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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

[BUILD] - CGS Euro Modules
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 11, 12, 13 ... 18, 19, 20  Next [all]
Author [BUILD] - CGS Euro Modules

Monobass

I hope I can get mine that shallow too... how deep is it exactly?


negativspace

Dunno... and it's all patched up right now so I'm not pulling it out to check. hihi


Monobass

fair enough hihi


negativspace

I'll measure it tomorrow when I pull it down to add the LEDs. thumbs up


ringstone

So... the Saw to Sine output on the VCOs. I didn't get much out of connecting the pot between SP+ and SPW - except when there was a CV in on SCV. Connecting between SP+ and SCV gives a nice variation in timbre even with a 20k pot. I haven't adjusted the Sine trim yet but it sounds good to me already, just a fair bit quieter than the other outputs.

Cheers
Blair

EDIT: Have to amend this, because it turned out to be due to the fact I hadn't trimmed the Sine output correctly. Once I did it properly by observing the waveform on my 'scope, the normal setup between SP+ and SPW worked as it should have.


negativspace

Monobass wrote:
I hope I can get mine that shallow too... how deep is it exactly?


It is 67mm deep, exactly. (And it looks a hell of a lot better with LEDs. SlayerBadger! )

[s]http://soundcloud.com/negativspace/minisynth-first-patch[/s]


Monobass

Great, if it had been sub 80mm I'd have been happy enough, have to build mine as well as yours now

edit: nice groove by the way thumbs up


negativspace

Thanks. 8_)

I used 0.75" standoffs, then some awesome plastic I-beam stock from the architecture modelling section at the college bookstore. (My parents teach in the architecture department here, so I grew up with that kinda stuff around. Comfort zone...) The shorter plastic standoffs are 7/16" and the longer ones on the VCO stack are 0.5" to allow space for those honkin'-big tempcos. 1/16" washers are used to space other stuff where necessary.

It'd fit my skiff if it weren't angled...


lessavyfav

bkbirge wrote:
...and here's a couple mouser projects that make ordering a LOT easier. They take the BOM from above so if you want different parts you'll need to go in and edit and hit the button to 'save as my own project'. And of course these are just the parts from the BOM that Mouser has, you'll still need to source some stuff from other places (bridechamber, ebay).

Funky Drummer, mouser costs $121.42USD+shipping
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=5e66 c16398

West Coast Mini Synth, mouser costs $215.07USD+shipping, includes both vco's and vca's
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=16d4 3ff73a


So I'm finally (wow) seeing some time to get cracking on my MSU and my Funky Drummer. My DIY experience is with kits that include parts. I used
to do a lot of DIY. I love assembly and testing but fear & hate buying the parts. Thanks so much for this Mouser order
but I have one question- on the Funky Drummer project there is one missing part, this Counter Shift Registers Dual Shift Register thing. It asks if I want to pick a similar replacement. I click on the button and as the page loads drool begins to pour out of my mouth and my vision blurs. Anyone know of a replacement for this bit?

Thanks for the patience.


ringstone

lessavyfav wrote:
So I'm finally (wow) seeing some time to get cracking on my MSU and my Funky Drummer. My DIY experience is with kits that include parts. I used
to do a lot of DIY. I love assembly and testing but fear & hate buying the parts. Thanks so much for this Mouser order
but I have one question- on the Funky Drummer project there is one missing part, this Counter Shift Registers Dual Shift Register thing. It asks if I want to pick a similar replacement. I click on the button and as the page loads drool begins to pour out of my mouth and my vision blurs. Anyone know of a replacement for this bit?


Yes, you have to be a little careful with with CMOS, sometimes low-voltage parts are advised as replacements... Mouser does seem to have a suitable part for CD4015, part no. 595-CD4015BE.

Cheers
Blair


lessavyfav

ringstone wrote:
lessavyfav wrote:
So I'm finally (wow) seeing some time to get cracking on my MSU and my Funky Drummer. My DIY experience is with kits that include parts. I used
to do a lot of DIY. I love assembly and testing but fear & hate buying the parts. Thanks so much for this Mouser order
but I have one question- on the Funky Drummer project there is one missing part, this Counter Shift Registers Dual Shift Register thing. It asks if I want to pick a similar replacement. I click on the button and as the page loads drool begins to pour out of my mouth and my vision blurs. Anyone know of a replacement for this bit?


Yes, you have to be a little careful with with CMOS, sometimes low-voltage parts are advised as replacements... Mouser does seem to have a suitable part for CD4015, part no. 595-CD4015BE.

Cheers
Blair


Thanks! I'll give it a shot!

I envy those who live in places where there are walk in shops for this stuff- I picture California to have Supermarket sized Digi-Key shops plus In&Out Burgers on every corner ;-) I succumb to- I can't buy a $1 part with $10 shipping. I wish here was a Mouser "Prime" like Amazon...


jbaken

does anyone know the mouser part # for a tool to screw in 3.5mm jacks w/ out scratching the panel? pliers just aint gettin the job done clean


frozenkore

jbaken wrote:
does anyone know the mouser part # for a tool to screw in 3.5mm jacks w/ out scratching the panel? pliers just aint gettin the job done clean


A couple others and myself use this but you'll have to file it down a bit as the "key" is a little too thick to fit in the key slots of the jacks. Otherwise it works fine.


bleeps

frozenkore wrote:
jbaken wrote:
does anyone know the mouser part # for a tool to screw in 3.5mm jacks w/ out scratching the panel? pliers just aint gettin the job done clean


A couple others and myself use this but you'll have to file it down a bit as the "key" is a little too thick to fit in the key slots of the jacks. Otherwise it works fine.
Oh, looks like Erhtenvar has them now too!


jbaken

awesome, thankyou!


Leisure Cove

This thread is an inspiration! Great work all around thumbs up


rico loverde

So heres the DIY case so far, still gotta build the MSU and trouble shoot the Gated Comparator on the Funky Drummer. Many thanks to Clarke for his efforts in providing such awesome panels








negativspace

Well done, sir! we're not worthy


hank

Wow, nice! woah


ophidian

That is stunning Rico. w00t


simfonik

That looks amazing, Rico. 8_)


rico loverde

Thanx guys! It wouldnt have happened if it wasnt for this amazing forum!


lessavyfav

Hello - can anyone explain which size LED's I should get to fit into the 3mm LED Lens I got. The BOM has 5mm LEDs, I had some of these at my space and they don't seem to fit. Should they, like, click in?

Thanks!


negativspace

The holes are sized for 3mm LEDs in holders. (Lens maybe as well.)


clarke68

lessavyfav wrote:
which size LED's I should get to fit into the 3mm LED Lens I got.


3mm LED lenses are for T-1 size LEDs. T-1 is secret LED manufacturer talk for "3mm", but you won't find anything at mouser looking from 3mm LEDs. 5mm LEDs are called "T-3".

Assembly instructions on the LED lens data sheet are: "Insert lens through panel hole, and insert LED into lens."

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