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208p build thread (papz's PCBs)
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2, 3 ... 10, 11, 12  Next [all]
Author 208p build thread (papz's PCBs)
papz
FAQ
Buildnotes
Parts layout
Schematics

Happy building !
the bad producer
thumbs up
papz
I updated the cards pics with components layout and values and the build notes.
The C5 47µF tantalum cap mentioned in the BOM works fine in the CO instead of the 56µF.
R45 100k instead of 20k eases tracking calibration.
Karl71
this is gonna be good. hyper looking forward to a thread of well documented success stories.
papz
Me too for sure ! lol
beautyofdecay_
I started my build today and populated the motherboard.
I have to wait for the cards components before I can continue...

papz
thumbs up
papz
Some extra infos added in the build notes.

It's better to match the vactrols on boards 10 and 11, or use dual VTL5C3/2.

Vactrols VT4 and VT2 on board 5 need to be selected on test for proper AM performance.

On board 7, R3 should be selected on test, a value between 3k8 and 12k, depending on the vactrol, to set the desired timbre amplitude. I find 4-5 folding is good, as shown on http://modularsynthesis.com/buchla/208/buchla_208.htm but others prefer more foldings. It's up to the builder to select what best suits his needs.

On board 8 the 2N4399 needs selection on test for proper sine waveshape.

I think this depends not only on the part itself but on the other parts in the circuit as well, therefore I use to select parts on test directly in each circuit.
pathein
thanks for the updates

I have just received the pcbs and panel. Got to say that the panel is really looking good. Next up will be waiting for the various parts to arrive, cant wait to start working on it
papz
Thanks for the feedback Chugging Beers
pathein
hi papz, some questions regarding the pA726 board. For the electrolytic, is it necessary to get at least 35v rating type or 25v type depending if its +-12v/+-15v?

for tab 1/1tab, it will be populated with male pin header?

for the resistors, will 1/10w rating be ok or stick to 1/4w type?
papz
25V is ok for the electrolytics, these are between each +15V/-15V/+10V rails and ground. But higher voltage is ok, I generally use 50V since I mostly stock these, are the same size and price as 25V and can do more. Also, the higher the voltage rating, the longer the life expectancy.

I'd rather use 1/4W resistors.

The DIP10 emplacements are to connect the pA726 to the boards, vertical one to 6 and horizontal one to 7.
I'm not sure the holes are large enough for headers.
I simply use thick components legs, there are much more than needed when building a 208. lol
"1" shows the µA726's pin 1, "tab" the µA726's tab/pin 10.
The trimpot should be on the same side as the other trimpots, this way you can't be wrong.
More details and pics on http://www.portabellabz.be/pa726.html
pathein
Cool, thanks for the info, much appreciated!
heapish
Has anyone done a mouser cart for this?
beautyofdecay_
papz wrote:
Some extra infos added in the build notes.

It's better to match the vactrols on boards 10 and 11, or use dual VTL5C3/2.

That's a good idea.
I think a VTL5C3/2 should work like this? The vertical blue line is a wire link.



The wires of the original VTL5C3/2 are long enough to connect the vactrol this way. I don't know about the current clones however...
papz
Or this way.
Legs can be extended with wire if needed.

sanemalkavian
Hi everyone. I am new at this, so not sure how good it is.

I compiled a Mouser project based on the BOM lists from PDFs. Mouser project has all the components that can be found based on those BOMs, so parts that are rare and cannot be found on mouser, including sliders, pots and hardware parts are not included.

I also included everything needed for pA726 except for CA3046 and two pin header.

In the attachment are all Excel files generated from PDFs, including a compiled mouser cart, where all parts that are not in stock are replaced with other part number. Compiled Excel doesn't include parts needed for pA726.

I hope this will help.

Mouser project 208
beautyofdecay_
I think there is a mistake in your BOM (I made the same mistake... eek! )
You should order CD4016, not CD4066!

The original BOMs from Roman specifies the CD4066. Check the PCB layout pictures from papz (or the original Buchla schematics). There only 4016s are used.

EDIT: checked the datasheets and the 4066 can be used also as it is an updated version of the 4016... Sorry for the confusion!
sanemalkavian
Thank you for the info. I used the recommendations from papz, as he says that 4066 can be used, except for card 8, where 4016 is recommended for IC2, so BOM contains 1 4016.
papz
Thank you sanemalkavian thumbs up

Some 4016 may cause problems indeed, which can be avoided using 4066 instead. I now use 4066 in all my 208 builds.
In case some wonder whether this affects the sound, the answer is no, these ICs are used to voltage control switches.
papz
Some builders ask me about this on the promo PCBs card 8.



The trace touched the eyelet and was rectified at last minute, but the solder mask wasn't rectified.
So no worries, it is ok and can be used as is.
beautyofdecay_
Making progress...

Card 1, 2, 3 and 4 are up and running cool
papz
thumbs up

trimix
Since I can't seem to find anyone offering panels for the 208 right now, I was wondering if anyone has drawing files (especially drilling centres) for the 208.
Formats can be .svg .ai .dxf ... anything editable.
I'm not looking to make a clone... I actually want to customize the look of the panel for myself. But of course the locations of the hardware must remain the same.
anybody???
delayed
https://electricmusicstore.com should have both panels and a drill sheet
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