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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Busboards/compatibilty blah
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page 1, 2  Next [all]
Author Busboards/compatibilty blah
richard
okay so my old PSU took up smoking :(

so I'm yet again looking at the THE most boring aspect of eurorack modular lifestyle

I was using it to feed 10 Analogue Systems modules so this leaves me unable to power these as my other PSUs/busboards are all Doepfer. I don't need to replace the PSU because I already have a Doepfer PSU II in the same case with juice to spare. So 2 questions:

is there an Analogue Systems type busboard available from anywhere I can run from a Doepfer PSU II - AS themselves dont sell anything like that.

Alternatively, does anyone know of a cheaper source for Doepfer to AS converter cables? AS sell them for £8 and I reeeeaaallly don't want to spend £100 on power cables

Richard
Kent
A cheap and reliable solution would be to make a quickie buss-board out of some veroboard and ASys female sockets.
DGTom
Slightly less cheap (only slightly) but more slick looking would be to grab a couple of these;

http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs73_bus.html

& solder in the female IDCs instead. Maybe double check that they will match up, but I don't see why they wouldn't ASys are just 'reversed' Doepfers yh? the module power cables have male instead of female on them?
richard
okay thanks, thats a good start I can make a homebrew board. But the AS sockets are not the same size as the Doepfers (they are not just the male counterpart). Anyone know what the AS sockets are called, or where to source them? Of course I can call AS on monday - I don't know how helpful they will be...

Richard
wetterberg
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1354
It *isn't* straight forward, I'm afraid.

What should be possible is to make a simple multi-point ribbon cable to connect to a single converter thingy.
tragedybysyntax
SO all I would need is the CGS bus boards and then just wire up leads from my PSU to the corresponding section on the board just like the doepfer's?
DGTom
For straight up Doepfer busboards - yep!

I got a bunch of Kens MOTM/Frac boards, soldered in the 156 headers & Bobs your mothers brother. I didn't do anything fancy, the power from the PS500 comes in via a normal Blacet style power lead - I used differant color, heavier guage cable so it looks differant to the ones powering the modules, but, it was dead easy & cheap, cheap, cheap!

Sux that the A.Sys is so odd, just making a reverse busboard woulda been cool confused
richard
AS don't make a busboard and don't sell a PSU either. At which point I am tempted to think they might be dicks... this little problem is getting bigger!

It would be so easy for them to make a simple busboard and get rid of this impediment to using their stuff once and for all
brandon daniel
richard wrote:
AS don't make a busboard and don't sell a PSU either. At which point I am tempted to think they might be dicks... this little problem is getting bigger!

It would be so easy for them to make a simple busboard and get rid of this impediment to using their stuff once and for all


I think the general assumption is that the adaptor boards are sufficient for most purposes. The cost gets out of hand for that if you've got more than a couple ASys modules, though. I've said it before, I'll say it again, DIY power bus strips are just about the easiest modular DIY you can undertake, assuming you find some stripboard. The ASys connectors are 16 pin IC connectors, I get 'em at my local surplus shop pretty cheap, stripboard is about $6-10 per board, which can make a couple of strips each.
wetterberg
absolutely: while a converter CABLE is ridiculously tricky, esp. for many modules a diy power strip is SO much easier
richard
You mean like these?

http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/10-16-Pin-IC-Sockets_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ120 320161872

Richard
wetterberg
no, that's a socket for a microchip.
richard
haha thanks. as i suspected I don't know what the fuck I'm doing with this stuff

man get angry when funny noises stop and smoke comes

very frustrating very frustrating very frustrating very frustrating very frustrating very frustrating

Richard
brandon daniel
wetterberg wrote:
no, that's a socket for a microchip.


Uh, yeah, which is what the ASys connectors actually are...
tragedybysyntax
does ken sell the headers for the euro bus boards too?
wetterberg
brandon daniel wrote:
wetterberg wrote:
no, that's a socket for a microchip.


Uh, yeah, which is what the ASys connectors actually are...
yes, with very intricate wiring as the added bonus, that's part of my point.

...
wetterberg
tragedybysyntax wrote:
does ken sell the headers for the euro bus boards too?
no, just the pcbs - the only thing he sells that isn't just the pcb is the RRM, I think.

That's the problem with the CGS buss board:
If you buy that pcb you have to buy headers as well at an electronics shop of some kind...
and if you have to buy the headers, then you can just as easily pick up some strip board and roll your own, making the CGS board kinda redundant.
- that's my view, at least. Sexiest modules for diy, but the buss board is the lame duck of the bunch, imo.
DGTom
Elby sell kits for the Euro Distro board.

I dunno about lame duck tho. You pay a few bucks & save some labour & instead of an unprinted, handcut vero board you get a nice neat soloution with +/- 12V marked & holes all drilled ready for mounting.

Just depends on preferance, but I think a few $$$ to keep things neat & clearly marked is well worth it, depeends on how many modules you need to power & how often you shuffle them around.
wetterberg
I get what you're saying re. the neatness. Totally.
But labour? Only difference I see is the actual drilling of four holes for mounting. And if you use keyed headers (which you really should either way) there's no real need for marking, either.

Coffee Addiction FTW
DGTom
It depends on the system I guess, if you are ok with having a single massive busboard, all the vero board I've seen would need to at least be cut in 2, maybe 4.

This just comes down to preferance again I think. I would prefer to have a number of smaller distro boards, closer to the modules they are powering over lots of long cables all coming into a big board.

Good point re keying, I find it reassuring to see the marked PCB, match up the module & double check everything before throwing the switch Tinfoil Hat
tragedybysyntax
So.... do I need to get the CGS763 delay board? he sells that kit for 38.50
and the CGS73 for 14.00. Says the 73 includes a set of IDC connectors. Is that the headers I need to plug the modules ribbon cable into or...?
I already have 2 of the doepfer buss boards... I need to snag 2 of one of these boards ASAP. Thanks guys! smile
brandon daniel
I usually cut my veroboards down, it's quite easy. Take a ruler or other straight-edged object (a CD case will do in a pinch), use a razor (I use an xacto knife pen) to score a line on both sides of the board nice and deep (I give each side three or more passes with the knife). Then place the board on a table with the scored line right on the edge, gently bend, it will break easily!
consumed
tragedybysyntax wrote:
So.... do I need to get the CGS763 delay board? he sells that kit for 38.50 and the CGS73 for 14.00. Says the 73 includes a set of IDC connectors. Is that the headers I need to plug the modules ribbon cable into or...?


i think youre talking about elby.
elby sells the 'kit' with idc connectors and pcb.

you dont need the power delay board unless you're having problems powering up and you dont want to upgrade your power supply.
richard
so what do I need, boards like this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STRIPBOARD-VEROBOARD-2-PIECES-250-x-100mm_W0QQit emZ290304090564QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplie s_ET?hash=item290304090564&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C 66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

or what?

R
brandon daniel
richard wrote:
so what do I need, boards like this?


Can't really tell from that pic if that's right or not. What you want is a board with holes and copper traces in long lines going down the board in one direction. Many of these boards just have copper pads around the hole itself, but don't connect any of the holes, making wiring up a busboard a lot more work. If you get the kind with the long traces, it's just a matter of dropping in the connectors and soldering them down, rather than running your own long traces to connect them all.
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