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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

building a diy modcan case?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> 5U Format Modules Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next [all]
Author building a diy modcan case?
dude
a single row

is this possible?

first questions:

paint matching?

need steel rails for funky grounding scheme for older modules

many questions
dude
polykobol?

analogcrafstman?


i know this has been done. pictures?

i am trying to explore
JohnLRice
If you can build a rectangular wooden box the rails should be easy since you can use standard rack rails mounted vertically. thumbs up

Only $14 for a pair of 12U rails below:
http://www.audiopile.net/HR-001

Although if you can try to buy the rails locally (Guitar Center etc) since sometimes certain batches of rails regardless of brand might not have perfect right angles and could make your modular look a little funky since the screw heads wouldn't sit flush. Take a small combination square with you to check the angles.


I'm not sure how far away they are from you but Parts Express is in Springboro, OH and they have a retail store and will call etc there:
https://www.parts-express.com/locations
$18 for a pair of 12U rails:
https://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-r0828-12-12-space-full-hole-r ack-rail-pair-12u-21--262-390

Here's a couple pictures of a Modcan panel mounted to a short rail from Audiopile (excuse the big honkin' thumb screws, they were the closest ones in reach oops )


dude
eek!

so i guess i have my kludge case already here at least until i figure out perma-solution.

the trouble with standard rack rails unless i'm wrong about conductivity is that they are painted but maybe it would work anyways? i know the old modcan grounding was weird and some of these modules will be old i'm sure.

i called a couple paint stores and went to one (i happened to be in one) hihi
nobody seems to be able to make sense of the color code shared up here:
sherwin williams alkyd enammel White Base - GV008 - OK006.5 - SV027.5

baby steps.

Homer Simpson Marge Simpson
dude
i think i'm going for
these

the ones i have upstairs seem to have a pretty big lip and i'm thinking that will be evident slightly above and below mounted modules. i'm hoping these ones are smaller? they look smaller from pics?
dude
john, do you know a/the part number for the modcan distro 3 pin power connector?

and what do you think of these hosa cables?
JohnLRice
dude wrote:
i think i'm going for
these

the ones i have upstairs seem to have a pretty big lip and i'm thinking that will be evident slightly above and below mounted modules. i'm hoping these ones are smaller? they look smaller from pics?
While they may look smaller in the picture, I think they are all pretty much the same?

Anyways, HOLD THE PHONE! This is fun! I just remembered about these rails that are made for MOTM (and Modcan B) modules and will make your case look a lot nicer:
http://synthcube.com/cart/motm-6-module-cabinet-mounting-rails-pair?se arch=rails&description=true



Twice as expensive since you'll need two pairs plus more work to install since you'll need to create a recessed wood rail for these to attach to but it will look better when you are done since no "unsightly rail bulge" eek! lol will be showing like there would be with standard rack rails.
JohnLRice
dude wrote:
john, do you know a/the part number for the modcan distro 3 pin power connector?

Mouser #: 571-3-640426-3
Mfr. #:
3-640426-3
Mfr.:
TE Connectivity / AMP
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/3-640426-3?qs =sGAEpiMZZMs%252bGHln7q6pm48SVpWlpfsEPBvcCef2ZfA%3d

But . . . what distribution board are you going to use? If it's a Synth Tech MOTM type with 4 pin headers and you need power cables that are 4 pin MOTM on one end and 3 pin Modcan on the other, PM me since I have a bunch of cables like that I'm not using! w00t

dude wrote:
what do you think of these hosa cables?
I have some of those and to be fair I need to do more extensive testing but they were having connectivity issues with some modules so I banished them all to a storage box. Seemed like the tips weren't shaped right for certain modules and weren't staying in all the way or something. meh angry
JohnLRice
Or if I misunderstood and you are going to make your own distro board, here is the part number for the male headers:

Mouser #: 571-6404453
Mfr. #: 640445-3
Mfr.: TE Connectivity / AMP
dude
distro is as yet a bit unclear but either modcan distro or a facsimile via stg distro with 3 pin connectors populated. so i guess standard modcan is the answer.

i need a power supply too. was thinking of ebay but maybe someone has a power one laying about?
Blake Smith
[quote="JohnLRice"]
dude wrote:
i think i'm going for
these

Anyways, HOLD THE PHONE! This is fun! I just remembered about these rails that are made for MOTM (and Modcan B) modules and will make your case look a lot nicer:
http://synthcube.com/cart/motm-6-module-cabinet-mounting-rails-pair?se arch=rails&description=true



Twice as expensive since you'll need two pairs plus more work to install since you'll need to create a recessed wood rail for these to attach to but it will look better when you are done since no "unsightly rail bulge" eek! lol will be showing like there would be with standard rack rails.


I'll second those flat rails, I just built a new case because my original got too small and I used those. They're great.
dude
i may end up with those if i can ever get all the modules and get a case finished.
dude
"rails" are supposed to arrive today.



for years the only modcan in my house was this knob i used on the burr grinder

dude
i'm thinking about external power supply to simplify case. my old modular had that and it is more stuff to move but also better weight distribution and gives some use for those bananas laying about. need more banana jacks though.
JohnLRice
dude wrote:
"rails" are supposed to arrive today.
Which rails did you decide on?
dude
i think i went for those mispurposed ones i first linked. they looked "thinnest" and i found the right angle measurer in my sdiy pile so i will measure that on arrival and send back if they aren't square.
dude
actually they are not out for delivery today. so other work to be done.
dude
do you know any kinda beefy feet to use on bottom for rubbery gumption?
JohnLRice
dude wrote:
do you know any kinda beefy feet to use on bottom for rubbery gumption?
I lub dese rubbers:
http://www.audiopile.net/HC011
dude
thank you as always for food for thought....lunchtime
dude
so i'm thinking of this as project "lil'chunk"

this is

a: because 7 modules tiny but a lot of functionalosityness

b: i think i'm going to go for really thick (maybe 2") tree slabs
dude
and i wonder what you think:

i'm leaning on an external power supply to sit on floor...this leaves more flexibility with the depth of the case.

i'm thinking 8"deep as shallowest possible and i'm thinking 10 or 11 as largest but probably overkill

i'm trying to remember what was the deepest module from module list and that can pretty much be the dictating factor aside from the distro mounted back there.

what do you think?
Rex Coil 7
dude wrote:
distro is as yet a bit unclear but either modcan distro or a facsimile via stg distro with 3 pin connectors populated. so i guess standard modcan is the answer.

i need a power supply too. was thinking of ebay but maybe someone has a power one laying about?
BUY MINE!!!!!!! (signature).
dude
rails arrived. i think they'll be thin enough


but the angle isn't quite 90 degrees


hoping it's close enough to kludge in inoffensive aesthetic manner. i did find my old conductive rail tape so grounding won't be an issue. and i'm also wondering about which orientation of rails will be the most "sightly". will have to try both orientations once a couple modules arrive.
JohnLRice
I think the main issue with rails not being perfect right angles is that the screws won't go in perfectly perpendicular to the panel so the screw heads will will have a tendency to dig into the panel on one side panel, causing exaggerated rack rash. zombie Use washers just in case. thumbs up

And if you want to get a bit fancy and hide the excess "rail bulge" you could recess the rails back a 1/4" and then glue a 1/4" strip of wood top and bottom to hide the rail completely. (1/4" is just a number I pulled out of my ass oops and you may need 1/2" or some other size for it to work well). If you have wood working skills and tools you could just route/dado/chisel/care out a recess in the main top and bottom pieces of the case?
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