4u mechanical standards?

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falafelbiels
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4u mechanical standards?

Post by falafelbiels » Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:25 pm

Right, so I'm about to embark on a whole new adventure. I started out with some eurocrack, then started DIYing in the eurorack standard because it mixed well with what I had at the time. Now I'm running out of certain parts and start to believe I have pretty much enough eurocrack to call it a complete system more or less. Hence I will soon start building a 4u banana system.
It's only logical, since I'm using a lot of CGS and these things are pretty much a pain to build in euro anyway. So yes, I'm looking forward to the build and have quite some populated PCBs awaiting paneling. Now I just wonder what the exact dimensions of a 4u module ought to be. Are there any standards at all? How about mountingrails? Which sockets are common for powerdistribution? Stuff like that...

Doepfer has this, which is great. Is there anything similar for 4u?

anyone?

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dkcg
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Post by dkcg » Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:00 pm

I think it comes down to going with the serge format or the buchla format at 4u. Can't think of any other 4u modulars.

Get a Buchla boat or give rex a call and get some serge power and boats. :despair:

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Post by decaying.sine » Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:05 pm

should be some junk in this trunk
http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-18281.html

There is a PDF that belongs to Chris Muir (eardrill) and was posted by him over at EM. It has some helpful panel dimensions. I'll PM to see if it is okay to post it here.

edit* PM'd cbm about the PDF
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Post by cbm » Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:51 pm

Sure. Here is is converted to a small jpeg to keep the forum software happy. It's ugly, but the numbers are the same :-)
Image
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cbm
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Post by cbm » Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:57 pm

As far as the larger question, there aren't any electrical standards, really. Buchla has some, and Serge has some different ones.

Aaron Lanterman collected some wisdom about the Buchla world here.

And Mark Verbos has an interesting post on the subject here.


I don't know too much about the Serge world, other than +/- 12 v supplies.
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falafelbiels
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Post by falafelbiels » Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:59 am

lovely, thanks...

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Post by Rod Serling Fan Club » Wed Nov 02, 2011 12:58 pm

Serge spacing is nice since it is pretty much all the same format, 6-8 holes for any combination of knobs/jacks/switches/LEDs. So once you have your grid(s) you are just changing nomenclature and such for each module. I’ve just begun playing with some 100-200ish Buchla designs. I like the buchla look and I believe I will pursue it for my buchla clone/inspired PCBs but It’s a lot more work if you are trying to make good-looking panels of non-buchla designs, particularly if you are using the 100-early200 big black knobs. You run out of knob space fast and it can take up more space. For instance, a wogglebug sits comfortably in 2 serge rows (1/8th of a boat) but it takes most of a buchla panel with the old knobs (1/4” of a boat).

Some info on serge spacing from zthee:
zthee wrote:On a Serge system there is 2 different spacing for holes vertically.

Horizontally there spacing is always 1".
The whole panel is 17" wide and the center of the first column is at 1" from the left edge.

Then for the first selection of holes:
Top hole center is 0.875" from the edge. And spacing is 0.75" vertically.

For the second selection of holes:
Top hole center is 1" from the edge. And spacing is 1" vertically.

So you can either have a total of 6 or 8 holes. Or any number in between.

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falafelbiels
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Post by falafelbiels » Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:30 pm

Paneldesign-wise I plan on following my own euro-like guidelines of stuffing it to the brim. The thought of bigger knobs has crossed my mind, but also the thought of MORE smallish knobs :hyper:
I was mainly curious about mounting modules in the rack, so that maybe someday I can stick in some nice existing module I might come across.
Most of it will be DIY anyway.

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Post by EATyourGUITAR » Sat Nov 05, 2011 11:13 am

I say banana FRAC. there are some FPD files around for a lot of CGS in banana frac already. the voltage and power connector are the same for 5U and blacet or piaa. its all +/-15v with a 4 pin MTA 156 header. segre and buchla are expensive so I dont see the point in making it look the same if you don't own any buchla or serge. you could also mix banana 5U MOTM and banana frac on the same power supply, bus board, cables. any pcb that won't fit in frac WILL fit in 5U.

:banana:
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Post by daverj » Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:01 pm

EATyourGUITAR wrote:I say banana FRAC. there are some FPD files around for a lot of CGS in banana frac already. the voltage and power connector are the same for 5U and blacet or piaa. its all +/-15v with a 4 pin MTA 156 header. segre and buchla are expensive so I dont see the point in making it look the same if you don't own any buchla or serge. you could also mix banana 5U MOTM and banana frac on the same power supply, bus board, cables. any pcb that won't fit in frac WILL fit in 5U.

:banana:
Frac is 3U, and it sounds like he wants to go larger. If the CGS boards he's building are a tight fit in Euro, they will be in Frac too.

falafelbiels, unless you expect to get some Buchla or Serge in the future, you might as well just set your own standard. The same rails used in Euro will work at any RU size. Just space them further apart. Add 1.72 inches to the spacing and you have a 4U Euro rack.

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Post by EATyourGUITAR » Sat Nov 05, 2011 2:03 pm

oh ok I thought frac was 4U :bang:

but yes 4U does sound like the perfect size for a DIY banana system. you just have to decide on a power connector and 12v or 15v.

click and scroll down for pictures of banana frac modules

they look great. you could mix 3U and your DIY 4U.
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Post by negativspace » Sat Nov 05, 2011 2:42 pm

If you're DIYing, go with 15v. Most stuff seems to work well enough on 12v, but basically all of it is designed for 15.

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Post by decaying.sine » Sat Nov 05, 2011 3:14 pm

negativspace wrote:If you're DIYing, go with 15v. Most stuff seems to work well enough on 12v, but basically all of it is designed for 15.
I think some of Ian Fritz's designs use +/- 12VDC. +/- 15VDC is fine on some of the designs and requires a couple simple changes on others.

Don't take my word for this though--double check first.
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Post by negativspace » Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:36 pm

Yep, there are a few 12v projects out there - MFOS is all 12v too, if I recall. But still, the vast majority is 15. It'll be far less work to start there and convert the 12v modules.

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