MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Slightly Nasty 2231 Asymmetric Slew Limiter
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Slightly Nasty 2231 Asymmetric Slew Limiter
SlightlyNasty
Hey all, I'm back!

First off - apologies for going AWOL for a bit there, but juggling work and life stuff in addition to getting the Slightly Nasty stuff up and running was a little overwhelming (and still is really, but such is life...).

Anyway, I thought I'd make a thread for the Model 2231 Asymmetric Slew Limiter, seeing as people have started to get their hands on them, and particularly because it turns out I made a rather embarrassing mistake in the "switch configuration" jumpers that allow the use of On-On-On DPDT switches with either of the two switching orders.

Essentially, if you use one of the two types of switch and configure the board as shown in the manual, the switch will operate upside-down to what's on the front panel, which is... clearly not ideal. I've whipped up a new revised version of the documentation on the Slightly Nasty page which is strongly recommended for anyone who has a PCB. It shows the modifications that need to be made if using these particular switches (two trace cuts and two bodge wires):

Slightly Nasty Model 2231 Asymmetric Slew Limiter
(v1.0 Rev B is the new one)

Many thanks to cygmu here on the forum for helping resolve this problem, he also pointed out a few other minor issues that I've included in the new manual, such as an optional improvement to the LED driver circuit and some resistor value tweaks that get the output voltage ranges a bit closer to ideal, as well as a couple of typos / mistakes in the circuit descriptions.

Sorry for the inconvenience to those affected, I know how annoying bodges are on an otherwise clean module. Apart from that though, I'm looking forward to seeing people's builds!
the bad producer
Funnily enough I've just sat down with my new parcel!
drip.feed
OMG HE'S BAAAAAAACK!
Jaytee
Just a heads up: both your current and legacy documentation is labeled “v1.0 rev b”
ashleym
It turns out to be a good thing that I’ve still got this in my to do list. It’s not just the manufacturers that have life interfering.

Good to see you back. Looking forward to making this and for any upcoming modules.

Up vote for whiteface 4U!!
SlightlyNasty
Well, this is embarrassing - turns out I made another mistake in that new manual, the LED driver fix is wrong! I've disabled the link to that manual, new version will be up later today but you should probably just delete that manual if you grabbed it already (or just don't do the LED fix!). Looks like it's going to be one of those weeks...

Jaytee wrote:
Just a heads up: both your current and legacy documentation is labeled “v1.0 rev b”


Ah, thanks - I spotted that yesterday but forgot to fix it.

Oh yes, and hi everyone. Mr. Green
dksynth
Quote:
Up vote for whiteface 4U!!


whiteface 4U unite!
hox3d
What a coincidence, just started building it yesterday.
Actually, I did order some resistors written in the previous BOM, which are not used anymore. razz
The oscillator is up next!
drip.feed
What's coming after the slew? Guinness ftw!
cygmu
hox3d, the original BOM values will definitely work if you want to use the parts you've got.

I'd like to add a big thanks to Raynor (Slightly Nasty) for being so responsive and open to discussion with me over the last couple of weeks. If everyone who builds his modules sends him as many emails as I have he will surely go insane.

I started building my 2231 a couple of weeks ago and noticed I didn't have one or two of the resistor values in stock so I stared at the schematic for a while to see if I could make some substitutions. In doing so I thought I figured out a "better" set of values but doubted myself, so I sent an email... and got an almost immediate response from Raynor saying that he preferred my choice of values too. Hence the BOM change.

When I finally finished the module, using an "Option 1" type switch, it turned out that the switch function was upside down from the panel legend. Everything worked, but up meant down and vice versa. After a bit of investigation with the multimeter I was pretty convinced this was not a build error on my part, but my hand drawn diagrams were kind of confusing. So I gave up thinking about it and sent another email to Raynor. Again, immediate response, and within a few hours he had proposed a fix, I'd tried it and confirmed it working, and the new manual diagrams were drawn and ready.

So far I have had some fun with a veeerrrryyyy slow LFO from this module, way slower than my DUSGs can manage, as well as the usual sorts of things one might do.

So build with confidence! SlightlyNasty is standing by his modules and supporting his customers. How he manages to reply so quickly when I'm in the UK and he's in Australia I have no clue.
SlightlyNasty
Okay, new version is up with the ACTUAL fix for the LED driver. Whew!

As cygmu says, there's nothing wrong with using the old resistor values, they're just little tweaks, not problem fixes.

drip.feed wrote:
What's coming after the slew? Guinness ftw!


The 2251 Multiband Filter is almost ready to go, I've got the front panels and the documentation is done, haven't done a run of PCBs yet though. I think the 2111 Random Voltage Source will probably come after that, I've already started work on the next prototype revision.
the bad producer
For those ordering parts from RS (or in the UK) the switches:

710-9860
734-7050

are Option 1

I have bought Option 2 type in the past, I *think* it must have been Smallbear?
cygmu
the bad producer wrote:
For those ordering parts from RS (or in the UK) the switches:

710-9860
734-7050

are Option 1


I looked at those and decided that the little collar on the 734-7050 made it unsuitable for this build. 734-7053 doesn't have it and is what I've used. I did need to open up the panel hole a little bit though.

The TE ones (710-9860) are a bit cheaper and look a good choice. Not sure why I didn't spot those. Hmm.
SlightlyNasty
the bad producer wrote:
I have bought Option 2 type in the past, I *think* it must have been Smallbear?


Tayda's are Option 2 (man, we really need some sort of standard nomenclature for this!), but they're difficult to recommend to anyone unless they're happy with the potential issues that come with cheap switches. I just have them because they're cheap prototyping parts.
nurbivore
I used NKK M2024ES1W01 which are option 1. The bushing was also juuust small enough to fit in the hole, I actually had to thread it in. But it's a flatted toggle, and that's all that matters.
hox3d
Just finished it right now.

And no magic smoke for me today razz
It's alive and well !

Thank you Raynor, for these wonderful instructions. Everything is really clean and neat, I wish all builds were like that. It's peanut butter jelly time!
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Page 1 of 1
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group