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Want to create a eurorack panel, need to know standards
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2 [all]
Author Want to create a eurorack panel, need to know standards
Tronketz
Alright, my eurorack panels are taking shape! Still needs decals and fine tuning.

Blue = Non-CV input / Audio
Pink = CV input
Green = Output
bwhittington
So I guess now you're totally rethinking your rethought modular? d'oh!
Tronketz
bwhittington wrote:
So I guess now you're totally rethinking your rethought modular? d'oh!
Correction, I am totally rethinking my totally rethought modular. But the difference is that I'm not selling my circuit boards unless they are simply incompatible (specification-wise) for my new direction.
Tronketz
Alright!

Question!

Where is a good place to buy blank doepfer panels? I know Analogue Haven has 1 2 4 8 and 42, but what if I need 10HP or other non-standard numbers? There's also Metal Supermarkets, but there's probably cheaper options for one-offs. Any recommendations?
Tronketz
more color scheme and design ideas
ultrashock
I advice you also to look at this type of potentiometers which have much smaller base and height up to 10mm.

And my topic concerning the euro-standards:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45388

for your panels 9mm knobs will fit best.
fonik
Tronketz wrote:
Blue = Non-CV input / Audio
Pink = CV input
Green = Output

by "audio" you mean AC coupled and by "CV" you mean DC coupled? then you would have to make sure that the circuit does exactly do that IMHO.
for me there is no other valid distincion, since distinct by ear (audio is what you can hear) may differ from individual to individual.
YMMV though...
fonik
nice panel design BTW... w00t
Tronketz
Ok, getting closer! I think I'm happy with this.
Tronketz
fonik wrote:
by "audio" you mean AC coupled and by "CV" you mean DC coupled? then you would have to make sure that the circuit does exactly do that IMHO.
for me there is no other valid distincion, since distinct by ear (audio is what you can hear) may differ from individual to individual.
YMMV though...


Hmm, let me reword that. Here are the distictions.

1. An input that does not modulate a parameter (audio / non-cv / etc.)
2. An input that DOES modulate a paramter (cv input, can also be audio-rate of course)
3. An output
Tronketz
fonik wrote:
nice panel design BTW... w00t


Thank you! Feel free to rip off my designs. I swear my ideas for this design came from somewhere... I feel like I'm ripping someone off.
sempervirent
Tronketz wrote:
I swear my ideas for this design came from somewhere... I feel like I'm ripping someone off.


Tronketz
I'm confused about screw hole placement. When you look at the width of the panels of doepfer according to HP, to me it looks like random numbers: http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm

9.80
20
30
40.3
50.8

Yet right next to that it says the screw goes 3mm to the right and 7.5mm away from the panel vertically. So that means on each HP screw placement will be different...

Maybe if I take the CALCULATED module width and move the screw away from the panel 3 x 7.5 then cut off the panel width so it becomes ACTUAL module width I'll get the right screw placement.
negativspace
Screw holes go 3mm from the top or bottom edge, 7.45mm from the left edge. If you have a second hole in your panel, go in increments of 5.08mm (1hp) starting at the first hole to find its placement. Note that it may not be the same distance from the right edge of the panel as the original hole is from the left - this is normal. Just stick to 5.08mm increments and it will work.
Tronketz
Alright, oscillator is comin.
glitched01
How ironic that I just completed a dual-VCA module, based on the 2164 chip (based on Mike Irwin's design, but guided by David Dixon.)

9mm pots will give you some room to breathe, behind the panel:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=693

How are you planning to mount the circuit board to the panel? Pot brackets? My current favorite method is using panel-mount pots with pcb pins (as above). The circuit board is held by the pots in the middle of the back of the panel and your jacks go on the other side of the pots. You can get away with 6HP for most types of designs.

Anyway, good luck!
Tronketz
Alright, oscillator finished.
Tronketz
Can someone confirm for me that I have all the drill hole sizes right?

Mini switch - 1/4"
3.5mm jack - 1/4"
12mm pot - 5/16"
fonik
i recommend reading the datasheets of the components you're gonna use.

anyways and in general IMHO
6mm diameter for minijacks and -sockets
7mm for potentiometers

however,
i prefer having them a little bit wider for vertical PCB mounted compenents which shall mount the PCB to the frontpanel. why? sometimes one of your pots/jacks/switches might not be mounted to the PCB 1005 correctly, thus being a little bit off (just a tiny little bit) - does not matter at all if the frontpanel holes are a little bit larger than they actually had to be. the gap is covered by the mounting nuts anyways.

just my 2 pence
Tronketz
Here's my panel prototype in real life!... no metal yet. By the way, my oscillator is design to used 16mm pots! Yes, they fit very comfortably. It's just that I have a million of these pots and I may use them for my slightly bigger panel designs. I'm planning on using colorful knobs as well. But these knobs sure do look nice.

So I can't really see the labels on my amplifier. I was thinking of a better place to put them. Above the knob means they are visible if I am overlooking the panel. Below the knob they are better if I am "underlooking" it... Anyone have ideas the best place to put labels? Hmm...
negativspace
fonik wrote:
i recommend reading the datasheets of the components you're gonna use.

anyways and in general IMHO
6mm diameter for minijacks and -sockets
7mm for potentiometers


+1, +1, and 1/4" (6.35mm) for switches. hihi
Tronketz
I'd like to replace my LFO toggle switch with a miniature push button (preferrably white or chrome). Any recommendations for part number?
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