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FlopSeq Sequencer Board [Updates]
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10  Next [all]
Author FlopSeq Sequencer Board [Updates]

fivesteppath

J3RK wrote:
Good news on the individual gates. The are VERY easily tapped from the 4028 Bin to Dec outputs. (either at the LED pad, or resistor leads next to them.) I tested it by triggering the input of a dual 281 in AD mode. Works perfectly. I'd still like to take a quick look on the scope, just to see what each individual gate pulse looks like, but yes, this does work.

It looks very doubtful that the reset is going to work without fairly heavy modification. If I can squeeze this in before the end of the week, or find an easier way, I will, otherwise, it will have to wait for the large version sometime in the future.


Awesome! Expect $ x 2 tomorrow from me. Don't mean to nag but BOM would still be great grin


J3RK

Sorry, I should be able to pop the BOM up tonight. It's created, just need to copy/paste it.

Things have been incredibly busy at work for the past couple of weeks, so I've been a little slower than I'd like.


J3RK

Ack! I must sincerely apologize, for I'm living up to my forum name. I need to get that BOM up. I'm sending myself a calendar reminder to do this right now. d'oh! Sorry about that. It'll be up tonight. Orders will stay open through the weekend, and the production run will be ordered Mondayish. Thanks again, and I'll set up us the BOM shortly. hihi


J3RK

Sorry for the long delay. Here is the BOM. It's fairly simple. Caps are .1" lead spacing for non-electrolytics. The electrolytics are .125"

Code:
Bill Of Materials
=================

QTY  PART-REFS           VALUE                         
---  ---------           -----                         
Resistors
---------
8    R1-R8               470                                               
2    R9,R19              100                                               
8    R10,R11,R13-R18     10k                                               
2    R12,R20             1k                                               
1    R23                 82k                                               

Capacitors
----------
2    C1,C3               10nF                                           
1    C2                  100nF                                             
2    C4,C5               10uF+ Electrolytic (power filtering)                                             

Integrated Circuits
-------------------
1    U1                  4029                                             
1    U2                  4028                                             
1    U3                  4051                                             
2    U4,U5               4013                                             
1    U7                  LT1114/TL074                                         
1    U8                  4093                                             

Transistors
-----------
1    Q1                  2N3904                                           

Diodes
------
8    D1-D8               LED-GREEN                                         
3    D11-D13             DIODE (1N4148 or similar)                                           

Miscellaneous
-------------
8    RV1-RV8             100k                                             
1    SW1                 SW-ROT-3                                       



fivesteppath

thumbs up pm'd.


303monkey

I wanted one of these too


fivesteppath

Before I order a few would this badboy be good for the job?

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SR2511F-0303-19R0B-E 9-S-Wvirtualkey14860000virtualkey105-SR2511F-33S


Jarno

Dustin, do you have a layout picture of these boards, and a schematic?

I usually mark which components I did and didn't place, and also for remembering to order certain components.
The schematic is useful to determine possible component substitutions.


J3RK

Jarno wrote:
Dustin, do you have a layout picture of these boards, and a schematic?

I usually mark which components I did and didn't place, and also for remembering to order certain components.
The schematic is useful to determine possible component substitutions.


I should be able to put a board image together tonight for this.


Jarno

Thanks! Boards look great btw. Like the layout of the 258 boards as well lots of room for different types of components.


FrankV

J3RK wrote:
Code:
                                         
1    SW1                 SW-ROT-3                                       


Hi--

Just a quickie. I'm guessing the switch is a three position for mode setting... Looking at the (four) pads on the board, it's not entirely clear to me which one would be the common. Did I miss a schematic in some other thread? hmmm.....

Best,

Frank


J3RK

I'm putting together a bit more information for these now. In the design/schematic, I'm using a three position rotary switch. Since I've just been using a jumper-wire to select on the bench, I'll have to think about wiring a non-rotary switch. Should be pretty easy. It's in ping-pong mode with nothing wired there by default.


J3RK

Here's the schematic for the FlopSeq Sequencer. I'm linking it, rather than posting the image, as it's pretty large.

http://home.comcast.net/~r3cogniz3r/flopseqschem.jpg

If anyone has any suggestions on using a more standard switch, by all means post! thumbs up I haven't had much in the way of time to revisit this in a while. (though I'm still planning the larger sequencer for down the road a wee.


FrankV

Cool! Thanks for posting.

F


Citisyn

OK, I'm having no luck getting this thing to work. Could somebody help me troubleshoot?

Here is what's happening:

With mode switch in pingpong (or disconnected) the counter counts up to 10 and resets to step 1. With switch in one of the other positions it will skip either step 1 or step 8.

Probing around I've discovered that pin 1 of U5:A is staying high regardless of the states of pins 4 or 6. I'm pretty sure that is the problem, but I can't figure out why it's doing that. I've tested the chip on a breadboard and it seems to work fine.

Any ideas?


J3RK

Citisyn wrote:
OK, I'm having no luck getting this thing to work. Could somebody help me troubleshoot?

Here is what's happening:

With mode switch in pingpong (or disconnected) the counter counts up to 10 and resets to step 1. With switch in one of the other positions it will skip either step 1 or step 8.

Probing around I've discovered that pin 1 of U5:A is staying high regardless of the states of pins 4 or 6. I'm pretty sure that is the problem, but I can't figure out why it's doing that. I've tested the chip on a breadboard and it seems to work fine.

Any ideas?


I've only run across something like this once, and was unable to reproduce it, but what it appeared to be is that something caused the seed for the binary counter to be off, so it skipped a step or two. Powering it off and then back on fixed this though. Never got it to happen again though. I've built and tested four of them now without any issues. I'll take a look at one of mine when I get home tonight, and see if I can find some things for you to check.


Citisyn

J3RK wrote:


I've only run across something like this once, and was unable to reproduce it, but what it appeared to be is that something caused the seed for the binary counter to be off, so it skipped a step or two. Powering it off and then back on fixed this though. Never got it to happen again though. I've built and tested four of them now without any issues. I'll take a look at one of mine when I get home tonight, and see if I can find some things for you to check.


I appreciate that, I'll keep poking around myself and see if I can figure it out.

EDIT: (Accidentally) Removed R8 and PingPong mode works. In the other modes, the counter counts in the right direction but still counts to 10. I'll study the schematics some more and re-check my soldering.

EDIT 2: Looks like I wire the mode switch wrong. very frustrating
Fixed that and replaced R8 with a higher value and now every thing works.


CJ Miller

How crucial is the 470ohm value for those resistors? I am surprised to be short of them. I could replace them in a few days, but also I have others between 390 and 510 ohms. Any idea what sort of behavior I should expect if I increase or decrease this value?

Thanks so much for these great boards! Very much looking forward to the expanded FlopSeq.




Citisyn

CJ Miller wrote:
How crucial is the 470ohm value for those resistors? I am surprised to be short of them. I could replace them in a few days, but also I have others between 390 and 510 ohms. Any idea what sort of behavior I should expect if I increase or decrease this value?

Thanks so much for these great boards! Very much looking forward to the expanded FlopSeq.



Changing the values of those resistors should only affect the brightness of the LEDs. However, at least on mine, the value of R8 seems to affect the voltage present ant pins 4 and 9 of U5, which controls the direction/ resetting of the sequencer.


CJ Miller

Citisyn wrote:
Changing the values of those resistors should only affect the brightness of the LEDs. However, at least on mine, the value of R8 seems to affect the voltage present ant pins 4 and 9 of U5, which controls the direction/ resetting of the sequencer.


Affects it how? What value did you choose, and what happens with the sequencer action?

I am probably going to go with 510 ohm, because I have so many of these. We'll see what happens!


J3RK

Citisyn wrote:
J3RK wrote:


I've only run across something like this once, and was unable to reproduce it, but what it appeared to be is that something caused the seed for the binary counter to be off, so it skipped a step or two. Powering it off and then back on fixed this though. Never got it to happen again though. I've built and tested four of them now without any issues. I'll take a look at one of mine when I get home tonight, and see if I can find some things for you to check.


I appreciate that, I'll keep poking around myself and see if I can figure it out.

EDIT: (Accidentally) Removed R8 and PingPong mode works. In the other modes, the counter counts in the right direction but still counts to 10. I'll study the schematics some more and re-check my soldering.

EDIT 2: Looks like I wire the mode switch wrong. very frustrating
Fixed that and replaced R8 with a higher value and now every thing works.


I'm glad to hear that you got it working! I apologize for not being of any help. I've had basically no time for the last few days to work on anything.


asterisk

what goes in BP1-8 on the PCB?

RV1-8 are the 100k pots right?
since there are 3 pads are they just wired up 1,2,3 from the pots?

CV & Gate are outputs?
and CLK is the clock input?

can someone link to the type of rotary switch that works with the 4 pads?


asterisk

bump.

dustin, what goes in BP1-8 on the PCB?

can you link to the type or rotary switch you used and how its wired to the 4 pads?


Citisyn

asterisk wrote:
bump.

dustin, what goes in BP1-8 on the PCB?

can you link to the type or rotary switch you used and how its wired to the 4 pads?


BP1-8 are bypass capacitors. I used 10n. For the switch, you need a 3 position ON-ON-ON switch. I used this one: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SR2511F-0303-19R0B-E 9-S-Wvirtualkey14860000virtualkey105-SR2511F-33S. It's a 3 pole switch and you only need a single pole, but it was the cheapest one I could find. When I get back from work, I'll try and draw up a wiring diagram for how I hooked it up.


asterisk

what do the bypass capacitors do? or what are they there for?
are they necessary for this build?

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