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Source for decent quality vero/strip board in the UK?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Source for decent quality vero/strip board in the UK?
nrrrd
I'm planning to build a Ciat-Lonbarde Rollz-5 on veroboard / stripboard*, but I can't seem to find any decent quality stripboard in the UK.

I'd prefer FR4 (glass epoxy) board, but all I seem to be able to find is FR2 (phenolic paper). Does anyone have a known supply of FR4 stripboard?

Thanks

* I have started building it on FR4 perfboard but making the solder bridges is taking a lot of solder, and a lot of time - and I've only built a 4-roll so far.
I've done an alternative layout on stripboard that will be much quicker to build.
the bad producer
I do a lot of stripboard work, and was going to recommend this which I've never had any issues with, but now I notice it's phenolic paper so not much good for you!

https://www.rapidonline.com/rapid-stripboard-119-x-455mm-34-0540

RS do FR4, but I've not bought any directly. I did get a bit (possibly this) in a lot of stuff I got a while ago though and it was fine:

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/stripboards/5185932/
nrrrd
Thanks @thebadproducer.

Have you had any problems with the phenolic paper ones?

I'm a bit wary of the pads lifting while building and then taking on moisture over a number of years while they're in use.

It's a lot easier sourcing FR2 ones, so if my fears about them are unfounded then I'd be happy to buy some.
wackelpeter
very rarely had issues with pads Lifting... usually you don't have single pads either way… the only times i lifted a pad that was sitting next to a cut trace was when i was de-soldering and soldering in components several times… and this was i believe only because i drilled the hole a bit too wide when cutting a trace…


So would second what the bad Producer said, no downsides in using that type (i have build my whole System with this Kind of stripboard and it still works cool )
the bad producer
No problems apart from shitty designs! I've been using that stuff for at least 15 years, and some circuits still going strong! Is the moisture thing a 'thing'? Didn't Roland use phenolic paper for the 303 etc? I also have one of those and it must be nearing 40 years old or something!
Graham Hinton
nrrrd wrote:
I'm planning to build a Ciat-Lonbarde Rollz-5 on veroboard / stripboard*, but I can't seem to find any decent quality stripboard in the UK.


The pcb division of Vero-BICC (nee Vero) is now a separate company called Vero Technologies Ltd.
You can still buy the original Veroboard from their website, but their prototype boards are better.

The issue with the original phenolic board was/is that it was pre-fluxed with a very aggressive flux that would rot solder joints over a few years.
the bad producer
Graham Hinton wrote:

The issue with the original phenolic board was/is that it was pre-fluxed with a very aggressive flux that would rot solder joints over a few years.


Thanks for your insight (again!) Graham - the datasheet for the Rapid stripboard doesn't mention flux, in your view would that mean it's not there? Have they stopped doing that?

https://static.rapidonline.com/pdf/34-0505e.pdf
nrrrd
Thanks everyone.

Graham Hinton wrote:

You can still buy the original Veroboard from their website, but their prototype boards are better.


And rather expensive! eek! At £25+ per board, I might as well get some PCBs printed! smile

Even their regular stripboard is super-pricey. Is there a tangible difference between their SRBP stripboard @ £8 + vat and the stuff from my normal supplier @ £2.80 inc VAT?

They do FR4 stripboard in a 100x160mm size, which is £13.62+VAT. Why is this so much more expensive than FR4 perfboard, which is £1.94 inc VAT for a 150 x 100mm size?

Is it a case of you get what you pay for, or is it just overpriced?

Quote:
The issue with the original phenolic board was/is that it was pre-fluxed with a very aggressive flux that would rot solder joints over a few years.


Is this still the case with the cheaper phenolic board or is it all flux-free nowadays?

I use lead-free SAC305 solder with no-clean flux, which has worked well on the perfboard so far. I'm just fed up of laying silver slugs all over the board!
the bad producer
nrrrd wrote:
I'm just fed up of laying silver slugs all over the board!


You probably know this but IMO stripboard requires some work to get it ready and stop slugs, I sand the entire surface with very fine emery paper and then clean with IPA. I used to use those funny rubbers, but the emery paper is better!
nrrrd
Oh, I mean on purpose. Laying silver slugs as solder-bridges got tedious really quickly! smile

I think my soldering technique is okay (yours is probably better!) but if I get accidental slugs, then I try your sanding technique.
emmaker
I would stay away from phenolic board. I do not know if today it's the same as it use to be when circuit boards first came out but the moisture absorption was an issue with critical circuits and longevity.

Yes, clean anything you solder, glue or paint before you do so. That includes PCBs you buy too. I usually use a scouring powder (Comet, Ajax) or a mildly abrasive ink eraser then clean with water and wipe down with IPA.

I have a 3/32" drill bit in a pin vice/finger drill and use that to break traces, but that wastes a hole. If I need to break a trace between holes I filed down some flat X-Acto blades to the right width and use those.

nrrrd wrote:
I'm just fed up of laying silver slugs all over the board!


Never had a problem with that. Use a temperature controlled iron with the right tip and smaller diameter solder. Smaller diameter solder lets you control the amount of solder you use for a joint better.
slow_riot
I have some excess stock of Vero 10-2845 FR4 double sided stripboard that I can sell for £15 each plus P&P.
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