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[Orders Closed] - Euro Panels for Thomas White LPGs
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, ... 10, 11, 12  Next [all]
Author [Orders Closed] - Euro Panels for Thomas White LPGs

Buckyball

clarke68 wrote:
Yup...the panel is designed to use board-mounted pots. This is my one-off version (same as the Quad), the dual is identical to the middle 2 channels:



Note: I measured the above module today...the board extends 3.875 inches behind the panel. That's pretty deep for most Euro racks...make sure it fits before you order!


Clarke,

Which pots and jacks did you use? I want to make sure the ones I order are a good fit for the panel. I've put together a Mouser order for everything except pots, jacks, and vactrols, and I'm hoping I can get all those things from Smallbear. Thanks!

--
Buck


clarke68

Buckyball wrote:
Which pots and jacks did you use?

Pots - Alpha 16mm Potentiometer. PC Mount for the Offset & Resonance, doesn't matter for the CV attenuator (solder lug would be a bit easier):
SmallBear - 1010A
Even cheaper at Tayda

Jacks - Kobiconn 3.5mm Phone Connectors
Mouser - 16PJ138


Buckyball

Thanks! Would this jack at Smallbear work, too?

Smallbear 0632E
--
Buck


clarke68

I'm not sure, but I would guess not. The input jacks on this are really close together...I can measure it when I get home. If you buy them and they don't fit you'll surely use them eventually in another project...those look like nice jacks.


cleaninglady

Hi Clarke / All

I'm trying to get my head around a BOM for this project in Euro that relates specifically to builds Clarke's Faceplate ; as is.

This is a .xls of what Thomas had suggest in his Rev. 3.2 .pdf of the board.

PLEASE NOTE !! This .xls is based on building 4 x PCB's for two separate Dual LPG units ; please divide component counts to suit your own project.

Vactrols used in this BOM are the VTL5C3/2 Dual Vactrol. It's really your choice on how you go with these.

Could you give these the once over Clarke ?

Maybe it's time for a build thread for this Euro Version... hmmm.....


clarke68

cleaninglady wrote:
Could you give these the once over Clarke ?

It's been a while since I built mine, so I'll just cover the things that pertain to the panel, and anything else that stands out. You don't have to buy these parts at these places, but you can use the names to search for them anywhere you want.

The part, "What is this called?" is a Shrouded Header 10 Position 2.54mm

Use these to make a power cable: 16-pin (power end), 10-pin (PCB end)

My panel doesn't support the Deep Switch mod, so you don't need that switch.

My panel does support the Resonance mod, so definitely get the resistor & pot for that. When I built mine, I used the part substitutions that Dave Brown talks about in his build notes. They're not working for me, it's something I'm looking forward to changing when I "move in" to the new panels.

The 3PDT Mode switch is not optional, it's how you select between pure VCA, filter, and "both" modes. The resonance only works when the switch is in filter mode, which is indicated by the graphics on the panel. As long as you use a 3PDT, you'll have "both" mode even though it's not indicated on the panel. The panel is designed to fit the switch that Thomas White recommends in his BOM. It's tight but it fits, and it's a quality switch.

You don't need Ebay to find 3.9V zener diodes, the have them a lot of places, including Tayda.

Allied has a little better price on Dual Vactrols than Bridechamber.

14-pin IC sockets are available just about anywhere.

Hope that helps!


cleaninglady

That is a huge help Clarke , cheers ! SlayerBadger!

BOM updated.

Really looking forward to this build.

hyper


Buckyball

I think this is good ribbon cable for the power cable. Is it easier to just solder individual wires to those headers to make the power cables?

Jameco 363813

--
Buck


clarke68

Buckyball wrote:
I think this is good ribbon cable for the power cable.

I use this stuff:

Jameco 643831


Buckyball wrote:
Is it easier to just solder individual wires to those headers to make the power cables?

The 10- and 16-pin IDT cable mounts I link to above are way easier than soldering...you clamp them over the ribbon cable and you're done.


msprigings

Where is the audio attenuator wired to?


clarke68

msprigings wrote:
Where is the audio attenuator wired to?

It's actually meant to be a CV attenuator...you wire it between the CV input jack and the CV & Ground pads on the PCB, like this:



(I hope Fonik doesn't mind my linking to his diagram)

There is also a way to make it in to an attenuverter, I'm going to ask Negativspace to post instructions on how to do it.


cleaninglady

Does anyone know how critical the wattage is in this case.

Tayda only carries the 3.9V 1W Zeners. seriously, i just don't get it


cleaninglady

updated that BOM.


clarke68

cleaninglady wrote:
Does anyone know how critical the wattage is in this case.

Tayda only carries the 3.9V 1W Zeners. seriously, i just don't get it

1W Zeners are fine. That's actually what Thomas White links to in his BOM, I don't know why he has them labeled as 0.5W in the spreadsheet.

Generally speaking, going with a higher rated component is fine electrically...going lower may cause problems. The only thing you'll want to check with a higher rated component is that sometimes they're larger and may be a tight fit on the board.


gwaidan

clarke68 wrote:
When I built mine, I used the part substitutions that Dave Brown talks about in his build notes. They're not working for me, it's something I'm looking forward to changing when I "move in" to the new panels.


FWIW the substitutions to accommodate 100k pots in Dave Brown's build would not have been for quality reasons but because MOTM'ers have a limited selection of affordable values available in those cwazy cermet/plastic pots they love so much. Anyone using Alphas might as well stick to the values in Thomas's schematic.


msprigings

clarke68 wrote:

There is also a way to make it in to an attenuverter, I'm going to ask Negativspace to post instructions on how to do it.


This would be awesome if I need need to change anything before I send my order off to mouser.

Anyone else found anything useful and well priced at Allie other than the vactrols? I hate to pay shipping on a couple vactrols.


negativspace

I took the instructions for wiring up the attenuverter from Dave Brown's website (which is excellent, and now that I scroll up a bit I see you've also already linked to.)


msprigings

apparently I can't read hihi


negativspace

Oh, and check Small Bear for vactrols. Last time I went looking they had Allied beat on price, and you can always pick up pots/knobs or something to pad the order.


msprigings

Good call on the smallbear.

single
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=347

dual
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=349

Anyone have an preference with the 2 singles vs 1 dual? The dual comes out to be cheaper but I assume the sound could be slightly altered.


50quidsoundboy

i'm going to be attempting the Dual LPG when all the bits arrive - my first DIY module. i understand most of the build, including how to use the audio summing stage to get the mix out, and how to hook up the CV attenuators, but the thing giving me the most anxiety so far is hooking up the power! i'm assuming that i can connect the two boards in parallel if i don't want to use two separate ribbon cables? i.e. +15v PCB1 wired to +15v PCB2, and -15v PCB1 wired to -15v PCB2, then provide power to PCB1?

is there anything i need to look out for when building the ribbon cables etc? as you can probably tell, i've got some rudimentary electronics knowledge, but not a great deal!


clarke68

50quidsoundboy wrote:
i'm assuming that i can connect the two boards in parallel if i don't want to use two separate ribbon cables? i.e. +15v PCB1 wired to +15v PCB2, and -15v PCB1 wired to -15v PCB2, then provide power to PCB1?!

That's right...just add GND to GND to that and you'll be fine.


50quidsoundboy wrote:
is there anything i need to look out for when building the ribbon cables etc?

Not really...just make sure you follow the Eurorack standard of having the red (colored) wire of your ribbon cable along the negative/bottom edge. Of course, it will still work if you don't, but it will be confusing...and hooking up Eurorack power is confusing enough as it is.


50quidsoundboy

thanks clarke68!


zeroseven

Can't beieve I missed this thread completely d'oh!

If anybody who ordered a dual panel (or 2) changes their mind and decides not to build, PM me. I'll definitely buy it / them from you.

Thanks


clarke68

zeroseven wrote:
Can't beieve I missed this thread completely d'oh!

If anybody who ordered a dual panel (or 2) changes their mind and decides not to build, PM me. I'll definitely buy it / them from you.

Not to worry! You can still order one (or two!). These should be shipping to me any day now...order instructions are in the first post, if you want one just send me a PM with your Paypal email address. thumbs up

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