MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

FlopSeq Sequencer Board [Updates]
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10  Next [all]
Author FlopSeq Sequencer Board [Updates]
J3RK
I would like to do another run of these in the near future. I would like to get the Complex VCO out and about first, but this would be the next thing on my list I think.

I have something that would make an excellent companion for it, but it's not really a Euro friendly board. It's 3"x5". I guess if you were doing a wide/horizontal sequencer module it would work sideways though. I'll think more about this when I get ready to run the boards again though. I have a ton of clocking and logic function blocks that could be added in any combination to a companion board.

Any thoughts on what would be nice to include?

I'm thinking a buffering board with caps to shorten the "gates" that can be pulled from the LED drivers would be nice. This would buffer the outputs, shorten the pulses to be a bit more discrete. Then maybe a clock, divider, and some logic. That's kind of what I was working on before, and then got side-tracked. I already have all of these functions created though, so adding them to a PCB layout is fairly trivial.

Anyway...
jooks
I just finished a 2x flopseq and having some strange results.



Everything works as expected when clocked from a 281 and cv into a vco. But when the clock input isnt connected, stages can be changed by turning the pots. This only happens when a banana plug is inserted but unconnected. And if I plug the gate out from the 1st into the trig input of the 2nd the two will clock each other by turning pots in either one seriously, i just don't get it Its actualy a quite cool random effect but I dont want it to spit out something from the gate input.

I have used 680R for R1-> R8 and Looking at the schem it seems that the value for R1 and R8 can have an effect on reset-set on the 4013. But Is this enough to explain the problem? I also used 1nF instead of 10nF which might have something to do with it also? I will try to change some values when I have time but this will be later this week. Any ideas in the meantime?

I think I will really like this one when finished! Blinking lights and double sequence. Many thanks j3rk we're not worthy
J3RK
You will get some odd results with a "flying" cable. Especially if you touch the end of it. This could be one of a few things, but all of the ones I've built do this. I've never had it change when turning pots though. So that's a new one for me.

I'll try this when I get home. I use bananas too, and have one in my synth currently. I know it will do fun things when touching the gate input cable, but I'm almost positive it doesn't change around with the knobs. I'll post back soon.
camelneck
djangosfire wrote:
J3RK wrote:
Thanks! Your panel looks great too! Yes, the LEDs can be bright depending on which ones you use. You can swap out those 470R resistors for something like 680R or even 1K would be fine.


Thanks Dustin - I actually ended up using 47k and the brightness is now mellow and nice smile

I'll try posting a vid of the module - great sequencer!! w00t


Most circuit designer's calculate the value of the LED resistor (R) so the forward current (If) flowing through the LED is approximately 17 to 20mA.
Therefore, if the diode has a maximum If of 20mA it will be operating at maximum brightness. However, if you are using LEDs that have If specs that are less than 15 - 20mA, you need to increase the value of R so less current will flow through the LED. Otherwise, your LED will burn out prematurely.

I usually use LED's that are of average brightness (rated between 2,000 - 4,000 mcd). By using less than the diode's rated maximum forward current (If), I often reduce the brighness of the LED by about 50% which I find to be more desirable. To accomplish this, I usually choose a resistor that sets If to a value that is 1/5 of the rated maximum If.

For example, if an LED has a maximum forward current (If) of 20mA, I choose a resistor that sets If to a value around 4 mA, which is only 1/5 of the maximum forward current. If I use a 2mA resistor, I might choose a resistor that sets If to 0.4mA. This reduces the brightness to the desired level and it saves a lot of power. Finally, if you are using ultrabright LED's or the LEDs are too bright for you, try an R value around 47K as Adam did.

For this project, my recommendations for R can be best summarized as:

If you are using 20mA LED's, try a resistor value (R) of 1.8K.
If you are using 10mA LED's, try R = 3.3K.
If you are using 2mA, try R = 18K (or 15K to 20K).
If the LED's are too bright (or if you are using ultrabright LED's), you may be able to use R = 33K to 51K.
If the LED's aren't bright enough decrease the value of R. If they are still too bright, increase the value of R. Everybody has their own opinion about what is too bright and too dim.

IMPORTANT (POWER SAVINGS):
If a module has 2 - 3 LEDs that are capable of being on at the same time (and you are sending 20mA or more through each LED), there is a good chance that the LEDs draw more current than the rest of the module. Reducing the LED current from 20mA to 4mA means you could power twice as many of these modules from the same power supply!

The fact is you can send 10mA of current through a 20mA LED and the LED will only appear slightly dimmer. Yet you are reducing the current draw of the module by 10mA per LED.

I encourage everyone to take the time to do their own experiments. All you need is a $20 VOM that is capable of reading small current values.
knob_alchemist
Hope to see soon a new run of this sequencer PCB..... we're not worthy we're not worthy we're not worthy
makers
I'm working on one of these. I was shorted the 100k pots on my order this week but I have enough 50k pots lying about. Any opinions as to whether 50k would work as a substitute?
knob_alchemist
I don't understand why there isn't a long queue of wigglers interested in tris project...UP UP UP UP...

If help to do a new run I can also pay in advance the PCB...other people interested?????? we're not worthy
J3RK
50k pots should be just fine. I may have answered that via PM.

As far as a new run, I've been chatting with Synthcube about doing these sometime after the MCVCO. I actually have a lot of time on my hands at the moment, so I could possibly do a quick old fashioned board run a still ship at a reasonable rate. Let me get some pricing for it, do a couple of minor updates, and go from there.
djangosfire
J3RK wrote:
so I could possibly do a quick old fashioned board run a still ship at a reasonable rate. Let me get some pricing for it, do a couple of minor updates, and go from there.


w00t w00t w00t w00t

Such a great sequencer!! I'm in for some pcbs if you end up having time smile Guinness ftw! Guinness ftw!
knob_alchemist
J3RK wrote:
I actually have a lot of time on my hands at the moment, so I could possibly do a quick old fashioned board run a still ship at a reasonable rate. Let me get some pricing for it, do a couple of minor updates, and go from there.


That's a great news!!!!!!! Thank you J3RK!!!!!!!!! It's peanut butter jelly time! nanners Rockin' Banana! It's motherfucking bacon yo hyper hyper
J3RK
If we hit around 25 or more boards or so we are good. I'm tweaking the mounting holes slightly to line up with all of my other boards to make comounting easier. I will also add the overlaid euro header for euro builders. It would probably be extremely easy to add an internal clock as well, so I'll monkey with that a bit. It would still accept external as well.

I'll do this today. I will open this or another thread for orders shortly after. I'll make it quick in the interest of wrapping everything up while I still have time to ship reliably. Plus I think it will be available from the dists at some point anyway.

w00t
J3RK
Oops double post....
knob_alchemist
J3RK wrote:
If we hit around 25 or more boards or so we are good. I'm tweaking the mounting holes slightly to line up with all of my other boards to make comounting easier. I will also add the overlaid euro header for euro builders. It would probably be extremely easy to add an internal clock as well, so I'll monkey with that a bit. It would still accept external as well.

I'll do this today. I will open this or another thread for orders shortly after. I'll make it quick in the interest of wrapping everything up while I still have time to ship reliably. Plus I think it will be available from the dists at some point anyway.

w00t


Very good...I do some advertising for this run as soon as you start to take orders... nanners hyper hyper hyper w00t
Rod Serling Fan Club
I'm pretty sure there are some people who bought panels from me that need PCBs. Also, I still have some buchla format panels for a dual flopseq.
Bass Clef
definitely up for a PCB if you do another run...
Microscopial
I'm in brother. You doing faceplates as well. Or is Clarke on that duty
knob_alchemist
Interested in 2 PCBs...is there someone that has a Dual Eurorack Panel for that?????
J3RK
I'd be happy to whip up a quick FPD, but I have actually never done a panel design outside of FPD. I'll see if I can whip something up, and then I'll post the file for people to use, refine, whichever. If this eventually goes to Synthcube or Thonk, I'm sure we'll get a panel done and offer kits perhaps, but I haven't talked at length with them about this design yet.

So, a couple of options here. I'm updating the mounting holes to be the same distances as all of my other boards (short of the Buchla clones,) so that they can co-mount, and adhere to my "standard". Which if anyone's interested are even 1" intervals, by usually 3" (except the MCVCO which is 4")

So, 1x3, 2x3, 3x3, 4x3, 5x3 etc.

So the mounting holes always end up at 2.7" apart for 3" axis, and X.7" on the other axes.

Anyway, where I'm going with this, is that I want to keep this Euro friendly, but I also want to add a couple of things to the board. So would anyone be opposed to me changing the board to a full 4"x3"? It's still within Euro friendly size, but a bit bigger than the old board. So, it wouldn't co-mount all that easily with the old ones if you have them laying around.

If I extend them a bit, I should be able to get a simple internal clock option, and maybe even a speck of logic or the like. I may also be able to add separate gate outputs or the like. I need to think about this one. I also saw someone do a cool build that simplified grounding for less wiring, etc. (though if using MTA headers it's not that big a process anyway I guess)

Please feel free to chime in. I'm poking at this today, and trying some things out. I may even update the schematic, and do a completely new board layout. All of my other projects are where they need to be, so I'm kind of excited to rework this a bit, while still keeping it fairly simple.

w00t w00t
knob_alchemist
Happy that I have re-powered this topic...I really appreciate your sequencer..simple and very nice sequencer...hope to have the PCBs soon.... nanners nanners love love
J3RK
Thanks!

Ok... so...

I've added individual gate outputs with switches. They are short pulse. (not quite trigger sized, but I'd say 25% pulse-width or so, in order to create completely discrete steps.

There is also now an internal clock. There is a switch for internal and external. However, due to the comparator on the clock input, one could probably run and external and internal in at the same time. I'll have to give this a try.

I've tuned the logic a bit as well.

Now I just need to try laying out a reasonably sized board that will contain all of this. I had to add a few chips to get the individual pulse outputs to work the way they should. If it gets a bit too big, I could either axe the individual gate outs, or the clock if necessary. Or go a bit bigger. I want to maintain Euro-happiness though. w00t
inlifeindeath
in for 1 board
knob_alchemist
J3RK wrote:
I've added individual gate outputs with switches. They are short pulse. (not quite trigger sized, but I'd say 25% pulse-width or so, in order to create completely discrete steps.

There is also now an internal clock.

I've tuned the logic a bit as well.


Nice features... thumbs up Guinness ftw!
It's maybe possible to add switches for turning on/off the steps??
J3RK
knob_alchemist wrote:
J3RK wrote:
I've added individual gate outputs with switches. They are short pulse. (not quite trigger sized, but I'd say 25% pulse-width or so, in order to create completely discrete steps.

There is also now an internal clock.

I've tuned the logic a bit as well.


Nice features... thumbs up Guinness ftw!
It's maybe possible to add switches for turning on/off the steps??


Already done. screaming goo yo

Starting the board layout in just a bit. I'm thinking I can get it crammed on something reasonable. Mr. Green
knob_alchemist
love love love love
wavehead
all of these additions sound completely worth it. it's not like 4x3 is really a problem anyone can't get around, but the choice of step switches/gate outs is better to have than not.

a slew would be really cool to have on it (even if pretty much everyone has this capability already outside of the sequencer).
one of the best uses of the flopseq seems to be fast clock rates for more of an LFO style use over traditional sequencing.
especially if you have switches to skip steps, slew would be great for different slope lengths between gaps.
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10  Next [all]
Page 7 of 10
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group