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[Build thread] Gene Model I Drum Synth
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next [all]
Author [Build thread] Gene Model I Drum Synth
aabbcc
I've compiled and posted a bom to google sheets. It contains part numbers @ Mouser.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yOFIP_XpbL1YNaXnALYauAz6LdObrc Vt1rjABSM7RQU/edit?usp=sharing

For creating a mouser cart just filter out the blanks in column PART NUMBER MOUSER, copy paste the QTY and Part number columns, usually these two are enough.

If you change something PLZ PLZ PLZ leave a comment in the COMMENT column

Dead Banana DISCLAIMER Dead Banana

If you blindly order from this and something is missing it aint my fault waah

Some stuff I'm unsure about (I got some replies via email from Snercle):

*Cells without a part number are either miscellaneous items like wire or simply stuff I didn't know what part to add
*For all small capacitors <22n I added TDK C0G, this might be overkill and X7R might work, Snercle will have to answer
*ID 66 is only mentioned in the build guide and is a 1000v cap to be soldered across the inut of the psu connector, shouldnt a X2 rated (250v) cap work? Someone plz add suitable cap
*For film capacitors I added Epcos/TDK B32529 series PET, same thing here, would be good if Snercle commented
*Capacitor footprints (I've added all the capacitor footprints in the Notes column) SNERCLE plz confirm these are correct
*The super long pin headers, are the ones I added correct?
*Fuse holder and fuses (someone plz add)
*Switches, these are the ones Snercle recommended but if someone could find a mouser or just about any other store equivalent that would be amazing.
*Power transformer, this is the one Snercle recommended but a mouser equivalent would be nice

So all in all it would be great if Snercle would bless this bom we're not worthy
snercle
Amazing! thumbs up

Just checked on mouser, here are my thoughts:

*Cells without part number - should only be the ones labelled 0r - which indicates a piece of wire / jumper / or a 0 ohm resistor. I just use the offcut resistor leads.
* Small caps <22n - I would go with the cheapest ceramic you can find for most of these, as that's what I used while designing and on all subsequent builds. Values higher than that are mostly polystyrene though.
* ID 66 (1000v 10n cap) - yes you're right, I forgot to put that in the BOM! d'oh! I think 250v rated would be fine, 1000v is just what I had lying around
* Film caps - Yes those Epcos/TDK B32529 series PET look fine.
* Capacitor footprints - Yes they all look right
* Super long headers - I think maybe my description was misinterpreted, as these don't appear to have long pins? To clarify, the individual pins themselves must be 25mm in length. Here's an example: 2-54mm-Pitch-2-Row-80-Pin-Male-Through-Hole-Pin-Header-25mm-20Pcs
*Fuse holder and fuses - I'm using this kind of thing: Panel-Mount-Chassis-Low-Profile-Fuse-Holder-for-5x20mm-Glass-Fuses-10A -250V
*Switches -The maximum width that the lugs or pins can be is 1.8mm
Spacing of lugs or pins is 4.7mm along the throw, 5mm between the poles
actual type used:
salecom-t8012-sebq-h-dpdt-on-off-on-min-toggle-switch-75-0088
*Power transformer - this one looks right 546-266JA12 but £18 seems a bit steep
*LEDs - 3mm, but can be any colour you like, just fyi
*1m trimmers - those are the right type but you can get those cheaper elsewhere
*Spacers - Another one I missed off the BOM is that you need one extra 12mm spacer like this R30-1611200 for the "stop adj" bolt to sit on. Also the bolt itself - which should be a 20mm m3 metal bolt - and a metal m3 nut.

Other things I need to update on the BOM:

*Add 1x 2pin jumper like this: 619-452-00009 somehow left that off very frustrating

Huge props for compiling this, and getting this thread started.

Shall we make this the official BOM? Rockin' Banana!
snercle
Another update to the BOM (sorry!):

4x 8mm nylon spacers are required for the build process (see step 83 of the build guide for more info)

Not sure if everyone is seeing this yet so I'll mail out updated docs in a bit . . Guinness ftw!
Dr. Woland
Thanks for doing this applause Ordering as soon as everything is checked!
sanders
Dr. Woland wrote:
Thanks for doing this applause Ordering as soon as everything is checked!


would you mind linking to your mouser project/cart after you order it?
spotta
I found using Song Huei trimmers I had to relocate an extra two resistors to the back side of the board.



Also the 45 pots are half the price of thonk at https://sinolec.co.uk/en/9mm-potentiometers/1211642-9mm-100k-ohm-linea r-rotary-potentiometer-with-white-line-indicator.html - 37p each, a fact I found out 5 mins after ordering from Thonk very frustrating
snercle
spotta wrote:

Also the 45 pots are half the price of thonk at https://sinolec.co.uk/en/9mm-potentiometers/1211642-9mm-100k-ohm-linea r-rotary-potentiometer-with-white-line-indicator.html - 37p each, a fact I found out 5 mins after ordering from Thonk very frustrating


Sorry to hear that! I wasn't aware at all, in fact I bought 100s from thonk so I'm a bit miffed myself cry

On the subject of the resistors, thanks for bringing that to attention! I managed to fit carbon resistors, but this is probably an area for builders to watch out for before soldering components in.

Let me know how the rest of the build goes thumbs up
MapacheRaper
OP, builders: some videos jamming with the thing would be appreciated! It's peanut butter jelly time!
segerfalk
I'm thinking about using a dc/dc converter instead of a transformer - what are the power requirements? @snercle

@aabbcc did you do a complete BOM on mouser? Otherwise I can share mine. There were a few components of those you listed not available.
snercle
segerfalk wrote:
I'm thinking about using a dc/dc converter instead of a transformer - what are the power requirements? @snercle

@aabbcc did you do a complete BOM on mouser? Otherwise I can share mine. There were a few components of those you listed not available.


+/-12V
I'll need to check again, but I believe I measured it running at somewhere between 180 and 220 mA per side.

If you're providing a nice regulated +/-12v I believe you can leave the PSU section unpopulated and wire the power straight up to the "test" pads (shown in the calibration guide). I'll check this to make sure and get back to you though.
mbroers
any ballparks on the cost of the bom/enclosure?
aabbcc
segerfalk wrote:
I'm thinking about using a dc/dc converter instead of a transformer - what are the power requirements? @snercle

@aabbcc did you do a complete BOM on mouser? Otherwise I can share mine. There were a few components of those you listed not available.


Not yet, I imported it into mouser and it was like 300 EUR, so nothxbai lol. Reworking it now and getting some stuff at a massive discount from reichelt Guinness ftw!
snercle
aabbcc wrote:
segerfalk wrote:
I'm thinking about using a dc/dc converter instead of a transformer - what are the power requirements? @snercle

@aabbcc did you do a complete BOM on mouser? Otherwise I can share mine. There were a few components of those you listed not available.


Not yet, I imported it into mouser and it was like 300 EUR, so nothxbai lol. Reworking it now and getting some stuff at a massive discount from reichelt Guinness ftw!


Sounds good. I managed to get everything for about 250 GBP, but that was before I'd heard of half the suppliers you lot have introduced me to woah
mbroers
thanks that helps!
snercle
MapacheRaper wrote:
OP, builders: some videos jamming with the thing would be appreciated! It's peanut butter jelly time!


Recorded this today: Gene + Copicat

maximee
aabbcc wrote:
segerfalk wrote:
I'm thinking about using a dc/dc converter instead of a transformer - what are the power requirements? @snercle

@aabbcc did you do a complete BOM on mouser? Otherwise I can share mine. There were a few components of those you listed not available.


Not yet, I imported it into mouser and it was like 300 EUR, so nothxbai lol. Reworking it now and getting some stuff at a massive discount from reichelt Guinness ftw!


hey aabbcc, would you be so kind and share your reichelt cart after you're done? I was thinking the same that a lot could be saved if we ordered from reichelt or TME. Also thanks for the heads up about the cheaper song huei trimmers, I managed to get the last 48... when I looked this morning there were still 250+ left smile
aabbcc
maximee wrote:
aabbcc wrote:
segerfalk wrote:
I'm thinking about using a dc/dc converter instead of a transformer - what are the power requirements? @snercle

@aabbcc did you do a complete BOM on mouser? Otherwise I can share mine. There were a few components of those you listed not available.


Not yet, I imported it into mouser and it was like 300 EUR, so nothxbai lol. Reworking it now and getting some stuff at a massive discount from reichelt Guinness ftw!


hey aabbcc, would you be so kind and share your reichelt cart after you're done? I was thinking the same that a lot could be saved if we ordered from reichelt or TME. Also thanks for the heads up about the cheaper song huei trimmers, I managed to get the last 48... when I looked this morning there were still 250+ left smile


Lol, when I was checking out my 50x 100k pots it told me they were out of stock Dead Banana anyhow, got them at musikding for 0.6 eur each so no worries.

Here's what I got from Reichelt, DO NOTE that some parts are for the ZP, CK and HH expander boards:
LED 3-9500L WW LED, 3 mm, ultra-bright, colourless, clear, warm white 5

VIS MAL203038478 Axial electrolytic capacitor, 4.7 µF, 63 V, 85°C, 20% 1

DI 12MM Spacers, metal, 6-edge, M3, 12 mm 10

DI 8MM Spacers, metal, 6-edge, M3, 8 mm 22

WSL 10G Box connector, 10-pin, straight 2

64W-2,0K Precision potentiometer 25 turns, upright, 2.0 kΩ 2

64W-1,0M Precision potentiometer 25 turns, upright, 1.0 MΩ 17

1550N aluminum casing, 1550 N, 250 x 250 x 100 mm, aluminum 1

PL 126001 Fuse holder, 5 x 20 mm, max. 10 A/250 V 3

DA 12MM Spacers, metal, 6-edge, M3, 12 mm 10

PT 10-S 100K Setting potentiometer, vertical, 10mm, 100 K-Ohm 5

SK M3 Hexagonal nuts, 100 pcs M3 1

VIS MAL203036109 Axial electrolytic capacitor, 10 µF, 25 V, 85°C, 20% 8

VIS MAL203038108 Axial electrolytic capacitor, 1 µF, 63 V, 85°C, 20% 9

1N 4007 DIO Rectifier diode 1000V 1A DO-41 110

PHE840 10N 300 Suppression capacitor, X2, 10nF, 300V, 105°C 1

R46 10N 310 Suppression capacitor, X2, 10nF, 310V, 110°C 1


And here's what I got at mouser, same thing here, it includes parts for the ZP, CK and HH expander boards. ALSO NOtE that some stuff arent included like power switch since I had this at home:

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=feae 05fff4

Whats not included:
*9mm potentiometers
*Screws/bolts and nuts
*Audio jacks...these werent included in the documentation and I didnt have the boards in front of me so I forgot about those lol...
aabbcc
@Snercle, going through the build guide I have a question:

59. slot jumper wire into either the two places marked RS or 420 depending if you want Rimshot or 420hz

Couldn't I add a on-on switch instead so i can switch between the two sounds on the fly or do you have to re-calibrate depending on which sounds you want? If re-calibrate is necessary it would have been awesome if the pin spacing between all these were 2.54 mm, that way you could just switch position of a jumper smile[/i]
snercle
aabbcc wrote:
@Snercle, going through the build guide I have a question:

59. slot jumper wire into either the two places marked RS or 420 depending if you want Rimshot or 420hz

Couldn't I add a on-on switch instead so i can switch between the two sounds on the fly or do you have to re-calibrate depending on which sounds you want? If re-calibrate is necessary it would have been awesome if the pin spacing between all these were 2.54 mm, that way you could just switch position of a jumper smile[/i]


That's right, you could add a dpdt on-on switch to select between 420hz and rim shot. I couldn't quite fit them together in a 2.54mm spacing unfortunately as it was a last minute addition and they were right in way of some other traces! There may be another non permanent way of connecting them other than soldering jumpers though...
segerfalk
snercle wrote:
segerfalk wrote:
I'm thinking about using a dc/dc converter instead of a transformer - what are the power requirements? @snercle

@aabbcc did you do a complete BOM on mouser? Otherwise I can share mine. There were a few components of those you listed not available.


+/-12V
I'll need to check again, but I believe I measured it running at somewhere between 180 and 220 mA per side.

If you're providing a nice regulated +/-12v I believe you can leave the PSU section unpopulated and wire the power straight up to the "test" pads (shown in the calibration guide). I'll check this to make sure and get back to you though.


Ok, looking at this rated at +-250mA shoyld be good then: https://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/DPBW06F-12?qs=sGAEpiMZZM vGsmoEFRKS8Koqt8Pjkl39NyQXjx0CL9%252Behh6Thlm2GA==
MapacheRaper
snercle wrote:
MapacheRaper wrote:
OP, builders: some videos jamming with the thing would be appreciated! It's peanut butter jelly time!


Recorded this today: Gene + Copicat



It sounds fantastic. Thanks

It's peanut butter jelly time! w00t
aabbcc
Ok so I finally got some time after work today to start building Rockin' Banana!

Some observeations and questions:

*Of the 29x 10n 5mm caps, 2x 10n caps with 2.5 lead spacing are needed (marked in red circles)

*3x 18k resistors, either missing from bag or bom is incorrect.

*My axial elcos for the expander boards from Reichelt (Vishay) were horribly out of spec, will the below listed still work or should I get some other ones?

1uf was 1.4
4.7uf was 6.4
10uf was 13.3

https://www.reichelt.com/de/en/axial-electrolytic-capacitor-4-7-f-63-v -85-c-20-vis-mal203038478-p230302.html?&trstct=pol_9

*In step 45: 100k trim above "RM" - is this supposed to go on the underside of the board? Seems really cumbersome to trim otherwise.

*Expander board HH, 2n2 ceramic needs LS 2.5mm and 47n needs LS 5mm

*What are J6 and J7 (headers? Marked in red on photo) used for?

*There are 2x 10uf caps with 5mm pin spacing and an oval silkscreen (As opposed to circle) 1 on the pot board and 1 on the engine board. Why is the silkscreen oval for these two?

*Im missing 1x 220n cap, might have been missing 1x from the bag or the bom needs correcting.

*BONUS QUESTION:
EDIT: Lol stupid me, the transformer primaries and secondaries are hooked Up in seriers straight om the PCB...

*BONUS QUESTION 2: is there a proper way to make the mains voltage area less dangerous. Would covering the soldering points around that area with kapton tape work?

IMG_20190318_183555
snercle
Thanks aabbcc, build is looking great!

* 2x 10n are 2.5mm : agh I thought I had spotted all of those - I think the 10n caps I used had a sort of "inbetween" lead spacing, I can see it probably isn't easy to get other sots to fit there - need to fix that.

* 3x 18k resistors missing : I'll go through and see if that's a bom error

* I think those off spec axial caps should be fine - they won't be doing anything more than power filtering and dictating decay times, but you'll find that you usually have a trimmer or pot to control decay, so it shouldn't affect things too much.

* This is the RM vco shape trimmer - it should really be mounted on the underside yes, and adjusted from the front to avoid contact with the AC stuff at the back of the pcb. The sound seems to work best with the trimmer around the middle position, the effect on the RM character is subtle.

* HH card : i should add LS values to the card boms

* the headers J6 and J7 are really just a bit of space for prototyping or modifications - they aren't connected to anything.

Also don't know if I mentioned before the header marked "C . UP >" is for future clock upgrades. If you want to, you can add the header to the underside of the board as you go along. It provides connections to all the important parts of the clock and it's controls as well as power, so in future an add-on board could slot right in there and add some extra clock functions.

* Not sure why the silk screen became an oval for these - but the idea is to use the same 10uf caps, just bend the leads out so they fit. (this was done so I could run a trace between the holes)

* will check the bom for that 220n cap!

* bonus question 1 : haha, we'll never know ..

* bonus question 2 : yes (i think ideally this would be on a separate board or something) for safety, putting insulating tape over both sides of that part of the board would be a good idea - especially while testing / calibrating.

Can't be overstated how important this kind of feedback is really. thumbs up
Bjarne
snercle wrote:


* bonus question 2 : yes (i think ideally this would be on a separate board or something) for safety, putting insulating tape over both sides of that part of the board would be a good idea - especially while testing / calibrating.



Hi,
I wonder what made you incorporate mains voltage into this build. Was it to avoid wall warts? I’m just curious, because I’m not comfortable with high voltage DIY, and I guess it may be a barrier for many.
Cheers
snercle
Bjarne wrote:
snercle wrote:


* bonus question 2 : yes (i think ideally this would be on a separate board or something) for safety, putting insulating tape over both sides of that part of the board would be a good idea - especially while testing / calibrating.



Hi,
I wonder what made you incorporate mains voltage into this build. Was it to avoid wall warts? I’m just curious, because I’m not comfortable with high voltage DIY, and I guess it may be a barrier for many.
Cheers


I hear you. It's true that you must be a lot more careful and the consequences of skipping the double-checks could be a lot more serious when working with mains voltages.
(I would also say there are probably more straight-forward DIY projects than this one for if you want to start working with mains power.)

With a metal case I prefer to have some sort of earth connection to the chassis.
Also there are high gain circuits inside so the supply must be quiet, and it draws about 200mA per side of the dual supply.

If you can meet those requirements with a wall wart supply then you can easily connect it up, the holes are there on the board for this.

I also never intended this to be a DIY project originally, I gave in to demands for a DIY option only a couple of months ago, so I had to go back through every detail trying to see it from an outside perspective.
Not easy, but the feedback has been great and I'm learning a huge amount, so I'm glad i did it screaming goo yo
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