| br>Ninety per cent of what you see above is pretty much right. Enough VCAs, enough oscs, enough modulation for some fun.
But you should reserve some empty space (or just order a pair of P22 cabs right off the bat, with appropriate power already
installed; I recommend *separate* 120VAC inputs so you can split the systems into two...)
Anyway, I would:
0) Grow out a ponytail. You won't get any respect in MU circles without a ponytail.
1) Ditch the Q150 ladder filter. I have one and with scant exception, the Q107 state variable filter always sounds
better and is more versatile. (update- turns out I *have* ditched the Q150 - it's in a box now, not the rack). If you want a
second filter, I'd recommend an SSL Steiner or a MegaOhm DeltaVCF, which are very different architectures and sounds. That is,
unless you Just Gotta Have that last two percent between a properly resonant state variable filter and a low distortion ladder
"moogish" filter. I've actually ABed them and with the exception of slightly different distortions and a different CV response
to resonance AC modulation, they're pretty much interchangeable.
--- 2 MU slots saved.
2) Unless you *already* have a keyboard, ditch both the MIDI modules. If you have a keyboard (and it's not the DOTCOM
keyboard with CV outs) then ditch at least one. You don't need both especially in a system this small.
-- 2 more MU slots saved.... now 4 open.
3) If you play keyboards, then splash out the $$$ for the DOTCOM keyboard and put the MIDI-->CV modules in the sidecar,
along with a couple of mod wheels and maybe a whammy bar / pressure block. With a system this small, every MU counts.
Either that, or accept that you will be getting a second P22 in the forseeable future. :-)
4) Get the reverb. A touch of reverb makes even a big MU system sound much BIGGER. :-) It's well worth the slot it consumes.
-- 1 MU slot used . Down to 3 open slots.
5) You are probably fine on VCAs. But unless you have another instrument you want to "play in" to your modular, like a guitar or
a violin or microphone or such, ditch the Q118 instrument interface until you need it. Then, when you need it, get it.
--- 1 more MU slot saved. Back up to 4 open slots.
6) Both the Noise and the Ring Modulator are very 'underpopulated' - you can stay wth them as separate modules but you
might also going "Full Makita Jacket", taking an electric drill to the faceplates, and mounting both circuit cards behind
one MU panel. It's a common mod to save space.
--- no change unless you go "Full Makita Jacket". Four MU slots open for your next order / exploration.
7) I can see that you are trying to stay pure "dotcom" for your first system and that makes sense - Roger will assemble it,
test it, torture it and burn it in and what you get when you unwrap it from layers of bubble wrap and corrugated board will work perfectly.
And if it arrives and doesn't work, it's not your fault! Zero worries on that though; Roger runs a proper shop.
But after a month or three, you may well want to try other manufacturers- like I said, the Synthetic Sound Labs Steiner and the MegaOhm Delta filters are very
VERY diffferent behaving than the SVF/Transistor ladder. You may also want to look into the Synthetic Sound Labs TTLFO (Tap Tempo LFO) - which
is a crazy amazing LFO with variable waveshaping and stuff (and can be upgraded to even more crazy). And I've found that
Oakley / Krisp1 modules are great too - I have two Oakley VRGs, two Oakley ADSR/VCAs, and an Oakley Noise/dual
filter (which is the reincarnation of a very obscure original Moog module.. Ditto on Moon Modular - I have a couple of
Moon Modulars (the 561 MIDI and the 564 Sequential Divider Switch) and they're also rock solid.
But not right away. Maybe next month, OK? Get some hours of just plain exploration and rethink then where you want to go.
8) OPTIONAL - drop one of your VCOs out of your initial order, in anticipation of putting in an SSL 1200 VCO, which has one
feature I *LOVE* - the coarse tune knob is basically "DC to Daylight" - one knob that does a full frequency shift from like 0.1 Hz to
20,000 Hz. It's what you NEED if you want to do a real chirpdive without clack-clack-clack of a range switching knob. And
if you are OK with a refurb, it's $15 more expensive than the Q106 VCO and takes only one slot, not two.
9( And once you get that second P22 cab, get the Q960 sequencer, the Q105 slew, and the Q117 Sample and Hold, as a package (have
Roger assemble and test it) and then say "Hello, Tangerine Dream"
10) You have an open slot- you may want to try a wavefolder. STG Soundlabs makes an excellent one, which I have and can vouch for.
Wow, that was long..... I guess I'm an opinionated old bastard when it comes to MU.
Hope this helps.
- Bill br> br>