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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Stripboard Layout of the Fonik/Rönnberg clock divider.
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Stripboard Layout of the Fonik/Rönnberg clock divider.
chloeprice
I hope that I didnt make any mistakes in the layout and that I didnt break any unwritten Muffwiggler rules. (I dont know if dedicated threads about strip layouts are unwanted, I dont think so, tell me if so).

Anyway, I made a stripboard layout of Niklas clock divider, which is originally based on on Foniks design.

Schematic of Foniks original design: https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/files/divider_115_209.gif
Muffwiggler thread: https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3146

Niklas schematic: http://familjenronnberg.se/~niklas/diy/eurorack/divider/divider_schema tic.png
His page about it: http://familjenronnberg.se/~niklas/diy/eurorack/divider/

I didnt add the resistors on the output and the led on the layout, since I would mount them on the jacks/panel. (also because of space problems)

If you find any mistakes please tell me.

Jarno
Nice work, and not violating any rules that I am aware of grin
Paradigm X
cool. curious why yours using 5v as well tho, cant see that on schematic?

edit, sorry, found it on the schem now. still dont understand it if anyone can clarify. would a divider work if you need 5v?

cheers
PWM
The 5V powering of the buffer transistors limits the outputs to 5V. You can connect them to 12V/15V if you don't need this limitation.
roglok
nice. i like the non-orthagonal mounting style, it gives the circuit a somewhat 'organic' look thumbs up

i made a stripboard version of Fonik's original version with the inverters (reset = ON) a while back: http://electro-music.com/forum/post-398194.html#398194
Paradigm X
PWM wrote:
The 5V powering of the buffer transistors limits the outputs to 5V. You can connect them to 12V/15V if you don't need this limitation.


Ahh, ok, many thanks, there are a number of ways to limit to 5v. Many thanks.

thumbs up
chloeprice
roglok wrote:
nice. i like the non-orthagonal mounting style, it gives the circuit a somewhat 'organic' look thumbs up


Glad you like it, but I just did it because I wanted to make it as small as possible, not aestethics.
Does working in a "orthagonal way" with wirebridges have any advantage over my arrangement?
ClausF
Also many thanks from here... applause
Starspawn
Im a bit uncertain of what the words mean, but working with more vertical parts takes less space, less cuts (as not so many cuts UNDER parts are needed, only between parts where necessary), it also encourages you to use every line for something, even if its just one cut in the middle and an extension waystation on either side.
Most of your sideways resistors could just as well be standing if taking two spaces, half standing if three, and down in four, so that gives you more width to play with.

Looks almost correct though, just missing a cut between leg 1 and 14 of the 4024 that I can see. Better than my first couple efforts. applause
chloeprice
Starspawn wrote:
Im a bit uncertain of what the words mean, but working with more vertical parts takes less space, less cuts (as not so many cuts UNDER parts are needed, only between parts where necessary), it also encourages you to use every line for something, even if its just one cut in the middle and an extension waystation on either side.
Most of your sideways resistors could just as well be standing if taking two spaces, half standing if three, and down in four, so that gives you more width to play with.


I will try to make a new layout with just vertical lines and connectors in the next few days, ill post it here when its ready. Thank you for the info.
Dave Kendall
Have you tried perfboard - either plain, or pad-per-hole?

You can get circuits quite a bit more compact than using stripboard, for when space is at a premium.
chloeprice
Dave Kendall wrote:
Have you tried perfboard - either plain, or pad-per-hole?


I have, but I find stripboard nicer and cleaner to work with - even if i have to sacrifice SOME space for it.
hakonbraga
chloeprice wrote:


I will try to make a new layout with just vertical lines and connectors in the next few days, ill post it here when its ready. Thank you for the info.



did you ever do it?
hakonbraga
I made a smaller design based on yours.
I saw that you forgot to connect the reset to the chip (the long blue wire)

I have double checked this design and i'm going to build it today, will let know if there are any mistakes on it.

edit: works perfectly, but I think the LEDs are a little bit to bright, maybe it just depends on what kind of LEDs you'r useing
Mimmo
Hi there,

I need some help cause I breadboarded the clock divider using 2N3904 transistors and 4148 diodes and +12V, but it doesn’t work.. When I plug in a clocking signal I get nothing out only until I hit the reset button, then all LEDs (except the /1 one) light up ( not blinking) and I get almost +12V constant from the outputs not a clocking signal. I triple checked the connections and I can’t find a wrong one.. Can anyone think what I m missing here? Thanks for your help.
Starspawn
Did you remember that long blue wire? Also assume there are cuts ALL under the 4024. Edit breadboard ... well, check more, and check if youre connections are solid/properly seated.
Mimmo
Thanks for the answer, I found the problem. It was a faulty 2n3904, the one after the input signal. I replaced that and everything works fine.
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