performer (or is it per|former?) sequencer build

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elodin
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Post by elodin » Wed May 22, 2019 1:08 pm

Handmedown wrote:
elodin wrote:
Handmedown wrote:After searching I have found no info on the USB problem I am having. I can use the USB from my Akai MPK49 keyboard but not from my Arturia Keystep. Akai keyboard is recognized but not the Arturia.

Is this a bug?
Hello Handmedown. Were you able to find a solution to this? I seem to be having the same problem with my Keystep. I will dig out my M-Audio Axiom this weekend and see if it works.
Well I came to the conclusion after deciphering the manual and chatting with others that it is setup for the USB Novation Launchpad and if you get a USB MIDI keyboard working with it you are lucky. I know it does does not say this specifically in the recording paragraph on page 38 because all it says is MIDI keyboard can be used. It does NOT say USB MIDI keyboard. Also there maybe something odd with the Arturia keystep USB protocol and possibly other Auturia products. My Akai USB MIDI keyboard works fine though so thats why I say this about Arturia. I do not have a chance to try other keyboards.
Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I came to the same conclusion. The Keystep comes with a midi to TRS cable. Running that cable into the midi in jack is working perfectly for me, and it means that the USB jack is free to plug in a launchpad once I get one.

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d.simon
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Post by d.simon » Wed May 22, 2019 1:36 pm

Altitude909 wrote:ok, boards back in stock.
I searched/read this thread but couldn't quite tell...does the Michigan Synth Works board need a different panel? I noticed some panel gerbers in your repository...

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djthopa
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Post by djthopa » Wed May 22, 2019 1:36 pm

I have been thinking the novation launch control would be great for note sequencing. 16 knobs, 8 pads..lots of customizable banks.

Im not a big fan of one encoder plus a push button for inputing data.

Where should i look for the midi implementation in the code?

Where do you request a feature? Through github i guess?

Many thanks

elodin
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Post by elodin » Wed May 22, 2019 1:59 pm

d.simon wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:ok, boards back in stock.
I searched/read this thread but couldn't quite tell...does the Michigan Synth Works board need a different panel? I noticed some panel gerbers in your repository...
It uses the same panel as the original.

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autodafe
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Post by autodafe » Wed May 22, 2019 2:16 pm

getting some strange behaviour on my first unit.
If I power it up, it boots incorrectly and sometimes the display jumps in any strange direction.
If I then press the "reset" switch, it always boots "normally",
If i turn it off and on again, ith booots strangely again...
Then pressing the reset butto multiple times, it boots up totally fine...

seems to be related to power up/reset commands

any thoughts?

see it:

[video][/video]

elodin
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Post by elodin » Wed May 22, 2019 2:26 pm

@autodafe are you pushing the limits of your power supply? Some modules draw significantly more power on startup, this can cause abnormal behavior if there is insufficient power to go around.

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autodafe
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Post by autodafe » Wed May 22, 2019 2:40 pm

elodin wrote:@autodafe are you pushing the limits of your power supply? Some modules draw significantly more power on startup, this can cause abnormal behavior if there is insufficient power to go around.

nope. in the video I was using a Doepfer DIY kit 1 PSU with just 2 Per|formers connected...same issue with an uZeus and my bigger Meanwell RT-65B...

elodin
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Post by elodin » Wed May 22, 2019 2:50 pm

Maybe try reflashing the firmware? :despair:

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autodafe
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Post by autodafe » Wed May 22, 2019 3:00 pm

i was thinking about it, I just upgraded to 0.1.19 with its SD card...

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Wed May 22, 2019 4:20 pm

Staticcharge wrote:I saw your comment on Github regarding chord mode, what's the word on that, seems logical to me.
I don't know any more info than what's in the Issue on GitHub https://github.com/westlicht/performer/issues/58

It does sound quite cool, now I've got my head around it.

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Wed May 22, 2019 4:28 pm

I have a bag of jack sockets for the 1.0 PCB if anyone wants them.

Complete set of mono sockets, stereo MIDI I/O sockets Not included.

I have either bent the metal tabs flat at the bottom, or cut them off. In some cases, I've filed down the edges of the metal, where I cut off tabs.

I had thought I'd try and lower the panel on my 2nd Performer build, but changed my mind in favour of attempting to raise the switches (probably a bad decision, in hindsight).

Free to a good home. You pay postage.
EU/UK-only, as probably not worth sending long-distance, given relatively low value.

Drop me a PM if interested.

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Staticcharge
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Post by Staticcharge » Thu May 23, 2019 9:39 am

autodafe wrote:i was thinking about it, I just upgraded to 0.1.19 with its SD card...
Did it behave the same before the update? Maybe try running the 1.18 update to revert back to the previous state.
Is it a fresh build, ie first flash? Could be worth erasing the firmware and running a clean flash.

Lemmy
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Post by Lemmy » Sat Jun 01, 2019 1:00 pm

Altitude909 wrote: 10mm for the board spacer, 6mm for the display, there is a hardware tab on the sheet
Hi @Altitude909, I have one of your boards on order - it looks on the hardware tab of the BOM that 11mm and 7mm are specified. Or am I looking at the wrong doc? I have a box full of M3 standoffs, I guess I could use these instead?

I'm also wondering how well a 2mm panel would work with the thonkiconn jacks. Do you think that would allow for button clearance without any hackery? I don't have a local option for a 1.6mm panel. I'm personally not keen on buttons which protrude a lot in any case...

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Altitude909
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Post by Altitude909 » Sat Jun 01, 2019 3:40 pm

Lemmy wrote: Hi @Altitude909, I have one of your boards on order - it looks on the hardware tab of the BOM that 11mm and 7mm are specified. Or am I looking at the wrong doc? I have a box full of M3 standoffs, I guess I could use these instead?

I'm also wondering how well a 2mm panel would work with the thonkiconn jacks. Do you think that would allow for button clearance without any hackery? I don't have a local option for a 1.6mm panel. I'm personally not keen on buttons which protrude a lot in any case...
Youre looking at the wrong bom, this is the one you should use:



2mm thick panel is fine with the PJ398 based board, that's what I used and the thonkiconn jacks are almost tailor made for 10mm spacing/2mm thick panel. The buttons wont protrude any more than they do on the hundreds of modules that use the same formula/parts.

M3 or M2.5 is fine for the height spacer, it doesnt really matter what you use as long as its 10mm tall

Lemmy
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Post by Lemmy » Sun Jun 02, 2019 5:05 am

Great, thanks

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Staticcharge
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Post by Staticcharge » Wed Jun 05, 2019 2:40 pm

Is there anyone in the UK that has any panels spare? Phil at pusherman has no stock.
Payment via PayPal, I'm after 2.

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Warpus
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Post by Warpus » Thu Jun 06, 2019 10:20 pm

Staticcharge wrote:Is there anyone in the UK that has any panels spare? Phil at pusherman has no stock.
Payment via PayPal, I'm after 2.
I believe Pusherman is getting more in next week.

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pixelforest
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Post by pixelforest » Fri Jun 07, 2019 2:51 am

anyone have a pair of the stereo jacks for the midi i/o they're willing to sell or know where to get them in a hurry? thonk is out of stock and i realized i really want to try and drive my volca via midi for a show in a couple weeks.

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sneak-thief
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Post by sneak-thief » Fri Jun 07, 2019 8:24 am

@pixelforest: you already built a whole module from the ground up, so why not take 1x midi cable and 1x stereo cable and chop them in half?

Then connect the TRS tip to "pin 4" and ring to "pin 5". I put the scare-quotes because of the odd numbering assigned to the midi DIN pins, as you can see in the diagram:

Image
http://sneak-thief.com - raw electro-funk!

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pixelforest
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Post by pixelforest » Fri Jun 07, 2019 11:16 am

sneak-thief wrote:@pixelforest: you already built a whole module from the ground up, so why not take 1x midi cable and 1x stereo cable and chop them in half?

Then connect the TRS tip to "pin 4" and ring to "pin 5". I put the scare-quotes because of the odd numbering assigned to the midi DIN pins, as you can see in the diagram:

Image
i was looking for the jacks - i hadn't sourced them when i built the module originally. ended up finding them at synthcube so we're good. and amazon sells the midi-trs adapter. sweet diagram though.

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sneak-thief
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Post by sneak-thief » Fri Jun 07, 2019 1:42 pm

Aha - so jack as in socket.

It's interesting how wikipedia claims that jack predominantly refers to a socket - but then look up TRS jack in google images and you get the opposite:

https://www.google.com/search?q=trs+jac ... s&tbm=isch
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pixelforest
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Post by pixelforest » Sat Jun 15, 2019 1:38 am

I added some feature requests to the github that I think would make performer even more powerful in a live setting if implemented.

interested to see what people think so have a look and chime in if you're involved in that side of things.

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AlanP
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Post by AlanP » Thu Jun 20, 2019 1:40 am

Can I suggest a fairly prominent note on the build guide that the very subtle line going past one of the solder pads on each IC indicates pin 1?

Because I don't think it's mentioned there, and I wound up aping other people's build photos as far as orientation goes (and installing KiCAD, to check the nets there.) I only noticed that very subtle silkscreen pin 1 indicator after populating them, and I don't think I've ever seen this style of Pin 1 indicator before.

smiler
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Post by smiler » Thu Jun 20, 2019 10:12 am

AlanP wrote:I don't think I've ever seen this style of Pin 1 indicator before.
It's the default style KiCad IC footprints. I agree that they are a bit too subtle but I've kinda learnt to like them. On my stuff I add an extra dot inside the footprint to make it a bit more obvious.

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patrickod
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Post by patrickod » Mon Jun 24, 2019 12:09 am

Finished up my build the other week and am having a lot of fun getting to know this sequencer. It's a really fantastic project - major props to Simon.

Image

I followed the advice of others here and trimmed the metal skirt around the bottom of the jacks which allowed them to sit flush with the board. The space saving and the fact that I'm using a 1.6mm panel means that the buttons have plenty of clearance and prevented me from having to raise the encoder. Definitely the tightest fit of any module I've built so far. Make sure to friction fit everything before you start soldering!

Image

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