191 filter, which is a LP/HP/BP 24db filter. I have one built up on protoboard but so far I have only been able to get it partially working.
Synesthesia
i would love to build the 2U 191.

did you find a schematics anywhere ? I only have a very basic one.
fluxmonkey
Just to let you know, I've recently restocked all my PCBs: 111 ring mod, 160 noise, 194 BPF, and the random gen based on 208. Info/purchase at http://fluxmonkey.com/fluxmerch_gear.htm

Also, kudos to Mike Peake for all his work on the 100 circuitry over the years, he's really carried the torch on this one.

Good luck!

b
Peake
I have panel artwork for Fluxmonkey's above-mentioned PCBs if anyone wants to build from them, they're easy to build. Thank you for them.
Peake
Synesthesia, I'd love to see a genuine 191 as well. All I've found is that hand-drawn partial schematic.
lasesentaysiete
Peake
yes, please!

BTW, this thread has me on a bit of a 100 series investigation, and I am wondering if anything ever came of your 123 experiments?
Peake
I have a double-sided 123 layout with PCB-mounted pots which doesn't work, have poked at it a bit with no luck, asked questions in a couple of forums with no luck. No, nothing yet.
Peake
I've uploaded the 160, 165, and 194 front panel artwork for use with Fluxmonkey PCBs in this post:

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2671917#2671917
APETECHNOLOGY
ok i am usually not this slow in building stuff!
i bought styrene caps off eBay that took forever....
heres the gang


APETECHNOLOGY
ok,
one by one
106
APETECHNOLOGY
quad 110

APETECHNOLOGY
quad opto filter
the lamps are the worst ! the leads are super bendy...
APETECHNOLOGY
156

APETECHNOLOGY
144

APETECHNOLOGY
158

APETECHNOLOGY
now its time to figure out how to make the panels.
i am going to try lazertran on brushed aluminum.
i asked Peake about how to go about getting a nice result?
his reply was...


Hi, first go to

http://clacktronics.co.uk/research/lazertran/

and study it.

There are several steps and using it is an art. Firstly, try using blank panels from the person in the UK who was recently selling them in the DIY forum; the metal they use is lighter than Bemi and other blanks and lazertran bakes to it far more successfully.

-I wash the panels with soapy water and rinse them very well before use.
-Dip the panel into the water where the lazertran is soaking and put it on the panel under water. It is easier to move into place when the panel is wet.
-When rubbing the bubbles out from between the panel and lazertran decal don't go too hard as the lazertran can stretch. Or break.
-Definitely make sure you've gotten out as many bubbles as is possible. Once the art is aligned on the panel, dry the back of the panel and then the decal. Make sure again to not stretch it or leave any fibres which will discolor when baking. Water on top of the decal will bake as a brown stain.
-I set the panels on the stovetop while it is coming to temperature so any excess water I've missed is evaporated.
-Place them upon tin foil. Metal oven bars will burn the back of the panel.
-Follow the clacktronics directions regarding increasing the temperature over a 2 1/2 hour period.
-Let them sit and cool in the oven a while before removing. The decal in its heated state easily collects fingerprints and smudges upon its gloss.
-Remove and let sit and cool where nothing will fall upon them such as cat hair which would stick.

I use one of these to do starter punches on the drill marks:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brass-TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch-Dril l-Screw-Starter-metal-wood-plastic/322306446019?epid=2254970696&hash=i tem4b0af612c3:g:UXYAAOxyRhBS6ZoS

They're very loud so do it in a well-lit, open area perhaps with headphones or earplugs.
Use quality drill bits only. Have a set of different sizes.
Use 1/16" on each starter hole. If any go off center from the desired point, use a larger bit to open them out then a small circular file to center the guide hole.
You can go from there directly to the correct size bit per hole or do another step in between.
When starting from 1/16" directly to large bit sizes, drill a little and pull back, check the result to make sure it's centered.
Slower drill speeds are best.
Metal filings will blind you so use glasses or safety goggles.
Metal filings will get everywhere so have a trash can handy. Sometimes I can only do one hole before having to tilt the panel over the trash and brush it lightly off.
Some bits will catch the bits being removed and will swirl them in circles upon the lazertran, making things ugly if it's outside the area which would be covered by nuts or knobs. It's possible to drill from the back of the panel if this becomes a worry but of course have a piece of paper or paper towel between the artwork side and the table.
There is something called chamfering where a much larger bit is lightly used to angle the very top edge of both sides of holes with metal sticking up, removes the flash/excess and smooths it. Don't do that to anything which won't be covered by a nut on the art side, meaning if you use any plastic-shaft pots which are not secured to the panel you'd have an ugly surround so use another means to tidy it up.
Alpha pots apparently have a metric shaft diameter so don't be surprised if you end up with a little wiggle room for pots.
Also have a round, tapered file such as this to tidy any slightly ugly holes are holes which are just a touch too small for the desired component:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-KING-10-Smooth-Cut-ROUND-FILE-Single-Cut- Steel-American-Grading/252760200405?hash=item3ad9ae94d5:g:7MsAAOSwLEtY mmVW

Do all touch-up work with things like that over or in a trash can in a place which can be cleaned. Tiny metal filings in your living area can end up in your eye.

Suffice to say there is an enormous amount of work involved and tools and etc. I didn't even mention getting the standoffs and PCB mounting started...I mount standoffs to the PCB, place the PCB behind the panel, and make marks around the standoffs, top first, then drill and make sure the top is right, then the bottom pair. For projects where you know the dimensions you can add them to the lazertran as dots for the starter punch, that is the easiest way.

amazing, thanks Peake!
sanders
APETECHNOLOGY wrote:
now its time to figure out how to make the panels.
i am going to try lazertran on brushed aluminum.
i asked Peake about how to go about getting a nice result?
his reply was...


I made a small system of DIY Buchla 200 modules almost 10 years ago using brushed aluminum Lazertran'd panels (see below and in my avatar pic; sorry I don't have better photos on hand). The results were quite good considering the cost being so low. But I found there are some serious downsides.

By far the best results came from the laser printer variety of Lazertran. I found the inkjet variety to be useless. It doesn't look nearly as good, it's not as thin or transparent a decal as I recall, and it's a mess to apply.

Unfortunately, the laser-printer variety only works on particular machines, none of which have been in manufacture for years. It wasn't hard to track down one of these older printers some years back; people basically give them away, but the driver software no longer works on any of my current computers. So my lazertran adventures are currently on hold. I'm sure someone with a bit more saavy than me could figure out how to get these printers running again.

However, it gets a little worse; In practice, found the durability of these decals is not incredibly high. After several months, and years, bits of decal start to wear away. Also, because it's a soft plastic film/coating over the aluminum, it collects quite a bit of dust and grime. You have to be extremely careful when cleaning the panels, or else they'll wear out even quicker.

For something you're putting so much time, effort, and care into making, lazertran is not a great solution, IMO.

If I were making these panels today, I would either order brushed aluminum blanks from Buchla or other suppliers (or brush them myself from blanks ordered from Front Panel Express, as I did before). Then send them to Front Panel Express for milling and printing.

When I made these 200 series panels years ago, FPE didn't offer laser printing as they do now, they only offered etching at that time. Moreover, the price of laser printed graphics is surprisingly low. It's practically negligible if you're already getting your panels milled there.


Peake
Yes, lazertran is a compromise.

Before getting panels etched etc. using my artwork know they weren't done to a template and some of the lines don't line up...worth editing them if building a system.
Jamnuska
Drilling aluminum requires higher speeds than steel. Way higher.
Get yourself a wheel and learn to sharpen tools (drills are easy to sharpen).
Use a punch to get exact location for holes.
You don't have to chamfer all the way, you can just chamfer a bit.
A deburring tool is what you want.

Put masking tape on surface to protect from scratches.
Lube/coolant makes life much easier...

On a cad milling machine, you could have these panels flying out the door.


ex tool and die maker.
APETECHNOLOGY
Peake wrote:
Yes, lazertran is a compromise.

Before getting panels etched etc. using my artwork know they weren't done to a template and some of the lines don't line up...worth editing them if building a system.


thanks for the heads up about the lines, i am going to have a friend make them the same .
made my first lazertran panel.
it would seem that my laser printer molests the paper as it feeds it.
mine is only a black,so i will see what happens when i find a color laser printer.
also got lazertran stretch on my first go cry



Jarno
Less and less keen on giving Lasertran a try........
APETECHNOLOGY
Jarno wrote:
Less and less keen on giving Lasertran a try........


i can do better, i promise !

lol
sanders
By the way APETECHNOLOGY, your etched PCBs look lovely, and they really capture the aesthetic of these early instruments. I went the same route with most of my 200 clones, using Mark Verbos PCB layouts where available.

Here's a better photo of a Lazertran'd brushed aluminum panel, some 6 or 7 years on, and it's mounted PCB. This panel has faired far better than most, and as you can see, it's decent, after cleaning carefully a soft tooth brush. There are dirt and grime marks that have built up where the decal is scratched or chipped that are difficult or impossible to remove without removing decal.

You can see, it's not terrible, but it's not ideal. Yes, it's a compromise.

If it's gotta be bespoke, there's always screen printing: the gold standard. You could probably get 3 or 4 modules on a screen for $100.



widdly
Can you clearcoat over the lazertran?
APETECHNOLOGY
[quote="sanders"]By the way APETECHNOLOGY, your etched PCBs look lovely, and they really capture the aesthetic of these early instruments.

Sanders, thank you for the kind words!
also thank you for posting a pic of a module. i was going to ask for one.
that filter looks like it has a history!
i do have a silk screen set up in my shop. never printed on metal before.
then there is the route thc went and use Schaeffer.de — "They offer a service where they'll mill and print the panels at the same time. I use the option to under print the entire panel with white, for that original feel"
his looks exactly like the originals.
its a winter project so i have time!
thank you for your input,i appreciate it!
Peake
widdly wrote:
Can you clearcoat over the lazertran?


It should be possible but I have no idea if there would be any sort of negative reaction. Lazertran doesn't like alcohol, I've found, so no idea what else.
sanders
APETECHNOLOGY wrote:

then there is the route thc went and use Schaeffer.de — "They offer a service where they'll mill and print the panels at the same time. I use the option to under print the entire panel with white, for that original feel"
his looks exactly like the originals.


I'd love to see his work. I'm curious to know if anyone has made the Buchla 100 Music Box style cabinets, as in the promotional photo.

On that note, if you look behind my 291 (and below), you'll see a Synthi clone panel I made. I had it powder coated Grey-White by Shaeffer/Front Panel Express in the US, hoping to achieve the Morning Mist look of early EMS stuff. Unfortunately, I missed that mark quite a bit, no pun intended. But it might not be far off from the Buchla white panels. I've never seen a Buchla 100 in person, but I'd guess they would have used a powder coat.

APETECHNOLOGY
wow Sanders, the synthi looks nice !
you can see THC style panels in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjDiQk6kgLc
moogboy010
Hi Peake.Here is a picture of my proto-board,Envelope generator.Could not find,or make art-work,so I did it the old-fashioned way,I went thru torturous-hell for it.Used 2N3904's and 2N3906's.Correction to CBS schematic;R5,R7 and R45,R47 are all 47K,not 4.7K,as stated in lower schematic?Worked the first time I hooked it up.A little quirky ,but it works'!Build follows' the schematic exactly,only mine looks' like chicken-pooh! cool

Apetechnology;The 180 is a bit quirky,in that I do not have it hooked to the panel and the settings' of the pots' might be reversed on the outside legs'.Other than that,it seems' to work.
Update;I had the attack and sustain wires soldered on the wrong legs' of the pots'.Everything is working great.Need to drill panel and make artwork to fit my slightly larger face-plates.(5" x 7 3/8") cool
APETECHNOLOGY
moogboy010 wrote:
I hooked it up.A little quirky ,but it works'!Build follows' the schematic exactly,only mine looks' like chicken-pooh! cool


looks nice to me!
not chicken pooh at all in my book.
what do you mean its a bit quirky?
you inspired me to take up laying this out in pcb software as a learning experiment.
what is goofy? other then the component errors?
confused
Luka
I can also confirm the lazertran doesn't hold up very well. My diy panel were amazing to begin with (10 or so years ago) but now they look like they have skin cancer. Perhaps if you do go with lazertran it might be worth applying some sort of clearcoat on top to seal and protect the finish.
moogboy010
This is my version of the #106.Works' well.Thanks' to Peake and Associates' for the wonderful P.C.artwork! we're not worthy
mush
It seems like Zthee has cloned most of the 100 series by now:
http://www.99musik.se/showthread.php?333095-Buchla-100/page9
(Just for your inspiration, I doubt he plan on offering anything for sale)
APETECHNOLOGY
[quote=(Just for your inspiration, I doubt he plan on offering anything for sale)[/quote]

i think he may be thinking of selling them, he has a website domain for the project...

http://theonehundreds.com
Peake
I'll be available to build Zthee's 100 Series clones if anyone wants some and doesn't build. There are a few modules there not available from my series of clones.
moogboy010
These modules' are beautiful.Love the fact that he has actually cloned the 191 filter! love Great work Zthee!
My art-work makes' me cringe, but I have larger panels' to accommodate some of my larger,proto-board builds'.I did get a lamonator,which helps' to protect the face-plate,but silk-screen can't be beat,for the real look and feel!!!!!
Peake
Nice work on the 106 moogboy010! If you drill out the two holes indicated directly above the word "Ground" at the power inputs, you can pull through a tie-tie and run the power wires through it for some strain relief.
moogboy010
Thanks' for the good advice on the strain relief,Peake! I saw where you had done that,on your 106! BTW; Was a little confusing putting this thing together,as to what pot and jack went to what!Ha! I did the solder-side-out and had to reverse everything. This mixer will distort a bit at full volume.My oscillators' may be a bit hot?
moogboy010
So,it's just starting to come together.A long way to go! I have about 8-boards' and power supply finished and several in progress. Dead Banana
Peake
The 106 can distort a bit at full levels.
moogboy010
The distortion almost sounds' like amplitude modulation!Kind of nice,actually. Can't wait to hear the ring modulators'!
moogboy010
Here is my "stick-built" ,buchla-ish model # 180 Dual Envelope Generator!Not totally pleased with the art-work,but it will do, in a pinch! System is starting to come together!Taking a lot of time to 'tweek' stuff! The Ring modulator,by Fluxmonkey,sounds' great!Building a second ring mod,for a model # 111 eek!
APETECHNOLOGY
moogboy010

looking good,
i need to catch up, you are crushing it!

applause
moogboy010
Thanks' Apetechnology! Your stuff looks' miles' better than mine, but I really want a Buchla-Clone,so I am forgoing perfection, for a usable system.Having a lot of fun,also!I guess I should have never gone with 'bigger than Buchla'-panels'? woah
APETECHNOLOGY
its all about the sounds!
and having fun, also the feeling you get when you complete something and it works.
and keep doing it!, its looking great!


Rockin' Banana!
moogboy010
Yes,you are right.It really is about the sound of these systems' and their uniqueness!I've had lots' of synths',over the yrs., but I found myself entranced with Buchla 100 systems',at some point?Can't explain,but when you hear it,you never turn back and will lust for that sound forever! Ha! lol
moogboy010
Here is the power-supply that I plan on using with my 'buchla 100' clone.I might have to add another regulator,as I am not sure what a full-compliment of modules' will drawl(current-wise)?
Peake
Most modules require +15V and a few require +24. You'll want at least 1A on +15, more if possible. Power supply headroom is a good thing. I'm unaware of the capability of the original PS for the 100 System or how many were required per system.
moogboy010
Thanks' for the great advice,Peake. From what I understand,each cabinet had it's own model # 115 power-supply.The schematic gives' the transformer # as (F-47X Triad). I looked up a (Triad F46X) and that transformer is (24volt,@ 1.4-1.5 amp) rating?I'm thinking of writing down the individual current drawl of each module and adding that up?I suspect what you have stated,that 1-1.5 amps' would be enough for a cabinet of(correction ;15 modules), but some use more current(milliamps') than others'?Thank you for all of your help and your suggestions'!It is most appreciated!!!!! we're not worthy BTW; I tested this power-supply with one of the generators'(Osc.s') last night and it behaved properly! I am very happy about that! It's peanut butter jelly time!
APETECHNOLOGY
this is my first try screen printing,
i am rather pleased with the result,
i was so focused on the up down layout on the 106 i did not notice the side to side was off. whoops!
the 106 was the first one i tried.
the ink was Nazdar ade series epoxy ink
color was blue GS
it matches the modern Buchla color rather well.
time to burn more screens!










It's peanut butter jelly time!
moogboy010
Great job,Apetechnology!These look Beautiful!Very fine work!Well on your way to a model #100! applause
Peake
Guinness ftw! screaming goo yo Guinness ftw!
Synesthesia
very, very cool smile

applause
notmiserlouagain
Thanks for the wonderful popcorn thread! Gotta save it up for this evening, but that much is clear you are doing a wonderful job! (Bit envious of your workshop meh )

Rockin' Banana! love thumbs up
moogboy010

Mounted the power supply in the cabinet,yesterday and also mounted the (2spring Biggs',made in Canada) Reverb.Reverb needed new grommets',as well.Aligned the mounting rails' in cabinet.Looks' like everything will fit in there,but not a perfect fit.Measure 10x,cut once! meh
moogboy010
So I did a trial run with this thing and it worked.No sparks',or fire! Sounds' very 'Buchla-ish'. I think that I am going to have to get a bigger transformer.I have not committed to screw the panels' in,yet .I want to check spacing and alignment(Which will be a bit off,at best)

Peake
Nice! But "Pulse Width" on the 144? Did you add some comparators?
moogboy010
Hi Peake,I actually built the "Terrence Thomas" oscillator to look like a 144!He took the Buchla design and simplified it with op-amps'.It has a schmitt trigger that turns' the saw-tooth to square.Initial saw-tooth is produced by a 2N2426 UJT,with a low and hi range.While it covers' the audio range and the osc.section is fed by differential transistors,like the 144,it is a very different design.I thought it looked good in a 144 faceplate,so I adapted it.I realize that this is heresy!
twisted
Peake
I'll survive hihi
moogboy010
Peake
[s]http://soundcloud.com/robby-matthias/buchla-clone-100-electronic-co mposition-1[/s]

http://soundcloud.com/robby-matthias/buchla-clone-100-electronic-compo sition-1

It's supposed to work if you use an "s" in bars, the soundcloud url, then /s in closed bars...
moogboy010
Thank you,Peake.I wanted to share this,but didn't know how?Much appreciated.I am having a bit of "Buchla-Krell-Nirvana",with this thing,at the moment! we're not worthy
moogboy010
So,Thanks' to the link,that Peake so generously supplied(posted above),you can hear what I am doing with the four modules' of the Buchla-Clone,plus some added wet-plate,master delay and compression.Thanks again,Peake! thumbs up I still have not committed to screwing in the modules'.I want to wait and check for spacing later.I also am either going to have to get a higher amp-transformer,or change the resistor in my power supply(Not enough current)?It is a big(carbon-comp)resistor ! Thinking that it is eating all of the current? Want to get to work on more panels' for modules' that I have finished and start a few new projects'.Having fun,anyway! hyper
J3RK
You might need to change your name now. razz

Might I suggest BuchlaBoy101?
moogboy010
Yes.you are right !Need to nix the "Moog"-part. d'oh!
Peake
If that's a 1A power supply it should have zero problem powering four modules...nice sounds BTW!

I was a hardcore Moog fan until fully embracing Buchla; I still have my 5U ponytail so some "drift" is allowed wink
moogboy010
Thanks' Peake! I appreciate the compliment!I am using a "Terrence Thomas" designed-power-supply.Basically a ground/+15v. regulated-supply.He suggested using a 4-amp transformer,but that seemed like a bit much,to me?It does' have a 5-watt,100 ohm,carbon-comp-resistor,to limit current and that may be the problem!!! I could try dropping the wattage and maybe even the value?But,needless to say,I will probably need a 2-amp transformer.I thought ,by the looks' of the transformer that I am using,it was at least 1.5 amp,but looks' can be deceiving and I don't really know what the amperage is?It is unmarked. And again,thanks' to you and all others' for the input and suggestions'!
we're not worthy
moogboy010
I have been thinking of a design for the '165 random generator',since no schematic seems' to exist?The original design,(as described in the literature),sounded like a relay-controlled sample and hold?What I am thinking of building is a white noise generator feeding into a 12db low-pass,pi-filter,cutoff set at 100hz.,with emitter-follower,to make -up for losses' feeding into a (sample and hold),which has switchable timing inputs' for an internal 555 based,needle-pulse generator,or,alternately the #140 pulse generator.While not original equipment,this should meet the description of (Random voltage generator)? hmmm.....
Peake
People have used Fluxmonkey's 208 Random PCBs to mimic the functionality of the 165 (minus the relay click).
fluxmonkey
as peake mentioned, a number of folks (including myself) have used the random generator based on the easel design for work-alikes. it is pseudo-random, based on recirculating shift registers, PCB available here: http://fluxmonkey.com/fluxmerch_gear.htm

moogboy010 wrote:
I have been thinking of a design for the '165 random generator',since no schematic seems' to exist?The original design,(as described in the literature),sounded like a relay-controlled sample and hold?What I am thinking of building is a white noise generator feeding into a 12db low-pass,pi-filter,cutoff set at 100hz.,with emitter-follower,to make -up for losses' feeding into a (sample and hold),which has switchable timing inputs' for an internal 555 based,needle-pulse generator,or,alternately the #140 pulse generator.While not original equipment,this should meet the description of (Random voltage generator)? hmmm.....
moogboy010
So,I'm thinking maybe the relay in the 165 was just a disrupt-er-timing device,to actually stop the random circuitry feeding the modules',at a timed interval? Would the 165 be a far-cry from a sample and hold,even though the random part was probably several square-wave oscillators mixed together for a Random(somewhat non-repetitious) pattern?
Btw; I took that big,carbon-comp,100 ohm resistor out of my power-supply and put a wire
Where the resistor was.Everything is working much better and I should have close to(825 milliamps')from the regulator(just guessing!)The waveform generators' were really acting up before I did that! I believe that this transformer is close to (2-amps), so I will probably add another regulator to get close to (1 1/2- amps') of power.I am hoping that will be enough to run 15-modules'.Some of these modules' consume very little current.
moogboy010
So,I screwed-in the panels' and it looks' like everything will fit in the cabinet,I need to align things' a bit,but I checked the spacing with blank panels and it looks' like all 15 modules' should fit.I am working on several other modules',at the moment.As you can see,my lines' are a little off! I tried seriously, i just don't get it !h
moogboy010
Thanks' to Bbob,at Fluxmonkey,for the wonderful P.C.
boards'!These all are working,waiting on panels and artwork.They work very well!!!!On the ring-modulator,I matched the transistors' for hfe,which I have found on modern transistors gives' a matching Vbe,also(Usually around .730-.740)mv..As far as the trimmers',I set them at 500 ohm-mid-way of 1K trim and that seemed to be good!On the white noise generator I wound a coil to 50mh.(+/_ 1%).that seems' to work well,also.I am very happy with the performance of these boards' and would suggest them to anybody into "Buchla"-gear and modules'! I forgot to mention that on most of these boards' I used PN4916s' and 3565s'.I used 2N3904s' for the matched transistor positions
we're not worthy
Peake
thumbs up
Jarno
Nice builds! Quite a whopping big coil for 50mH smile does it need low DCR? There are smaller coils in 50mH (I think the small radial ones go up to 400mH IIRC).
moogboy010
I'm sure something smaller and radial would work!I had this lying around and it seemed to fit,so I used it.(albeit a bit cramped)! woah
APETECHNOLOGY
that choke is amazing! well done...
applause
moogboy010
Thanks',Apetechnology! I hope your builds' are going smoothly!Your panels looked amazing!!!! thumbs up
moogboy010
I really wanted a "140 pulse generator" and it appeared that the only way I could have one was the"Torturous-hell-method",so I built this thing.After a lot of trouble-shooting,it all works'! It's not exactly pretty! Ha!Now I need to make a face-plate! hmmm.....
Peake
It worked? I've heard there are two or three errors in the schematic!
moogboy010
HI Peake,This can be built exactly to the schematic,with one change;On S-6,the second position wire(+15v.-supply)has to be moved to the 3rd position on the (3-way-selector-switch)!As far as transistors',I started out with PN3565s' for the osc.-section and 2N3906s' for the PNP positions'.I used a 2N4339-Jfet for the E101 and that works' really well;I tested 6-2N4339s',in this position and 5-worked( one is destined for area # 51 reverse-engineering research) Mr. Green Now as far as making mistakes' building this thing,It was pure-hell! I de-soldered and re-did the last 5-transistor section.I needed to spread things'-out,so that I could really see what was going-on.The last problem I had was a totally "Rookie"error. I reversed the two-resistors' feeding the 2N3566,which stops' oscillation and enables' the (single-pulse-switch) to be engaged!I had the 1.5K coming from the +15v. and the 4.7K going to ground! very frustrating This caused a bunch of Jittering and nothing wanted to work well.After that cluster-...., everything came together!On the last section,I decided to switch over to 2N4916s',but I had 2N3906s' in there before and most of that section was working.One fellow here said that he used a J201 for the oscillator section and 2N3904s' and 2N3906s' for everything else.I think it would be wise to use a PN3566 in that position,just because of current-rating and long-term-life of the transistor.So there is what I did.I went exactly by the schematic,except for the S-6,,position #2 to #3 change and everything works'!:Btw;I was able to get the timing to around 20-seconds'(I could have made it time-longer)with the trimmers'.They worked really well!I would add that this has to be one of the hardest(proto-board)builds',that I have ever (personally) attempted! eek!
Peake
Holy crap, congratulations! That's an achievement!
moogboy010
Thanks' Peake,I knew that you would be interested! Now;This cries' out for a good P.C.board!Hint,hint! hihi
APETECHNOLOGY
i ran across this...
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=164226&highlight=
i wonder if drillionaire ever made boards?
well done moogboy010! Rockin' Banana!
moogboy010
Thanks' Apetechnology! I looked at the link you posted and it is very enlightening! I am still experimenting with designs' and will let you know,if I have any "amazing" results'. lol
Peake
moogboy010 wrote:
Thanks' Peake,I knew that you would be interested! Now;This cries' out for a good P.C.board!Hint,hint! hihi


I'll do it. Awesome. You did the hard work!
moogboy010
Great Peake,I will be looking for it! I might want a second 140? thumbs up
cygmu
I am staring at the 140 schematic that I've got and can't figure out what on earth is going on with the switches. moogboy010, you've evidently got it straight -- can you explain please?

Things that look weird to me include: on S4, throws 1 and 3 both connect to the same place. Why would you want a SP3T switch if you are going to do that? On S2 and S6, only one of the throws is connected to anything at all. So, errr.... what is that about? On S5 the second throw connects to "something" which is just drawn as a little circle. That would normally mean another switch connection but I don't see it.

And there are 6 switches on this schematic drawing but only four on the panel. Ummm...??

[edit] Oh hang on, are S2, S4 and S6 all the same switch, a 3P3T or something? That might clear it up.
moogboy010
Hi cygmu,I will do my best to explain.I understand that this circuit is deceptively simple to look at and hard as hell-to figure out! eek! (S-1-SPDT-switch) controls the speed,or rate of the oscillator section and connects to the center-leg of the (10K-pot),or to an external voltage-control of timing.The first,of the three-way switches'(S-2) connects' to the PN3566,which turns' the osc.-off,when in the center position(single-pulse-mode of 3-way switch).(S-3) is a momentary switch,which sends' a (+15v.-pulse) to the first mutivibrator (flip-flop)circuit.When in single-pulse-mode(2nd position on three-way switch(S-4),only stopping voltage from (S-2) and Pulse voltage,on momentary (SPDT-switch #S-3)are engaged! In (position -#1)on three-way switch(start-stop),there is constant voltage from the (10K pot-) that controls' the pulse-width.This voltage has to be engaged on both positions'#1(Start-stop) and #3(repetitive),.Without that constant-voltage,the osc. will stop!That's why it is on both(#1 and #3) legs' of the 3-way selector switch! (SPDT-switch-S-5) switches' between internal and external-pulse control.Finally,position-#3(S-6) is connected to the 3rd leg of the selector switch.This is wrong(Error),on the (CBS schematic),which shows' it connected to the #2 position.The ( +15v.) has to go to the third contact(#3) of the three-way switch,for repetitive-function(Position#3) to work! I hope this is of some help.It's a very complicated circuit.When I first looked at the schematic,I said to myself No Way! lol Btw;IN the ext.positions',(0 to +15v) controls' the pulse-width and timing of oscillator.Those "O"s' are actually banana-jacks'!
cygmu
Thanks!

I think the thing that really clears it up for me is the understanding that the three switches S2, S4 and S6 are actually a single device, a three-pole-three-throw switch -- is that right?
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch
Nice work, APETECHNOLOGY -- I just wanted to say that your etched and tinned PCBs look great. I make all my own boards as well, and I use Liquid Tin -- it's pretty harmless stuff, actually -- just a bit of tin in fluoboric acid with some thiourea. None of that is going to hurt you as long as you don't swim in it or drink it. The only problem with Liquid Tin is that it's about $40 per bottle, and it tends to form precipitates, which decreases its potency over time. I'm wondering whether it can simply be heated up to redissolve the precipitates. I'm gonna try that with my bottle I think, just transfer it to a beaker and swish it around in a pan of hot water.
moogboy010
Your welcome,cygmu!Yes,that is a (three-pole-three-throw-switch).And the little,unmarked -0s',are your external banana jacks' for oscillator speed and pulse-width control! thumbs up
moogboy010
My art-work is horrific,but-on the "bright-side",I have a functional "Model # 140 Pulse Generator"! Rockin' Banana!
APETECHNOLOGY
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
Nice work, APETECHNOLOGY -- I just wanted to say that your etched and tinned PCBs look great. I make all my own boards as well, and I use Liquid Tin


thank you for the kind words,
for tinning boards i have been using this method lately.

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=197094&highlight=
moogboy010
Want an easy sequencer design,this is it!
moogboy010
The schematic above is right out of the "Terrrence Thomas" book!No mention is made,so I
will point that out and give "due-credit"! I am seriously considering making a "discrete (Buchla-model #123 sequencer)",but I must admit that this schematic gives' me pause.It can(rather-easily) be made to mimic a "Buchla-123",without,the extra (200,or so) parts',that the 123 entails'! This would work directly from a (140 pulse generator),or a standard (555-timer) and it would all work on a (+15v./ground)system! Something to think about,for the ( DIY) people on here? The one thing that this will probably not do,is run the (slide-in lights') that the 123 uses',due to the (extra-current-consumption)? woah
moogboy010
This is the (touch-plate -controller) that I plan on building for my modular. The schematic calls for PN3566s' and PN4916s',You could probably use 2N3906s',for the PNP positions',but I suspect you would have to use (higher-current-transistors') than 2N3904s',for the PN3566 positions'.But the 2N3904s' might work(I have not (personally) tried them)?Attributed (again)to "Terrence Thomas"!Thought some of you might find this interesting? hmmm..... Forgot to mention that you would have to use a J201,or 2n4339,for the "E-101".(they really don't exist,anymore,unless you are willing to pay $18 for NOS,if you can find one?)
APETECHNOLOGY
go moogboy010!

with one are you going to build first?

as for the (slide-in lights') that the 123 uses
you can just gut out the lamp holding bits, leaves just the plastic to house the led's.


thumbs up
moogboy010
I was thinking the same thing,Apetechnology!There is a company that makes'(l.e.d.s' )into a (slide-light-fixture),so that they will slide right-into the housing!!! I think they are asking a big-buck for them?
I will probably do the touch-plate first!
The ('123') is going to be a big-project(for me,anyway)ha!
Good luck on your face-plates' and builds'!
moogboy010
Hi Peake,I got the 144 to work! It's peanut butter jelly time!
I made a really (em-bare-assing )mistake.For some reason,
(Beyond my comprehension), I added the second(+15volt) trace,to the
Matched pair(TI-122) Duuuuhhh! While that is in the ( CBS schematic),obviously you found that error,years' ago!Ha! I thought you were saying to add that?
(magical thinking,on my part)!!! I tried a (J175) and that works',but when I put in the (U147),
the square-wave got "really sweet"(5cps.-20Khtz)!Amazing (smooth,hollow)sound!
I have that position(socketed),so I will try several FETs' in there and let you and others' know what I find.I have found-out one thing; The matched pair need to be high-gain.While (low-hfe-170-250) may work,I used a set of (TIS-97s'),with an hfe in the (505-range)!!!! Possibly why the (U147) is working so well?So,I guess I will have to nix the (Terrence Thomas)generator,after all.Ha!
Thanks' for all of your help and good advice! we're not worthy
Jarno
Do you have a corrected schematic? Would be interesting to have an annotated one which corrects the errors in the original schematic.
moogboy010
Well,this is not very-elegant, but this is how I corrected the schematic! lol
I guess you could do a( white-out) and scan the original-corrected?
Cheerz!Picture file
moogboy010
moogboy010
This is Peakes' board,from his Ebolatone blog.The art-work,for the Ebolatone-144,is corrected.I was the one who(rather-foolishly), added the extra traces'!
Looking at this build,you will notice that the matched-pair of (TIS-97s') are facing the same direction as the (4916s').If you are using (2N3904s') for the matched-pair,they should be facing the other way,like the( PN3565)-NPNs'.The (TIS-97s') collector and Emitter are reversed,from a (2N3904)! Both of the (U147s') are working!(amazing)! woah
Jarno
moogboy010 wrote:
Well,this is not very-elegant, but this is how I corrected the schematic! lol
I guess you could do a( white-out) and scan the original-corrected?
Cheerz!
Picture file


I think I started capturing the schematic in Eagle, a very long time ago, let's see if I can find them.
moogboy010
That would be of (great)help to anybody building a 144!
Thank you! thumbs up
Jarno


Found it, didn't have the values in there, but added them, removed a big mistake, and shuffled some components to hopefully make it a bit better to read. Still a little bit of a mess though.
Apparently I was planning a board, the first transistor pair is BCM847bs, probably would change that, as I can no longer handsolder those.
moogboy010
Thanks' for posting,Jarno!
Jarno
Glad to be of service w00t Let me know if anyone spots a mistake.


Also did a layout:


Right, "huge thumbnail" option in imgur is the way to go.
Peake
Good news moogboy! Yes, I built PCB 100% per the schematic and figured out that trace to +15V offset the hell out of it...

Is your 10R on the top section burned? Where the three trimpots are...

Jarno, that's awesome eek!
APETECHNOLOGY
well done moogboy010
thank you Jarno!
and yes Peake, i wondered about that resistor earlier today as well!

BOOM!
Jarno


Teachers strike today, and I can only take the kids to daycare in half an hour or so, so gave the board another spin. smile
Pots and jacks are at 0.8", and are in the same order as on the Buchla panel (so from the top down, AM, FM, frequency control). Board dimensions are 2.8" x 3".
By the way, I used 2N5116 because that was the closest part I have in the Eagle libraries, it should be 2N5020, unless someone has different experiences (is it crucial to have the right JFET there?). As mentioned I used "BC" transistors, which are reversed from 2N3904/2N3906 I believe. Not sure about the pinout of the transistors you used Peake, were they CBE or EBC or something totally different?
Jarno
By the way, if there's circuitry someone would like to add, to create extra functionality, like saw output or VC PWM, there is some room on the board. Let me know, we'll take this a bit further smile
moogboy010
HI Peake,
I'm working on the 158A.I etched and drilled the board,today.
Have started to populate with resistors',then other components'!
Yeah,that damn-trace that I added ,on the 144,took me forever to figure-out!Ha! Duh!
I think I realized,when I built the 140,that the oscillator section worked so easy!Ha!
Anyway,the 144 sounds' great.I have to finish attaching the switch and modulation-pots'.
That 10 ohm got hot,yes! I installedan fet(wrong) a while back.Did not fry the fet,,or the 10ohm,but they got very warm! woah
Peake
Jarno, Pre55ure earlier posted about a FET which works fine, hope he chimes in.

The original transistors Buchla used had CBE pinouts with dome-shaped bodies, forget the case style name. I used modern PN versions with EBC pinouts excepting the 3391A which is ECB.

[img]Buchla 144 1D3b Etch and Parts by mpeake, on Flickr[/img]

The reason the latest version has a large ground plane between the oscillator pair is that I experienced some phase locking at unison tunings.
Jarno
Thanks Mike,

I did see the mentioning of the 2N5460, but the other P-channel FET has a bigger case, so I am assuming that if the bigger (older) FET fits the other one will as well.
Need to do a bit more studying on the 2n3391a, I mean flipping a transistor is easy enough, but that footprint is quite different, ECB, bonkers.
j450nn014n
[quote="fluxmonkey"]as peake mentioned, a number of folks (including myself) have used the random generator based on the easel design for work-alikes. it is pseudo-random, based on recirculating shift registers, PCB available here: http://fluxmonkey.com/fluxmerch_gear.htm

Thanks for pointing me to your stuff. I was just about to ask if anyone had boards available. We have a circuit mill, but I refuse to touch it, and I've always sent my boards out to be made (nothing this complex) and you have to get 10+ which I don't need. Happy to purchase off someone who's done the heavy lifting.
Peake
I believe ECB is standard Japanese transistor pinout, or at least is common. BASS!

bluedonkey
Hey all,

I found a great way fo making panels cheap. Using a service like this

https://uk.whitewall.com/photo-lab/alu-dibond/direct-printing-on-alumi nium-backing

Anything white will just be aluminium. I made a Serge panel this way. I cant remember how much it was, but I think around the £10 mark.

Dibond is a sandwich of aluminium plastic and aluminium. Its a bit softer than normal ally, BUT the graphics are good and very durable.



aonghus
A question regarding power:

Do you have to build your own power supply for these 100 series modules, or is there a modern one you can use?
Peake
Depending upon the number of modules you want, and which ones you want, a 1A to 1.5A or larger +15V supply is mandatory. Some 3rd party module adaptations can add features requiring a -15V rail, and some modules such as the 190 dual reverb require a +24V rail. It's perfectly fine to add a 500ma or larger linear or wall wart +24V supply to a +15V supply and wire them into the distro. More amperage is better, and it's good to have reserves.

I've completed a pair of 100 Series module which use +24V and I've used pin 10 on the EDAC for it so the owner can add a +24V line into their distro on pin 10 and add other +24V modules later as they please.
moogboy010
Buchla-clone model 158A (Saw/Sine-Generator)- build.This is peakes' Ebolatone-board!
The etch turned-out really nice!The matched pair of transistors',at the front of board are (TIS-97s');The (emitter and collector)are reversed,compared with a pair of (2N3904s)'!
Peake
Good etch!

I haven't updated my page yet but use the original 1K5 resistors in the sine shaper, not a pair of trimpots, but DO use a trimpot in place of the 470r resistor to ground just before the sine shaper. Pre55ure says this is the place to trim for a good sine wave.
moogboy010
O.K.,I will try that!The oscillator is working in range with a(U147) in the osc.section .
I have a fairly pure-tone,with a (2N4339) and the trims' tuned?Have to look at it on my scope?All is good,so far! It's peanut butter jelly time!
moogboy010
Here is a pic,so far.(10K-pot) needs' cleaned.I will replace this with a new-pot!
thumbs up Picture file
moogboy010
Everything is working well.Have not decided about the sine-wave?
APETECHNOLOGY
Peake wrote:
Good etch!

I haven't updated my page yet but use the original 1K5 resistors in the sine shaper, not a pair of trimpots, but DO use a trimpot in place of the 470r resistor to ground just before the sine shaper. Pre55ure says this is the place to trim for a good sine wave.


Peake, its the 3.3k next to the 470 ohm i remember from a while back...
but changing the 1k5's to trimmers has no bearing on the performance?
i already have them installed, i guess i will find out tomorrow ,

thanks for the info!
APETECHNOLOGY
and nice work moogboy010!
crushing it!
we're not worthy
Peake
Do I keep getting that wrong? Sorry. The 1K5s definitely influence performance but Pre55ure said the other resistor is much more important.
moogboy010
Thanks' for the compliment,Apetechnology!
I will leave the (1K) trim-pots' in place,for (Sine-Symmetry),but will change the 3.3K
resistor to a (5K,or higher) trim-pot.Makes' sense.You are controlling the bias,thus gain of that transistor,lowering(signal-input) to the (Sine-Shaper). Should reduce distortion of (sine-wave-form). thumbs up
Thanks' for the revision,Pre55ure and Apetechnology! applause
Jarno
Coming back to the 144 (or other projects that need a P-chan FET), Peake, did you try 2N3820 for the P-chan FET instead of U147?
It seems to be pretty similar to 2N5020, where 2N5460 has higher Idss.

By the way, on the board for the 144 I changed everything to 3904 and 3906 footprint. Will order boards next week.
moogboy010
I made some (J175s') work,in the model#144. Unfortunately The U147(Very difficult to find,if at all) is a natural! All (4) of mine worked in Peakes' 144 board! hmmm.....
Btw; From what I have been able to learn,I think the gain of the matched pair have as much to do with which (Jfet )will work,as anything.Might take a lower(hfe-matched-pair),for a different transistor.As I stated before,I used (TIS97s'),with a gain around (hfe=505).A set of (2N3904s' ),with lower(hfe) might work better,for other(P-channel-jfets')? I had a wider range of tuning control,with the(1K trim-pots')and the (U147),using the (TIS97-matched-pair).
Jarno
Interesting, so not just the jfet but rather the combination. Will try out, I have changed the board to 3904 for the matched pair, lets see if i can get some different fets and try out.
moogboy010
Sounds' good,Jarno,
Let us know your results'?
Btw,I have an original-NOS(MD708B/dual-transistor),that I picked-up in some stuff from a "Ham Radio Fest",several years' ago!I have tested the (hfe) on both sides,under different temperature conditions' and this dual-can stays around (hfe170)! I used that as my (target-value) when matching transistor pairs'.The (MD708B) was probably used in most (Pre-CBS) Buchlas'? The (IT-122) tends' to be a good-bit higher(hfe),usually (hfe-450) and up?
Not-saying that (bias-resistors') don't have a lot to do with the oscillation and performance of the (jfet),but I think that the driver-transistors'(Dual-Pair)have a large-role.
Best of luck hmmm.....
hydn
This is really incredible work you're doing!
Peake
The IT122 are well-matched for both voltage and gain. The MD708B is very sloppy in comparison.

I have not used anything to substitute but 5020 and J175.
APETECHNOLOGY
so i fired up a couple 158's the wave shapes were ass shaped, the one in the picture is actually not that bad,
i replaced the 3.3k with a 5k trimmer
and i was able to adjust out the "ass"!
thank you Pre55ure for the tip!
the new question is, how much should the saw look like a saw?
i did not take a pic of my saw, my 252e is giving the 158 a work out and it sounds nice!
thank you Peake for the hard work!
moogboy010
Beautiful job,Apetechnology.
Nice,clean board! Sine-wave looks' very-symmetrical!
Congrats' on a quality build! Rockin' Banana!
Peake
Loving everyone's builds! Thanks for confirming the best way to get a sine in the 158! That's some 2nd harmonic right there. Trim out all the ass!

cygmu
Peake wrote:
Loving everyone's builds! Thanks for confirming the best way to get a sine in the 158! That's some 2nd harmonic right there. Trim out all the ass!


Yes, this is very interesting and quite possibly pertinent to other JFET sine shaper sections.

I guess the thing being trimmed is the peak-to-peak level of the triangle going in?
moogboy010
HI Peake,
Love the GIF,Hilarious!
lol Here are some (Dinosaur-screen-shots') of the wave-forms' from the 158A and 144.
A little blurred.Got to change the exposure time on damn-camera! angry
Peake
cygmu wrote:
Peake wrote:
Loving everyone's builds! Thanks for confirming the best way to get a sine in the 158! That's some 2nd harmonic right there. Trim out all the ass!


Yes, this is very interesting and quite possibly pertinent to other JFET sine shaper sections.

I guess the thing being trimmed is the peak-to-peak level of the triangle going in?


I believe that's what Pre55ure said, makes sense.
moogboy010
Here are some (Dino-scope)-shots' of the (140 pulse generator),with various pulse-widths'Picture filePicture filePicture filePicture filePicture file
APETECHNOLOGY
moogboy010 your din0-shots look great!
i need to get my 140 built, but first...

on 2 of my 158's when i "morph" from sine to saw i get a significant increase in amplitude and transient spikes. any ideas what would cause this?

cry


cry
Jarno
Progress on the 144 oscillator...
I have boards in, and everything seems to work


The range was ear-piercingly high with the 2n2 timing cap though, after a few iterations I am now up to about 24n7 (2n7 and a 22n tacked in parallel). Still cannot get any lower than about 280Hz, definitely not down to 5Hz.
I am using a 2n3904 matched pair and a 2N5460 FET, and on 15V.

Need to do some more prodding.
moogboy010
Your board looks' very nice,Jarno! I would try a (J175). It might work better than the (2N5460)? I was able to make a couple of (J175s') work in range.
Good luck.
Peake
Jarno, if your design is a 100% clone of the original, know there's one mistake in the schematic which results in what you're describing, being stuck out of audible range. The connection to +15 at Q2's collector should not exist.

https://rubidium.dyndns.org/~magnus/synths/companies/buchla/Buchla_144 0_1_200.jpg
Jarno
Yes, that's a well known error in that schematic, so in my PCB that connection is not there.
It seems to respond well, it is just that the range is a lot higher than expected. Could be because of the transistors (and their properties) used in the diff pair.
moogboy010
I would try another (P-Channel JFET).Some seem to work(in-range)better than others'?
Peake
The IT122 dif pair specified for the 144 (and 110, 111, etc.) is easily available and is inexpensive. I don't see on your PCB where a dual pair package would go so check the characteristics of the IT and find discrete transistors which match...
Jarno
Ah, didn't realise one could still get IT122, I figured it was one more unobtainium part.

Well, put in a lower gain for the two first transistors (realised they are not connected like a diff pair). I used MPSA42. That seems to help, I have 2N3820 in there for the FET, sort of the same result.
I tacked 100nF over the 2n7 timing cap, range is now much lower smile

It's a nice VCO, keen on finding out what they sound like if you have a bunch of them and crossmodulate.
The saw output is also very worthwhile.

Thanks all for the help, I'll plug away at this board for a bit longer, think I will build another 2-3.
moogboy010
Glad to hear you are getting the 144 working,Jarno!
Very cool that you are getting some other( P-Channel JFETs) to work in a 144.
Jarno
Yeah, but I do want to try the IT122 part. Nearly done stuffing another 2 boards.
Peake, I checked eBay, but there are not a lot of them around did you try to get them from China, or from Linear Systems? The ones from China seem a bit fishy, why would they still have NOS parts while they were originally made in the US?
APETECHNOLOGY
Jarno,
best to buy it122 directly from linear systems.
your board looks great! well done.
thumbs up
moogboy010
woah I have looked at the linear systems' site and it does' not look like they carry the (IT122),unless they have renamed it?I did get a pair from China and they checked-out O.K..
One was a lot hotter than the other one(hfe290)and (hfe750)?
They were packed wel and marked (Intersil/Harris).Took a while to get them and I really didn't need them,but wondered if they were for real?
Vendor: UTsource/China
Jarno
The IT122 can be found at shop.micross.com, search for it122 (can't seem to link directly). Those are the linear systems ones.
APETECHNOLOGY
or in the USA just call them
Linear Systems
Phone: 510-490-9160
i have found this is the easiest way!
+ when they put you on hold there is old school electronic music!
moogboy010
Thanks' for the tel#,Apetechnology!Very Cool!
APETECHNOLOGY
i did a layout for the 140 and 180 both work!
i will post the pcb art and build info for both after i get them in real panels.
and verify them in use.
the one issue i have is on the 140 in single pulse, i would like to use a 2 pin momentary push button.
not a spdt push button.
any ideas?










seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it
moogboy010
Awesome build,Apetechnology!The (three-way-switch),for (single-pulse),just about has to be a (three-way),unless you want to build a (relay-triggered) by a (two-way-switch).Could be done,but more (room and modification) to the already(difficult-schematic!)Ha!
Great work! applause we're not worthy
Peake
Fantastic news! I should finish my Dave Brown modified 123 which now works...
moogboy010
What made the 123 work?Would be interested in knowing the details'?
Peake
I'm not entirely clear but there was apparently interference due to my novice layout which some additional parts and tweaking of parts values solved.
moogboy010
Hi Peake. Many thanks' to you,Dave Brown and others' who have worked on the 123.
It would really be nice to have a working-modal of that module! applause we're not worthy
cygmu
For the pushbutton on the 140, could you do this:

One pin of the button goes direct to the tantalum cap C4, with a large resistor (100k?) also connected there going to 0V.
The other pin goes through a resistor (4.1k I guess) to 15V.

The large resistor is supposed to pull the voltage down when the button is not connected, to mimic the effect of the switch being on 0V. It needs to be big so that the 15V "on" voltage is not divided down too much.

I don't know if this will work. Maybe it won't discharge the cap as fast as you want when the switch is off. Worth a try?
APETECHNOLOGY
Dave brown suggested this circuit, i built it on perf boards quick style, did not work confused
i built it in a rush,maybe i made a mistake. i need to verify my layout works as designed, with a spdt momentary first .
if i cannot get Daves suggestion to work,i will give your suggestion a try.
thanks! thumbs up

cygmu wrote:
For the pushbutton on the 140, could you do this:

One pin of the button goes direct to the tantalum cap C4, with a large resistor (100k?) also connected there going to 0V.
The other pin goes through a resistor (4.1k I guess) to 15V.

The large resistor is supposed to pull the voltage down when the button is not connected, to mimic the effect of the switch being on 0V. It needs to be big so that the 15V "on" voltage is not divided down too much.

I don't know if this will work. Maybe it won't discharge the cap as fast as you want when the switch is off. Worth a try?
APETECHNOLOGY
great news Peake regarding your 123! Guinness ftw!
i look forward to building one in the future!
for now,looks like i am going the cgs/Djangosfire route.
pretty deep in at this point! Mr. Green



lol
moogboy010
Wow,Apetechnology,great work!Love the panels!Amazing layout of boards'! applause we're not worthy
You could also try a (CD4066) as a switch,But then again,more room on an already crowded board?
WeepWow
I don't know what the hell you guys are talking about, but it is truly amazing to me. Wish I would have gotten into Buchla DIY myself 30 years ago, spent too much time being an audio recording engineer.

WTB: 206e, 250e, etc.
APETECHNOLOGY
i want to build a 130, the closest thing i could find is the schematic for the 230.
the schema was drawn differently then most other buchla schematics,it is confirmed to be correct , but the "node" dots are not existent.
does my redraw seem correct?



hmmm.....
Peake
Weird. I've built a 158A and can't get a clean sine on one of the oscillators even with the pre55ure mod of having a trimpot for R35 to control the level into the sine shaper; it's buzzy at every level. Tried a different sine FET and swapped the U147, paralell'd a 22pf to C6, dropped R42 and R43 in the sine shaper to a matched pair of 680r, nothing.
moogboy010
Hi Peake,I had one of the generators' a little hot and some distortion.I would put the (1K -trims' )(R42,R43) in there and Maybe try a (lower-gain) transistor at (Q14),before the sine-shaper?
Peake
Thanks, a lower-gain Q14 before the shaper was my next idea as well. Edit: That improved things. Still triangle-y.
APETECHNOLOGY
i got the 130 to work!
it works really well, very responsive. sensitivity is touchy,i need to look into that.
also need to make a proper panel! woah

moogboy010
Nice Job,Apetechnology!You are tearing it up with your builds'.Want to see your system picture soon!!! applause we're not worthy
APETECHNOLOGY
Moogboy, i need to make cases!
i think i am going to make this style for my 100






hmmm.....
moogboy010
Hi Apetechnology,
Those are a good design! I also like the older square cases,that the original 100s' came in!The older ones' seem to have more of a (bookcase with shelves') appearance,that I am a bit partial to!Ha! lol
Will be looking to see your work!I presume you have a good compliment of modules',by now? Let us know how you are progressing!
Great work,so far! applause we're not worthy
Reese P. Dubin
That 130 is built from the cleaned up 230 schematic above??
This is great news, I find the 230 to be the best follower trig extractor I have used. One of the few things i am severely lacking.
lasesentaysiete
There seem to be examples of 140 modules with illuminated pushbuttons and some without. Is this the case? Or did the originals all have illuminated buttons?
moogboy010
Not pretty,but it all works'! It's peanut butter jelly time! Finished this a while back,don't think I posted it? eek! [img]



[/img]
djs
I noticed moogboy put two switches in for internal/external control. Any idea why Buchla joined them both on the original?
moogboy010
Some of the late (CBS modal # 144s') had two switches'!Somewhere along the line,Don decided it would be nice to have separate switching,for manual,or voltage control of both oscillators'.I like having one in manual and one in V.C.mode,sometimes'!I think (Don Buchla)probably didn't think it was necessary,to begin with,or discovered the added flexibility at a later date? hmmm.....
diophantine
It encourages the purchase of two rather than just one?
moogboy010
Diophantine,I was thinking that,after I wrote my post.Two audio and two modulation oscillators'!Most early systems' did have multiple 158As',so it would have been easy to do!
n.d
I've just found this thread. Great stuff.

APETECHNOLOGY: did you finish the 130, 140 and 180 layouts?
APETECHNOLOGY
180 is here,


APETECHNOLOGY
140 is here,



APETECHNOLOGY
130, is here.


APETECHNOLOGY
i ended up making the 123 like the original.





moogboy010
Thanks for sharing your work,Apetechnology!Amazing builds'!Love the(modal #123)
moogboy010
BTW;Apetechnology,do you show the correction on the (3-way switch)?Doesn't look like it in the schematic of the p.c.board?
n.d
Thank you so very much.

About the 123, you mean you laid the board like the original?
By using pictures?
APETECHNOLOGY
moogboy010 wrote:
BTW;Apetechnology,do you show the correction on the (3-way switch)?Doesn't look like it in the schematic of the p.c.board?


i corrected it in my drawing.
s6 contact 3= 15v spinning
APETECHNOLOGY
APETECHNOLOGY wrote:
moogboy010 wrote:
BTW;Apetechnology,do you show the correction on the (3-way switch)?Doesn't look like it in the schematic of the p.c.board?


i corrected it in my drawing.
s6 to contact 3 smokin'
boops
Great work here !!!

I m looking for a buchla 175 schematic,anyone? Thanks
guitarfool
boops wrote:
Great work here !!!

I m looking for a buchla 175 schematic,anyone? Thanks


La67 175 schematic on this page: lasesentaysiete build info
boops
Wahou. so quick, many many thanks
Rockin' Banana!
moogboy010
Apetechnology,Thanks for the #140 schematic correction and the boards'!Really kind of you to share your work!Great Job! we're not worthy
PHETRUS
hi to all, first thank you for the amazing work, I wouldn't be able to finish any of my projects (Buchla 100) without the information gained in here or related threads so big thank you guys! [/img]
PHETRUS
I thought will share with others some ideas, as I'm quiet fresh to DIY electronics there may be some mistakes or unfortunate aspects of the projects and will be very happy if corrected, anyway will post things I personally confirmed as working, so at first the layout for 120 I'm yet in the process of completing, but have already made 110 using the same layout so logically it should work, 3 pcb's: A bottom and 2xB to top maybe someone will find it useful, will post some other stuff later smile
Spliffgroen
APETECHNOLOGY wrote:
180 is here,





Nice works all over. Quation to you Ape, why did you decide to put those extra resisters there? I'm looking into the 180 atm.

Thanks!. zombie
Spliffgroen
Guys, I am working on a 110, since it got lots of space left I firstly was thinking making it quad. But overnight I thinking about making it more 292ish. Its inspired by the thomas white design. I was curious and sharing it, how about you thoughts about the design and missing parts / maybe less for the 100 purist.

Cheers.
moogboy010
Spliffgroen,you could probably build the 4-envelope that Peake has on his(Ebolatone) site! would probably be much easier than making a (#292)?Also,you could double the boards' for the(#180) with standoffs'.You would have to come-up with some different art-work for the sustain-section switching(int/ext.)Fluxmonkey has the(#180)boards',which makes' things' a little easier,if you don't like making P.C.Boards' and the drilling a million small holes' for componants'! hihi
Spliffgroen
Quote:
moogboy010
, yes I'm thinking the same. I'll do the the lpf later on.. Would be nice to have a lpf on the 100. whats wrong with the decay switch on the board, looks fine to me? cookie?!?
moogboy010
The original #100 only allows' for(two)sustain switches,but could be modified for four,as long as there is enough room?Or,you could use two #100 ADS' panels',for an original look,unless you are not worried about it being original to the #100?
hmmm.....
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