MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Toying with the Idea of Converting Eurorack to 5U Dot.com
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> 5U Format Modules Goto page 1, 2  Next [all]
Author Toying with the Idea of Converting Eurorack to 5U Dot.com
RussiaZero23
First I want to start off with that this is just an idea I am toying with and wanted to get as much feedback from the 5U land before even looking further down this rabbit hole.

I have a decent size euroRack that I want to finish off (and yes I can actually Finnish it and I have a list and plans that I am following) I also started (AGAIN!) to rebuild my 5U (slowly).

As I go through and try out many things in euroland there are many things that bug me.
Here comes my personal opinion and not to piss off the Euro side of things.
My gripe is the quality of many of the modules and the shear fragility of the actual cables and connectors. The Knobs and sliders may not allow the resolution needed to get very exact setting since they are smaller in range and size, even though the analog circuit does allow for such range and the module is capable of it. You end up doing these micro movements on he knobs or sliders to reach your desired setting. The power systems and the IN-Rush power requirements is a mess.
Many manufactures are very willing to talk and even work with you on things and then there are many that will never even speak or follow up on an email.

Also some manufactures just pick up and disappear leaving repairs in the air and lack of documentation and the majority being SMD means very hard to repair and with out documentation your left with a door stop in the event a repair is needed.

I love stackable cables and that is one of eurorack strong points.

So on to the Idea I was thinking.

What would it take to convert a big system of euro rack stuff to 5U. Many of the Eurorack stuff I have does not exist in 5U unless you do some hardcore DIY stuff that requires much more skill.

The thought I have is you need -
Panels - Cut the right holes and slots needed for pots,jacks,sliders,LED.

Panel Design - A program that I can use that is accurate to the 1/4” standard to make the temp-let to cut the right holes in them.

Panel Graphics - Silk screen or etching both have problems to over come.

Hardware - Then you would need to buy all hardware for each modules requirements to port over. E.G. Jacks in the 1/4” size and longer throw sliders.

Work - Then you would need to desolder all the jacks,switches,sliders,led on the EuroPCB and use cables or flying leads or connectors with cables to connect to the new hard wear.

mounting - PCB to new panel

converting power requirement - from +15/-15/+5 Volts to the Euro standard.

This seems like a large task but it may prove to be cheaper then to rebuy all the modules again in 5U land and also you would have to custom make many if not 80% of the stuff that is not available.

The Advice would be has any one done this? what are the pitfalls? is it worth it for modules you can not get in the 5U side? Cost if its known? problems others have encountered?

Pretty much any opinion would be great. That would help in convincing me if this idea should be toyed with further or I am crazy to even think about it. I love the quality and build and LONG TERM build quality of the 5U land. The PCB on the euro side may not be worth porting over and maybe they are. Any thoughts on that is welcomed again.

Sorry for the long post but its can be complicated and should be explained as best I can.
josaka
cost a small fortune and be a logistical nightmare.. some of the euro needs different power some is just converting..
it is doable .. but I really cant see converting every module is the best option..
if you are serious.. start with some of the modules you have problems with the tuning on.. and see how that goes.. see how the cost goes.!
Dilibob
What I'm doing is converting all the fm & west cost type of things to ITB software euro modular, while moving to OTB 5u with just a small scattering of ++ so I can get a bit euroish 5u but primarily stay old school 5u. Not sure about converting, might be better off selling the euro (the ITB software is just so much easier/cheaper). The nice thing about ITB euro which is more like "mixing" then performing, is that I can bring back sessions in seconds and avoid all the hackyness. I then save my emotional connection to the 5u physical knobs, where I am going to just record patches into the daw. Not sure how my approach is going to work, will play out over the next few months. Either way 5u is some bank unless you build your own modules, the actual parts of the modules on 5u is probably cheaper then disassembling the euro, but I stopped soldering a few decades ago.
sduck
What ^josaka^ said. I've converted a few euro things to 5U, but in the end found it to be more expedient to just add on a separate euro cabinet(s).

Instead of having a large plan, you might want to consider just starting with one or two modules, see how it goes, and whether you want to continue along this path. There are a lot of factors involved - this really needs to be approached on a case by case basis.
Dave Peck
Something to keep in mind - there would be a huge difference in the amount of work required to convert some modules compared to other modules, depending on one thing - are the various panel components (jacks, switches, potentiometers, displays etc.) mounted directly to a main circuit board along with all of the other electronics? Or are these controls separate from any circuit board and connected to the board only with wires? Are they on a circuit board, but on a separate sub-board just for the panel controls apart from all of the other electronics?

If the panel controls are mounted on the main board with other parts, it will require some pretty delicate surgery to extract them and you run a risk of damaging the main board and ruining the module. If they are on a separate sub-board, it's still tricky delicate work but would only ruin that sub-board and not the main board electronics.

If you don't do any of that, and just arrange the new holes in the new MU panels to match the existing panel control footprint, you really haven't gained anything except adding wasted space around the outside perimeter of the controls. They will still be jammed together within each module as tightly as they were before.
coyoteous
It's an ultimately inefficient, uneconomical, etc. notion for me (so far), but I respect others' decisions to do so.

It's a valid pursuit and potentially part of personalizing/owning your rig(s)... I went the other way, and as of the last month or two, now have mostly vintage euro integrated in/with some of my systems.

Kind of went off on two tangents: grabbing some newer stuff like STG 4hp and two Synthtech E330s that can be powered at 15v bipolar (plus a few cheap Brazilian EMW modules), and getting some older Doepfer modules I'd toyed with the idea of converting years back (A196 PLL, A109 Curtis-based backend, etc.).

But... really jumped the tracks for vintage euro with an original Analogue Systems RS10 chassis from the mighty Blake's personal collection and excellent AS modules from him and others including the excellent RS510E EMS Synthi Trapezoid Generator and mind-bending RS310 Reverb/Chorus (sounds sometimes coolly bad/broken at some settings and also seems to be the best BBD flanger I've ever used).

Anyway, my-little-pony-euro can be a small but powerful oddball system on its own or great support/integration with my 5U, DIY and vintage semi-modulars/sequencers... might be an avenue for others.

(have a single frac rack with Blacet and Wiard that's been similarly integrated for years... currently as a faux CP row)
Thalassa
Just my two cents, if you have plans to convert a bunch of eurorack to 5U , I wouldn't even bother to make the power conversion. I would have an eurorack power supply for converted modules and other PSU for the standard 5u / mu modules. Or I would have cabinet with an Eurorack PSU for those modules.
RussiaZero23
yeah we are talking about 50+ Euro rack in the end to convert IF I thought this was doable.

I have the euro rack in its own box next to the 5U and I patch them side by side so I know what hat life is like.

I am more concerned with longevity and how well built the EuroRack stuff is for the long term.

For example in 15 years will my EuroRack modular work?
Can I repair it? Will all the jacks and those cheap ass switches still work?

Essentially we as a community build these big and expensive instruments, and I hope we all want them to last.

I have synths from the 70's that will still last another 20 years (with a little love and care). I am not sure if I can say the same for current gear today.

The main push for this madness as I believe Josaka and others in the statement that this is not easy and it will be painful. But would it be worth it in the end to have an instrument that will last 20 years of use (not abuse but normal use, not touring).

The Software rout is not valid as I moved away from that many years ago and use the computer as a giant tape machine/Digital FX unite.

The Euro rack has plenty of analog stuff thats is not really offered in the 5U unless I ask builders to build me one off models.

I may not care for the looks of eurorack systems but I can not justify converting modules based on looks alone. For me it would be to make this thing robust ans solid. Good Jacks, Solid switches, Longer throw faders, Bigger knobs and pots with good range so I am not micro-moving the knob to hit that setting.

I have no problems per say with tuning in my Eurorack system just a general lack of quality to price ratio and a feeling that it can break very easily.
RussiaZero23
Thalassa wrote:
Just my two cents, if you have plans to convert a bunch of eurorack to 5U , I wouldn't even bother to make the power conversion. I would have an eurorack power supply for converted modules and other PSU for the standard 5u / mu modules. Or I would have cabinet with an Eurorack PSU for those modules.


My thought would be use the 5U power supply and then connect that to a Voltage regulator board to regulate the +15 volts down to +12 volts and then use the same power components the euro already uses. Almost like a step down converter But given the amount of power needed it will be more then one power supply. One for 5U and one for Euro. But Both Starting from high power Transformer based Dot com standard. Just an Idea. The more I think about it The more I just wished I did not. It is a pain and would take a long time to pull off.
RussiaZero23
Dave Peck wrote:
Something to keep in mind - there would be a huge difference in the amount of work required to convert some modules compared to other modules, depending on one thing - are the various panel components (jacks, switches, potentiometers, displays etc.) mounted directly to a main circuit board along with all of the other electronics? Or are these controls separate from any circuit board and connected to the board only with wires? Are they on a circuit board, but on a separate sub-board just for the panel controls apart from all of the other electronics?

If the panel controls are mounted on the main board with other parts, it will require some pretty delicate surgery to extract them and you run a risk of damaging the main board and ruining the module. If they are on a separate sub-board, it's still tricky delicate work but would only ruin that sub-board and not the main board electronics.

If you don't do any of that, and just arrange the new holes in the new MU panels to match the existing panel control footprint, you really haven't gained anything except adding wasted space around the outside perimeter of the controls. They will still be jammed together within each module as tightly as they were before.


Yep thats exactly what we are talking about. a re design to space out the modules so that they work in the 5U world and then Surgery with a Hako808 or similar high volume Desolder gun.

Planning would be Get all Panels and material (hardware) First and then work in shifts in a line up, Desolder, Wire connection, Solder new connectors, Assemble new boards.

Total pain and would take maybe a month or 2 to plan out. Then the nightmare of sourcing all parts for the conversion.

Buying The same or Equivalent modules in 5U Should be more expensive then what I am describing. In Theory?
johny_gtr
just my 0.02

1) I have MU and Euro cases.
2) I prefer MU aesthetic but Euro creates so much interesting modules that didn't existed in MU world like new MI Marbles (complex random generator) and MI Plaits (complex digital OSC).
3) I don't really understand the difference between porting and converting. For me:
- if it's just 15v-12v, euro connector + 5U black panel instead of 3U - it's not a porting.

- if it's:

MU ergonomic: big knobs, big jacks in proper places, big buttons, MU style bulbs and LEDs - it's true.

I found some micro-mutable designs where whole project (except software) was re-designed. But I concern that it will be profitable for MU world (a much less people who will buy it).
RussiaZero23
johny_gtr wrote:
just my 0.02

1) I have MU and Euro cases.
2) I prefer MU aesthetic but Euro creates so much interesting modules that didn't existed in MU world like new MI Marbles (complex random generator) and MI Plaits (complex digital OSC).
3) I don't really understand the difference between porting and converting. For me:
- if it's just 15v-12v, euro connector + 5U black panel instead of 3U - it's not a porting.

- if it's:

MU ergonomic: big knobs, big jacks in proper places, big buttons, MU style bulbs and LEDs - it's true.

I found some micro-mutable designs where whole project (except software) was re-designed. But I concern that it will be profitable for MU world (a much less people who will buy it).


Its the Big knobs big jacks, longer throw faders, longer lasting 1/4" jacks, 1/4" cables that last 15 year+, Heavy duty full size Switches, more robust buttons available, and long lasting panels that are thick, More stable and robust power supply VS Switching power supplies with questionable wallwarts (more potential problems and some makers blame these things for the problems some users have), and last would be Style but that would be the only personal taste, and not a consideration. Style and looks is Not worth the trouble of conversion. longevity,Stability, quality from a user perspective (as in sold jack connections for one), Cleaner power are all the items that MAY be worth this trouble.

I am trying in a way to play the side of yeah this could work. I have noticed so far that most of the comments have been along the lines of "hey this is to much work and too costly and not worth the trouble just keep your systems separate"

That may be the finale resolution to this idea but I would love to be convinced other wise.
kindredlost
coyoteous wrote:
my-little-pony-euro


hihi
coyoteous
kindredlost: disclaimer... no MLPs or euro modules harmed in the late night creation of my rambling post (I actually like both, but have no adult or children's toys other than recording gear and instruments, which I actually use professionally).

RussiaZero23: read your OP and the rest of the thread (I just responded to the subject before).

I say go for it... doesn't have to be all or nothing either, right?

I'm guessing you could also just double-up with backup euro modules... maybe for less than converting.

Stating the obvious: it's kind of one of those things that is the way it is... if you just can't live the rest of your life without a particular module, better get some more and/or modify them to be more robust in use (and try not to wear them out/break them).

That's kind of how I treat my non-electronic instruments, but have some rare one-of-a-kind things that are literally irreplaceable.

Good luck!
Dave Peck
RussiaZero23 wrote:


I am more concerned with longevity and how well built the EuroRack stuff is for the long term.

For example in 15 years will my EuroRack modular work?
Can I repair it? Will all the jacks and those cheap ass switches still work?
(snip)
I may not care for the looks of eurorack systems but I can not justify converting modules based on looks alone. For me it would be to make this thing robust ans solid. Good Jacks, Solid switches, Longer throw faders, Bigger knobs and pots with good range so I am not micro-moving the knob to hit that setting.

I have no problems per say with tuning in my Eurorack system just a general lack of quality to price ratio and a feeling that it can break very easily.


In my experience, this is not a valid reason to convert from Euro to 5U format. The switches and potentiometers used in Euro are not, in general, any lesser quality than those used in the larger format. In fact they are often the exact same parts.

Now, the JACKS, of course may be a legitimate issue because there are some 1/8" jacks that are not very well designed or built and do not perform as well as the typical large 1/4" jacks. But if any of your modules have that issue you could address it by replacing them with a good quality 1/8" jack. No need to change formats just to get a better performing jack.

Also, the issue of tiny fiddly knobs - this can be addressed in many cases just by putting a larger diameter plastic knob on the existing potentiometer, as long as there is space between adjacent controls to do so. Regarding 'good range', keep in mind that the 'range' of any control won't change regardless if you keep it in Euro format or convert it to 5U. The 'range' would only change if you replace some resistors & potentiometers with new parts that have a different resistance value and that is not a matter of physical size.

Having said all of that, there ARE some cases where it can make sense to convert to 5U. For example I have a MOTM E350 Morphing Terrarium that was converted to 5U (see below) and the conversion also adds new CV level pots that the Euro version didn't have, and it brings some hidden PCB jumpers out to new front panel switches. Note how this was all done - by removing the various front panel controls from their PCB pads and replacing them with new panel-mounted parts (and replacing the 1/8" jacks with new 1/4" jacks of course) that are connected to the old PCB via wire harnesses which plug onto new Molex headers that have been installed on the old PCB solder pads.

But not all Euro modules have a PCB layout that would be conducive to doing this, as discussed above. It's likely that you'd only be able to successfully convert a small percentage of your Euro modules and the rest would have some deal breaker in the design that would make it impossible or impractical.



Dr Gris
Wow!!!!!!
A MOTM E350 love

//M
bwhittington
I'd love to admire your synth when/if this project were finished, but my perspective when I nix similar ideas of mine is that I could spend the next few years with my ultimate building project or I could spend that time playing my synth. In my case, I pick the latter.

Also, for the costs involved, you possibly should compare it to the cost of just buying additional units of the Euro modules you can't live without in case they ever fail to counter your longevity argument.

I think the main reason to do this would be if you are just the kind of guy that likes to do this sort of thing. Deriving enjoyment from the process is only thing that would sway the cost/benefit analysis for me (considering both time and money). But when you start a thread documenting your project, I'll eagerly await every post. love
ersatzplanet
I would start with ONLY the modules you can't get equivalents for. Like bwhittington says above, the process would be for only someone that loves to do the DIY stuff. The logistics would not be that hard. I would think about using a panel made from right angle extrusions (Onlinemetals has them) or bent sheetmetal, and mount the PCB to the side behind the front panel. Remove all pots and jacks and wire them to the front panel ones you want (or use as many as you can from the original). As for power, you can make and mount a little PCB that converts the standard 5U connections to Euro power and mount next to the original PCB.

With the current trend in Euro to make Skiff-friendly modules, most of the current crop of modules have PCBs parallel to the front panels and the jacks and pots are all mounted to the same PCBs. This makes it very hard to still use the PCBs that way because the 1/4" jacks are MUCH taller than the 3.5mm ones they are replacing and the pots will no longer reach the front panels. The only way to really do it is to unsolder all of them and wire to remote mounted components.

I think that using conversion patch cords or panels would be MUCH easier but of course that doesn't address the problems you have with the EU format.
RussiaZero23
bwhittington wrote:
I'd love to admire your synth when/if this project were finished, but my perspective when I nix similar ideas of mine is that I could spend the next few years with my ultimate building project or I could spend that time playing my synth. In my case, I pick the latter.

Also, for the costs involved, you possibly should compare it to the cost of just buying additional units of the Euro modules you can't live without in case they ever fail to counter your longevity argument.

I think the main reason to do this would be if you are just the kind of guy that likes to do this sort of thing. Deriving enjoyment from the process is only thing that would sway the cost/benefit analysis for me (considering both time and money). But when you start a thread documenting your project, I'll eagerly await every post. love


Out of all the good advice and all of you had some thing good to bring to this discussion this one here hit home the most.

Deriving enjoyment from this process and the time spent building the rocket ship VS flying the rocket ship.

I looked at my parts table and all the unfinished projects that still need to be finished. There is a 1973 Oberhiem two voice still on the surgery table and it has not played a note in about a year now. It hit home. I would have fun designing the front panels and coming up with the look of it, but Desoldiering what would be close to 500 jacks and knobs and all the time that NO music would be made mean while we have the Old Sick to tend to with a Prophet-10 and OB-Xa that need some work. The Idea and the Dream is slowly turning to mist.

I have had a slew of eurorack stuff that broke recently and or I had to send out to get fixed so that and how good the 5U gear feels got this idea in my head. I spent most of my night De-soldering 20 trim pots and re-soldered 20 more in there place and it would be like that for weeks if not months to get them all done.

Maybe some one can point me to some software I can use on a Macintosh that allows accurate editing to make Front panel Design. I will make all the panels design first in the computer for my euro stuff on spare time then and make music (or noise) the main focus for now.

I would not find the progress fun just the end result. DIY for me was always about well I can not get the item because it was not available or to poor to buy it so I'll build it my self. I have the equipment just not the desire.

Drilling holes is easy for me, Slots for faders not easy at all. Silkscreen does not look to hard after you get a rig made up. All that time and planning and nothing gets made with the equipment in the time of transitioning.

I want to thank all for the discussion, That Motm E350 came out what I was thinking about but for Dot Com MU panel widths. Great job on it.

I may revisit this again but I'll start just creating all the panels first in the computer and then re-evaluate if I get an urge to create in reality the manifestation that's on the computer screen.

Hope this thread helps other with the same desire or curiosity.
sduck
Some euro stuff that I've converted to 5U:

Through Hole Clouds front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

Radio Music front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

Neutron Sound Orgone Accumulator front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

Thonk Music Thing Dual Spring Reverb front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

MOTM e580 front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

Synthesis Technology e560 front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

Motm e340 front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

SCMRCD front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

MOTM e350 Morphing Terrarium front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

so as you can see it's all possible.
RussiaZero23
This is amazing work and you are an excellent photographer.

Your flickr page shows even more of your custom work. sduck What did you use to design the front panels?
What manner did you use to do the graphics on the panels? They looked etched.

This is right along the lines of the end result I would like but may not have the time to do. Sduck any idea on the time it took on average to gather parts and the wire work (the JRK mirror VCO was amazing wire work)
Rex Coil 7
Member *RussiaZero23 .... I've already done what you're talking about. Actually, I am knee deep in the middle of it. I've even done the much easier thing which is repaneling about 14 Dot Com modules into even MORE durable modules than 5U generally is. I've completely redesigned VCOs, VCOs mixer and aid modules, filters, filter mixers, and made a quad Ring Modulator system. All using over-engineered switches, and added a lot (a LOT) of additional controls and switches .... 69 (sixty nine) additional switches I have added.

And all I've done is simply repanelled some Dot Com modules. So I have done the easy thing, compared to what you're asserting. I can assure you just the design work will take a LOT longer than a couple of months. You said something about reformatting roughly 50 modules, yea? Ok, unless you have absolutely nothing else going on in your life and you are able to devote 12+ hours per day ... every day .... you're looking at most likely one or two YEARS of design work, engineering everything to work together, and fabrication of the entire works. Not to mention redoing some things that you weren't happy with the first time around ... and that WILL happen.

Panels are going to run you about $40 to $140 each, depending on size and how deep the lettering and graphics go. While you're in there, you may as well shitcan whatever power system you have going on and uprate to a "real" power supply and power distribution system. That alone is going to take you a good two months. If you want an apex system (top of the heap, that will last two or three decades, that is fully serviceable) going with top shelf power and power distribution is an absolute MUST DO.

You're going to need to design and fabricate a cabinet (or cabinets) as well. I mean .... you want an apex predator rig, right? Well, why not go full throttle on the cabs?

Total time just sourcing all of the parts you'll need will add up to at least a month.

I spent fifteen years figuring up estimates for repairs, you'd be surprised how much time and effort does in to just sourcing, ordering, receiving parts.

This panel took me 6 weeks to design and get it to where I want it (there's actually two of these) ... granted some of that time was devoted to learning how to use Front Panel Designer, I had never used it before.



And I don't have to do a whole pile of soldering, just twenty switches, twelve pots, and twelve jacks per panel. The rest are already set up to connect to the Dot Com circuit boards using the existing AMP connectors.



Those two panels (they are identical) contain two Q106 VCOS, two Q141 VCO Aid modules, and two Q161 VCO mixer modules for each one. Plus twenty additional switches for each one not available on the stock modules.

The cabinet alone took three weeks to complete ... actually probably five when I count in the installation of eighty T-nuts, all of the glueing and wood filling, as well as applying the finish.





That was alot of work! And there's still a lot more to go. I still have a second cabinet to get done that attaches to the left side of this Main one. The other one is a 12U rack cab that I've modified the hell out of to become an additional 16 spaces of 5U plus housing the power supply for the entire thing. That 12U can also needs it's own set of bus bars, which are also hand made! I haven't even talked about power cables for the modules yet, either.

I'm not attempting to talk you out of doing what it is you wish to do, I'm just trying to throw some reality at you.

I would sell off the Euro modules that can be replaced with bona fide 5U modules, then put the super trick Euro modules in new cases that better serve the 5U stuff ... and create a hybrid system. To obtain longer control throws and higher quality controls to manipulate your Euro modules, make 5U controller modules that patch up to the Euro stuff. That way you'd use 5U pots/switches/jacks to create your patches and put your hands on. This would reduce the wear/tear on the Euro modules' more fragile components. As well as provide you with more accurate controllers.

Think about what possibilities you can come up with by normalizing some of these Euro modules to 5U panels that use larger controls (pots, switches, jacks). Think of the 5U as "remote controllers" for the Euro stuff, and just use the Euro PCBs on their stock panels.

But, since you asked the 5U folks (of which I am a part of) ... I'd sell off the Euro modules that can be replaced with 5U modules, and the Euro that cannot be replaced mount in more convenient cabinets that allow efficient interfacing with 5U modules. My own 5U synth has no envelopes, no LFOs. Alllll of my lfos and envelopes are all Euro. So are nearly all of the more eccentric modulator, mixing, and VCAs ... plus joysticks, light strips, and so on. There is NOTHING like the MATHS in 5U, which is precisely why I have two of them. Get the picture?

I admire the shit out of your ambition. But, look yourself in the mirror and realistically assess whether or not you'd actually make it all the way through such a huge undertaking such as the one you're describing. Would you become burned out on the project half way through? If so, how would you sell a bunch of torn apart, desoldered, unfinished Euro modules that are bagged up and in a hundred pieces? See where I'm at here?

Only YOU know you. Only YOU can assess whether or not you'd actually complete building an eight engined airplane made entirely of wood (reference to Howard Hughes). Me? I'd never even entertain doing what you've described because I do not believe I would ever get it done.

Just the little adventure I've delved into with my own synth project is a giant undertaking. At least for me it is.

In any case .... best of luck!

Fin~ thumbs up
sduck
RussiaZero23 wrote:
What did you use to design the front panels?
What manner did you use to do the graphics on the panels? They looked etched.

This is right along the lines of the end result I would like but may not have the time to do. Sduck any idea on the time it took on average to gather parts and the wire work (the JRK mirror VCO was amazing wire work)


Thanks!
I use Front Panel Express, and their free software. https://www.frontpanelexpress.com

About the time involved, it varies widely. Things like the e350 repanel I can knock out in an evening or two once I have all the parts. The Mirror Core one and the Living VCOs took more than a week, maybe 2, but I'm just part time, maybe an hour or two in the evenings when I'm not working otherwise.
Rex Coil 7
(Yea, but Steve you're a missile pilot when it comes to knocking out truly bitchin builds in a night at the bench!!)

Smash! Cwejman! Driving Checkered Flag

What I wonder about is how many duplicate Euro modules he has going on. If there aren't many, he'll be saddled with having to work out different configurations for nearly 50 different modules, one at a time, each one different.

Issues such as how the PCBs will be mounted will need to be worked out on any Euro modules that use the control components to secure the PCB to the panel once he desolders those parts to replace them with man sized pots, switches, and jacks. There's going to be a lot of flying leads ... equates to time.

Power cables can take up a lot of time as well.

So it's not really the construction that might hold up progress, but the re-engineering of eleventy five different little nagging issues.



very frustrating
ersatzplanet
sduck wrote:

I use Front Panel Express, and their free software. https://www.frontpanelexpress.com



Front Panel Express for the win every time. I have made a few panels through them and they were perfect each time. They are milled so oddball slots and shaped holes are easy. You want slide pots? No problem for them. The software will quote you the prices too. They used to only offer front panel text as milled into the panel (unfilled or filled in different colors as shown) but now there do Photoetched graphics. I don't know how well that works with the black backgrounds typically used in 5U, but it isn't technically impossible to do. Just use a silver panel and make inverted graphics.
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> 5U Format Modules Goto page 1, 2  Next [all]
Page 1 of 2
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group