MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Zlob VnIcursal problem
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Zlob VnIcursal problem
pcfrg
So I just put two zlob VnIcursals together. one i working just fine and the other isn't.

the 3rd channel is not working. There is no sound reaching the output although there is a very small amount of leakage from the audio input to the SUM on the bottom.
The led is working properly both when controlled by the pot or the cv input.

I have double checked all solder work and everything looks fine. i traced all the ins and outs to the mother pcb, but to rule out the top pcb is really all i know how to..

Can anyone help me get this thing going?

pcfrg
A quick update..

I switched the ics around and there seems to be no issue with those as well. Does anyone know if this could be some issue with unique components, maybe the transistors?

kinda worried that attacking this problem with the soldering iron would botch the whole thing.
StudentsOfTheFuture
You've got a working one (and it's a 6 mostly identical channels thing, right?) so you're in a very good spot as far as troubleshooting!

Unfortunately the only short cut past just checking and finding the issue yourself is getting lucky and finding someone who happened to have the exact same issue. That happens every now and then, but it's, unfortunately, not very common.

Basically, take a meter and follow the circuit through each component, and write down the voltage. Do this on both of them - the working one, as a control, and the non-working one.

When you get to a weird voltage, bam, you've found your broken part. Then just desolder and swap, or fix the joint if that's all it is (surprisingly common).

The best advice I can give is go slow and step away for an hour/day/week/month if you need to. You got this!
pcfrg
Yea thanks for the advise, although should’ve taken your last tip more seriously. Just shorted something with the meter and fried a couple of extra components, you know, just for the hell of it very frustrating

Guess that it’ll lie on a shelf for that well advised month. Thanks anyway thumbs up
gruebleengourd
Congratulations on getting one fully working. Those are really tight builds with so many similar looking components and rather difficult to decipher labeling.

Cool and compact, but one of the hardest DIY I've done.
guestt
Hey everyone,

I just built this for someone and I had some trouble with it, which is most unlike me and was confusing the hell out of me for quite a while. It turned out to be a bit of an outlier, a tiny piece of solder had got stuck in-between the trimmer legs and was causing a short which stopped the entire module from firing up. I have no idea how it got in there, and it was not easy to spot; I looked at it at least a dozen times and from many different angles before I eventually saw it. Once it was removed it fired up right away.

Anyway, to help me debug the build I made these photos with text showing all the component placement and I thought they might be useful to anyone else attempting this build. It's pretty dense, thoroughly enjoyable build. I had to modify one photo as it said things that weren't useful for posting here, hence the white box:



Oops... just noticed I put the wrong value on the very top left capacitor, that should be 10J.




And here's a photo of the offending article - grrrr!!! hihi

dugoutcanoe
Maybe this is the right spot for these questions...

So I'm still noob'n my way through this one. Not my first diy build, but one of the few that i've sourced my own parts for... The BOM says six 10k resistors.. for L1, L2, L3, L4, L5, L6. so i ordered some 10k resistors.. Getting into this build, I come to find that i need 15k for the red LEDs (L1, L3, L5) and 6.2K for the yellow (L2, L4, L6) . I ordered GREEN! eek!

Could anyone be so kind as to explain why the BOM would say 10k is needed for the LED's????????? SO CONFUSING!!!

Also what values are needed for green LED's??

help
onurkalaycioglu
dugoutcanoe wrote:
Maybe this is the right spot for these questions...

So I'm still noob'n my way through this one. Not my first diy build, but one of the few that i've sourced my own parts for... The BOM says six 10k resistors.. for L1, L2, L3, L4, L5, L6. so i ordered some 10k resistors.. Getting into this build, I come to find that i need 15k for the red LEDs (L1, L3, L5) and 6.2K for the yellow (L2, L4, L6) . I ordered GREEN! eek!

Could anyone be so kind as to explain why the BOM would say 10k is needed for the LED's????????? SO CONFUSING!!!

Also what values are needed for green LED's??

help


i think you misunderstood the BOM, it says "(L1-L6 value dependent on led color and mcd)" the six 10k resistors go on the top pcb, but arent for the leds.

these 15k and 6.2k value suggestions are for specific tayda leds i stock. not all leds would require the same values. hard to say exactly what value to use for your green leds, it would take some value experimentation on your part. start at 1k with L1 and adjust to suit your desired brightness, increase resistance to lower brightness. once you figure out the correct value solder L2-L6.
guestt
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
dugoutcanoe wrote:
Maybe this is the right spot for these questions...

So I'm still noob'n my way through this one. Not my first diy build, but one of the few that i've sourced my own parts for... The BOM says six 10k resistors.. for L1, L2, L3, L4, L5, L6. so i ordered some 10k resistors.. Getting into this build, I come to find that i need 15k for the red LEDs (L1, L3, L5) and 6.2K for the yellow (L2, L4, L6) . I ordered GREEN! eek!

Could anyone be so kind as to explain why the BOM would say 10k is needed for the LED's????????? SO CONFUSING!!!

Also what values are needed for green LED's??

help


i think you misunderstood the BOM, it says "(L1-L6 value dependent on led color and mcd)" the six 10k resistors go on the top pcb, but arent for the leds.

these 15k and 6.2k value suggestions are for specific tayda leds i stock. not all leds would require the same values. hard to say exactly what value to use for your green leds, it would take some value experimentation on your part. start at 1k with L1 and adjust to suit your desired brightness, increase resistance to lower brightness. once you figure out the correct value solder L2-L6.


Really nice response - thank you for taking the time to write this up so clearly.

thumbs up
dugoutcanoe
onurkalaycioglu wrote:

i think you misunderstood the BOM, it says "(L1-L6 value dependent on led color and mcd)" the six 10k resistors go on the top pcb, but arent for the leds.

these 15k and 6.2k value suggestions are for specific tayda leds i stock. not all leds would require the same values. hard to say exactly what value to use for your green leds, it would take some value experimentation on your part. start at 1k with L1 and adjust to suit your desired brightness, increase resistance to lower brightness. once you figure out the correct value solder L2-L6.


Crap! I totally shelved this project till today and didn't bookmark this or see your reply to my post back in May. Thanks Mr. Zlob man!

So i finished the build, but i'm getting a little bleed on channels 3,4, and 5 and an itty bit on 1. Trim pots on those all the way CCW. Everything else is working. I've poured over it many times. What'd i do now? razz

onurkalaycioglu you have the best/spookiest Avatar in all of Muffwiggler land evil
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Page 1 of 1
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group