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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Blacet modifications
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Fractional Rack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next [all]
Author Blacet modifications
DGTom
super-simple "mod" for the OG Frequency Divider;

All the divided outs are buffered by a 4050 Hex Buffer, swap it for a 4049, the inverting version & you get divisions you can build drum parts with thumbs up

I also modded mine to have 4 fixed outs & 1 selected by the rotary switch, it required cutting a trace to get an extra buffer - or free the one from the multed one on the panel - but its a pretty cool beat-box now grin

My next experiment will be with the Reset In, at the moment it 'holds' the counter with for as long as the gate lasts... trying to sync multiple dividers this can be a pain.
Adam-V
Great info!

Try ken's gate to trigger trick. A cap, diode and resistor might just sort your reset issue out.

Cheers,
Adam-V
BananaPlug
The Time Machine has clever filtering to reduce the BBD clock noise and deal with increasing aliasing from lower sample rates as delays get longer. The clever part is using switched capacitor filter chips. One on each end of the BBD. These filters take a clock input which determines the cutoff frequency. The BBD clock is a lot faster than what the filters use so there's a chip dividing it by 20. It's a slick way to get everything to track as delay time is adjusted.

after playing with the TM for a while I could see the appeal of having it go all dark and murky as you stretch out the delay. On the other hand I wouldn't mind hearing more BBD artifacts in return for not having so much of the signal rolled off.

So, here's the mod: Change the clock divider from /20 to /16. The dual decade counter U9 is setup as a divide by 10 feeding a divide by 2. I put in a binary counter setup as a divide by 4 feeding a divide by 4.

1. Remove U9 (CD4518)
2. Obtain a CD4520 and do a little jewelry work:

4. Stick a cutoff resistor lead in pin 11 of the socket
5. Plug in your creation and attach that lead to pin 12

6. Check your work.

The result is more subtle than I expected but sounds pretty good. Here's a few minutes of noodling around. Blacet VCO to VCA to Time Machine. It starts out dry. The wilder stuff is in the second half.

Have fun! nanners

edit: Hmm, I thought I'd annotated this already but...
The fact is, this divider is part of a PLL so the effect on the filter clock is reversed. You can try dividing by 24 or 21 but you'll probably start hearing the whine of the clock along with any extra signal you get.
PrimateSynthesis
BananaPlug asked me to post here from my Time Machine thread
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34693
in For Sale/Trade.

While I would prefer not to post schematics that would include part of John Blacet's design, I am willing to answer any questions.

In order to have continuously variable input aliasing, a panpot circuit -- built on a little daughter board -- goes from the input (R27) to the amp before the filter (R27) and the amp after the filter (R23). It uses the same resistor values. Since it is looking into the exact same impedances, the mod is invisible to the rest of the circuit. It does not require cutting traces or replacing any components, so the mod is completely non-invasive, and can be easily removed.

Since the Time Machines uses TL074's, I used a TL072, the dual version of the same amp.
Cat-A-Tonic
Blacet Sequential Switch modification.

Quoted from WeRock:
Quote:
Ok, here's a couple of photos and brief explanation (bearing in mind I didn't do the mods)

Underside of PCB:



4 tiny holes have been drilled in the PCB - 3 are for the stage out LEDS, which connect via a resistor to the IC pins and 1 for a common ground connection. The white wire from pin 8 is the ground connection.

Top Side:



Ignore the gray, pink & orange wires, they are for the 3/4 stage select switch which has been brought out to the front panel.

The white ground wire from the first pic doesn't have any insulation on this side, so you can just see the bare wire marked 'GND' next to the 3rd jack down. This connects one leg of all the LEDs to ground.

The 3 stage out wires that we saw on the underside connecting to the IC pins are the legs of the 3 vertically mounted resistors, with wires going from the other eend of the resistors to the LEDS.

Electrically it is all quite simple, just connect the resistors directly to pins 3, 2 & 4 of the 4017 chip and the other end to the LEDs. It just involves drilling through the PCB, which could of course end in

And you have to drill holes in the panel for the LEDs.

I'll do my best to answer any more questions...


Please put the pics here when you get a chance WeRock.
werock
Here you go...

Underside of PCB:



4 tiny holes have been drilled in the PCB - 3 are for the stage out LEDS, which connect via a resistor to the IC pins and 1 for a common ground connection. The white wire from pin 8 is the ground connection.

Top Side:



Ignore the gray, pink & orange wires, they are for the 3/4 stage select switch which has been brought out to the front panel.

The white ground wire from the first pic doesn't have any insulation on this side, so you can just see the bare wire marked 'GND' next to the 3rd jack down. This connects one leg of all the LEDs to ground.

The 3 stage out wires that we saw on the underside connecting to the IC pins are the legs of the 3 vertically mounted resistors, with wires going from the other eend of the resistors to the LEDS.

Electrically it is all quite simple, just connect the resistors directly to pins 3, 2 & 4 of the 4017 chip and the other end to the LEDs. It just involves drilling through the PCB, which could of course end in sad banana sad banana sad banana

And you have to drill holes in the panel for the LEDs.

I'll do my best to answer any more questions...
idiotunderground
anyone else attempted seq switch mods?
e-grad
werock wrote:
Electrically it is all quite simple, just connect the resistors directly to pins 3, 2 & 4 of the 4017 chip and the other end to the LEDs. It just involves drilling through the PCB, which could of course end in sad banana sad banana sad banana


One could always use longer wires to avoid any drilling through the pcb.
Cat-A-Tonic
Drilling through PCBs is not difficult.
I have done it on several occasions when no provision for standoff mounting holes was provided.

If you have to drill holes in a PCB, be sure to:
- avoid circuit traces,
- put some scrap wood under the PCB,
- start with a very small diameter drill-bit to make a pilot hole,
- where a mask to avoid breathing in nasty fiberglass dust.

Sorry if all that was painfully obvious.
e-grad
Babaluma wrote:
1 x Blacet EG1 with the following mods:
A) Separate three position switches on the Attack and Decay parameters, to give you Log., Lin., or Exp. curve responses


I just want to make sure that I've understand how the mod above is done:

Inverted out to the switch contact of the CV In jack = expotential; the normal out to the switch contact = log. An on/off/on switch inbetween the outs and the jacks allows to choose btn log, exp and lin?
Babaluma
Cat-A-Tonic did the mod, I just helped, so hopefully he'll respond soon!

It REALLY opened up the versatility of the EG1, especially for slow/LFO type stuff, and I guess for rhythmic stuff too.
e-grad
Babaluma wrote:
Cat-A-Tonic did the mod, I just helped, so hopefully he'll respond soon!


I hope he'll chime in!
Cat-A-Tonic
e-grad wrote:
Babaluma wrote:
1 x Blacet EG1 with the following mods:
A) Separate three position switches on the Attack and Decay parameters, to give you Log., Lin., or Exp. curve responses


I just want to make sure that I've understand how the mod above is done:

Inverted out to the switch contact of the CV In jack = expotential; the normal out to the switch contact = log. An on/off/on switch inbetween the outs and the jacks allows to choose btn log, exp and lin?

Yes, exactly.

What would be even better in practice
is having a bipolar attenuator instead of a switch on the CV inputs of Attack and Decay.
(like Envelator, VCS) or this:
http://www.steamsynth.com/m_VCADSR.aspx

I chose on-off-on switches with consideration to available panel space.
This allows for quick selection of the extremes, but nothing in between.

Try patching the feedback through a Mixer/Processor or other polarizer/inverter to get a feel for it before doing the mod.

Patch the feedback through a VCA if you want voltage control of slope shape per segment.
e-grad
Cat-A-Tonic wrote:
Yes, exactly.

What would be even better in practice
is having a bipolar attenuator instead of a switch on the CV inputs of Attack and Decay.


Thanks! I think I'll go for the switch and patch a bipolar attentuator when needed. However, I'll give it a try before the mod as suggested by you.
e-grad
Sorry, if I'm asking the obvious.

Given I want a bipolar attentuator could this be achieved without any active parts just by adding one pot?

Assuming I wire the pot as follows: pin 1 to EG out; pin 3 to EG inv. out and the the wiper (pin 2) to the switch contact of the CV in jack. Would that work?
Cat-A-Tonic
One new idea to add about this...

If you play with the polarizer to find sweet spots in the slope shapes
you can make presets with the switches
by wiring resistors of the chosen value in the feedback path.
8_) Blacet
or you could use trimpots.


EG1 rules.
There is only one here, but it's here to stay.
It's brother was passed on to Mr. Nikmis.


Try playing the CVs on it (especially sustain)
with the a pressure controlled CV source of some sort.
Sequencing Envelope CVs is fun too.
e-grad
Cat-A-Tonic wrote:
If you play with the polarizer to find sweet spots in the slope shapes you can make presets with the switches by wiring resistors of the chosen value in the feedback path.


woah

Great idea. However, I'm going to insert a pot a written above that should cover my needs.
Cat-A-Tonic
e-grad wrote:
Sorry, if I'm asking the obvious.

Given I want a bipolar attentuator could this be achieved without any active parts just by adding one pot?

Assuming I wire the pot as follows: pin 1 to EG out; pin 3 to EG inv. out and the the wiper (pin 2) to the switch contact of the CV in jack. Would that work?

I don't know if your knob wiring is correct or not,
but I think adding bipolar attenuators required a bit of extra circuitry.

However,
if you put the on-off-on switch to one side of a passive attenuator pot
you can have a full knob turn of control over the slope in one direction and still flip to an inversion on the fly.

This sort of interface does start to take up a bit of space,
but it's nice to have immediate interfaces especially for performance
and reduction of unnecessary patch cable clutter.
e-grad
Cat-A-Tonic wrote:
I don't know if your knob wiring is correct or not,
but I think adding bipolar attenuators required a bit of extra circuitry.


Just have made a quick test using alligator clips: Yes, it works. I guess, there's no extra circuitry needed since both outs and ins are already buffered.
Cat-A-Tonic
e-grad wrote:
Cat-A-Tonic wrote:
I don't know if your knob wiring is correct or not,
but I think adding bipolar attenuators required a bit of extra circuitry.


Just have made a quick test using alligator clips: Yes, it works. I guess, there's no extra circuitry needed since both outs and ins are already buffered.

Awesome.

I'm eager to see what you come up with for a panel solution.
e-grad
The orignal idea was one space Frac for 2 EG1s plus some extra outs for my Freq Div/FD2020. However, this might not work any longer due to the limited space.
vmgas
i want to add a switch to my blacet psu
i really hate having to reach down and flip a power strip
what switch do i need and where do i clip?
guhh h h thanx kids
fracmonkey
Modifying an AC power supply can be hazardous to your health.

I've actually attached a power strip to the side of the rack box so I don't have to bend over! Bending over is not the hard part; getting back up is... hihi
noisefor
vmgas wrote:
i want to add a switch to my blacet psu
i really hate having to reach down and flip a power strip
what switch do i need and where do i clip?
guhh h h thanx kids


unless you know what your doing with power i wouldn't mess... i use these (attached to my case):

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Power-Switch-F7C016q/dp/B007PVC1 2W/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1337699608&sr=1-3
vmgas
im ok with messing
i used to work as an electrician so i i know how not to die
anyway im asking here because my friend who did so doesnt remember what he did when he made a switch for his
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