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Easiest solder to use and clean?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8  Next [all]
Author Easiest solder to use and clean?
cleaninglady
I tell you what ; if we are still banging on in this forum in 15 years time , I'll let you know if anything has died. Until then , i doubt i'm going to clean up diddly squat. Consider me the test case... Dead Banana
decaying.sine
raisinbag wrote:
Haha maybe you can use a jerk crossfader to switch between eyes with the stereo mic(roscope).

Anyway I'm all freaked out about all the crap I have built over the years pooching out on me. I don't really want to take it back to resistors and caps, and am hoping if I clean a board a week I can clean it all up with alcohol and a scrub. I mostly have guitar pedals, as the synth thing is kinda the new thing for me, so luckily I haven't got myself into too much trouble.

Ha let me know what you see with your scope. I think you make new things to add to your giant list. razz


Will do. Sometimes I eat the rosin jelly. Dead Banana
limpmeat
I've been having bad luck with the duratech solder from jaycar.

Is there better solder available in Aus? I can't seem to find this kester brand anywhere...
cleaninglady
limpmeat wrote:
I've been having bad luck with the duratech solder from jaycar.

Is there better solder available in Aus? I can't seem to find this kester brand anywhere...


That's strange , i find that stuff incredibly easy to work with ; great flow , nice shiny joints every time. Seems very clean to me after soldering too.

Are you using the Yellow Label (60% Lead/40% Tin) or the Green Lead Free ? I'm using the Lead one.

I've googled for Kester , the best i can find is buying from Amazon but i have no idea about shipping cost.
limpmeat
I get a lot of problems with flux inclusion and dull joints. As well as the flux being really stubborn to clean off.

Pretty sure it's the 60/40.
raisinbag
So for you dude/ dudettes using 331 and 245, what temp do you set your irons too? I have between 30 and 85f to choose from and use a fine conical tip. Just curious what the best temp is as it has less lead than I am used to.
Monobass
what's the consensus on washing electrolytic caps?
raisinbag
I hope it's ok. I wash them all the time. Didn't know there could be any issue seriously, i just don't get it I hope there isn't.
Monobass
I've read nothing on Muffs to suggest there is an issue, or know nothing to say there is, just asking thumbs up
raisinbag
Ok. I just MY ASS IS BLEEDING and panicked when I read that. hihi
woodster
Any UK/EU alternatives to the Kester 331 and 245 ?
Can't seem to find Kester in the UK.
Monobass
raisinbag wrote:
Ok. I just MY ASS IS BLEEDING and panicked when I read that. hihi


Sorry, I sympathise smile
Monobass
woodster wrote:
Any UK/EU alternatives to the Kester 331 and 245 ?
Can't seem to find Kester in the UK.


I just bought 1lb of each, I'll tear you off some woody.
daverj
You could always check the data sheet for a specific capacitor brand. I think most aluminum caps are fine with washing in water and specific solvents (like alcohol and flux cleaners). There are of course solvents that are bad for caps, and other electronics.

Some caps are spec'd as washable. Some might not be. Having data sheets is one advantage of buying known name brand parts.

I randomly picked a specific Panasonic cap and it's tech specs said washing in a specific list of solvents for up to 5 minutes (ultrasonic or not) at 60C, followed by rinsing, and then drying for up to 20 minutes at 100C were all fine. It then also gave a list of generic solvent types that are bad, and what they can do to caps.

It also said something to the effect of "on capacitors that are specified as washable..." so I gather there might be ones that are not washable.
Monobass
cheers Dave, I do only buy brand name parts so I'm just being lazy I guess smile
leeski
thanks we're not worthy
batchas
sduck wrote:
Throw the 44 away. Or just use it for repairing copper pipes.

I use Kester 331 (mouser part 533-24-6337-6401) for soldering basic parts onto the pcb - this is the water soluble kind - wash it off with hot water when you're done. Don't use it for parts that can't be water washed - use your common sense on this.
And then Kester 245 (mouser part 533-24-6337-8800) for everything else.

These are the kinds that both Paul Schreiber of MOTM and John Blacet of blacet supply with their kits.

Do you know if these references can maybe also be found at Mouser in smaller lengthes / shorter, for less than $160? I could not find it.
Kester 331 (mouser part 533-24-6337-6401)
Kester 245 (mouser part 533-24-6337-8800)
daverj
batchas wrote:
sduck wrote:
Throw the 44 away. Or just use it for repairing copper pipes.

I use Kester 331 (mouser part 533-24-6337-6401) for soldering basic parts onto the pcb - this is the water soluble kind - wash it off with hot water when you're done. Don't use it for parts that can't be water washed - use your common sense on this.
And then Kester 245 (mouser part 533-24-6337-8800) for everything else.

These are the kinds that both Paul Schreiber of MOTM and John Blacet of blacet supply with their kits.

Do you know if these references can maybe also be found at Mouser in smaller lengthes / shorter, for less than $160? I could not find it.
Kester 331 (mouser part 533-24-6337-6401)
Kester 245 (mouser part 533-24-6337-8800)


1 pound rolls is the standard for industrial rolls of solder. Small quantities are often repackaged by hobbiest companies at inflated prices, though seem cheaper since you only get a tiny amount of solder.

There are some industrial distributors that have lower prices on solder than Digikey and Mouser. I'm not sure which ones are in your area. Plus they usually have minimum purchase amounts, so you'll still have to spend a chunk of money there.
joshuagoran
Kester 245
Kester 331

This is the best price I have found!
Psychlist1972
I order all my solder and flux and other supplies from All Spec

http://www.all-spec.com/

I've found them to typically have better prices than Amazon, plus a much wider selection, great service, and fast shipping.

Pete
batchas
joshuagoran wrote:
Kester 245
Kester 331

This is the best price I have found!

They do not ship these to Europe! I found out when checking out, after spending x hours on searching other things to group the buy!!! d'oh!
batchas
Psychlist1972 wrote:
I order all my solder and flux and other supplies from All Spec

http://www.all-spec.com/

I've found them to typically have better prices than Amazon, plus a much wider selection, great service, and fast shipping.

Pete

Amazon have Kester 245 for $27.49 and Kester 331 for $24.49!!!!
$93.79 and $65.88 at allspec.com
$65,81 And $101.84 at mouser.com
steffensen
batchas wrote:
joshuagoran wrote:
Kester 245
Kester 331

This is the best price I have found!

They do not ship these to Europe! I found out when checking out, after spending x hours on searching other things to group the buy!!! d'oh!


Been looking for Kester K100LD to be shipped to EU. Spent about 5months off and on doing this, still no luck.
I guess our best option here is Stannol?
M-Circus
To revert to the cleaning process a little bit, I have a couple of more questions:

First of all: If I understand this correctly, the critical thing here is getting the flux off the pcb itself, not the parts you've soldered on. Am I right? I also understand that rinsing it in water (provided you've been using that kind of solder/flux) won't do. There has to be scrubbing involved. Are we talking light scrubbing with a softish toothbrush, or something more serious? Main concern being how much of a beating a pcb can handle.

And secondly: Am I right in believing the cleaning process will have to be taken care of within a certain amount of time after soldering (a couple of days or so?). If so, how do you go about it when doing bigger projects? The upcoming TTSH project springs to mind. With my current schedule, that thing will probably take me weeks, possible more than a month to build. Do I just scrub it down every other day then, or is this something i can leave until I'm done with soldering all such components?

Is this Kestler solder we're discussing lead or lead free btw? Need to score some myself, but a bit uncertain if I dare go the lead free way.
Monobass
just going from how it looks visibly, a soft toothbrush seems to do the job fine.
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