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Modifying Euro Modules for Banana Jacks
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Modifying Euro Modules for Banana Jacks
phasebash
It's official, from the one month if spent on this forum, I've officially contracted Banana Jack, DIY, and Frac/MOTM diseases. Basically, my plan is to Banannify a collection of MOTM, CGS, and Blacet modules in a sweet custom cabinet. I have enough experience (yet not too much) to pull this off. Yet, there are a few Euro modules I highly desire.

My question is this, has anyone had success adding banana jacks to Euro modules (particularly A100 Doepfer modules)? From looking at the Doepfer panel and PCB connections it appears the 3.5mm jacks are holding the PCB to the panel, this complicates things a bit. Beyond this, I'm assuming one only needs to connect the jack ground connections to a common ground (ignoring any normalized connections).

Anything else I should consider or are there any guides? I could not find anything. Cheers dudes.
AntManBee
I believe that bananas are much deeper than mini-jacks, so space, especially with the new shallow parallel board modules will probably make it impossible to add bananas to many euro modules. There was an old thread where Richard asked about adding bananas to Cwejman, which should be searchable soon (or you could google it as that often finds muffwiggler threads).

Have you tried Stackcables or is interconnectivity you're after with your other formats?
phasebash
Basically, I'm not sufficiently impressed with any one format (Euro, Frac, MOTM, etc) to commit to building only one, so I'd like to normalize any built or purchased module into a common format. To that end, I'll most likely build MOTM modules into a 3U format with custom panels, this also includes CGS modules. Since much is up in the air, it seems fitting to also pick the better connector format.

If anything, the CGS / Serge and Blacet stuff impresses me the most, but even then there are still gaps.

Sticking with 3.5mm jacks across the board and using TipTop stackables is definitely an option, and might win in the end.
Soy Sos
There's a big thread about that somewhere.
I believe tragedybysyntax is a king of this.
Someone else did a bunch of euro-nanas too.
BananaPlug
Yeah, try the search I think it's mostly fixed now.
phasebash
BananaPlug, just create a sticky thread with your conversion notes already! You constantly tempt me with your Banana Magic yet don't share your experience. we're not worthy

I've tried the search (both internal and google) but the massive volume of threads on this board makes it really difficult to find anything of any definitive value.

Please? Dead Banana
the bad producer
I did once do a picture guide:

here

And bananaplug has done some more interesting detailed conversions, pics in the same thread I think...

There is some more info around too, I've done a few others manufacturers than doepfer too, basically each module is a slightly different problem, most doepfer are a piece of piss though...



BugBrand
Here's a useful one from BananaPlug::
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=133720#133720

Also, I think there's some info from The Bad Producer somewhere..
(haha - posted just as Charlie chipped in!)
BananaPlug
Thanks Tom. I usually can't find them either. sad banana

A couple more:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1872&highlight=banan a+pictures
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=211&highlight=blacet +modification

Tip:
Replacing jacks on A-132 or similar (no knobs, 4HP) you can support the PCB by running a wire around a banana jack at each end using holes provided for the ground pins of the mini jacks.
ersatzplanet
Also the spacers (as seen on the Choices pictured above) used to make the internal dimensions less deep, really help with parallel PCBs. Most makers are heading in that direction with the need to make modules Skiff friendly.
-James
BananaPlug
If you want to get some of those the magic search term is "bushing" and there is probably a small manufacturer of plastic goods in a city near you that makes them in just about any size and probably has a stock item which will work for you.
the bad producer
ersatzplanet wrote:
Also the spacers (as seen on the Choices pictured above) used to make the internal dimensions less deep, really help with parallel PCBs. Most makers are heading in that direction with the need to make modules Skiff friendly.
-James


Totally bananaplugs innovation! It's peanut butter jelly time!
Pfurmel
Possibly daft question but does anything have to be done with grounding of the modules?
BananaPlug
The module's still connected to the power supply. The only thing you're changing is the jack.

Basic facts:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=29961&highlight=grou nd+reference#29961[/url]

Search is working nicely again.
Pfurmel
Excellent, thanks very much.
Going to have to try this out now. Should make my creature and euro better friends!!


*EDIT*

Success! Got my A145 converted last night, as mentioned, you have to be careful not to lift the traces but other than that, its a piece of piss. Looking forward to spending the weekend at this, yay!!
shaft9000
hi guys,

i'm looking for the right kind of jacks to get for converting some doepfer, asys and others to banana

would these be correct?

http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Banana-Jacks-4mm-Standard-Panel-Mou nt-2915.htm

or do they need to be shrouded, like this?

http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Banana-Jacks-4mm-Shrouded-Panel-Mou nt-Hexagonal-Panel-Nut-2969.htm

i also realize that i may need the bushings on top of the faceplate for parallel-pcb modules, but i didn't find them at testpath....what US source do you know?
BananaPlug
Hi,

I'm sure those would work but the ones I'm most familiar with are these (like my avatar image). They have a nice big solder tab which seems easier to deal with than the ones you found. You can bend it over to get more clearance.



The bushings I got were custom ordered from a small plastics manufacturer near here. I just did some careful measurements, searched the internet for bushings and ended up calling the closest likely looking place. FYI there's just a little bit of variation in the length of the bushings so make allowances for that.



Here's a case where I put a bushing on the back because the jack holes were so close the nuts would overlap.




Hope that helps. It's peanut butter jelly time!
shaft9000
hmm....seems like there's some options; just a matter of having a few to meet each specific module's requirements

thank you, Dr Plug. your efforts are appreciated! screaming goo yo

EDIT:

this is a handy, simple ordering page on Mouser for the Johnson jacks:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?FS=TRUE&N=4292900856+13191184 +4292686293+4294857169+4294966182+4292579738+1323043

EDIT : hmmm..... ....you might need to be logged in w/ an account to view the list.
shaft9000
coming along now..."roughly 4.5U" completed It's peanut butter jelly time!

DGTom
Go Shaft! w00t It's peanut butter jelly time! nanners

How did the Synthtech & Modulation Orgy go?

I was eyeing the latter in the pic on AH thinking it might be a candidate for corrective surgery.

Those ASys look great as well applause
shaft9000
---edited for content not relevant here--------
shaft9000
DGTom wrote:
Go Shaft! w00t It's peanut butter jelly time! nanners

How did the Synthtech & Modulation Orgy go?

I was eyeing the latter in the pic on AH thinking it might be a candidate for corrective surgery.

Those ASys look great as well applause


thanks Tom! It's peanut butter jelly time!


SynthTech was pretty easy - no problem with trace-lifting a la doepfer. be sure you have the bendable contacts on the plug, like the Johnson-style. Or else use a spacer/bushing if you use EZ-Hook style that have the thick 'lug' contact.
I am puzzled by one thing on E350 - I can't seem to get simultaneous FM and v/oct on E350 after conversion - despite several wiring attempts/variations. I have to sync it to another osc instead of the v/oct input to use FM correctly. thankfully i don't feel compelled to FM the E350 all that much when it is playing a tune(lfo is a different story), and i have extra oscillators!
E340 was a breeze.

The ModOrgy was cake -
except the switching jack issue of the clock in. it has to be brought out to a switch or left as-is/3.5mm.
I need to contact sir Slocum and find out what to do here; where to tap the PCB.

oh, and i agree about ASys benefitting aesthetically from nanners.
I used to replace all those knobs with Davies' because they just plain looked and felt wrong with Cliffs....but nanners give it new lease - a whole 'nother almost Bugbrand-y kinda vibe w/ ASys...the brighter the color the better

Analogue Systems is even easier to convert than doepfer!
-there's almost no use of switching jacks.
-they're so roomy behind the panel, things go very quickly - it only takes about 5 minutes each to do most of the modules that are the usual ASys 4-5 jack ~20hp layout.
-the pads/traces are robust and won't lift. so far only doepfer have this issue which is not much of an issue anyways - you can always wire the jack at another point; at the other back-leg of the old jack or often there's an adjacent pcb-pad.

I've even had good luck converting the tiny 4hp intellijel (done Spock and uScale so far, uStep is next). the jacks exceed the width of the module so it needs a lil' 'breathing room' w/ adjacent modules LOL, and the contact tabs on the jacks must be bent or trimmed before soldering to the same length as the LED standoffs, so as to fit in the PCB-mounts. So EZ-hook type jacks are a no-go here.
also the jack-holes must be filed out to fit nanners.

Up next are the Flame Clockwork and Tame Machine
pics to follow nanners
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