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Moog Model 15 power UK
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Author Moog Model 15 power UK
nikarga
Hi fellow Muffs - i am considering purchasing a Model 15 from the US and bringing it to the UK. I have a couple of questions that perhaps current owners can answer:

1. Does it have a built-in transformer allowing me to switch to 220V? Or would I need to source a Moog power brick for Europe (or a transformer) separately? If it has an internal transformer then I can just use a UK kettle lead (I am based in the UK)

2. I own a Cirklon sequencer with a Eurorack BoB for CV/Gate duties and also a Moog Voyager. As the Model 15 uses S-Trig, what cables would I need to use the Model 15 with a) Cirklon (3.5mm ie 1/8 jack) or b) Voyager (S-Trig?)

3. Where the heck is the manual? I am sorry for the questions but I cant find a digital copy online.. if anyone has one, I would be most grateful!

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance! hihi

Niko
josaka
just get a transformer.. plug it in direct.. £20-30 off ebay..
nikarga
josaka wrote:
just get a transformer.. plug it in direct.. £20-30 off ebay..


Id rather not risk and source the actual brick if need be.
JohnLRice
nikarga wrote:
1. Does it have a built-in transformer allowing me to switch to 220V? Or would I need to source a Moog power brick for Europe (or a transformer) separately? If it has an internal transformer then I can just use a UK kettle lead (I am based in the UK)

From https://www.moogmusic.com/products/modulars/model-15#specs-tab
"130 Watt 120 VAC Power Supply(230 VAC available upon request)"

nikarga wrote:
2. I own a Cirklon sequencer with a Eurorack BoB for CV/Gate duties and also a Moog Voyager. As the Model 15 uses S-Trig, what cables would I need to use the Model 15 with a) Cirklon (3.5mm ie 1/8 jack) or b) Voyager (S-Trig?)
Synthesizers.com sell a Voltage to Switch Trigger Cable that you could use to fire the envelopes on the Model 15 from your other gear (just use a simple 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter cable if needed)
https://www.synthesizers.com/qmvs.html

Going the other way, converting S-trig to v-trig takes a little more circuity then can fit in a cable, I think.

Club Of The Knobs (COTK) has a couple CP sized modules that do both conversions. You or someone could make a small case just to hold and power them?


Moon Modular has the 598CP module designed to interface with a Moog keyboard and has v-trig to s-trig and s-trig to v-trig converters in it.


nikarga wrote:
3. Where the heck is the manual? I am sorry for the questions but I cant find a digital copy online.. if anyone has one, I would be most grateful!
There is a copy of the original Model 15 manual on Synth Fool's site (R.I.P.).
http://www.synthfool.com/docs/Moog/modular/
The file is PS format which, you may be able to open if you have a compatible application by Adobe and others.

I tried this free online converter to create a PDF and it worked fine:
https://online2pdf.com/convert-ps-to-pdf
noddyspuncture
Just stick a 240v transformer in it...!

I replaced the 110v transformer in my original R.A.Modular... 18-0-18 I think it was. Quite simple to do.
JohnLRice
noddyspuncture wrote:
Just stick a 240v transformer in it...!

I replaced the 110v transformer in my original R.A.Modular... 18-0-18 I think it was. Quite simple to do.
I think the re-issue Moogs are using Power-One / Bel-Power linear supplies in them so if that's the case, and they didn't provide a means to switch the input voltage externally, any competent electronics tech should be able to re-wire the existing supply for the required voltage. cool
JohnLRice
JohnLRice wrote:
noddyspuncture wrote:
Just stick a 240v transformer in it...!

I replaced the 110v transformer in my original R.A.Modular... 18-0-18 I think it was. Quite simple to do.
I think the re-issue Moogs are using Power-One / Bel-Power linear supplies in them so if that's the case, and they didn't provide a means to switch the input voltage externally, any competent electronics tech should be able to re-wire the existing supply for the required voltage. cool
haha, yup, no need to do anything, just flip the switch me thinks! hihi
josaka
a kenton pro 2 has S and V trig.. one on ebay for just over £100


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KENTON-PRO-2-DUAL-CHANNEL-MIDI-TO-CV-CONVER TOR-LOWER-PRICE/302675205500?hash=item4678d91d7c:g:UE4AAOSwwB1arqS2

http://www.kentonuk.com/kmanualspdf/pro2man.pdf
nikarga
JohnLRice wrote:
haha, yup, no need to do anything, just flip the switch me thinks! hihi
[/quote]

That looks like a Model 15 pic John! applause
Does that mean that all I need to do is flip the power switch to 230V on the back and just attach a UK kettle lead?

If so, why does Moog say they will provide a 230V rather than 120V as per above?

Thanks for all the replies guys! Guinness ftw!
nikarga
JohnLRice wrote:
nikarga wrote:
2. I own a Cirklon sequencer with a Eurorack BoB for CV/Gate duties and also a Moog Voyager. As the Model 15 uses S-Trig, what cables would I need to use the Model 15 with a) Cirklon (3.5mm ie 1/8 jack) or b) Voyager (S-Trig?)
Synthesizers.com sell a Voltage to Switch Trigger Cable that you could use to fire the envelopes on the Model 15 from your other gear (just use a simple 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter cable if needed)
https://www.synthesizers.com/qmvs.html

Going the other way, converting S-trig to v-trig takes a little more circuity then can fit in a cable, I think.


Yes I have seen these, thank you

JohnLRice wrote:
nikarga wrote:
3. Where the heck is the manual? I am sorry for the questions but I cant find a digital copy online.. if anyone has one, I would be most grateful!
There is a copy of the original Model 15 manual on Synth Fool's site (R.I.P.).
http://www.synthfool.com/docs/Moog/modular/
The file is PS format which, you may be able to open if you have a compatible application by Adobe and others.

I tried this free online converter to create a PDF and it worked fine:
https://online2pdf.com/convert-ps-to-pdf


Followed the above and got the manual - thanks for this John, you the man! we're not worthy Guinness ftw! hyper hyper

josaka wrote:
a kenton pro 2 has S and V trig.. one on ebay for just over £100


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KENTON-PRO-2-DUAL-CHANNEL-MIDI-TO-CV-CONVER TOR-LOWER-PRICE/302675205500?hash=item4678d91d7c:g:UE4AAOSwwB1arqS2

http://www.kentonuk.com/kmanualspdf/pro2man.pdf


Thank you for this @josaka - Between the Cirklon the BoB and an iConnectMidi4+, I want to try and avoid adding more desktop midi/cv stuff... hence just trying to figure out how to use the Cirklon to sequence (with the right cables).. MY ASS IS BLEEDING MY ASS IS BLEEDING
JohnLRice
nikarga wrote:
JohnLRice wrote:
haha, yup, no need to do anything, just flip the switch me thinks! hihi


That looks like a Model 15 pic John! applause
Does that mean that all I need to do is flip the power switch to 230V on the back and just attach a UK kettle lead?

If so, why does Moog say they will provide a 230V rather than 120V as per above?
I'm not sure why they state it can be done "by request". Maybe the initial plan was to use a different supply or the web folks were looking off of original specs or??? To be sure just write to Moog and ask them, don't trust some internet weirdo like me! hihi
nikarga
Yes that's a good shout. I spoke with Moog Service here in the UK and apparently it looks like all i do is flick the switch to 230V and use a UK kettle lead.

Now I need to understand exactly how to trigger this beast.
The cables on synthesizers.com make sense.. but I am wondering what I need to plug the 3.5mm Break Out Box CV & Gate outputs from the Cirklon, and into the Moog.

Also, I guess if I want to use the Voyager to control it, I need to buy a VX351 and use the CV outputs from there with 1/4" to 1/4" mono audio cables?
JohnLRice
nikarga wrote:
Now I need to understand exactly how to trigger this beast.
The cables on synthesizers.com make sense.. but I am wondering what I need to plug the 3.5mm Break Out Box CV & Gate outputs from the Cirklon, and into the Moog.

Also, I guess if I want to use the Voyager to control it, I need to buy a VX351 and use the CV outputs from there with 1/4" to 1/4" mono audio cables?
Get some 1/4" to 1/4" female connectors like the Neutrik one below. Hosa and other's make them too.


Then for the Cirklon BOB get some 1/4" to 3.5mm cables


And for the Voyager some regular 1/4" to 1/4" male cables.

There are other cable options as well and also some stand alone box converters like the ones LowGain Electronics makes
http://lowgain-audio.com/

or module version of the same thing like Moon Modular and Synthesizers.com make:
Dr Gris
If the primary is changeable from 115V to 230V with a switch you also need to check the fuse rating.
I don't know standard ratings in UK.
In Sweden it's 250V
And if you want the same protection from the fuse you should make it half the value.
It says on the back: 1/2 AMP = 500mA
I guess that's for 115V usage
Going for 230V that would be 250mA
It's always "slow blow" instead of "fast" fuses when going to a transformer based PSU because of current inrush.

//M
nikarga
Dr Gris wrote:
If the primary is changeable from 115V to 230V with a switch you also need to check the fuse rating.
I don't know standard ratings in UK.
In Sweden it's 250V
And if you want the same protection from the fuse you should make it half the value.
It says on the back: 1/2 AMP = 500mA
I guess that's for 115V usage
Going for 230V that would be 250mA
It's always "slow blow" instead of "fast" fuses when going to a transformer based PSU because of current inrush.

//M


I dont know dick about electronics... hyper
Dr Gris
nikarga wrote:
Dr Gris wrote:
If the primary is changeable from 115V to 230V with a switch you also need to check the fuse rating.
I don't know standard ratings in UK.
In Sweden it's 250V
And if you want the same protection from the fuse you should make it half the value.
It says on the back: 1/2 AMP = 500mA
I guess that's for 115V usage
Going for 230V that would be 250mA
It's always "slow blow" instead of "fast" fuses when going to a transformer based PSU because of current inrush.

//M


I dont know dick about electronics... hyper


You don't have to lol
I don't know much either....
But I do know that if the fuse in the back is for 115V, it won't like 230V.
Unscrew the fuse holder and read what it says on the fuse when you get it.
If it says 115V change it for a 250V.
It will also say what Ampere it's rated for on the fuse itself.
Google some pics and I think you get the idea.

//M
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