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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Fried Turing Machine MK2
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Fried Turing Machine MK2
hallospceboy
Ok, a short backstory.
I want to slim down my 6U 104hp case. I have an old 3U makenoise skiff from 2013 (monorocket made them I think?) it has a flying busboard of both 10 pin and 16 pin sockets. I filled in my case basically in a way that I could power them all. Ended up having to put it on the 16 pin. “No worries, I’ll just keep it on the red stripe as the first 5 pairs are the same anyway...”


Anyway...
I plugged in only HALF of the header. AND I didn’t start on the red stripe. I’m pretty sure I fried it. Dead Banana

It’ll all light up, then the led’s will fade and be very dim. If I send a clock it’ll sometimes get it and light up and sometimes the led will go dim. But it will not output any CV.

Any thoughts? I pulled it apart and it doesn’t look like anything burned up. But maybe I’m looking in the wrong place.
emmaker
Check things in the power supply chain. Fuses, voltage regs and caps.

Could be it starts out fine, fuses heat up and open up then the caps discharge slowly showing the LEDs dim.

Good luck.
hallospceboy
emmaker wrote:
Check things in the power supply chain. Fuses, voltage regs and caps.

Could be it starts out fine, fuses heat up and open up then the caps discharge slowly showing the LEDs dim.

Good luck.


Hmm everything looks good... nothing smells, no discoloration.
This was one of the first builds i did, my globs of solder are all over the place...

Gonna borrow a DMM from work see if I find anything...
Rex Coil 7
hallospceboy wrote:
... This was one of the first builds i did, my globs of solder are all over the place...
How about you start there and clean up the "solder blobs". Be sure to look for any ~blobs~ that are touching any circuit boards, or any place where wires may be bare (near solder joints usually).

Anything beyond that will probably require the use of a meter.

seriously, i just don't get it
robduarte
I agree that you'll need to test with a meter, but it's worth knowing that polyfuses can actually take time to reset themselves. I haven't looked at the schematic, though, so I don't know what role that fuse plays in the circuit.

Good luck,
rob
drip.feed
robduarte wrote:
I don't know what role that fuse plays in the circuit

The Turing Machine fuses are there to prevent damage if the module is plugged in the wrong way. The fuses get really hot then go open-circuit. They reset in about 10 seconds or less.

The good news is, you haven't broken your module because of the way you plugged it in.

The bad news is, you need to diagnose your fault.
butter
drip.feed wrote:

The good news is, you haven't broken your module because of the way you plugged it in.


OP wasn't very clear about it, but I suspect he was trying to say the module was working until he moved it into the other case....?
hallospceboy
drip.feed wrote:
robduarte wrote:
I don't know what role that fuse plays in the circuit

The Turing Machine fuses are there to prevent damage if the module is plugged in the wrong way. The fuses get really hot then go open-circuit. They reset in about 10 seconds or less.

The good news is, you haven't broken your module because of the way you plugged it in.

The bad news is, you need to diagnose your fault.


This feels like a good plot twist!

Unfortunately I have no clue how to use my DMM. Well, I know how but I dont know what I'm looking for.

I switch it to the capacitance or to the resistance, or to continuity... and then just see numbers and hear beeps? I touch the left and right side of a resistor and I see 33k (or whatever), that matches the BOM so I move on?

After a good sleep I'm gonna watch a ton of youtube videos on how to best do this.
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