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Today I love ebay .
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Today I love ebay .


I think I just got lucky It's motherfucking bacon yo


LoFi Junglist

The OVP-12 is going to cost more than the PSU hihi

You definitely scored on the shipping. My HCC15 cost as much to ship as i paid for it on eBay confused


LoFi Junglist wrote:
The OVP-12 is going to cost more than the PSU hihi

You definitely scored on the shipping. My HCC15 cost as much to ship as i paid for it on eBay confused

784-OVP-12G £10.54

Still a serious bargain methinks hihi


I have bought five of these so far, and I have been very happy with them. They typically come out 20 years or so continuous use. Before I put them back into service, I replace all the polarized caps.

This model typically shows up with 4700uF filter caps, and replace them with these: Nichicon LKG1V822MESBBK.

Some of the more recently manufactured examples will have the power transistors soldered in. This makes servicing them a pain. Older units have the transistor socketed, and these are much easier disassemble and recap.

You can inspect for this if the seller shows the PCB side in their ebay posting.

The supply is worldwide capable, and I can show you how to build a power inlet that has a voltage selector, if you are interested. The parts I use for that will cost you about double what you paid for the supply.


thumbs up

I scored a few 3u rack psu's for the same amounts, slide right in eurorack (at cost of some rack space).


Thanks fuzzbass. I'd be interested to see how you implemented input voltage selection. It's something I pondered over the last time I used one of these but as I felt it wasn't really necessary I passed it up. Might be worth doing this time though thumbs up


You asked for it, ugly napkin drawing.

This kit works for everything except 215VAC, because that requires the fifth primary tap. I'm not sure where in the world this would be a problem.

Those are Schurter part numbers, Mouser has em. You will also need fuses, either 1A, or 500mA, time delay is better. More Schurter parts

0034.3114 500mA
0034.3117 1A

Ignore the Marquardt part at the bottom, not required.

You need an inlet, fuse drawer, fuses and voltage selector wafer. You also need your locally appropriate IEC320 line cable. There are two inlet models shown, one with switch, one without. Both Line and Neutral are fused, and (optionally) switched. These particular inlets are best for wood cabinet mounting. There are others designed for panel mount in Mouser, same page in online catalogue.

At the top of the drawing are the four terminals that are primary on the P-1 supply. Remove any jumpers from the primary terminals before proceeding. The wafer performs all necessary jumpering. Terminal 5 on the primary is not used. The wire colors are my own choices, but I recommend you use different colored wires so as to not, you know, burn your house down or die. Seriously!

When you first power up, makes sure you are well away, and that you can remove the line power without getting nearer the thing. Also good to have a fire extinguisher nearby. Not joking here.

Fuse as directed on the chassis. When you change supply voltage, you have to change fusing too. So you might just buy both types.


Ta very much for that fuzzbass! I see now how the jumpering is taken care of by the switch. And those part no.'s are well'andy! 😸


Forgive me if you know all this...

Be sure to perform initial tests with no load in the supply. If, when you first power up, you have no output voltage, remove line power and check the fuses. A blown fuse means something is wrong.

Be cognizant that wiring this up to mains for testing is probably the most risky activity you will perform in DIY. Get kids and pets away. Clear your workspace of any conductive debris and get your solder out of the way. Go slowly, and double or triple check every change you make before applying line power. Do not touch or manipulate the supply or power inlet during testing. When attaching probes, use one hand only, put the other one behind your back. Better to attach the probes before apply line power.

The TO3 transistor cases exposed on the back side of the chassis have live voltage on them. Do not touch these or short them. Otherwise POOF!

Once you are satisfied that the supply is working, carefully and one-handedly adjust the output voltage trimmers.


All good advice! Can't be too cautious with this stuff. Thanks fuzzbass thumbs up

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