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Haible Triple Chorus - build question(s)
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Author Haible Triple Chorus - build question(s)
sylvainmoreau
Hi,

i finally got a PCB form Triple Chorus from J. Haible !!

i'm starting to populate the board and my part kit came with 8x110r where the board and BOM says 100r... i guess it's a mistake or is it an update that is missing on the build page ?
http://jhaible.com/legacy/triple_chorus/triple_chorus.html
ixtern
sylvainmoreau wrote:
Hi,

i finally got a PCB form Triple Chorus from J. Haible !!

i'm starting to populate the board and my part kit came with 8x110r where the board and BOM says 100r... i guess it's a mistake or is it an update that is missing on the build page ?
http://jhaible.com/legacy/triple_chorus/triple_chorus.html

Don't know if it is update or mistake but looking at the schematic there should not be any difference using 100 or 110 Ohm resistors for R104, R113, R124, R309, R328, R335, R15, R19.
GSE
I built mine w/ all 100R in those locations.
Many of them are current limiting resistors and 110R won't affect anything.
There's a couple in the EQ section, R15 and R19.
It may have a marginal affect on the sound.
But should work just fine either one.
sylvainmoreau
Hi again...
thx for info. i have so many parts missing in my kit it takes me alot of time to build it.
i have a MOTM faceplate. i don't see much info on pots, switches and how to wire all the thing to pcb :p

any help somewhere ?
the J Hailbe site says only :
Quote:
The Equalizer potentiometers are 10k linear each (3 in total).
You may want to add an input level potentiometer: 10k log ... 50k log are good values.
Input / output jacks depending on what signals you want to bring out.
Mode and bypass switch can be realized with a rotary switch or with a set of toggle switches - more about this later.
soup
There's a wiring diagram on the page your quoting...

http://jhaible.com/legacy/triple_chorus/jh_triple_chorus_connections_1 p2t_switches.pdf
sylvainmoreau
oh thx didn't see that one...

oh... and that page also that is pretty much exactly all i need !
https://dragonflyalley.com/synth/constructionJHTripleChorus.htm

sorry i missed that.
i will study all. . and probably come back with some more questions we're not worthy
bentoc
I just finished mine in Moog Unit format.

Tell me if you need some informations (BOM, ...).
sylvainmoreau
bravo !
first thing i need is a sound demo wink

it's very kind to help thx ! Yes i'm sure i can use a picture of your faceplate, to see the options you have and how you wired everything.
i'm a little busy these days not sure i can go back to build although i received all missing parts from BOM
bentoc
I followed the instructions from dragonflyalley.

This is my first build in Moog Unit format, so I'm very happy with the result.
Panel was made by re:synthesis, it is a cumtom panel (I made the design under illustrator) but this design is very close to the one thas was listed at re:synthesis shop some year ago, except I used the font "Alternate Gothic No2 D Regular" and different pcb hole pattern.





As some have already stated, there is not much difference between linear and solina position. You may just want to have a "Solina / Eq" or "Linear / Eq" switch.
The Shape pot is very useful so keep it on the front panel.

I have to solve a last problem with mine, as I have a pop when I switch on the eq circuit, or when eq is on and I switch the modulation on/off.

Send me a PM with some audio, I will process and send you the result.
sylvainmoreau
haaa good to see pictures. i have a motm panel.. i would prefer a dotcom :p
anyway. so yeah.. hope i can learn from your work !! specially the pots/witches /wires..
sylvainmoreau
Hi bentoc,

i read on the BOM1
1 10uF Tantal Electrolytic 2.5mm near voltage regulator.
you used a 10uF electrolytic there... is that normal ?
(don't know the diff between tantal or not :') )

Quote:
wiki : A tantalum, or tantalum oxide, capacitor is actually a type of electrolytic capacitor. ... However, tantalum oxide capacitors have a much higher capacitance value for their size. They are more expensive than aluminum oxide, but they are more reliable, more stable and they operate better at certain frequencies.

ho ok.
bentoc
I don't think Tantal or Aluminium will make a huge difference here.
Just check the polarity of your Tantal cap and put it the right way.
I didn't pay attention to that and burned the tantal cap the first time I switched the circuit on ;-)
I decided to replace it with an aluminium cap I had in stock.

You can check another build at :
https://modularsynthesis.com/jhaible/triplechorus/triplechorus.htm
Dave Brown also used an aluminium cap with his build.
sylvainmoreau
lice link thank you !
i found 2 shops for the TDA1022.
banzai music 19€ for one
electronicaembajadores 7€ for one !!!

i know banzai... i ordered there. but the difference in price is impressive !
also the electronicaembajadores looks like a real shop in Madrid.. not a fake amazon chinese thive so...
do you think i could go with the electronicaembajadores ?
are thoses same TDA1022 ?

something else. In my Kit i had ceramic disc for n15 / 47p and 560p...(around CD4011) would that be a problem ? all kits i see it's ceramic multilayer.
Pando
sylvainmoreau wrote:
i found 2 shops for the TDA1022


http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/ic-tda1022/
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