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Swirls/Lamb (8hp Tides/Sheep)
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Swirls/Lamb (8hp Tides/Sheep)
electric mist
Hi there,
I have done this thing.


I love Tides and I need more in my small setup. So here we are.
The panel is double side. One side for the original Tides firmware, the other side for Sheep.
The files are here .
Cheers.
rizoma
applause applause Cool, did you made this using available info online from mutuable instruments?
electric mist
Quote:
Cool, did you made this using available info online from mutuable instruments?

Yes I did. All the Eagle files for all the modules are available on the MI Github.
rizoma
Neat! Did you solder them too? That qfp is so clean! Can you post side facing pictures?
electric mist
Quote:
Did you solder them too? That qfp is so clean! Can you post side facing pictures?

With the right tools it’s totally doable smile
Some side pics :

adam
looks great smile
rizoma
electric mist wrote:

With the right tools it’s totally doable smile

Just a single board! Nice! thumbs up
So did you used hot air soldering iron?
electric mist
Quote:
So did you used hot air soldering iron?

Yes I did for most of the components. But I use a classic soldering iron with a small chisel tip and a lot of flux for the fine pitch ic’s.
rizoma
electric mist wrote:
Yes I did for most of the components. But I use a classic soldering iron with a small chisel tip and a lot of flux for the fine pitch ic’s.

I thought the exact opposite! May I ask why?
Altitude909
Nice layout..
electric mist
Quote:
I thought the exact opposite! May I ask why?

I’m more confident this way. I find it difficult to dispense the right amount of solder paste without a stencil and I prefer to take a little more time to place the part and dont have to deal with solder bridges. But sometime I use hot air for everything, it depends on the mood smile
stringsthings
Nice!
StudentsOfTheFuture
Oh my god I literally opened Muffwiggler to see if anyone was working on something like this and this was the top topic.

Thank you!
rizoma
electric mist wrote:
I’m more confident this way. I find it difficult to dispense the right amount of solder paste without a stencil and I prefer to take a little more time to place the part and dont have to deal with solder bridges. But sometime I use hot air for everything, it depends on the mood smile

Thanks for the infos!
I would love to do something like that in the future, now, I'm just etching/drilling my pcbs and panels (it's a real drudge work very frustrating ) I'm working on a extended baby10 sequencer and fixing my diy nonsense 15v from scratch eurorack system. One day! meh
electric mist
Quote:
I'm working on a extended baby10 sequencer

If you are interested in a DIY sequencer and if you want to start working with smd you should take a look at the Atumbra Rot8.
http://www.antumbra.eu/modules/rot8
It’s a great sequencer.
rizoma
electric mist wrote:
If you are interested in a DIY sequencer and if you want to start working with smd you should take a look at the Atumbra Rot8.
http://www.antumbra.eu/modules/rot8
It’s a great sequencer.

I think I saw that one, looks cool! But I'm extending the baby 10 sequencer myself as an exercise I lay out the pcb, after that I would like to get pcbs manufactured.
I like the way you shrinked those modules and I would like to do something similar.
Anyway I'm not interested in building stuff from kits!
I'm also interested in programming micros(I think I will do a quantizer from scratch).
So, yeah, lots of stuff and can't get any consistency nanners
electric mist
Quote:
But I'm extending the baby 10 sequencer myself as an exercise I lay out the pcb,

This was the idea too with this project.
The nice thing with MI stuff is there’s a lot of useful informations in the original design files.
ubiquiphilia
very nice
khyber
Good work, very excited to have one of these as Tides is indispensable in my rig.
CeeJay
electric mist wrote:
The panel is double side. One side for the original Tides firmware, the other side for Sheep.
khyber
derp d'oh!
Pozzetronics
I am struggling to open the board (V1 or V1.1) file..is says "line 8, column 16: This is not an EAGLE file."

Also, has V1.1 been tested yet?
electric mist
Pozzetronics wrote:
I am struggling to open the board (V1 or V1.1) file..is says "line 8, column 16: This is not an EAGLE file."

Also, has V1.1 been tested yet?

I just tried to download the .brd files and both work fine in Eagle 7.6.
I don’t know what is the issue you encounter.
The v1.1 in untested yet.
If you’re plan is to have some boards made, don’t forget to built the ground plane (running the ratsnest function) before you export your Gerber files.
And don’t forget to check the .cam files requirement of your pcb fabhouse.
I use EasyEda for my proto boards cause they provide their cam files and you can check your board in the Gerber Viewer.
Altitude909
Pozzetronics wrote:
I am struggling to open the board (V1 or V1.1) file..is says "line 8, column 16: This is not an EAGLE file."

Also, has V1.1 been tested yet?


You need to download the raw file. Just download the zip of the repo and it will be fine
Pozzetronics
Thank you!
electric mist
Hey. Did someone build it? I would be curious to have opinions.
Altitude909
electric mist wrote:
Hey. Did someone build it? I would be curious to have opinions.


Yeah, works fine. There were some clearance issues and I added PSI power on mine but overall, it was fine. Good layout
electric mist
Altitude909 wrote:
Yeah, works fine. There were some clearance issues and I added PSI power on mine but overall, it was fine. Good layout

Cool. On which area do you had some clearance issues ?
Altitude909
all over. Download the PCBway DRC (which is "standard" design specs for most fabs) and run it, it will find them all. Also, your via's were kind of large diameter wise. I usually go 13 mils on those so they always get tented and they can print over them
electric mist
ok. I used the DRC of the original module. No probs with my boards from EasyEda. I had check with them before I ordered some. Next time i’ll check other pcb house specs. Yeah the via’s are a bit large I notice this. Smaller ones would have made the routing process easier...
Thanks for the feedback !
Altitude909
It's probably splitting hairs about the clearances, I doubt it will trip anyone up

What I changed:

Thonkiconn jacks, the holes were painfully small on those.
added PSIpower
Changed crystal to smaller size
adjusted vias to 13mil
trip
Altitude909 would you be willing to share your updated eagle files? Been meaning to make those changes myself but haven't got round to it.
Altitude909
trip wrote:
Altitude909 would you be willing to share your updated eagle files? Been meaning to make those changes myself but haven't got round to it.


Yeah, I just need to update the BOM and I'll publish everything
tetsutestu
EDIT: Managed to fix it! Replaced the OP-AMPs, one of which I had placed incorrectly; and replaced a transistor as well. Yay!
How awesome to have a working Tides in 8HP.
Thanks Electric Mist!!!

Hi! I guess this is place to go for advice on Swirls.
I managed to build my Pusherman version "successfully" but I'm having some issues with low volume and a loud humming sound from the UNI and HIGH output.
The weird thing is is that I can hear the module working (ie. I can hear quantized sequences coming from the UNI out, but barely audible over the hum. (the BI out works perfectly BTW)
Is this a ground problem?
I did a finger test and I found that if I touch adjacent jacks with my finger the volume increases. So I decided to connect the bottommost legs of the BI and UNI jacks to each other with a wire. This brought the volume up, but the humming noise still persists.
Aside from this, the functionality of the module seems normal. I'm flummoxed!
Can anybody suggest a possible solution here? Where should I be looking?

FYI, here is a short clip of the UNI out humming noise:
https://soundcloud.com/joshua-stefane/swirls-uni-out-humming-noise/s-P B96P
Altitude909
trip wrote:
Altitude909 would you be willing to share your updated eagle files? Been meaning to make those changes myself but haven't got round to it.


https://github.com/altitude909/Eurorack/tree/master/SwirlsV1.2
trip
Altitude909 wrote:

https://github.com/altitude909/Eurorack/tree/master/SwirlsV1.2


we're not worthy
wedaman
Hello

I tried installing Sheep Firmware after making Swirls.
I pressed the A button with power on. The problem is that the three LEDs do not blink yellow. Three LEDs are flashing red. Of course Sheep Firmware can not be installed.
Do I have to install Firmware again from jtag?
electric mist
wedaman wrote:

I tried installing Sheep Firmware after making Swirls.
I pressed the A button with power on. The problem is that the three LEDs do not blink yellow. Three LEDs are flashing red. Of course Sheep Firmware can not be installed.
Do I have to install Firmware again from jtag?

Does the module operate properly with the Tides firmware ?
wedaman
Thank you for your reply.

Quote:
Does the module operate properly with the Tides firmware ?

Yes, It works with Tides firmware.
Altitude909
wedaman wrote:
Thank you for your reply.

Quote:
Does the module operate properly with the Tides firmware ?

Yes, It works with Tides firmware.


How did u install tides?
wedaman
Quote:
How did u install tides?


Thanks Altitude909.
I used win10, vagrant and ST-Link V2.
wedaman
Thank you everyone.

My problem was solved.
I thought there was a problem around the LEDs circuit. I checked the schematics.
Three LEDs were connected to STM32F103CBT6.
It was difficult to solder the STM32F103CBT6. I soldered it again.
When I press the A button with power on, the three LEDs blink yellow.
After that I could install Sheep firmware. hyper


Swirls / Lamb is a wonderful module !
electric mist
wedaman wrote:
Thank you everyone.

My problem was solved.
I thought there was a problem around the LEDs circuit. I checked the schematics.
Three LEDs were connected to STM32F103CBT6.
It was difficult to solder the STM32F103CBT6. I soldered it again.
When I press the A button with power on, the three LEDs blink yellow.
After that I could install Sheep firmware. hyper

Glad you’ve fixed it.
Enjoy !
zlance
wedaman Did you build the entire board before you started flashing? I only loaded SMT components on the board and power connectors and I can't seem to get the STM32 visible by my stlink.

PS I got the 1.1 version pcbs
ilovesoldering
Hi guys

Does any body know the 2 diodes 1n5189W directions for this module? Couldn't work out from the pics...

Thanks!
pathein
from the perspective of looking at the board with diode side, red line to coincide with the line on the diode.

edited:board picture is from the 1.1 version

ilovesoldering
pathein
thank you so much!
electric mist
ilovesoldering wrote:
Hi guys

Does any body know the 2 diodes 1n5189W directions for this module? Couldn't work out from the pics...

Thanks!

Hey, you should use the Eagle files when you built. It’s useful to locate parts (with the “show” command) and look at the orientation. There’s also an ULP somewhere on the inter webs that allow to show parts per value. A game changer !
electric mist
Here it is :
https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/eagle-forum/how-to-highlight-all-resist ors-of-a-certain-value/td-p/7690441
ilovesoldering
electric mist wrote:
ilovesoldering wrote:
Hi guys

Does any body know the 2 diodes 1n5189W directions for this module? Couldn't work out from the pics...

Thanks!

Hey, you should use the Eagle files when you built. It’s useful to locate parts (with the “show” command) and look at the orientation. There’s also an ULP somewhere on the inter webs that allow to show parts per value. A game changer !


Wow! Omg! Thank you! we were just talking about this kind of app when we were in the modular workshop a month a go!
synthcube
we're happy to offer full kits for both the black and white magpie panel versions-- all the parts you need, and the Tides ARM flashed with the latest firmware already!

Enjoy, and thanks to electric mist, magpie, altitude909 and jakplugg for all the work on this

https://synthcube.com/cart/index.php?route=product/search&search=uTide s&description=true
saiteron
hello all,

just got done with a build of uTides from a Synthcube kit and I'm completely baffled. i plugged it in and it powered on just fine but all the knobs aside from the main frequency knob do not seem to be functioning properly. i assumed this is because i need to calibrate it so i attempted to initiate the calibration procedure by long-pressing the mode button but nothing happens (it just changes modes as though i short-pressed the button instead). there is zero documentation available on the Synthcube site relating to the specific version/firmware i'm working with here and i cannot find any documentation anywhere regarding what this could indicate. i have read up on all three firmware versions (official, Parasites and Sheep) and none seem to reference any of the things i'm experiencing. the only thing the module has done properly is enter firmware update mode by holding the mode button at startup. i was able to successfully push v1.1 standard Tides firmware to it but it still does not function as expected. it is possible i have built it wrong as there are also no detailed build guides readily available anywhere and i'm experienced with builds but far from a pro, but a thorough inspection hasn't revealed anything in need of servicing and the spotty functionality and sparsity of documentation has me at my wit's end. anyone have any ideas on what might be wrong or how i can enter calibration mode?

EDIT: the level input doesn't seem to be working. this would likely explain its inability to enter calibration mode. Synthcube has recommended I reflow all the potentiometer and jack joints.

EDIT 2: after reflowing all solder joints for potentiometers and jacks i'm still having the same issues. i did a little more research and reading and some close comparison with the Eagle files and i've noticed a few things. first: the board i have is labeled Swirls/Lamb v1.1 but is actually a v1.2 board. second, there does not seem to be any facing information on the board or in Eagle for IC8. not sure how i missed it while working on the board but i suppose mistakes are inevitable. anyways, about to try to pop out the IC and swap its facing to see if that helps.

EDIT 3: nope. won't power up now so i must've had it right to begin with. totally out of ideas here and my lack of electronics knowledge means it will likely be a long road to be able to navigate a schematic well enough to know what proper voltages should be at various points in the chain. any advice at all is totally welcome but barring that i think i'll just need to get another kit and try again, then revisit this one to see if i can repair it with things i've learned from the second go round.
TinyTrucks
Anyone have any issues with the LP/fold knob. Mine only seems to make any difference in the last 10% of its clockwise travel. The knob does not seems to take the module into LP mode at all, but has a wave shaping type effect between 4 and 5 o'clock. I've replaced the pot, triple checked solder joints, measured all resistors. Only think I changed was 2 incorrectly placed caps, C15 and C16. I had the caps rotated 90 degrees and gapping the wrong pads. Would the error with the caps have possibly harmed the DAC?

I've tried multiple versions of the firmware, updating through the .WAV method.

Anything else I can try here?
saiteron
hey TinyTrucks, i actually had the same problem with all three trimpots in that row. only the last little bit of the knob seemed to do anything at all. unfortunately i screwed up the pads under one side of my microprocessor so it's out of comission but i ordered a second unit and will be getting to work on it in the next few days. i'll let you know if i have the same issue again after building. would love to get to the bottom of this.
standudinski
finishined mine, my first SMD project as well. burning the bootloader and firmware with a cheap USB ST-link went ok, i think. finishing installing the pots (NO ONE in US has any linear 10k trimmers in stock, had to order from the UK) and will post photos of the finished project when i get a knob for it. (forgot to order that! DOH!)


Stan
standudinski
saiteron wrote:
hello all,

just got done with a build of uTides from a Synthcube kit and I'm completely baffled. i plugged it in and it powered on just fine but all the knobs aside from the main frequency knob do not seem to be functioning properly. i assumed this is because i need to calibrate it so i attempted to initiate the calibration procedure by long-pressing the mode button but nothing happens (it just changes modes as though i short-pressed the button instead). there is zero documentation available on the Synthcube site relating to the specific version/firmware i'm working with here and i cannot find any documentation anywhere regarding what this could indicate. i have read up on all three firmware versions (official, Parasites and Sheep) and none seem to reference any of the things i'm experiencing. the only thing the module has done properly is enter firmware update mode by holding the mode button at startup. i was able to successfully push v1.1 standard Tides firmware to it but it still does not function as expected. it is possible i have built it wrong as there are also no detailed build guides readily available anywhere and i'm experienced with builds but far from a pro, but a thorough inspection hasn't revealed anything in need of servicing and the spotty functionality and sparsity of documentation has me at my wit's end. anyone have any ideas on what might be wrong or how i can enter calibration mode?

EDIT: the level input doesn't seem to be working. this would likely explain its inability to enter calibration mode. Synthcube has recommended I reflow all the potentiometer and jack joints.

EDIT 2: after reflowing all solder joints for potentiometers and jacks i'm still having the same issues. i did a little more research and reading and some close comparison with the Eagle files and i've noticed a few things. first: the board i have is labeled Swirls/Lamb v1.1 but is actually a v1.2 board. second, there does not seem to be any facing information on the board or in Eagle for IC8. not sure how i missed it while working on the board but i suppose mistakes are inevitable. anyways, about to try to pop out the IC and swap its facing to see if that helps.

EDIT 3: nope. won't power up now so i must've had it right to begin with. totally out of ideas here and my lack of electronics knowledge means it will likely be a long road to be able to navigate a schematic well enough to know what proper voltages should be at various points in the chain. any advice at all is totally welcome but barring that i think i'll just need to get another kit and try again, then revisit this one to see if i can repair it with things i've learned from the second go round.

speaking of firmwares. have you tried loading Sheep on yours and check for functionality?
vespine
so i have the synth cube kit with the v1.1 board


https://github.com/ElectricMist/Swirls

so the bom has R1, R11, R47, R48, R49, R57, R58
are supposed to be 10K Ohm

and the kit comes with that in the pack but there is no R1 or R11 on the board (confirmed against the brd file) and i do not see this discrepancy mentioned anywhere..
I'm continuing with the rest of the build.
vespine
i was missing some more parts from the kit, namely the correct size of tl072, i've got that sorted now but the module isn't working quite right.

both buttons cycle green > off > red > off > green

the modes seem to work ok, i actually though it wasn't working until I realised "yellow" mode, the one that appears off on my unit, is the cycling mode and the other modes require a trigger. I've done some testing now and it all seems to be working right, but, for some reason, yellow doesn't display, which has me really stumped since yellow is just red and green together isn't it? I have built a rings with a very similar bi color led configuration...
vespine
just realised there's 2 different versions of tides, i've been looking at the new one....
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