How do I connect this board to this faceplate?

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wendallsan
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How do I connect this board to this faceplate?

Post by wendallsan » Sat Nov 02, 2019 6:10 pm

I bought a DJ Thomas White Quad LPG faceplate and PCB's and I'm trying to gather parts for the project. The project seems to have a lot of plate-mounted components, but I'm not sure how you actually connect the boards to the plate based on the builds I've done so far. The best example I've seen so far is from a different build of this board, where they have the boards mounted using 2 'perpendicular to the board' input jacks. I'm not sure if this will work with the boards I have since it looks like BOTH inputs are right next to each other, and if it would work, I'm not quite sure what jack they are using for this trick.

Here is the page with the photo I'm referring to (top one one the page):

https://modularsynthesis.com/nrm/lopass/lopass.htm

You can see that the OFFSET and RESONANCE jacks are mounted so they are perpendicular to the board, and then these can be used to mount the board. Would this work for my model and where can I get jacks like that?

The model I've got is from synthcube:

https://synthcube.com/cart/dj-thomas-wh ... ption=true

:despair:
Currently building a whole mess of modules by Nonlinear Circuits. Troubleshooting a Nonlinear Circuits Sauce of Unce.

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guest
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Post by guest » Sat Nov 02, 2019 6:53 pm

it looks like youre supposed to use the resonance, offset, and mode switch as the mounting point, and the rest of the jacks and pots are wired back to the mainboard.
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cygmu
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Post by cygmu » Sun Nov 03, 2019 2:37 am

There's a long thread about this panel set with various build questions and answers here:
viewtopic.php?p=667895

The panel's designer confirms in that thread that the offset and resonance pots (they're pots, not jacks!) are used to mount the board to the panel.

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wendallsan
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Post by wendallsan » Sun Nov 03, 2019 5:08 pm

cygmu wrote:There's a long thread about this panel set with various build questions and answers here:
viewtopic.php?p=667895

The panel's designer confirms in that thread that the offset and resonance pots (they're pots, not jacks!) are used to mount the board to the panel.
Thanks for pointing this out, I had found a couple other threads on this but this seems to be the de facto one that I need to read through. And thanks for the vocabulary correction-- I would have PROBABLY figured it out by the time I started soldering things (but not guaranteed)!
Currently building a whole mess of modules by Nonlinear Circuits. Troubleshooting a Nonlinear Circuits Sauce of Unce.

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davebr
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Re: How do I connect this board to this faceplate?

Post by davebr » Thu Nov 07, 2019 3:11 pm

Those pots are mounted on the board so you don't have to hand-wire them. You should not use them to mount the board. The leads aren't designed for that amount of stress, although it will work but won't be robust. What you can't see in that photo is my bracket. The bracket mounts between those two pots and the faceplate and the PCB mounts to the bracket on standoffs. Larry Hendry (aka Stooge) used to make brackets out of stainless. Synthcube apparently carries an aluminum version but I cannot verify if the holes line up with the PCB. They might. I make all my brackets custom out of 0.050" aluminum. I use chicklets for all the off-PCB pots.

Dave

Image
wendallsan wrote:Here is the page with the photo I'm referring to (top one one the page):

https://modularsynthesis.com/nrm/lopass/lopass.htm

You can see that the OFFSET and RESONANCE jacks are mounted so they are perpendicular to the board, and then these can be used to mount the board.

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wendallsan
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Re: How do I connect this board to this faceplate?

Post by wendallsan » Fri Nov 08, 2019 3:48 pm

davebr wrote:Those pots are mounted on the board so you don't have to hand-wire them. You should not use them to mount the board. The leads aren't designed for that amount of stress, although it will work but won't be robust. What you can't see in that photo is my bracket. The bracket mounts between those two pots and the faceplate and the PCB mounts to the bracket on standoffs. Larry Hendry (aka Stooge) used to make brackets out of stainless. Synthcube apparently carries an aluminum version but I cannot verify if the holes line up with the PCB. They might. I make all my brackets custom out of 0.050" aluminum. I use chicklets for all the off-PCB pots.

Dave
Ah, yes I see that that bracket would make things much more solid! I can probably build something similar to it here at home now that I've laid eyes on it and see how the pro's are doing it. I was concerned about the durability of such a connection without additional support.

Those chiclets do look like they would make for some nice clean off-board connections, I'll keep them in mind as I place orders for this and/or future projects. If anything, it would save me from buying half lugged pots and half PCB-mount pots in the future for a project such as this, which is what I wound up doing this time.

Thanks for taking time to share these details! :tu:
Currently building a whole mess of modules by Nonlinear Circuits. Troubleshooting a Nonlinear Circuits Sauce of Unce.

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soup
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Post by soup » Fri Nov 08, 2019 4:14 pm

It's dead simple to cut your own bracket out of roofing flashing from any hardware store. Hexinverter's video is nice if you want a how-to...

[video][/video]

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wendallsan
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Post by wendallsan » Fri Dec 20, 2019 7:24 pm

You would think that I'd be done with this project by now! :hihi:

I have 'crafted' my brackets for this project's PCB's, but cannot figure out how to get the switches and the boards to fit together. I've ordered 3 different types of switches for this, the last one being the 'official' Mouser product number switches based on the BOM. The panel is set up for vertical switches, but there is absolutely no way these switches will fit in the provided hole, and the only way I can get the board into place is by turning the switch sideways. Not ideal, but potentially acceptable.

However, even if I take this approach, the switch is completely flush against the board, and there are pads on that board covered by the switch that need to be hooked up to off-board components. I guess I could try to connect these on the back side of the boards, but it seems like a very weird setup, and the switches would then be oriented 'sideways' to the graphics on the panel.

Here are some pics of my delimma. The bracket is not shown in the pic as I haven't adusted it to accomodate the switch yet. The 3rd pic shows the back of the board and the pads that are completely covered by the switch. Let me know if I'm missing something or if this is the only realistic way to accomplish getting these off-board components wired up.

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Post by Mungo » Fri Dec 20, 2019 7:42 pm

The parts are different depending on the panel layout. You can see some examples in the thread about those panels:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... 7&start=75
When built with 16mm pots and there should be enough clearance. The 9mm pots work when the switch is offset (as in 5U builds).

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