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Frac Ear Multi question
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Fractional Rack Modules  
Author Frac Ear Multi question
haricots
So I added a multi to one of my ears and just want to confirm that I need to cut away the part of the rack that the ear screws into (behind the ear once it is attached)? Is this what you guys have been doing? I thought I'd double check before I continue mutilating ....
BananaPlug
Quote:
I thought I'd double check before I continue mutilating ....

I think you meant to say multilating. hihi

I don't have one out where I can look at it right now but yes I'm pretty sure that one layer is the black panel on the front and the other is the boxy side piece that joins the front of the frame to the back of the frame.
scozbor
if your not mounting the psu to the rear of the rack you can just omit the sides and back rails altogether. I just turned my 3 blacet racks into 6!
plord
Yeah, I dremel'd mine out to make room for the mults. Doesn't seem to affect structure (i.e. I can still hang a PS off the back no problem).

I've got two blank blue rack ears coming and I'm gonna see if I can get the Blacet Splitter in there smile
Cat-A-Tonic
I think his question was regarding whether to drill through both the black anodized layer and the bare aluminum 'box' layer,
or to simply cut out the interior 'box' layer with a cut off wheel on a dremel tool.
I was planning to drill through both layers for mine.
The thickness of MetalBox and BugBrand panels is equal to that of the combined layers of the Frac ear.
Jacks will mount through this thickness just fine.

I just bought a dremel tool last week.
I'm also planning to put splitters and mixers in the ears.
One of my next projects is going to be assembling a small portable Frac rig for gigs.
I think I'll just leave the rack ears off (at least for now).
That way I can try to fit these utility modules in on the bare aluminum, and if it doesn't work well I can always cover it up later.
krelnarb
I think it will work fine.

Using my Blacet 2600 (and the assumption that all 1.5" Blacet are of similar construction) I've found:

The tallest component on the PCB is the pot: 5/8", on the solder side, the panel bracket nut: 1/8". And 1/16" for the PCB brings it to 13/16". The pot is taller than the two electrolytic caps on the incoming power

Using a Blacet rack, the space behind the ear is 'almost' 15/16". Plenty of room to glue a thin piece of rubber sheet to the inside and put PCB right up to the side.

Now this is the left side of the rack (looking from the front). On the right side the power connector would pose a problem, perhaps a modified cable? Just the wire on female pins, little shrink tubing, no connector shell? I don't know. that would be less drastic than wiring the power right to the board.
Cat-A-Tonic
Quote:
Plenty of room to glue a thin piece of rubber sheet to the inside and put PCB right up to the side.

Ah, rubber sheet to reduce potential shortcircuits against case!
Very good idea. Cheers. Guinness ftw!

Yeah, anything that has any depth to it can't be mounted in front of the power distribution board (whichever side you put it on).
Passive multiple jacks would be fine there though.
I will bet CGS Ringmods are just shallow enough to go in front of a distro board too.
haricots
Thanks for the replies.
So I'll go ahead and remove the portion of the frame that the ear screws into. I do need the power supply secured to the back but I don't think this will affect the strength of the structure in a great way.
Actually, I can probably just cut a notch out with my dremel so that the jacks have clearance and the side frame can still be screwed together with the ear.
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