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1/4" TRS female jack through 3/8" plywood?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author 1/4" TRS female jack through 3/8" plywood?
Tristana
Are there any 1/4" TRS jacks long enough to fit through 3/8" plywood available (bonus points if they vertically mount to a PCB)?

I am in the process of designing a case, and am looking to build a patch bay into the side of it for 1/4" TRS to 1/8" TS conversion. The goal is to run 1/4" TRS cables out of my DC-coupled interface into 1/4" TRS jacks on the side of the case, which will in turn be wired to a euro panel with an equivalent amount of 1/8" TS jacks. The reason for TRS at the receiving end is to leave the ring open/floating without the use of a specialized cable.

I'm hoping to find jacks that can fit through the plywood directly, rather than cutting at a hole for a panel on the side.
Revok
The Switchcraft 152B might work if it isn't too long.
Tristana
Revok wrote:
The Switchcraft 152B might work if it isn't too long.


Thanks for the suggestion! cheapest I can find is at B&H for $6.31 a pop (reasonable for this?), and I'm terrible at reading data sheets- I think those are a bit long (2.3 inches total)?

Was also perhaps hoping for something insulated & PCB mountable.
Revok
They're pretty pricey. $6.31 is probably going to be tough to beat. They are 2.319" but you might be able to cut the shield lug/cable mount to get it down a little bit.
Astrolabe23
I've had good luck making recessed plugs on thicker wood panels using forstner bits to make a larger circle cut out and reducing the final "panel" thickness where the plug actually mounts. It helps protect the jacks too by having them countersunk. The nice thing about the forstner bits is that they make a perfectly smooth cut and leave a flat surface at the bottom of the hole. They work best with a drill press that you can set the stop depth on. This allows you to get perfectly identical cuts for multiple holes. You can do it with a handheld drill but it can take a bit of practice to get the depth right without going all the way through. The other drawback is the bits are not super cheap. $30 - $40 US for a decent set, but if you do much wood working they come in handy all the time. Below is a photo of a test jack I made on a scrap of wood to find the right depth setting. You can see a more shallow unfinished test hole at the back of the block.




Here is what the bits look like:

kamielsd
a bit oftopic.. but this works quite well for mounting minijacks in aluminium panels thicker then 2mm using these things..
keninverse
+1 for forstner bit or if you have a router then a spiral bit with a template.
ersatzplanet
Here are three from switchcraft that will do it. -

Tristana
ersatzplanet wrote:
Here are three from switchcraft that will do it. -



Thanks! I do like the finish of the 155, it'd match the rails I'm using.

I'm thinking the most cost effective option is gonna end up being routing out a cavity like the others mentioned, I can get pcb mount jacks for $0.50 a pop.
Tristana
For a jack like this, how thin should I route the plywood to to still accommodate the jack without making it too structurally weak?



I'm terrible at reading spec sheets, I think the threaded part is 8mm long?
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/datasheets/1121-1.jpg
JimY
You can use a hole saw/tank cutter and make a big hole. Then glue & pin a piece of plywood - 3mm 1/8" across the back or screw/bolt a spare piece of metal panel. That's what I would do since it rules out having to worry about routing depth. I would still use the router to make a nice rounded corner to the hole.
Note that for speaker/cabinet builders, there are plastic moulded "dishes" with pre-made holes for jack or XLR connectors. These fit into a hole from the outside. Inexpensive, but they are quite large.
https://www.terralec.co.uk/speaker_grilles_and_connector_plates/plasti c_mounting_dish_for_jacks/16582_p.html
Boris_Yeltsin
^^^ This is probably the easiest and most fool proof way to do it as long as you are fine with the jacks being recessed. I've done the same thing for mounting buttons to wooden boxes and it works great.
ersatzplanet
Boris_Yeltsin wrote:
^^^ This is probably the easiest and most fool proof way to do it as long as you are fine with the jacks being recessed. I've done the same thing for mounting buttons to wooden boxes and it works great.


Also it allows you to easily change things in the future if you want to add another jack, or a different type of jack. You just make a new sub panel and do nothing with the hole in the wood. My old 4-voice and 2-voice Oberheims had panels behind large square holes and it was great for all the mods I made.
UltraViolet
I agree with Boris as well. If you just need 1 or 2 jacks then the recessed holes would be a good solution. For a number of jacks the small panel would be easier and provide more flexibility.
electricanada
You guys are doing it the hard way. Just buy a guitar jack plate off ebay for 50 cents or whatever and use a regular socket.

Here you can get the plate and the jack both for a dollar including shipping:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/black-Square-Style-New-Guitar-Jack-Plate-Outp ut-Socket-Chrome-Rectangle/163771451996?hash=item26218a0a5c:g:-54AAOSw BOtY9GeU
Tristana
electricanada wrote:
You guys are doing it the hard way. Just buy a guitar jack plate off ebay for 50 cents or whatever and use a regular socket.

Here you can get the plate and the jack both for a dollar including shipping:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/black-Square-Style-New-Guitar-Jack-Plate-Outp ut-Socket-Chrome-Rectangle/163771451996?hash=item26218a0a5c:g:-54AAOSw BOtY9GeU


Interesting! Those do seem convenient.

Not sure if I'd find it the most aesthetically awesome or aesthetically awful in a case stained carbon gray (like this: https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=193907&highlight= ); I have already grabbed black rails... not sure if the included plate can be made to be flat against the case, though.

What I'm less keen on is the shipping from 'sex-plaza2014' having a potential arrival date of January 21st though it's not abnormal for parts from China.

I've decided I also want L+R outputs at the same location, so perhaps 2 rows of 5 of these on the side of the case matched to an 4hp euro plate of 2 rows of 5 1/8" TS jacks would be the way to go.

Edit: forgot of my original goal for the inputs to be TRS jacks whereas those'll be TS. I could grab just the plates https://www.amazon.com/IKN-Rectangular-Guitar-Output-Electric/dp/B07Y1 WV288 and stick sockets in 'em? https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/6-35mm-1-4-plugs-jacks/6-35m m-1-4-stereo-chassis-socket-jack-3-terminals.html
Revok
Those guitar jack plates will have a slight curve. Look for speaker jack plates instead. There are small black circular ones that might look nice with your case and they will be flat.
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