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DeOxit D100L - good for mixers and Odyssey?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author DeOxit D100L - good for mixers and Odyssey?
Rex Coil 7
Hey there Hi there Ho there ...

So I live in the desert southwest. We have cats. Even though I cover all of my gear with large garbage bags and a towel on top of the bags, ~stuffs~ still manages to get onto/into my gear. Especially gear with linear pots ("slider pots" ... "faders"). I have an Odyssey and three mixers all with linear pots. ~Yes~ there are the dust brushes on each slide pot, but stuff still gets in there.

I've read a little about DeOxit D100L. The "L" meaning liquid, opposed to aerosol. Is that stuff worth buying as a lube and cleaner for linear pots? There's one type of packing they offer that has a nice application needle attached to the bottle top (reminds me of when I used to put "3 in 1" oil in my slot cars when I was a young'n ... slot cars were such a blast, and a really nice social toy as well since it usually involved other kids). Anyhow ...

So is DeOxit D100 a good thing, or does it just make the situation worse by allowing ~teh crudz~ to attach/stick to the workings and just make it all more badder like?

I use DeOxit D5 on all three of my wife and my vintage Hammonds, works well on the drawbars. But I've never had any experience with D100 ("L" or no bloody "L").

Any help? Experience? Suggestions of other/better stuff to use for maintaining slide pots?

cool Thanks!
BugBrand
Caig (Deoxit company) has confused me in the past but I think you want the F range rather than the D range:::

Quote:
DeoxIT® D-Series contact cleaner is a fast-acting deoxidizing solution that cleans, protects, lubricates and improves conductivity on all metal connectors and contacts.
Use as a general treatment for connectors, contacts and other metal surfaces, and on non-critical metal surfaces with severe oxidation and corrosion. If the metal surface is discolored, it is severe. DeoxIT® dissolves the contamination and protects the surface.


Quote:
DeoxIT® Fader F-Series is a precision lubricant specifically formulated to improve conductivity and lubricate conductive plastic and carbon compound faders, switches and other similar components
Rex Coil 7
BugBrand wrote:
Caig (Deoxit company) has confused me in the past but I think you want the F range rather than the D range:::

Quote:
DeoxIT® D-Series contact cleaner is a fast-acting deoxidizing solution that cleans, protects, lubricates and improves conductivity on all metal connectors and contacts.
Use as a general treatment for connectors, contacts and other metal surfaces, and on non-critical metal surfaces with severe oxidation and corrosion. If the metal surface is discolored, it is severe. DeoxIT® dissolves the contamination and protects the surface.


Quote:
DeoxIT® Fader F-Series is a precision lubricant specifically formulated to improve conductivity and lubricate conductive plastic and carbon compound faders, switches and other similar components
I did not know this. Here's to the power of open discussion within a forum!

thumbs up
Rex Coil 7
Confused ... spinning

There is F100L-25C (a kind of black or otherwise dark color)
LINK = https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAIG-DeoxIT-FaderLube-F100L-25C-100-Solution- 25mL/302513351700?epid=2256128081&hash=item466f336c14:g:UtQAAOSwCcZZ~R z7

And F100L-L25C (not dark colored, very GREEN colored ... note the extra "L" in the part number as well).
LINK = https://www.ebay.com/itm/DeoxIT-F100L-L25C-FaderLube-Needle-Dispenser- 25ml/332449965373?epid=4014478850&hash=item4d678fe53d:g:SIwAAOSwovNaC1 aJ

Which one is the one to use?

(Either way the stuff is expensive ... over $30.00 for 25 ML ... geez! ... good thing a little bit will last a long time).

seriously, i just don't get it
Reckless_Experimenter
looks like it just maybe a typing error by the e-bay seller
by going to the mfg. website there is only one liquid
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1746/.f?sc=2&category=293

the e-bay price is better then direct from the mfg. go figure.
Rex Coil 7
Reckless_Experimenter wrote:
looks like it just maybe a typing error by the e-bay seller
by going to the mfg. website there is only one liquid
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1746/.f?sc=2&category=293

the e-bay price is better then direct from the mfg. go figure.
Nope ... not a typo. Those are part numbers that are actually printed on the bottles.

Click the eBay links I provided again, use the mouse magnifier (hover over the picture) ... the two different part numbers are clearly visible on the different bottles. There are a number of ads for the "extra L" versions as well as a number of ads for the "not extra L" versions.

eek!

And prices lower than the manufacturer is business as usual. That's true with nearly everything. Go look at any synth at the manufacturer's webpage. See the price ... then go look at Sweetwater (or whatever) for the same item ... lower price. It's actually common practice. That's why we say "retail" and "street price" ... because they're not the same, with the manufacturer ("retail") nearly always being higher.

seriously, i just don't get it
BugBrand
I'd take ebay images with a pinch of salt (library stock - might not always be the most exact).
I think all F100 (or is it F100L?!) is green - might just be the bottle/picture that is making it look black to you.

But, yes, the various different codes & the listing on the Caig site do get quite confusing! Have a read there and check some of the datasheets (more possibility for confusion there - I know I found it before!)
Rex Coil 7
BugBrand wrote:
I'd take ebay images with a pinch of salt (library stock - might not always be the most exact).
I think all F100 (or is it F100L?!) is green - might just be the bottle/picture that is making it look black to you.

But, yes, the various different codes & the listing on the Caig site do get quite confusing! Have a read there and check some of the datasheets (more possibility for confusion there - I know I found it before!)
I'm not concerned about the color .... I simply present my observations, one never knows if it's just the image itself (lighting etc), or actually a different formula that been dyed differently to make telling them apart more certain. So I offer my observations to (perhaps) get an explanation from a forum member (which is, after all, the reason for sharing these things in the first place).

What concerns me more is the inconsistent part numbers on the labels. For instance, I use a special zinc crystal impregnated gas tight paste on many electrical terminations and connections inside of my modular synth, it's called OxGard. They too use different part numbers on the exact same product over time ... maybe just to update the packaging (as some manufacturers do sometimes ... "same great XYZ product in our NEW BOX!!"). But when we're talking about chemicals used for various purposes, it can be a bit unnerving when the part numbers suddenly change. First thing I think is "which part number is the ~best~ formula? ... and are these eBay vendors selling off really old stock that has gone sour? Is the older part number the old stuff that has been sitting on the shelf for six years and has separated inside of the container? Is the new part number fresher? Is the old part number risky since it may be NOS and gone sour sitting in the warehouse? OR is the old part number actually better (like certain motor oils for use in older motorcycles ... you do NOT want to use any of these newfangled "Extra Slippery" oils with new additives because it makes the clutch on an older bike slip horribly). And which one is the new one, which one is the old one?"

It's maddening sometimes. Most of the time it turns out to be a big fat nothing. For instance when OxGard changed the part number on the zinc impregnated gas tight paste, all the new number designated was the content amount in the tube. So "OxGard 400" only meant it was a 4oz tube of it. "OxGard" (without the 400 or 800) is still the exact same stuff .. and it's not that there are pallets of the "old formula" (which it isn't) that eBay vendors are trying to sell off ... it's just a stupid update on the packaging. So this "extra L" thing on the DeOxit may also be a big old fat ass nothin'.







I use OxGard on the bus bars in my modular where the power cables for each module connect to the bus bar itself, I also use it where jacks make contact with the module panel to insure solid contact and keep oxidation from forming between the contact surfaces ...









Then again, it may be that the "extra L" formula has super special goo mixed into the chemistry that makes your gear produce sound that will instantly make your recordings hit songs, and you'll become immediately obscenely wealthy and loved by all across the lands, and hot women will slingshot their panties at you while you perform on stage.

Or it could be they just stuck an extra "L" on the bottle now.

lol

But this type of thing can make you crazy when you need to maintain your precious vintage gear. It's like Hammond oil ... the stuff that is put into the tonewheel generator about once every four to six months depending on how often you play. I've found some of it to be nothing more than lighter fluid repackaged into 8oz bottles and relabeled. Then again, there is the real deal Hammond tonewheel generator oil. It's easy to tell the difference once in hand. One is flammable and easily set afire with a BIC lighter. The other is not. Clearly the repackaged lighter fluid is the stuff that flashes into flames when you hit it with your BIC.

So .. hopefully this "L" thing will get sorted out soon enough, maybe even within this thread! We certainly don't want to be putting something into our precious vintage gear that the manufacturer discovered destroys some component of one type or another in vintage linear pots (as an example) and changed the formula, and the part number, to prevent the problem.

Know whudduh mean Vern?

thumbs up
flts
If you look at the first auction it actually says in the description: "Caig part number #F100L-L25C" even though the auction title says F100L-25C. Both auctions also say "Formerly known as CaiLube MCL".

My guess is that it's exactly the same formulation and package size that both retailers sell. One of the sellers is just using eg. an older stock photo for the package than the other, and an older code for the same stuff in the auction title. Whether they also ship a "new old stock" package or a new package (the one on the second auction is the current package I think) I have no idea of but I think the two part numbers in the same auction seems to hint in the fact that it's just an older and current part number of the same product.
Rex Coil 7
flts wrote:
If you look at the first auction it actually says in the description: "Caig part number #F100L-L25C" even though the auction title says F100L-25C. Both auctions also say "Formerly known as CaiLube MCL".

My guess is that it's exactly the same formulation and package size that both retailers sell. One of the sellers is just using eg. an older stock photo for the package than the other, and an older code for the same stuff in the auction title. Whether they also ship a "new old stock" package or a new package (the one on the second auction is the current package I think) I have no idea of but I think the two part numbers in the same auction seems to hint in the fact that it's just an older and current part number of the same product.
I did what you recommended ... and I think you're right about that. nodnod

Thanks to you and to Member *BugBrand for bringing clarity to this issue. I started out with believing DeOxit D100 was the right substance ... but thanks to you and *BugBrand I now know which formula to purchase to take care of my gear.

To punctuate the importance of this matter for those of us that live in the Arizona Desert Southwest .... this is what we deal with sometimes (actual photo of one of our famous dust storms) .....

TheDegenerateElite
The liquid stuff in the small bottle with metal applicator needles, 25ml, size are great.

I use the standard for normal cleaning and resto of stuff, the Fader for mixers and slide pots, and the gold for older jacks like on my Paia stuff.


The Fader has cleaner and lube in it. The gold has a metal protectant/oxidation inhibitor that helps some contacts after you've cleaned them with the normal stuff.

Use a small brush like the ones Caig sells for inside jacks. A 25 pack of those will last a long time.

Don't worry so much about the price Rex, those 25ml bottle will last you a long damn time. I've barely used 1/4 of mine in 3-4 years of working on vintage gear.

I would order it directly from Caigs website though and not on eBay. Get the real fresh stuff that way.
Rex Coil 7
TheDegenerateElite wrote:
The liquid stuff in the small bottle with metal applicator needles, 25ml, size are great.

I use the standard for normal cleaning and resto of stuff, the Fader for mixers and slide pots, and the gold for older jacks like on my Paia stuff.


The Fader has cleaner and lube in it. The gold has a metal protectant/oxidation inhibitor that helps some contacts after you've cleaned them with the normal stuff.

Use a small brush like the ones Caig sells for inside jacks. A 25 pack of those will last a long time.

Don't worry so much about the price Rex, those 25ml bottle will last you a long damn time. I've barely used 1/4 of mine in 3-4 years of working on vintage gear.

I would order it directly from Caigs website though and not on eBay. Get the real fresh stuff that way.
Thank you! Good suggestion on where to obtain it ... I am always a little leery of "chemicals" sold on eBay (re; their freshness).

Right on man. thumbs up Damned solid infos!

nodnod
Ton D
I've used Deoxit's fader lube, and like it, but I like to clean the fader with other things first, then go back with the fader lube as a preventative measure.
TheDegenerateElite
Ton D wrote:
I've used Deoxit's fader lube, and like it, but I like to clean the fader with other things first, then go back with the fader lube as a preventative measure.



Absolutely. You're supposed to use the D first then the F stuff.


Avoid the fader grease though!
BugBrand
TheDegenerateElite wrote:
Ton D wrote:
I've used Deoxit's fader lube, and like it, but I like to clean the fader with other things first, then go back with the fader lube as a preventative measure.



Absolutely. You're supposed to use the D first then the F stuff.


Avoid the fader grease though!


Where did you get that theory from? D is not for pots.
Pure IPA is good for cleaning before application of faderlube.

Useful to have a pot of their fader grease but think it could only be used if you disassembled the pot/fader.
TheDegenerateElite
BugBrand wrote:
TheDegenerateElite wrote:
Ton D wrote:
I've used Deoxit's fader lube, and like it, but I like to clean the fader with other things first, then go back with the fader lube as a preventative measure.



Absolutely. You're supposed to use the D first then the F stuff.


Avoid the fader grease though!


Where did you get that theory from? D is not for pots.
Pure IPA is good for cleaning before application of faderlube.

Useful to have a pot of their fader grease but think it could only be used if you disassembled the pot/fader.



If the pots are really dirty the D cleans them better, then you apply the cleaner lube afterwards. If they are not that bad, then the F alone works fine.

It works well that way.

I avoid IPA on pots.
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