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[ORDER] 808 kick drum PCBs
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Author [ORDER] 808 kick drum PCBs

bananeurysm

EDIT 4.10.2013 - From now on I am taking all orders through tindie:
https://www.tindie.com/shops/jmej/808-kick-drum-clone-pcb/

Stock list is kept up to date on that site!

The PMs are a little much for me to keep up with - so an integrated ordering system makes it all much easier!

Please note that I am now charging $2usd for shipping anywhere in the world. Shipping rates went up and at the same time my post office started following the rules more often and charging me (the correct) rate. Ha.


Hey guys - I haven't posted for awhile, because trolling too much makes my backlog grow too fast. BUT- I have something some of you might want in your own personal backlogs.

I have about 40 pcbs of the final rev of my 808 kickdrum layout. It's basically the Roland circuit, with some minor changes to the trigger input (based on Eric Archer's website), and with the common mods incorporated. (A frequency pot, and the optional decay mod via a resistor value change)

I don't have the BOM online yet - but I'll throw it on my website soon, along with build notes. It's an easy/quick build, nice small pcb.

This is the first PCB I've offered, but it's been tested by a bunch of folks with lots of happy kickin finished projects out there. It's a double sided, very high quality board - fabbed in the US.

I'm selling them for $25 + $2 shipping anywhere in the world

AND you can see from my pics that I have a solid test bed for comparisons. SlayerBadger! It sounds legit and awesome.


NS4W

... but where's the audio demo?! cry

is cv for frequency an easy mod to this design? a tuned/playable 808 kick would be nice.


revtor

any crazy obscure old components needed??


mome rath

revtor wrote:
any crazy obscure old components needed??




doesn't look like it


bananeurysm

You can use obscure transistors if you want.. but my bom and board indicate substitutions - and it absolutely sounds like my real 808. I should post up audio samples.. you're right. I'll get to that soon!

Adding a vactrol to control the frequency pot with CV would be trivial.. though I haven't done it. I DO however have some tiny vactrol pcbs I should maybe do a run of. hmmm.....


mome rath

interested in this but $25 is too rich for me sad banana


Barcode

Edit: After looking over it again.... I want one.


obscurerobot

What kind of power does it want? +9V?


negativspace

bananeurysm wrote:

I'm selling them for $25 shipped. I know I can include shipping within the USA for that.. I've never shipped PCBs abroad, but I guess depending on the country and the cost - I can hope to include shipping in that price as well... but otherwise I'll let you know after investigating.


Two things:

1) I want one!

2) International shipping on something like a PCB or two is almost totally painless. I've just sent about 200 boards, many of them overseas this last week - I use a 6"x9" padded envelope and I tape the PCBs to a piece of scrap cardboard which I salvage from old boxes, for rigidity. It comes to about $3/ea at the post office using first-class airmail.


keninverse

I'll take one.


Pfurmel

If you can manage postage to Ireland, I'll buy one.


darenager

What are the power requirements for this? Looks like single supply? If so I'll take one, any plans to do the others? (snare, clap, hats etc?)


ringstone

bananeurysm wrote:
You can use obscure transistors if you want.. but my bom and board indicate substitutions - and it absolutely sounds like my real 808. I should post up audio samples.. you're right. I'll get to that soon!


Should be fine with substitutions as the components Roland used in the TR-808 (such as 2SC945, 2SA733, 4558) are all "general purpose" parts (although there are a couple of exceptions).

That said, the 808 BD will only require these afore-mentioned parts apart from caps and resistors, and they are quite readily available still. Although some sellers may sell you variants (such as KSC945) which are similar but have a different pinout.

And yes, it would be quite easy to mod this board to do the usual 808 BD mods (such as pitch mod) as they are generally only resistor substitutions.

bananeurysm: Thanks for making this available. Might pick up a couple myself, will make the doing the next couple of 808 BDs a bit easier!

Cheers
Blair


ringroad1

darenager wrote:
What are the power requirements for this? Looks like single supply? If so I'll take one, any plans to do the others? (snare, clap, hats etc?)


there's pos, gnd and neg input at the top right, imagine it needs a bipolar supply.

Someone building a possibly similar version of this on electro-music suggested that it sounded not so boomy at 9v, pretty good at 12v, and spot on at 15v.


bananeurysm

negativspace - thanks for the info! It sounds like I can stick to shipping included no matter the destination. smile

darenager - power.. the original schematic asks for +/-15 I believe.. but I (and a few others) have been powering them with 2 9 volt batteries (in a +/- configuration) and it works and sounds great!

I am planning on doing more drum modules, possibly from the 808 but I'm not sure. I'd like to do 606 hats - but haven't started on that. I have a 909 kick drum pcb that has a few issues I need to troubleshoot still. And I have a Simmons SDS3 project that's probably getting attention next. (Theres an electro-music forum thread that's probably deadish regarding that.) Anyone have any favorite clap circuits? (808 is obvious - but I bet there are more out there..)

mome rath and Barcode - sorry for the price - I'm trying to recoup the R&D that went into several runs/revs. Also using PCB fabs in the US is kinda pricey - but it's important to me to stick with it. (And high quality boards are also important!)

Eitherway - total parts cost with 1/4" jacks and pots ends up being around $15 - so it's still a pretty cheap project still!


bananeurysm

ringroad1 wrote:

Someone building a possibly similar version of this on electro-music suggested that it sounded not so boomy at 9v, pretty good at 12v, and spot on at 15v.


It certainly sounds boomy and "right" to me at 9v.. but I haven't experimented with other supplies. I'll do so and post audio - though it'll probably be a weekish before that happens.

I assume whatever thread you were following is basically the same circuit.. the 808 schematics are all over the place - and it's an elegant design that doesn't really need much improvement!


ringroad1

Good news on the 9v front, makes it more adaptable for diff power supplies.

If you're looking at other drum modules to do, I always wanted a little analogue Latin friend for my 606, so would fancy the congas, rim shot and cowbell from the 808 but I might be on my own there :-)


negativspace

The 808 rimshot is actually one of my favorite x0x sounds. And the cowbell's... well, distinct at least. I don't even remember the congas, which probably tells the whole story there. Still, I think it would be nice to see something other than kick/snare/hats for a change. (How about the 808 Cymbal?)

I think 606 hats would be great. I've always been partial to those, even when I had an 808 and 909 alongside my 2 606s. I don't need one as I still have a 606, but definitely an unsung circuit IMO and one that's not already out there. (Who am I kidding, I'd still probably build one.)


ringstone

BTW Ryk Miller's Liquid hihat is a great board for playing around with all sorts of 808/606 style hihat/cymbal sounds. I have a couple in my backlog to build up.

Cheers
Blair


EMwhite

Dumb question but is the Trig input compatible with a Vdrum Roland pad or is it more of modular synth square trigger?

And how much does the BOM total up to?


Revok

I would probably kill to get a Simmons Clap Trap type clap so I'm going to try to push you in that direction for the next project 8_)


bananeurysm

Revok wrote:
I would probably kill to get a Simmons Clap Trap type clap


The old analog or digital one? I can only find demos of the digital one.. which sounds awesome. Got any examples of the old analog one? And have schematics of either one? (I imagine the digital guy uses some lofi samples on eprom or something?)

EMwhite - I would think vdrums would work fine. I actually have a set, I should test that.


bananeurysm

Oh also - my mouser BOM with 1/4" jacks and alpha pots is about $15. I'm happy to share it with anyone who wants it.


mckenic

Pfurmel wrote:
If you can manage postage to Ireland, I'll buy one.


Wanna split shipping? I wouldn't mind giving this a go - looks like a straight forward build!


Paradigm X

ringstone wrote:
BTW Ryk Miller's Liquid hihat is a great board for playing around with all sorts of 808/606 style hihat/cymbal sounds. I have a couple in my backlog to build up.

Cheers
Blair


Certainly is!

Ive built an uber modded version (switching caps to change range), and actual 606/dr110 envelopes (modded for decay envelopes) and 110vca, sounds amazing! Still got a few things to sort out but its f'in brilliant! love


Pfurmel

mckenic wrote:
Pfurmel wrote:
If you can manage postage to Ireland, I'll buy one.


Wanna split shipping? I wouldn't mind giving this a go - looks like a straight forward build!


Absolutely fine with me, thanks for the suggestion.


L-1

One for me pls.


microfauna

one please. pmd


marvkaye

One for me as well, please. I'll PM...

<m>


NS4W

bananeurysm wrote:
Oh also - my mouser BOM with 1/4" jacks and alpha pots is about $15. I'm happy to share it with anyone who wants it.


Please do!


kollo

I'll take one!


bananeurysm

Here's a link to my mouser bom for any who want it:

http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=95 0b04d9fc

Let me know if that works for you...

[edit] I'm going to hold off another day or two to ship the first round. Didn't realize how fast people would come through with payments! smile

PM me if you haven't, and you want boards.


bananeurysm

UPDATE - I just shipped out boards to the list below. If you don't see your nick and wanted a board let me know! (Or if you paid and aren't on that list CERTAINLY let me know.. though there are a couple boards I shipped that I may not have connected Muff nicks for.)

I still have plenty of PCBs left if anyone else wants em!

Like I mentioned - this is my first time shipping pcbs, and I used standard USPS shipping across the board. If anything gets lost or damaged in transit - let me know, I'll gladly ship another board out.

The mouser bom in the above post should work out for building em up - coupled with the CAD drawing here: http://www.anestheticaudio.com/?page_id=153 to get a better look at the part labels. Let me know if you have any problems, questions - or suggestions for changes on future PCBs! And post finished pics!

aladan
barcode
bleeps
bsmith
jumunius
keniverse
L-1
marvkaye
mckenic
microfauna
nangu
obscurerobot
pfurmel
revok
ringroad1
tondyd
reve
sensing


mckenic

nanners It's peanut butter jelly time! nanners

Thanks a million man!

Woo Hoo!


decaying.sine

Can you use the original Japanese transistors with your board. It sounds like you can from a previous post.

If so, I'd be interested in one PCB. Did I miss your paypal address? I'll PM you.


emdot_ambient

PM'd for 2 It's motherfucking bacon yo It's motherfucking bacon yo


dmix

yes i want 2, pmed you


Barcode

Will you be making the snare / clap / ect in the future?


Juxwl

PM'd. Can't wait to replace my weak 606 BD with this!

Maybe we can all get together and design a front panel for these....


darenager

I PMed you but not heard back?


bananeurysm

Barcode wrote:
Will you be making the snare / clap / ect in the future?


Yes! Eventually I want to make a whole standalone drum machine, but leading up to that - many drum modules! smile Clap is nearer term than snare, though I haven't decided on any circuits. Any ideas?

Darenager - sorry I missed your reply in my inbox - pm sent back!


fate

if i was good at making fronts id be all over this


Barcode

bananeurysm wrote:
Yes! Eventually I want to make a whole standalone drum machine, but leading up to that - many drum modules! smile Clap is nearer term than snare, though I haven't decided on any circuits. Any ideas?


I'm a big fan of the 808 clap. So make that one! hihi


sanders

Barcode wrote:
bananeurysm wrote:
Yes! Eventually I want to make a whole standalone drum machine, but leading up to that - many drum modules! smile Clap is nearer term than snare, though I haven't decided on any circuits. Any ideas?


I'm a big fan of the 808 clap. So make that one! hihi


Yes, or the DR110 Clap; They are similar I think, and relatively simple.

Although, this might make a better stand-alone module, the EH Clap Trap. Has built in controls and a separate Cymbal output also!

Schematics for it are here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v368/zero_thehero/schematics/claptra ck1.jpg
and page 2:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v368/zero_thehero/schematics/claptra ck2.jpg


jumunius

Got mine, thanks Jesse! Teeny little bugger.


ringstone

sanders wrote:
Yes, or the DR110 Clap; They are similar I think, and relatively simple.


Actually quite different! The 808 uses analog noise from a single transistor, the DR-110 digital noise from 4006/4070. The 808 uses a VCA (BA882A) to shape the noise, with a complex envelope generated from an AN6912 quad comparator chip - the DR-110 CPU directly generates a number of triggers to trigger the circuit multiple times... which came as a bit of a shock to me as I expected them to be much the same! The issue of the CPU generating the triggers actually makes the DR-110 circuit much harder to clone.

Interestingly, the Roland HC-2 handclap pedal circuit is mid-way between the two - it uses the same (or similar) digital noise circuit as the DR-110, but retains the VCA/envelope setup of the 808...

Note the BA662A used in the 808 clap is probably the rarest/most expensive chip in the analog drum circuitry side of the 808. Stocks of these have been depleted by people building x0xbox's. BA6110 is a suitable replacement though.

Cheers
Blair


NS4W

sanders wrote:

Although, this might make a better stand-alone module, the EH Clap Trap. Has built in controls and a separate Cymbal output also!

Schematics for it are here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v368/zero_thehero/schematics/claptra ck1.jpg
and page 2:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v368/zero_thehero/schematics/claptra ck2.jpg


Does anyone have a demo of the Electro Harmonix Clap Track? There's one on ebay right now, I'd love to hear a demo of it. Rare unit.


tony d

Got mine today.
Thanks so much Jesse!


LektroiD

A bit expensive... If I order 2, I'll be paying shipping twice for one package... Maybe I'll stagger my order to get my shipping value twisted


mckenic

Just wanted to add my thanks! Got mine to Ireland this morning, tiny little fella thumbs up

Thanks so much! please put me down for whatever you release next! Off to DL the BOM now smile


marvkaye

Got mine over the weekend, has to be the smallest one I've purchased (excepting pot chiclets, of course). Time to get out the magnifier and soldering iron. Woohoo!! Thanks, Jesse. nanners nanners

<marv>


keninverse

Mine came in today.


bananeurysm

Glad you guys are getting those boards! Yeah I definitely recommend referencing the cad file as you build - unless you've got a killer magnifying glass setup!

FYI I'll be shipping the second 'round' of orders tomorrow most likely.

Stoked to hear how you guys like these bangers!

One thing to note is you won't get any sound unless you're giving it accent. You may want to tie it high (to the + side of your supply) - or just supply a constant voltage from another module while you're testing.


bananeurysm

LektroiD wrote:
A bit expensive... If I order 2, I'll be paying shipping twice for one package... Maybe I'll stagger my order to get my shipping value twisted


Shipping works out to cost under $1.50 no matter where I send it. It costs me slightly more to send a cardboard envelope with multiple boards - but not much. These guys are light enough that the post office here is happy to consider one or 2 of them a normal letter.

Eitherway - it's not much of an expense, and that's why I'm just throwing in standard shipping to wherever. I'm selling them for $25 locally as well.

<edit> Also - if interest remains this high for stuff like this - I'll be able to bring the price down on future projects. nanners


Pfurmel

Got mine yesterday, looking forward to hearing this in action.


bananeurysm

One quick build note:

This pcb is designed to include the classic decay mod that extends the possible decay time. If you follow the silkscreen for part placements your kick drum will end up with extended decay.

If you want the 'factory' decay settings - replace the 42.2k resistor with a 47k resistor.

(I'm putting this on my webpage as well)


SMS303

bananeurysm wrote:
Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:08 pm

after 3:03 pm/am the best time to post is 8:08 pm/am lol

i replied your priv.message...


bleeps

Is anyone attempting to add VC over tuning?


tony d

Just built mine.I'm not sure as far as 808 comparison because i don't have one but i did have my wife yelling from across the house "your shaking all the damn dishes in the cabinet" so i guess that's good!
Very happy with it Jesse,thanks again man.


bsmith

got mine going yesterday - sounds killer - someone do a panel for this thing!!!
using the 2 batteries with ground tap now - anyone have any ideas for getting power into it in a tidy way in euro? we can stick a 3 pin header in there - and then what? thought about soldering a ribbon in but would like to find a cooler way.



mckenic

Audio or it didnt happen!

Ive not yet read the bom or anything so please forgive the stupid question - is it possible to put a pot or a switch in there for decay?

thumbs up


bsmith

there's a pot for decay - pots are for freq, tone, decay, and level.
can go pretty fuckin long. maybe will do a quicky demo tomorrow.


mckenic

thumbs up

Doh!

Thanks mate!


tony d

bsmith wrote:
got mine going yesterday - sounds killer - someone do a panel for this thing!!!
using the 2 batteries with ground tap now - anyone have any ideas for getting power into it in a tidy way in euro?


I came to the realization that i'm going to be building a bunch of stuff that does not have euro headers so i put a busboard of the "motm" style connectors from Ken Stone in my euro case.No more weird 4 pin spliced into ribbon cables.


tony d

So a couple questions:

The output level seems to be a little low is anyone else experiencing this ?(peaking at -10db)

Also, how are you guys wiring the accent ? The way i have it right now is on a normally closed jack wired to the trig input so that i get a kick if there's no accent present but i can insert an accent,the only problem is then i only get a kick when an accent is present.Little boggled over this one so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for any input guys,
Tony


ringroad1

nuff respect to Jesse for getting this out, got mine on Tuesday, just got it going.

Running off +/-12v, and triggering from the tom outs on a 606, it sounds good, I don't have an 808 to compare it to directly, but it sounds like an 808 all right. I think I've built it up according to the BOM, only thing is I used a 43k resistor instead of the 42.2k, and combined two resistors to get 5.98k-ish instead of 5.9k.

The decay seems pretty twitchy, it's a fine line between a long delay and long ringing self-oscillating madness. I'm wondering if I'd be better off with the stock 47k instead of the mod 42.k/43k.

I had the same issue as Tony D - wiring a voltage divider up and sending about 6-7v into the accent by default made it work as expected.


tony d

Hey Ringroad,
Did you just tap off of the positive side of your supply to accent ? I'm just a little concerned of having a positive voltage getting sent to whatever i'm using to accent with which is why i didn't do that but maybe i don't need to worry about that?

Also, the decay on mine seems to work as expected.I'm definitely not getting any ringing, but i did just use Jesse's bom so i had all the exact parts he specified.


ringroad1

eek, yes I did. I dunno about voltage going to the trigger source - I guess I could use a diode to make it one way only?

also, are you on 9v or 12v?

Some discussion about stripboarding the 808 bass drum here:

http://electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37646&postorder=asc


bananeurysm

tony d wrote:
"your shaking all the damn dishes in the cabinet"


Awesome! So glad you guys are getting these things thumpin! That quote is the best ever.

I haven't measured output with varying trigger or accent sources - so I can't speak off the top of my head to that. If someone comes up with something conclusive I'd love to hear/know!

Having built a few myself, and having helped 5 or 6 folks build others - I can say that the trigger length varied signifcantly from build to build. I'm not sure if it's due to transistor varience, or just in-tolerance resistor value differences, but eitherway there's probably no substitute for throwing a pot into that resistor footprint and tweaking it until you ID the resistor value you like for your circuit!

I just shipped another round of boards today. I still have more if folks want. SlayerBadger!


tony d

ringroad1 wrote:
eek, yes I did. I dunno about voltage going to the trigger source - I guess I could use a diode to make it one way only?

also, are you on 9v or 12v?

Some discussion about stripboarding the 808 bass drum here:

http://electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37646&postorder=asc


Ok, i think i can use it the way i'd like with my sequencer i just couldn't get my head around it at first.
The diode is a good idea i think i'll give that a shot because i did find the more voltage i gave it the louder it got overall.

Thanks for linking that thread at em that had some good info.


ringroad1

fwiw, 808 service manual says the trigger length is 1ms.

Jesse, does your circuit incorporate the snippet that Eric Archer called the "trigger glue"? (on his 808 clone page?)


bananeurysm

ringroad1 wrote:
fwiw, 808 service manual says the trigger length is 1ms.

Jesse, does your circuit incorporate the snippet that Eric Archer called the "trigger glue"? (on his 808 clone page?)


Yep!

Also - I've been informed that my mouser BOM is short a 100k resistor. I updated it JUST now. Sorry for any mixup! (I figure most of us have those lying around though. . .)


ringroad1

Here's some short demos of my build, just to show the difference between 12v and 15v.

12v:
[s]http://soundcloud.com/ringroad/808-kick-on-12v-4db[/s]

15v:
[s]http://soundcloud.com/ringroad/808-kick-on-15v-4db[/s]

Triggering from TR-606 trigger outs, TL072 swapped out for a JRC4558, not that I think that makes much difference. Didn't touch the controls of the 808 whilst I was recording and they're at the same relative level.


ringstone

BTW the 808 snare drum seems to be the circuit that is most sensitive to trigger length. Although Eric Archer's trigger trigger conditioning circuit does get it close to sounding like the real thing I didn't get 100% satisfaction with my clone until I started using Silent Way to trigger directly (without the conditioning circuit), so I could really fine-tune things. Using an ES-3 will give a good range of trigger voltages too.

Cheers
Blair


bananeurysm

ringroad1 wrote:
Here's some short demos of my build, just to show the difference between 12v and 15v.


Wow- big difference there! It seems like you're getting random fluctuations with on your 12V demo. Are you using a similarly stable power supply for both?

With 9v batteries my kicks have been boomy and consistant.. I'll try to post a demo when I get a chance to record it.. though I probably won't make it to my shop for a weekish. Maybe someone else has a battery powered build handy to throw a demo up?


ringroad1

Yep, hats off thumbs up - just tried it again with two 9v batteries, and also with the 15v supply and it's not such a big difference between the two. There must be something up with my 12v. Which might explain a few other things.

Again, same settings, not touching volume or anything, accent on everything.

9v:
[s]http://soundcloud.com/ringroad/808-9v-mono[/s]

15v
[s]http://soundcloud.com/ringroad/808-15v-mono[/s]

There's still some slight variation in kicks in either case, but I'd expect that.

I've been trawling through the sdiy archives, and Colin Fraser says...

Quote:
One thing to be careful of with a lot of the 808 sounds...
They use hi-q twin-t filters that are very close to oscillation. The trigger
pulse hits the filter, causing it to oscillate for a short time, but then
decay to silence.
You have to be careful to keep any wiring to tune pots as short as possible,
otherwise these filters will pick up and boost any mains hum they can find,
especially if the filter is tuned near a harmonic of mains frequency.
A better design would mount the pots on the PCB, just as the original did.


The wires to my pots are pretty long, so that could be the reason for the overexcited ringing oscillation on my build past a certain decay point.


bananeurysm

Ahh cool. Thanks for following up!

I wonder if what I was noticing re: decay responses differing between builds was directly related to wire length on the tune pot.


emdot_ambient

Just got mine!

FYI, though, the mounting holes are too close to some of the components for me to use the standoffs I typically use (4-40 aluminum hex). The standoffs will touch the solder points and create shorts...probably will have to get some nylon ones or something smaller in diameter.


emdot_ambient

...Also...the three 0.1uF caps on the BOM are no longer stocked.

581-SR201E104MARTR1 would probably do the job.

thumbs up

[Edit] Looking over the mouser BOM a bit more...

Which controls to these pots correspond to:
A 100K
B 500K
B 100K
A 10K

Why did you use stereo jacks? hmmm.....

The 220 ohms resistors is rated to 1/2watt...not important? 1/4watt fine? I assume you just chose this one 'cause it was the cheapest.


jumunius

ringroad1 wrote:
The wires to my pots are pretty long, so that could be the reason for the overexcited ringing oscillation on my build past a certain decay point.


I'm pretty sure this hints at the better explanation of your overexcited ringing oscillation:

Quote:
The trigger pulse hits the filter, causing it to oscillate for a short time, but then decay to silence.


If you set your decay too long, you just get self-oscillation and no decaying to silence. I'd think the design would set your max decay short of self oscillation but maybe not (sometimes a little self-oscillation at the max can be desirable). Or maybe slight variations (>5% in resistors?) could be a factor. I don't know where the 5.9k and 42.2k are in the circuit, for instance.

As for the wiring, I built a CGS Drum Simulator (dual Twin-T drum voice) and monkeyed around with it a bit, bringing all the things to the panel that Ken suggested leaving off the panel. Mr. Green I definitely experience self-oscillation if I overdo the decay. I also made myself a very extreme tune knob, which definitely did get noisier with more wire (such as when I was testing w/ clips). I ultimately used shielded cable for my tune pot, which IIRC helped matters a bit, but at extreme settings (ones which are way out of whack with the Twin-T design) I do pick up slight extraneous hums. However we're talking like up in the range where my bass drum voice sounds like a metronome click, not anywhere near where I expect you'd want to tune your 808 kick!


bananeurysm

emdot_ambient wrote:
...Also...the three 0.1uF caps on the BOM are no longer stocked.

581-SR201E104MARTR1 would probably do the job.

thumbs up

[Edit] Looking over the mouser BOM a bit more...

Which controls to these pots correspond to:
A 100K
B 500K
B 100K
A 10K

Why did you use stereo jacks? hmmm.....

The 220 ohms resistors is rated to 1/2watt...not important? 1/4watt fine? I assume you just chose this one 'cause it was the cheapest.


The pots values are labelled on the board - but it's pretty small/hard to read!
Freq: 100ka
Tone: 10ka
Decay: 500kB
Level: 100kB

1/2 watt resistor isn't important - 1/4 is fine all around.

I just always use stereo jacks for 1/4" projects - simply so I always have the same jack lying around. Mono is fine. Sorry about the mounting holes! If I do another run I'll take a good look at that. Thanks for the tip!


marvkaye

What's the deal with the accent input??? It's been suggested that it needs to be a constant voltage tapped off a divider from the power source... I would have thought it should respond to a second trigger that causes that particular beat to "accent", thus the name. Am I missing something here? How does it work, really?? seriously, i just don't get it

<marv>


bananeurysm

You can think of the accent as a VC input for amplitude.. offset from 0.

So by default, the thing will make no sound. If you're feeding it a constant voltage - it will sound when triggered, at an amplitude directly related to the accent voltage.

I should look at the 808 schematics, but I assume the 'accent' pot is a voltage divider between the power supply and the steps. By default (or with the pot at 0), some voltage gets applied to the accent input on all steps. When you turn the pot up.. more voltage gets applied to steps that have 'accent' selected.

Make sense?


marvkaye

bananeurysm wrote:
You can think of the accent as a VC input for amplitude.. offset from 0.

So by default, the thing will make no sound. If you're feeding it a constant voltage - it will sound when triggered, at an amplitude directly related to the accent voltage.

I should look at the 808 schematics, but I assume the 'accent' pot is a voltage divider between the power supply and the steps. By default (or with the pot at 0), some voltage gets applied to the accent input on all steps. When you turn the pot up.. more voltage gets applied to steps that have 'accent' selected.

Make sense?


Thanks, bananeurysm, makes sense. However, it appears that the only pots that are called for are freq, tone, decay & level. It sounds like the base voltage for accent should come from the level pot, or at least be related to it. I don't have a problem adding another pot specifically for accent, but not if it's already covered. I'm going to have a look at the schematics as well, but suspect that's going to engender some new questions. Anyway, I'm glad we're talking about this and appreciate the help.

<marv>


emdot_ambient

marvkaye wrote:
...It sounds like the base voltage for accent should come from the level pot, or at least be related to it.

That makes sense to me. I've read other threads discussing the Accent input and I never really understood how that was supposed to work. But this does.

I haven't looked at the schematics (not very good with them actually), but it seems like the level knob should set the base level and then an additional application of voltage to an Accent input would temporarily increase the level. That way the CV of a sequencer's steps could modulate the accent.

However, IIRC, in the original the accent was a global level and at the step level you could only turn it on and off. So in that configuration, the Level knob would set overall volume and the Accent knob would set the amount of additional volume on any accented note...which makes it sound like a gate was applied to the Accent input and the Accent knob was setting the voltage of the gate. hmmm.....


marvkaye

The complete TR808 schematic is pretty much over my head, although it looks to me like the Level pot is setup to adjust AC only (I'd have thought that would be a log taper, not linear... shows you what I know hmmm..... ) Anyway, way back on another page of the schematic it does show that the Accent pot is a voltage divider from +5 to +15, and while I'm at a total loss to suggest what spits out of the circuitry it controls and winds up being the Accent signal, I suspect it's some range of positive voltage that is proportional to what is set on that pot. Also, since the Accent contributes to everything in the TR808, it looks like a separate pot for it in our BD application is most likely in order. All that being said, I guess it makes sense to use it as the base voltage for a CV input to the Accent jack so now we need to determine the proper range of voltages for it so it doesn't get overdriven. Or maybe not??? seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it

<marv>


ringroad1

marvkaye wrote:
All that being said, I guess it makes sense to use it as the base voltage for a CV input to the Accent jack so now we need to determine the proper range of voltages for it so it doesn't get overdriven. Or maybe not??? seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it

<marv>


Accent voltage is between 4 and 14v, as far as I can tell from the service manual. On my setup, turning up the voltage resistor pot just means less of a difference between an accented step and a normal step, which is as I'd expect.


bananeurysm

It doesn't really make sense to put an accent pot on the pcb as there is already a volume pot. It makes more sense to me to consider using a sequencer row for accent controls. Or you could always just feed it an attenuated LFO or something.

The way it works on the 808/606/707 is as a global volume offset applied on specific steps. So you could make your downbeats louder for example. Personally I find it most useful for programming hats. Throwing in accents here and there makes them nice and dynamic. smile If you have a bunch of drum modules, you could certainly mult out from a CV sequencer row and do global accents that way.

I believe the 909 has per voice accent controls. You could simulate that with a step sequencer if you wanted.. you'd just need to dedicate a CV row to every drum sound. Maybe overkill. smile

I don't usually use the accent on mine - I just tie it high and trigger the module with my drum machines.. or cmos clock divider. smile

When I get closer to having a modular drum machine I'll probably use it.


marvkaye

I like the idea of using a sequencer row to control accented beats, it make a lot of sense to me. So do I need to add a non-inverting summing amp between the accent jack and accent input?? One of the inputs provide the base (non-accented) voltage that lets the unit have an output, the second input would come from the accent jack and add the CV from the sequencer. For stronger accent just turn up the CV.

After looking closely at the PCB it appears that the accent pad on the PCB goes directly to non-inverting input B of the TL072, so could it be as simple as connecting that to the common end of a pair of (10K?... 100K?) resistors in parallel, with 5V to the other end one of them as the base voltage, and the signal from the accent jack to the other one? That would be a pretty simple solution.

<marv>


marvkaye

On another note... I noticed that this PCB calls for one 1N914 and two 1N4148 diodes. In all the discussions I've read, the consensus of contributors seems to be that these components are interchangeable. AAMOF, the Fairchild datasheet is the same one for both of these guys... So now I'm curious... why, on this board, are they both specified? hmmm.....

<marv>


jumunius

marvkaye wrote:
On another note... I noticed that this PCB calls for one 1N914 and two 1N4148 diodes... So now I'm curious... why, on this board, are they both specified?


Numerology?


bananeurysm

Not numerology, just oversight. The original roland schematic calls for a 1N4148 diode, and I mimicked that exactly, Eric Archer's 'trigger glue' calls for a 1N914 diode, and I mimicked that exactly.

If I do another rev, maybe I'll make them both the same. I know folks have built it with 2 1N4148s.

marvkaye I would post the schematic, but I'm not sure if it would infringe on any patents - as it's basically redrawn from the service manual. It is readily available/easy to find on the web though. Do share any developments/modifications you might make! thumbs up


meatcliff

got if fast thanks!


reve

EDIT: nevermind. But I can verify that the original transistors work without other component changes... at least for the tone generator. I've got something hosed in the output buffer.

EDIT OF EDITED EDIT: Again, nevermind. Bad T5. What the hell? I've never had a bad transistor.

In summary, SOUNDS TOTES AWESOME.


reve

So... was there a consensus on accent wiring for those of us forsaking the accent input or normalling a jack? I saw people suggest voltage dividers, etc.


redlobsta

My 808 is working but is clicking at every time it is triggered anyone else having this problem? I've double checked my wiring hmmm.....
Also my tone pot doesn't seem to do anything, what is it supposed to sound like as I change the tone pot?


tony d

The tone pot will add what you may be hearing as a click? You should just get a smooth kick with no sound on the high end with the tone knob all the way down. Maybe check the wiring 1 more time on your tone pot.


frequencycentral

Any PCBs left? Or failing that, anyone have a spare?


Juxwl

Anyone done a panel design for this? Clarke68?


mckenic

Im sorry to be a PITA but Im hoping some of you good folks that have your 808 PCB running might help a fella out please?

I'm not getting any sound - I had to make some substitutions -

5.9K - I used - 5.6k.
1N914 - I used 1N4148 for the 3 diodes.
TL072IP - I used - TL072CN (KFL838).

In the pic below (for the accent, trig & out) is pad 2 indicated, the ground and pad one goes to the signal of the jack please?

On the opamp - Im getting 11.9v on pin4 and -11.9 on pin8 but nothing else on any other pins.



I have + power pin going to +12v, the Ground to ground and the - power pin going to -12v on a ribbon cable going to my Doepfer DIY psu. Reading +12v at the + power point on the PCB and -11.9v at the - point on the PCB.

Using a Doepfer A-145 square into uStep. uStep set to 8 steps with output A being triggered on every step and output B triggered on every 2nd step. uStep A is going to Trig In and B to Acc.

I wonder please if anyone might have some points I could probe and what I should be getting please?

Thank you Wigglers for any help - it will be GREATLY appreciated... sorry for being a PITA!

Dave

No magic smoke


jumunius

mckenic wrote:
On the opamp - Im getting 11.9v on pin4 and -11.9 on pin8 but nothing else on any other pins.


That seems backwards. Pinout for TL072 is VCC+ on pin8 and VCC- on pin4.

Note that if indeed you have the power wired backwards, you may have fried your IC and/or transistors.


jumunius

As an afterthought, if you reverse your multimeter probes, you will get voltage readings with +/- values flipped. The one time I did this and didn't realize what I'd done, I remounted my power header in reverse and plugged it back in before thinking through what might have happened. d'oh! I fried at least one IC, maybe more (haven't been back to troubleshoot further since I don't have replacement chips on hand).

So in case it needs being said, don't be rash when messing with polarity. Don't reverse polarity of your power connector unless you really know that's the issue. In fact, it might be safest to do some spot checking (check that your TL072 is mounted in the right direction, etc) before even powering on again.


mckenic

Thank you VERY, VERY much jumunius!

I'm going to do some troubleshooting this afternoon - as you said, double checking polarity (THINK Im ok but never the less!), the mounting of the power connection, the diodes, the TL072 and after all that switch the ground/signal on my jacks just to check!

Thank you very much for your ideas! REALLY very much appreciated! I will of course post back in a bit! thumbs up


mckenic

Please dont laugh... on 2nd thoughts do if you want I dont mind as - ITS WORKING! Woo Hoo!

Friggin had my pots wired backwards - I feel like an idiot!!! very frustrating very frustrating very frustrating

But the GREAT thing is I didnt fry anything or do anything silly It's peanut butter jelly time!
There are a few loose connections as when I jiggle pots I get ground hum and drop-outs but that is sortable.

Its a little low volume wise, is that related to the 'accent'? Can I just run 2 wires from level or the 12v to the 'accent' as currently (sic) I wont be using accent?

I used the Factory decay 47k as that is what I had to hand - how low can I go here anyone know please? I'd love to have the choice to have it as is now but also to go squealing crazy self-oscillation...

Anyway - thank you all for putting up with me! Im bloomin THRILLED!

WOO HOO!


jumunius

mckenic wrote:
Please dont laugh... on 2nd thoughts do if you want I dont mind as - ITS WORKING! Woo Hoo!

Friggin had my pots wired backwards - I feel like an idiot!!! very frustrating very frustrating very frustrating

But the GREAT thing is I didnt fry anything or do anything silly It's peanut butter jelly time!
There are a few loose connections as when I jiggle pots I get ground hum and drop-outs but that is sortable.

Its a little low volume wise, is that related to the 'accent'?


Speaking as someone who is generally incapable of wiring pots forwards, you have nothing to be embarrassed about. Glad to hear nothing got fried -- precisely the reason I wanted to emphasize not to reverse any polarities yet! thumbs up

As for the volume issue, I'd recommend fixing all your loose wiring before determining it's too quiet.


bsmith

I don't have mine paneled, but have checked it out with 12v supply running the +12 over to the accent in as an offset to keep it up and it worked fine. I guess what might work would be running the voltage over to the normalling post on the accent jack (on a switched mono jack), so if you wanted to use something besides the +12 it would shut off on the accent in as soon as something was plugged into that jack.


mckenic

... and I have Erthenvar 'switching' jacks that I had right EXCEPT for the output - sending to the switch pin instead of to the signal pin! very frustrating

Thanks jumunius! thumbs up

Will tidy this up and ask questions then! Thanks mate!


mckenic

Thank you bsmith!

Will try that and report back!
thumbs up


tony d

bsmith wrote:
I guess what might work would be running the voltage over to the normalling post on the accent jack (on a switched mono jack), so if you wanted to use something besides the +12 it would shut off on the accent in as soon as something was plugged into that jack.


This is how i have mine wired.The only problem is you will only get sound when you have some sort of voltage present along with the trigger so if you do it this way just keep that in mind.


Emalot

My PCB arrived!! w00t w00t


mckenic

Just a quick post back to say THANK YOU!

Tying the 12v to accent works wonderfully and Im 100% up and running Woo Hoo! Im still new enough to diy and have enough gaps in my knowledge to be surprised and delighted when things work out so well!

Thanks for all the help and patience thumbs up


mckenic

Woo Hoo!

I learned SO MUCH doing this project - thank you very, very much bananeurysm!!! thumbs up Hug

I learned, pots are awkward to put on a panel! smile I have some ABS so decided to do a panel. Its JUST that little bit skinny but its ok as the kick will live to the left of my case where there is a little 1hp or so gap - this will allow for the pots which had to be mounted sideways smile

Lots of little silly things but MAN! Im a happy bunny! Woo Hoo!




tony d

Awesome man !

I've definitely been enjoying mine.As i said before i don't have an 808 to make any comparisons (nor do i care) but i really think it sounds great.


mckenic

thumbs up

Bring on the next one! Cowbell? Rimshot? Claves?


bananeurysm

Rad! Just checked in after not watching for forum for awhile. Awesome to see so many thumpin drums out there!

Either the 909BD or the Simmons SDS3 (general purpose drum) will be next. I don't have an eta - but I'm working on em both. Troubleshooting my 909BD pcb, and prototyping the SDS3.

808 Clap, rimshot, and 606 hats are all on my wishlist. But I'm getting WAY ahead of myself there. smile

Also reve - I don't know if anyone really replied to your questions about 'accent' wiring consensus. But afaik most people have been building these with the accent simply tied high. You can always remove the wire if you wanna sequence volume later.

<edit> Also I do still have some PCBs left. Shoot me a PM if you still want some.


Emalot

I just finished my 808 Kick drum module, and it's a really nice module!!!
I have TR606 and i love it but Kick is really soft on this. Now i have a BIG 808 kick and the mix of both is nanners nanners


bananeurysm

Rad! Glad it's workin out! That was exactly my setup when I first designed the board. (606 + 808kick module).. I've since gotten an 808 - but I'm thinking about going back to the 606 + 808kick for gigging. . .


negativspace

606 + 808 kick, check! (TipTop's; I haven't built the board I got from you yet.) I always preferred the 606's hats to the 808s, although the 808 has a much better ride.

I've got a DrumDokta in there too, tons of fun with percussion in that little combo.


mono-poly

Do you got pcbs avaible?

Sds3 clone would be awesome!


julian

I am thinking about making this panel -



Would anyone else be interested if i do?

One thing im not sure of though -

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?


mckenic

Hell Yes!


loydb

julian wrote:

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?


How about "Fauxland"? smile


Juxwl

julian wrote:
I am thinking about making this panel -



Would anyone else be interested if i do?

One thing im not sure of though -

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?


Count me in for one if you make it (with or without Roland on it). Looks great!


bananeurysm

julian wrote:
I am thinking about making this panel -



Would anyone else be interested if i do?

One thing im not sure of though -

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?


I want one!! I like the roland text a lot. It's their engineering - I like propping that up. I wonder if you can get the font even closer.. or I'd be happy to supply high res photos of the lettering on my 808.. maybe you could modify/vectorize/do whatever you graphic people do to it?


julian

bananeurysm wrote:


I want one!! I like the roland text a lot. It's their engineering - I like propping that up. I wonder if you can get the font even closer.. or I'd be happy to supply high res photos of the lettering on my 808.. maybe you could modify/vectorize/do whatever you graphic people do to it?



The 'roland' at the bottom is the same font as the words on the dials etc (trigger, freq etc) and then the 'tr808' at the top is another font.

Its possible to change the 'roland' but then there would be a mix of three fonts, and i think two is the maximum on a small panel. I was even unsure about using two.

I think the panels would be GBP 20 each. I know that seems a lot compared to the metal photo offerings, but for this one, we're talking rotary engraving, on matt black anodised, with two sepperate infill colours - nothing like that is possible with metal photo.


If people are keen, rather than clutter up the thread, just send me a simple PM and ill update the list below -

Euro panels as per screen grab @ GBP 20 ea -

Julian 4-off
Juxwl 1-off
amalthea 1-off
trainspotter 1-off (& 1-off sequential switch)
mono-poly 1-off
mOBiTh 2-off
samih 1-off

5u pannels (basic @ GBP 20, fancier @ GBP 26)

thebot 1-off (either)
Paradigm X 1-off (fancier)
bananeurysm 1-off (fancier)


bananeurysm

I think ppl should post in this thread if they want to order panels from you.. yes it clutters the thread - but it also makes it more visible - and thus more likely to be found by interested parties. I'm stoked on what you're offering!


julian

Ive just been messing about with a 5u version.

To make a 5u panel with minimal line work, rather like the Oakley modules, would be cheap - no more expensive than the euro version above.

This is because, although theres a load more metal involved, and it would take longer to mill, the 5u panels normaly just use single stroke fonts, and normally just white infill. In short, the metal and the milling would be more expensive, but the engraving would be cheaper, so, at the end of it all, itlld equal the euro panel, with its fancier engravng and adiitional line work / colours.


So, if there's interest, i can do a 'minimalist' Oakley style 5u panel, or, if people would like, i can do a fancier 5u panel, more like the euro panel - but then a) itlld cost a little more, and b) it would stand out more in the traditional all black/white motm style systems (which some people may like, and others may not like?)

This is an example of an Oakley VCO, to give an idea of the 'minimalist' styling (which conforms to MOTM component placing)




Or i can do the same but with fancier text, and colours?

Im not making the 5u panels for myself, so if people want them, ill make them however people decide they want them : )


julian

Ill try and do some screen grabs later, however -

5u panel in Oakley 'minimalist' style - GBP 20
5u panel in mutistroke, with colour and line work (like the euro pane screen grab) - GBP 26

Im happy to make the 'minimalist' one in 1-offs as i can run it with other similar panels.

Im happy to make the euro panel in whatever numbers, so long as i make them on the same run as when i make my own panels (so it doesnt matter how many people want them, as ill be doinig my own anyhow - but the others need to be done at the same time, else they would work out a fair amount more expensive)

Im happy to make the more complex 5u panels, but, the GBP 26 price would require a few orders, as its not realy worth grinding the custom cutters that would be required for a 1-off (or at least not at the GBP 26 price)

Ill try and get some screen grabs of all of them, and update the thread.


thebot

I'll have one of the 5U panels Julian - whichever, I'm easy. If there's numbers needed for the more complicated one I'll spring for that, if not happy with the simpler one.

Cheers!


amalthea

julian wrote:
I am thinking about making this panel -



Would anyone else be interested if i do?

One thing im not sure of though -

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?


Put me down for one euro panel, please!

And FWIW, I'm totally fine with having Roland on there.

SlayerBadger!


Paradigm X

thebot wrote:
I'll have one of the 5U panels Julian - whichever, I'm easy. If there's numbers needed for the more complicated one I'll spring for that, if not happy with the simpler one.

Cheers!


+1

Ive got a different 808 pcb tho, need to check what functions it has! Its a pretty simple circuit afaict and should be able to make it fit the panel.


julian

Paradigm X wrote:


Ive got a different 808 pcb tho, need to check what functions it has! Its a pretty simple circuit afaict and should be able to make it fit the panel.



Do you want either 5u panel, or a specific one?


mono-poly

I'd like a panel


julian

mono-poly wrote:
I'd like a panel


there's three to choose from - which shall i put you down for?


Paradigm X

i was actually (quickly due to time) agreeing with thebot- prefer the 5u £26 bells and whistles version but either would be fine, depending on numbers, what others are doing too.

Cheers.

would making some, say, oakley panels at the same time be helpful, in terms of cost ? i need a few making up anyway...

cheers


julian

Paradigm X wrote:
i was actually (quickly due to time) agreeing with thebot- prefer the 5u £26 bells and whistles version but either would be fine, depending on numbers, what others are doing too.

Cheers.

would making some, say, oakley panels at the same time be helpful, in terms of cost ? i need a few making up anyway...

cheers


the 5u panel with the colour would use different cutters to the normal 5u panels, so, whilst they could both be cut from the same physical sheet of metal, the tools would be different, and the engraving would need to be done on different passes, so no real advantage im afraid.

the numbers for the 808 panels are building slowly though, so id like to think you will be able to get your colour panel anyhow : )


mono-poly

julian wrote:
mono-poly wrote:
I'd like a panel


there's three to choose from - which shall i put you down for?



Euro!


Paradigm X

julian wrote:
Paradigm X wrote:
i was actually (quickly due to time) agreeing with thebot- prefer the 5u £26 bells and whistles version but either would be fine, depending on numbers, what others are doing too.

Cheers.

would making some, say, oakley panels at the same time be helpful, in terms of cost ? i need a few making up anyway...

cheers


the 5u panel with the colour would use different cutters to the normal 5u panels, so, whilst they could both be cut from the same physical sheet of metal, the tools would be different, and the engraving would need to be done on different passes, so no real advantage im afraid.

the numbers for the 808 panels are building slowly though, so id like to think you will be able to get your colour panel anyhow : )


OK cool. Im happy with the plain one tho, is it only me and thebot in for an 808 one so far?

I need about 4 oakley 2u ones doing FWIW. Cheers

edit:

As a noob at all this im only now realising what an important part the panel is... ive got a load of pcbs lying around i cant really do anything with until i get some panels sorted. Need to think about this in advance a bit more methinks!

cheers


ringstone

I really preferred the 808 BD panel that Bleeps designed... what happened to that?

Cheers
Blair


julian

ringstone wrote:
I really preferred the 808 BD panel that Bleeps designed... what happened to that?

Cheers
Blair


Dunno.. nuffink to do with me ; )

(searching using keyword "808" author "Bleeps" returns 0 hits)


ringstone

julian wrote:
ringstone wrote:
I really preferred the 808 BD panel that Bleeps designed... what happened to that?

Cheers
Blair


Dunno.. nuffink to do with me ; )

(searching using keyword "808" author "Bleeps" returns 0 hits)


Um... it's in the thread you have linked to in your sig? You asked whether the artwork was in the right format...

Cheers
Blair


julian

Ahh... Ok!

(sometimes i dont see the wood for the trees)

I think, at some point, ill be cutting them also, so, if you want one of those, keep an eye on the other thread too.

They will work out a bit cheaper than the black ones, but you may have to wait longer for them (due to the run size there).

Id have mentioned it here, had i have realised!

(note: bleeps has not supplied the vector art for them just yet - but then i havent realy asked hard for anything yet either!)


ringstone

No worries, I was just confused by the fact there were two designs. Bleeps has cleared this up in the other thread anyway w00t

Cheers
Blair


mOBiTh

Julian I'm in for two panels please. With Roland is fine by me!

Cheers

Matt


Emalot

hello,
Has someone made a MODS to have a longer decay??
I guess I need to change the pot of decay (for now I have a 500K Lin) but there maybe other things to do?
thank you

EDIT SORRY, i just read in http://www.anestheticaudio.com/?page_id=153 the mods to have more Decay! THX

REEDIT:
I change the 42,2K Resistor and put a 39K and the result is not very well, the signal is continious when the Decay Pots is more than 3/4. sad banana
Which value do you use to have more decay than with 42,2K??


Mongo1

I'd probably like to get a pair of these, but wondered if anyone would be kind enough to do a more comprehensive audio demo. You know, tweak some knobs and stuff???

Thanks
Gary


ringstone

Emalot wrote:
hello,
Has someone made a MODS to have a longer decay??
I guess I need to change the pot of decay (for now I have a 500K Lin) but there maybe other things to do?
thank you

EDIT SORRY, i just read in http://www.anestheticaudio.com/?page_id=153 the mods to have more Decay! THX

REEDIT:
I change the 42,2K Resistor and put a 39K and the result is not very well, the signal is continious when the Decay Pots is more than 3/4. sad banana
Which value do you use to have more decay than with 42,2K??


Perhaps replace with a 50k trimmer so you can fine-tune the value? It's pretty sensitive...

Cheers
Blair


julian

just a brief note -

as some of you know, we are in the process of moving location, and do not currently have as good access to the machinery as id like.

i have some time on the cutting machines next week, and may cut the black euro 808 panels then.

so, if anyone wanting them, and has not got their name on the list a few posts up, then speak now, or forever...


Paradigm X

since it looks liek only me and thebot are after a 5u one, can we go basic 'oakley' style and get a few more oakley panels done at the same time if thats cheaper/easier/cheaper and easier?

That would be awesome if no one else minds

Noice juan.


boothnavy

Paradigm X wrote:
since it looks liek only me and thebot are after a 5u one, can we go basic 'oakley' style and get a few more oakley panels done at the same time if thats cheaper/easier/cheaper and easier?

That would be awesome if no one else minds

Noice juan.


I'm building a couple 5u ones, if you want in on a panel.


julian

Paradigm X wrote:
since it looks liek only me and thebot are after a 5u one, can we go basic 'oakley' style and get a few more oakley panels done at the same time if thats cheaper/easier/cheaper and easier?

That would be awesome if no one else minds

Noice juan.


I think bananeurysm is after one as well, so ive added his name to the list.

I was probably going to leave the 5u for a couple more weeks, and see what happened - if three of you want the colour 5u panels, and youre happy to wait a little while, ill cut them when i have a moment.


julian

boothnavy wrote:

I'm building a couple 5u ones, if you want in on a panel.


Was that that you wanted panels, or that you were offering?

(i cant make out either way!)


tony d

Just in case you were just sitting there wondering what this kick sounds like through a distortion pedal, well here you go:

[s]http://soundcloud.com/planespace/808-kick-clone-distortion[/s]


boothnavy

julian wrote:
boothnavy wrote:

I'm building a couple 5u ones, if you want in on a panel.


Was that that you wanted panels, or that you were offering?

(i cant make out either way!)


I was sayIng I was going to be designing and making a couPle. Wasn't trying to take orders away from you. I didn't see that you had offered to make some. Sorry for that.


strategy

Bananeurysm can confirm that I got my kick drum up and rocking as he was at my show here in Portland Saturday nite 8_)

But there is a weird issue with my build maybe someone on the forum knowledgeable about 606 can help out.

My TR606 triggers don't seem to trigger the 808 kick drum. For others this has not been the case. I'm trying to figure out if it's an issue with my build or my 606. I still need to measure the outgoing trigger voltages. I am thinking it's possible the voltage is not high enough, or maybe there's a weird grounding issue between the two. Triggering 808 kick drum from my Frostwave sequencer sounds great without any problems.

Any help/advice appreciated!

Strategy


Juxwl

strategy wrote:
Bananeurysm can confirm that I got my kick drum up and rocking as he was at my show here in Portland Saturday nite 8_)

But there is a weird issue with my build maybe someone on the forum knowledgeable about 606 can help out.

My TR606 triggers don't seem to trigger the 808 kick drum. For others this has not been the case. I'm trying to figure out if it's an issue with my build or my 606. I still need to measure the outgoing trigger voltages. I am thinking it's possible the voltage is not high enough, or maybe there's a weird grounding issue between the two. Triggering 808 kick drum from my Frostwave sequencer sounds great without any problems.

Any help/advice appreciated!

Strategy


Do the 606 triggers work to trigger other devices? My 606 would not trigger an HC-2 with one power supply, but works fine with a different supply. hmmm..... Everything else works fine with both power supplies, only triggers were affected with the one.

I haven't got my 808 up an running yet, so I can't confirm with it, but maybe try different pwr supplies. 606 puts out strong trigger voltages (i think 15v) so I doubt the voltage isn't high enough.


robot909

Are the schematics for this pcb available to look at?
I received the pcb and waiting for the components. Would love to check out the schematics for learning purposes.

thank you!


mOBiTh

my vote goes for a classy 808 or 909 rimshot with nice modulation possibilities!


defenestration

so got mine kickin but having some issues with decay and level pots, perhaps I wired them up wrong?

the center of the decay pot is actually the longest decay and either extreme brings to me to a very short decay

the level pot has its loudest point almost all the way fully clockwise, but then as I reach the extreme it cuts out

here is an audio demo, I start messing with the decay and level after the halfway mark http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11904126/tweaking-1.wav

dunno what to look for, anyone have suggestions? already replaced the level + decay pots, might try wiring up test leads for the decay resistor and trying some values out to see what happens

currently testing on 9v batteries


robot909

Finally got to work on the PCB. It is populated with components. Next, I'll think of a way to interface the pots and jacks. I plan on building a mounting frame for the pcb, made from brass. But before, I'll test it out make sure it works. Going to to make it look good!

Here is some pcb porn...

oh, btw. This is a challenge to solder, not for a beginner.













strategy

Juxwl wrote:


Do the 606 triggers work to trigger other devices? My 606 would not trigger an HC-2 with one power supply, but works fine with a different supply. hmmm..... Everything else works fine with both power supplies, only triggers were affected with the one.

I haven't got my 808 up an running yet, so I can't confirm with it, but maybe try different pwr supplies. 606 puts out strong trigger voltages (i think 15v) so I doubt the voltage isn't high enough.


the 606 triggers work with many other devices without any problem. I measured the pulses they are only coming out at 3-4V!!! I'm shocked. for the 606, I'm using a 9V power supply at 300mA. i guess I need to use something with more current to get a bigger trigger output?? Or else get a repair.

Strategy


obscurerobot

It looks like http://www.anestheticaudio.com/ has been hacked.


robot909

Here is some of my progress building the housing for the 808 pcb. It is all made from brass. Still need to work on the faceplate, pcb mount and power connector mount. The faceplate will hide the screws that mount the pots and jacks, so it is all flush and clean looking. The face will be made from copper.




[/img]


mOBiTh

heavy duty!!! hihi


theabsent

obscurerobot wrote:
It looks like http://www.anestheticaudio.com/ has been hacked.


indeed : (


MoonMoose

HEYYY! just got my pcb! anybody used BC546B instead of A?


Juxwl

julian wrote:
just a brief note -

as some of you know, we are in the process of moving location, and do not currently have as good access to the machinery as id like.

i have some time on the cutting machines next week, and may cut the black euro 808 panels then.

so, if anyone wanting them, and has not got their name on the list a few posts up, then speak now, or forever...


How are things coming along, Julian? hyper


mckenic

julian wrote:
just a brief note -

as some of you know, we are in the process of moving location, and do not currently have as good access to the machinery as id like.

i have some time on the cutting machines next week, and may cut the black euro 808 panels then.

so, if anyone wanting them, and has not got their name on the list a few posts up, then speak now, or forever...


Oops... just noticed this... and that Im not on the list.
If its closed cool but if you have space... me please!


mOBiTh

my boards are basically stuffed - give me all of your panels hihi


julian

Im sorry for the lack of communication.

We've been moving house and things have slipped a bit.

The 808 panels are top of my list of things to do, but, right at the moment, the larger cutting machine is still in the transport trailer, as i dont currently have a way of lifting it!

This is only a small order, and, as soon as i can move the machine the last few feet (its come 250 miles so far!) i should be able to cut the metal.


rowman

got my PCB, thanks

and robot909, those pictures of the stuffed board are going to be helpful, thanks as well


robot909

No problem rowman, glad to help.

Wanted to post another photo of my progress of the build.

Temporarily wired up the pots, jacks and the led indicator.

All seems to work. The two "accent" connections on the pcs have been tricky but works once I tapped the +voltage from power into one of the accent connections (right above the "acc" silkscreen), it worked, but watch out for the other connection as it will short circuit when +v is applied.

Can we PLEASE see schematics for this PCB? it would be easier to troubleshoot.

... Next on the list is soldering up a permanent mount for the pcb and power connector, wiring and faceplate....




bananeurysm

Sweet robot909! Looks good!

Yeah my site was hacked by kids. I don't have time to restore it right now - but in the meantime here is my schematic for the board if it's useful.

And yeah - Strategy's show the other week was killer! 8_)


mOBiTh

cheers dude - much appreciated 8_)


[Djo]

Hi!
Is there any PCB left? I would like one!


robot909

Still working on my build, but today some robots showed up and started to munch on the wires... They know that the 808 BD make some real good high quality kick, and that BD is smoked and seasoned just the way they like it.

Almost there.





mOBiTh

Guys

In the middle of the pcb just to the right of the 0.1uF pair of caps are three resistors: 1x10k and 2x100k

The labelling is not completely obvious - is the 10k top left and 100ks to the right and bottom?

I haven't got them with me so can't check against the schem, but thought i'd ask while i think of it!

Cheers

Matt


robot909

Here is the body of the 808 kick drum module. Made from brass. The face is copper. Learned a lot on this build. Brass is great to work with. Initially I was inspired by the BERGFOTRON
http://hem.bredband.net/bersyn/mek.htm



Here is the finished module! Guinness ftw!




mOBiTh

heavy duty!


hexinverter

robot909 wrote:
Here is the body of the 808 kick drum module. Made from brass. The face is copper. Learned a lot on this build. Brass is great to work with. Initially I was inspired by the BERGFOTRON
http://hem.bredband.net/bersyn/mek.htm



Here is the finished module! Guinness ftw!



That is some beautiful work. Congrats!


robot909

razz Thank You!!!! razz


Barcode

I just finished put mine together and it sounds great! It's nice having an 808 kick for under $50.

Now I'm patiently waiting for a snare pcb. wink


RSB

I wouldnt put the Roland logo on it, i would use a proper 808 font if i where you.


X11

Thanks Jesse,

Nice deep purple pcbs will fit almost everywhere;)
even in my mailbox.

thumbs up


haricots

This would go great with hex's 909 kick! Are any boards left for sale?


hexinverter

haricots wrote:
This would go great with hex's 909 kick! Are any boards left for sale?


It most certainly would applause


spotta

haricots wrote:
Are any boards left for sale?


+1
I've had enough waiting for my mb-808


bananeurysm

I have another lot of pcbs on hand now - so no danger of running out anytime soon! Shoot me a pm or email if you want one!


ringstone

Are you still looking at doing some of the other 808 voices? This is a great little PCB, I'd certainly buy any others you do.

Cheers
Blair


asterisk

thanks, i just paid for 1 PCB.

can anyone share a good FPE file with me? id like to make a panel for this eventually.
thanks!


dadacore

Hi, do you still have some pcbs left?


astroschnautzer

I would like a pcb if you still got...


boothnavy

Anyone have a problem with low output volume? I built two identical ones and they both seem to have low output.


tony d

boothnavy wrote:
Anyone have a problem with low output volume? I built two identical ones and they both seem to have low output.


How low ? I've noticed the 2 i've built are a little lower than typical synth outputs.I usually have to put the gain on my mixer to unity to get it up to level with my synth.


boothnavy

tony d wrote:

How low ? I've noticed the 2 i've built are a little lower than typical synth outputs.I usually have to put the gain on my mixer to unity to get it up to level with my synth.


Yeh I guess that's about right. I was just using a guitar amp. Seemed lower than my modular.


asterisk

just paid for another PCB. thanks!


asterisk

ok, i just built up my first 808 PCB and im getting no sound out of it at all.
any advice where i should check first for troubleshooting?

looking at the pads on the PCBs for the pots, it should be 1 - 2 - 3 right?
and the jacks should be 1 - signal & 2 - ground?

i think i have those all wired correctly.
do i need to tie the accent to +12v? or can i just patch in an offset to it?

thanks for your help.


hexinverter

asterisk wrote:
ok, i just built up my first 808 PCB and im getting no sound out of it at all.
any advice where i should check first for troubleshooting?

looking at the pads on the PCBs for the pots, it should be 1 - 2 - 3 right?
and the jacks should be 1 - signal & 2 - ground?

i think i have those all wired correctly.
do i need to tie the accent to +12v? or can i just patch in an offset to it?

thanks for your help.


Whether or not the board was laid out to have accent tied to +V, I am not sure, but, you definitely want to add a 100k pullup resistor if there is not one smile

That way, when you WANT to control the accent signal (and some voltage source is plugged in), it will respond to it, otherwise, it will simply tie to +V and work without anything plugged in.

You could of course also plug a pot into it wired as a voltage divider, and just set it like that from the panel...but, then you don't have the option of adding variation during a pattern playing via CV smile

Sometimes it is useful to use a CV/Gate sequencer, and use the gate to drive the kick, while varying the accent control along the sequence (per note) with the CV.

I hope it was clear there in all of my babbling: There must be a +V accent signal for the drum to make any sound.


asterisk

ok so my problems arent just as simple as getting the accent straightened out.

as an experiment, i tied the accent input to +12v and removed the jack altogether and im still getting no sound.
so.....the whole accent thing is not the issue here.

any idea where to check the circuit next?

Dead Banana


Peake

Admit it: We all need two 808 kick drum voices so we can do double kick heavy metal techno.


hexinverter

asterisk wrote:
ok so my problems arent just as simple as getting the accent straightened out.

as an experiment, i tied the accent input to +12v and removed the jack altogether and im still getting no sound.
so.....the whole accent thing is not the issue here.

any idea where to check the circuit next?

Dead Banana


Sorry, I cannot help you troubleshoot specifically right now...not that I do not want to -- just, no time! :( Getting ready for a semester of school in 2 days...

I would take a look at the 808 schematic and use an oscilloscope and/or your ears to probe around for the various components of the kick sound.

The fact that there is no sound at all makes me think that maybe it's a problem near the final output. Check around the final output amplifier, and trace backwards until you find where the signal disappears. Check the VCA transistors that drive the sounds. If it is not your output amplifier screwing up, it sounds like the main volume envelope may not be reaching the VCA/s (therefore never really turning the sound on)

Check for reversed electrolytic caps, perhaps, as these form many of the basic envelope generators in these x0x drums smile

If that sort of thing is over your head at the moment, I would suggest printing out a component placement diagram with all of the resistor values, and comparing it to your board. Check, check and check again for shorts and/or poor/missed solder joints!

Sorry I cannot be of more help right now. Good luck! smile


stiebz

julian

hello Julian,

not sure if you will be making the 5U panels for the 808, if you do, I would like to buy one.
Thanks,
Steven


billieblaze

I'd love to get one of these 808 pcbs.. this is my first forum post, so now i can PM you..


lordofthebored

I Pm'ed earlier this week about purchasing one of these boards, please check your inbox soon! This is fun!


Luka

If you have no sound

Check the components around the opamp

I beleive the circuit is basically just a conditioned trigger with a simple resonant filter which is 'pinged'

Check pin 1 and pin 7 of the opamp To see the oscilator - if it is present there check the output circuitry


Luka

I noticed that this module has the decay mod inbuilt - i applied this mod on my mb808 bd and i am gettng weird behaviour. I was wondering if anyone who has built ths module could help me by checking whether the decay settings post 12oclock are usable?

I just get oscilllation - doesnt sound good and the drum sounds are phasing up and down in volume.


asterisk

ill check the stuff around the opamp first. thats a good idea.

maybe i just have a bad opamp in there.

hopefully i will get a chance to troubleshoot it tonight....


Luka

i was digging a little about the phase issue and seems like it is normal - i might remove this mod

for those interested in how the circuit works (troubleshooting maybe) check these links

(robbin whittle -aka devilfish talking circuits and the phasing issue)
http://analogue-heaven.1065350.n5.nabble.com/TR-808-Bass-Drum-has-vari able-punch-amp-decay-td68912.html

(sound on sound - synth secrets)
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/feb02/articles/synthsecrets0202.asp


ringstone

Luka wrote:
i was digging a little about the phase issue and seems like it is normal - i might remove this mod

for those interested in how the circuit works (troubleshooting maybe) check these links

(robbin whittle -aka devilfish talking circuits and the phasing issue)
http://analogue-heaven.1065350.n5.nabble.com/TR-808-Bass-Drum-has-vari able-punch-amp-decay-td68912.html

(sound on sound - synth secrets)
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/feb02/articles/synthsecrets0202.asp


Yes, I noticed this when trying various mods with the 808 BD circuit. First, the tolerance is fairly fine in the feedback circuit, so if you want to extend decay, the values have to be tuned fairly carefully otherwise the circuit starts self-oscillating. And when the decay is extended, the behavior of the sound is somewhat erratic when another trigger is received when the sound is still decaying. This can even be heard to some extent on a stock TR-808 with max decay at faster tempos.

I used a switch so that "normal" or "extended" decay could be selected. Extended decay is still more than usable at slower tempos where the BD can decay fully before the next trigger is received - and normal mode gives more range for BD sounds with shorter decays.

Cheers
Blair


Luka

Cool thanks for backing that up blair

I think ill try keep the mod in but refine it a little - select a resistor value which adds a tad extra decay - just enough for decent booms at low tempo


fdre3wsd

I'm going to pm and inquire if these are on hand, I can't resist


whitewulfe

Hmmm, an 808 kick PCB could be interesting to get one's hands on... Wonder if any are still available ^_^


hexinverter

whitewulfe wrote:
Hmmm, an 808 kick PCB could be interesting to get one's hands on... Wonder if any are still available ^_^


I do believe he still has some...he's just not answering his PMs! haha!

I'm still waiting to trade PCBs with him MY ASS IS BLEEDING


whitewulfe

hexinverter wrote:
I do believe he still has some...he's just not answering his PMs! haha!

I'm still waiting to trade PCBs with him MY ASS IS BLEEDING


Hmmm, we'll see. Gotta wait until next payday first, which thankfully is in a few days ^_^


asterisk

i just got another 808 BD PCB from jesse.
send him some money and one will show up. haha!

he doesnt seem to post around here or answer any PMs ever. we are on our own. im still trying to get my first one to work.
but i figured ill build a second and if that works then itll be easy to troubleshoot the first one.....

cant wait to get this and hex's 909 working together!


bananeurysm

Hey guys - sorry I've been so silent around here - it's been a crazy month. I am generally a little quick via jmejia (at) anestheticaudio [dot] com, but I do answer pm's.

If you're waiting for a board or a message back from me - drop me a line and I'll make sure you weren't lost in the shuffle - but I think I'm all up to date now!

I still have boards and am happy to ship em.

Apart from this last month - I can usually get the the post office once a week/week.5 to ship.

And I do try to chime in on troubleshoots in the thread when I can! Asterisk did you get your board working? Often total non-working boards just have issues with the power wiring - I know that's a simple/dumb answer - but always good to doublecheck you have your batteries in series correctly or what have you!

And Hexinverter - the boards aren't modified for tying the accent - I've just been tying them anyway and losing the accent jack in the process for those type of applications - but you could certainly mod differently!


asterisk

I haven't gotten my first one working yet. maybe it's power.
I need to get out the multimeter and check the power. it could be the IC.
if you tie the accent, you just run a jumper wire from +V to the accent input?
and do you have to wire anything into the accent ground pad?

it's possible that my pots might be wired backwards too, would that cause it not to work?

ok hopefully I can get one or both working soon.
I'm planning on making a dual 808 panel for eurorack. I'll share the FPD file here once I get things working and I'm ready to order my panel.


hexinverter

asterisk wrote:
I haven't gotten my first one working yet. maybe it's power.
I need to get out the multimeter and check the power. it could be the IC.
if you tie the accent, you just run a jumper wire from +V to the accent input?
and do you have to wire anything into the accent ground pad?

it's possible that my pots might be wired backwards too, would that cause it not to work?

ok hopefully I can get one or both working soon.
I'm planning on making a dual 808 panel for eurorack. I'll share the FPD file here once I get things working and I'm ready to order my panel.


If you want to be able to use the accent input as an analogue CV input (of which alters the bass drum's level and punch), and you want it to work even if something is not currently plugged in, you will have to tie it to +V through a 100k resistor. So, run a 100k resistor to +V from the accent input pad.

There must be a positive voltage present on the accent input for the 808 to make any sound. Adding this resistor to +V will pull the input up to +V whenever a lower impedance analogue signal is not plugged into the jack, so you know your drum should make sound at all times then.

It should make sound regardless of the pots being wired backwards. The controls would just work backwards methinks smile

That brings me to my next question for bananeurysm:


bananeurysm wrote:
And Hexinverter - the boards aren't modified for tying the accent - I've just been tying them anyway and losing the accent jack in the process for those type of applications - but you could certainly mod differently!


Okay, cool smile

So, that begs the question -- have you added a gate->trigger/input conditioning circuit on the PCB, or is it just straight off of the 808 schematic without any modularizing of the control input?

The original x0x machines weren't designed for use in a modular synthesizer. It's a really good idea to add an opamp gate->trigger converter which cleans up signals so you can basically use any voltage signal to trigger the drum, and also provides a high impedance, buffered input for the module. That would be a really nice addition for a board revision if you have not added one on this PCB This is fun!


asterisk

hey hex,
do you think the CGS gate->trig PCB would work for the 808 PCB?
let me know. i have a couple of those.

the schematic for the 808 PCB is up on jesse's website.

im adding it here:
[/img]


hexinverter

asterisk wrote:
hey hex,
do you think the CGS gate->trig PCB would work for the 808 PCB?
let me know. i have a couple of those.

the schematic for the 808 PCB is up on jesse's website.

im adding it here:
[/img]


Hmm, it's actually already got a gate->trig on it by the looks of it smile Good stuff.

D3, C1 and R26 form a gate->trig converter, basically.

I'm unfamiliar with the Roland design, so it may be that it was stock...or he added it in smile

There is a transistor buffer there already if he did add it, so the opamp is a bit redundant anyway in my suggestion.


asterisk

ok good to know that it should trigger properly with modular stuff.

i just need some dang 22k resistors and i can finish building my other PCB. im anxious to get this thing working.


tibbon

I'd love to get one of these- are they still available?


roglok

I just finished an 808 BD using this PCB layout:
http://xlargex.xl.funpic.de/projects/808/docs/808bdV1.0.pdf

I'm running it off 12V and tried several values for the pulse conditioner cap (C1 in bananeurysm's layout) and found that 33nF works much better than 100nF. With 100nF the pulse is too wide and makes the Attack click sound weird. It's also appears too loud. With 1nF the circuit sometimes fails to make a sound when sending rapid triggers.

Both 33nF and 47nF yielded much better results - I ultimately settled on 33nF because I liked the click sound a little better than with 47nF...

YMMV but I think it's worth trying different values there... Especially if your BD sound doesn't feel spot on...


hexinverter

roglok wrote:
I just finished an 808 BD using this PCB layout:
http://xlargex.xl.funpic.de/projects/808/docs/808bdV1.0.pdf

I'm running it off 12V and tried several values for the pulse conditioner cap (C1 in bananeurysm's layout) and found that 33nF works much better than 100nF. With 100nF the pulse is too wide and makes the Attack click sound weird. It's also appears too loud. With 1nF the circuit sometimes fails to make a sound when sending rapid triggers.

Both 33nF and 47nF yielded much better results - I ultimately settled on 33nF because I liked the click sound a little better than with 47nF...

YMMV but I think it's worth trying different values there... Especially if your BD sound doesn't feel spot on...


This is a good bit of information! Thanks for bringing it up Roglok! thumbs up

The drum circuit was designed around a very specific trigger pulse-width in the x0x machines, so, yes, you are going to want to play with values for that capacitor if you're seeking an absolutely perfect replica, as, the length of the pulse actually determines the "on" time of the oscillators before the decay/etc cycles start.

This is true for the 909 as well...which makes me think I might want to experiment with some different values in my 909 kick project This is fun!


bananeurysm

Yeah I used a modified trigger circuit based on something I got from Eric Archer's website. I've had success triggering it with a variety of sources, roland drum trigger outs, cmos square waves, loud audio transients, and modular square waves. for modular triggering - you have to play with pulse width a little bit - but you can dial it in.

Asterisk - I don't think you need to ground the accent jack - just wire your positive voltage to it. Are you powering the boards with batteries? Or a bipolar power supply? What are you triggering with?

Like hex said - backwards pots won't give you no sound... but make sure you try all the pots in a variety of positions - if they're backwards you might have the volume turned all the way down or something. Also play with the decay pot - play with all the pots. (But you probably have already...)


boothnavy

Here is my MOTM version, after the venerable design of the OG 8_)






haricots

There are a couple components in the Mouser BOM that are not available anymore. I'm horrible at picking new parts.

I need replacement parts for these two:

1) http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CCF07220RGKR36virtual key61300000virtualkey71-CCF07-G-220

2) http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=K104M20X7RH53L2virtua lkey59420000virtualkey594-K104M20X7RH53L2

Pretty please anyone?


hexinverter

haricots wrote:
There are a couple components in the Mouser BOM that are not available anymore. I'm horrible at picking new parts.

I need replacement parts for these two:

1) http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CCF07220RGKR36virtual key61300000virtualkey71-CCF07-G-220

2) http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=K104M20X7RH53L2virtua lkey59420000virtualkey594-K104M20X7RH53L2

Pretty please anyone?


Here ya go smile

1: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4DCT52R2200F/?qs=sGAE piMZZMu61qfTUdNhG%2fDQawzJ6c7Pvwf5CGzltL8%3d

2: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104K15X7RF53L 2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZBsO5XL1av8%2fgVbH%252blMj84U%3d


hexinverter

boothnavy wrote:
Here is my MOTM version, after the venerable design of the OG 8_)


Hot woah


bananeurysm

boothnavy wrote:
Hre is my MOTM version, after the venerable design of the OG 8_)


nice panel!!


asterisk

im running mine off doepfer +/- 12v supply.

so can i just run a +12v to the switch lug of my accent jack.
that way its +12v until i plug something into the jack?

i did play around with the pots in all positions and i still got no sound.

i should be able to finish my 2nd PCB later this week. hopefully i can get that one working.

im working on a dual 808 BD euro FPE panel. ill post it here once i get things working out.


bananeurysm wrote:
Yeah I used a modified trigger circuit based on something I got from Eric Archer's website. I've had success triggering it with a variety of sources, roland drum trigger outs, cmos square waves, loud audio transients, and modular square waves. for modular triggering - you have to play with pulse width a little bit - but you can dial it in.

Asterisk - I don't think you need to ground the accent jack - just wire your positive voltage to it. Are you powering the boards with batteries? Or a bipolar power supply? What are you triggering with?

Like hex said - backwards pots won't give you no sound... but make sure you try all the pots in a variety of positions - if they're backwards you might have the volume turned all the way down or something. Also play with the decay pot - play with all the pots. (But you probably have already...)



bananeurysm

asterisk wrote:
im running mine off doepfer +/- 12v supply.

so can i just run a +12v to the switch lug of my accent jack.
that way its +12v until i plug something into the jack?


That should work - though plugging in a jack won't override the voltage you have on there. If you tie it high like that - plan on discarding the jack.. or adding a switch.

You have +12 hooked up to the pad with a silkscreened + right? The leftmost pad on the power header? I know there is also a + on the right most pad - though it's harder to make out. I hope there is no mixup there.

Other than that I'm not sure - obvs double check all your polarized cap directions, and transistors. Measure voltage at the chip and make sure that all looks right. Trouble shooting is a pita!


roglok

Quote:
That should work - though plugging in a jack won't override the voltage you have on there. If you tie it high like that - plan on discarding the jack.. or adding a switch.


wouldn't it make most sense to add a small DC mixer a la CGS24, add a voltage divider pot for the internal accent voltage and mix that with the external accent voltage?


asterisk

i just checked my PCB.
im getting +12 at the accent pad.

i have the power hooked up correctly. +/- 12v show up there on the correct pads. -V is the square pad correct?

im getting +/- 12v on the proper pins of the IC. voltage there is good.
(and swapping the 072 didnt help either)

my caps are oriented right. my transistors are oriented correctly based on the PCB. im using regular BC556 and BC546A. im not using variations on those.

for those of you that are using the 808 PCB in eurorack land, what kind of trigger are you sending it? ive tried using Maths and other square wave / PWM sources and none of them work.

my soldering job looks good to me too.

what else should i check?

bananeurysm wrote:
asterisk wrote:
im running mine off doepfer +/- 12v supply.

so can i just run a +12v to the switch lug of my accent jack.
that way its +12v until i plug something into the jack?


That should work - though plugging in a jack won't override the voltage you have on there. If you tie it high like that - plan on discarding the jack.. or adding a switch.

You have +12 hooked up to the pad with a silkscreened + right? The leftmost pad on the power header? I know there is also a + on the right most pad - though it's harder to make out. I hope there is no mixup there.

Other than that I'm not sure - obvs double check all your polarized cap directions, and transistors. Measure voltage at the chip and make sure that all looks right. Trouble shooting is a pita!



bananeurysm

asterisk wrote:
i just checked my PCB.
im getting +12 at the accent pad.

i have the power hooked up correctly. +/- 12v show up there on the correct pads. -V is the square pad correct?

im getting +/- 12v on the proper pins of the IC. voltage there is good.
(and swapping the 072 didnt help either)

my caps are oriented right. my transistors are oriented correctly based on the PCB. im using regular BC556 and BC546A. im not using variations on those.

for those of you that are using the 808 PCB in eurorack land, what kind of trigger are you sending it? ive tried using Maths and other square wave / PWM sources and none of them work.

my soldering job looks good to me too.

what else should i check?


Hmm that all sounds good and right to me... I'm assuming you did some playing around with pulse width on your triggers.

While powering mine from 2 9v batteries, I was able to trigger it by touching the positive leg to the trigger pad as well... seems like that would also work with 12V? Bummer it's not working! Have you heard any sound from it at all? It's at least passing the click/accent through I'm assuming?

I'm not sure what to check next.. REAL troubleshooting (like with a scope and stuff) isn't really my forte...


bananeurysm

roglok wrote:
wouldn't it make most sense to add a small DC mixer a la CGS24, add a voltage divider pot for the internal accent voltage and mix that with the external accent voltage?


Sure you could probably do that. My intention was to offer the 808 kick basically as is without much modification. There is certainly room for improvements and mods! Voltage control, trigger piezos, switchable decay lengths, an LED, etc etc...


asterisk

im not getting any sound from mine. not even the click.
i did play around with pulsewidth a little bit.

do you know what the voltage threshold is for triggering it?
i think most eurorack sources are around +5v right?


tony d

asterisk wrote:

for those of you that are using the 808 PCB in eurorack land, what kind of trigger are you sending it? ive tried using Maths and other square wave / PWM sources and none of them work.


You should be able to trigger from maths envelope out but i'm not sure about the eoc out. I can also trigger it from 4ms clock divider, and the machinedrum imp machine triggers.


dadacore

got mine built and working yesterday on +/-12v
I wired up an adjustable (with a trimmer) voltage divider to the norm pin of the accent jack, so if there is no accent present you can choose how much voltage to apply, up to +12v.
I don't have my soundcard with me to measure it but the output seems pretty low
i used BC546b all with the same HFE, but higher than the bc546A (the ones in the layout) could it be the issue with the low volume?
again, is the trigger voltage directly related to the amplitude?


asterisk

so i built up another one today and i have the exact same problem.
no sound at all! i wonder what i am doing wrong.
maybe i have some bad components or something?

anyone have any ideas about how to troubleshoot these any further?
this is getting frustrating, ive checked and rechecked everything so many times, i really dont know whats going wrong.

Dead Banana Dead Banana


The Big Ear

I have my 808 kick's done.
They sound awesome together with the MPS's nanners

Here some quick pic's:




More pics here:
http://modular.thebigear.be/#15.0

Cheers,
ToAd


hexinverter

dadacore wrote:
got mine built and working yesterday on +/-12v
I wired up an adjustable (with a trimmer) voltage divider to the norm pin of the accent jack, so if there is no accent present you can choose how much voltage to apply, up to +12v.
I don't have my soundcard with me to measure it but the output seems pretty low
i used BC546b all with the same HFE, but higher than the bc546A (the ones in the layout) could it be the issue with the low volume?
again, is the trigger voltage directly related to the amplitude?


It is probably because you are running it on 12V instead of 15V. If it is anything like the 909 kick, I'm sure there are a bunch of voltage dividers and stuff referenced to the supply rail in the circuit. The signal levels all throughout the circuit are going to be affected by the fact that the supply rail is 3V lower. Fixing this isn't very easy. You can amplify it at the end but you'll have more noise than you're supposed to, as I'm sure Roland designed the signal-to-noise ratio to be optimal at 15V.

In short: if you want a perfect signal amplitude, run it on 15V, unless banana wants to do the analysis and convert everything over of course. This is fun!


bananeurysm

hmm. i haven't done any measurements.. but I run my with 2 9v batteries - and it seems loud. Certainly louder (better s/n) than my 606 - and I thought on par with my actual 808.

I'll try and do some actual output measurements when I get some time - but I'm afraid I may not be prompt with that! (Anyone else running on lower voltage wanna drop a measurement out there?)


emdot_ambient

bananeurysm wrote:
hmm. i haven't done any measurements.. but I run my with 2 9v batteries

In series or parallel? Mr. Green


EMwhite

Got mine running off my +15/-15 MU rack power. Had a ton of trouble getting the accent issue resolved primarily because the wire I was using was too thick to sit nicely in the MTA header. I hate that damn insertion tool, nearly lose my fingers each time.

Could somebody draw out for me, or explain in 'leg bone connected to the knee bone..." how to work out the pullup resistor bit.

I understand the concept in general and found a bunch of resources; just want somebody to tell me how to wire it optimally or to answer question a) below:

a) if accent is relatively low (I saw 4..14V somewhere), will the tone of the circuit be effected at all or is it purely the base/offset volume that is altered?

b) in either case, I would like to have a base voltage always present, then have the option of adding a 1/4" jack which can be 0..5V to meet the max loudness. For those of you that know the full range of amplitude, if a 9V..14V is not that big of a swing, any way to multiply the voltage * 2 so I have a base voltage of 4V, then for each volt coming into the 1/4" jack, double it.

You guys do this in your sleep so could a kind soul draw something up?

Otherwise, thanks to Bananeurism or however you spell it; very tight working conditions but definitely satisfying and no issues once I got the pot polarity set right.

For those still getting theirs working, I'm not sure that the statement "you don't need pots connected for it to work" is accurate. Certainly I also ended up with the droning BooM! of a kick that never decayed. Possibly I touched the bottom or something to do with floating voltage/ground on the pins not connected. Little did I know (above) that the connector I had on the accent header wasn't making sufficient contact.


elmegil

I don't know from "in my sleep" but I spent some time looking at this, playing with various variations, so I have a couple things to say about it...

First: I wasn't using banana's PCB, I was using a stripboard layout from over at Electro-Music. The 4 - 14V comes from the original schematic, basically what the original circuit did was 1) gate the various voices (this is the input that Eric's circuit has put the trigger conditioner in front of) and 2) generate a constant trigger pulse into the "Accent" input of each voice. The trigger pulse would vary from 4 - 14 V depending on whether or not the accent was gated on that step, and what the accent pot level was set to.

For my own purposes I reproduced this scheme with an Arduino, and it works pretty well. And while I say "gate" the voice, I really am sending a pulse to the voice that is a tiny bit wider than the accent/common trigger pulse. Doing it this way, by the way, does not work well with Eric's trigger conditioner in front of it.

If you want to do like Eric says he did, and just use the accent as a sort of volume control (not gated by the accent "voice), you could hook up in series as follows: +15V, 10K resistor, 100K pot, 40K resistor (39K realistically), ground. That will get you a 4V -> 14V swing on the wiper of the 100k pot, which you can hook to the accent input.

As far as I've noticed, the accent doesn't especially effect the tone, but then again I'm working from a different board, so YMMV.


bananeurysm

emdot_ambient wrote:
bananeurysm wrote:
hmm. i haven't done any measurements.. but I run my with 2 9v batteries

In series or parallel? Mr. Green


Not sure if that was a sarcastic smiley..? You gotta run em in series! (Ah so I guess that makes it +/- 18v? someone who knows more than me should speak up!)


hexinverter

bananeurysm wrote:
emdot_ambient wrote:
bananeurysm wrote:
hmm. i haven't done any measurements.. but I run my with 2 9v batteries

In series or parallel? Mr. Green


Not sure if that was a sarcastic smiley..? You gotta run em in series! (Ah so I guess that makes it +/- 18v? someone who knows more than me should speak up!)


I think he's just trollin' ya. Measuring from +V to -V would give you 18V total, but no, it is +/-9V when you wire two 9V batteries in series This is fun!


bananeurysm

elmegil wrote:
Doing it this way, by the way, does not work well with Eric's trigger conditioner in front of it.


Just for the record - again, for anyone experimenting with this stuff - I did implement Eric Archer's trigger conditioner on my boards.


boothnavy

I offered this kit to another wiggler. If you are interested in a similar one, or one in MU, PM me.




emdot_ambient

hexinverter wrote:
bananeurysm wrote:
emdot_ambient wrote:
bananeurysm wrote:
hmm. i haven't done any measurements.. but I run my with 2 9v batteries

In series or parallel? Mr. Green

Not sure if that was a sarcastic smiley..? You gotta run em in series! (Ah so I guess that makes it +/- 18v? someone who knows more than me should speak up!)

I think he's just trollin' ya.

Guilty as charged. oops


Luka

hexinverter wrote:
dadacore wrote:
got mine built and working yesterday on +/-12v
I wired up an adjustable (with a trimmer) voltage divider to the norm pin of the accent jack, so if there is no accent present you can choose how much voltage to apply, up to +12v.
I don't have my soundcard with me to measure it but the output seems pretty low
i used BC546b all with the same HFE, but higher than the bc546A (the ones in the layout) could it be the issue with the low volume?
again, is the trigger voltage directly related to the amplitude?


It is probably because you are running it on 12V instead of 15V. If it is anything like the 909 kick, I'm sure there are a bunch of voltage dividers and stuff referenced to the supply rail in the circuit. The signal levels all throughout the circuit are going to be affected by the fact that the supply rail is 3V lower. Fixing this isn't very easy. You can amplify it at the end but you'll have more noise than you're supposed to, as I'm sure Roland designed the signal-to-noise ratio to be optimal at 15V.

In short: if you want a perfect signal amplitude, run it on 15V, unless banana wants to do the analysis and convert everything over of course. This is fun!


I was doing some checks of my mb808 next to a tr808 today. I found the mb808 kick envleope was a little off - decay was similar in length but sounded less full bodied as the tr808 kick.

I switched the psu from my bench supply to the onboard and the kick was thick and full. Both psu run 15v. Bench is 1amp wallwort half wave rectified 7815 7915 psu - onboard psu 7815,7915 with toroid 1.5amp.

I think the mb808 was starved on the bench supply - actually i know it was as the cpu would reset occasionally when i used certain drum sounds.

Not sure i can explain this further but thought it might be interesting for some


bananeurysm

asterisk wrote:
so i built up another one today and i have the exact same problem.
no sound at all! i wonder what i am doing wrong.
maybe i have some bad components or something?

anyone have any ideas about how to troubleshoot these any further?
this is getting frustrating, ive checked and rechecked everything so many times, i really dont know whats going wrong.

Dead Banana Dead Banana


Still no luck over there? Not getting a 'click' at all is very strange. The click is really just passing through the trigger. Maybe attach a photo that shows your wiring detail for pots, jacks and power?


logicgate

I want to buy a euro panel for this PCB, has anyone got anything left??

cheers Guinness ftw!


asterisk

yep ive got 2 that arent working still.
no click or nothing. argh!

ill try to post some photos soon, maybe you guys can help after looking at that.



bananeurysm wrote:
asterisk wrote:
so i built up another one today and i have the exact same problem.
no sound at all! i wonder what i am doing wrong.
maybe i have some bad components or something?

anyone have any ideas about how to troubleshoot these any further?
this is getting frustrating, ive checked and rechecked everything so many times, i really dont know whats going wrong.

Dead Banana Dead Banana


Still no luck over there? Not getting a 'click' at all is very strange. The click is really just passing through the trigger. Maybe attach a photo that shows your wiring detail for pots, jacks and power?



Barcode

logicgate wrote:
I want to buy a euro panel for this PCB, has anyone got anything left??

cheers Guinness ftw!


Will be doing an acrylic panel next week.... My current design is going to be 6HP. It will have holes for all 4 pots and 3 for the trig / acc / out.

Here's the color.....


The price should be around $15 including shipping. Heck if anyone else is interested let me know. I will post the design tonight.


logicgate

Barcode wrote:
logicgate wrote:
I want to buy a euro panel for this PCB, has anyone got anything left??

cheers Guinness ftw!


Will be doing an acrylic panel next week.... My current design is going to be 6HP. It will have holes for all 4 pots and 3 for the trig / acc / out.

Here's the color.....


The price should be around $15 including shipping. Heck if anyone else is interested let me know. I will post the design tonight.


Excellent!

1 for me, please.


Barcode

This should give you the basic idea of the layout / fonts on the panel..... I have the knobs spaced for Davies 1900's.




demian

Barcode wrote:
This should give you the basic idea of the layout / fonts on the panel..... I have the knobs spaced for Davies 1900's.


I am interested in 2 panels.


logicgate

Looking good!

But you've mentioned on the previous post that it would have 3 jacks?? (acc, trigger and out) hmmm.....


astroschnautzer

one euro 4 mee


Barcode

logicgate wrote:
Looking good!

But you've mentioned on the previous post that it would have 3 jacks?? (acc, trigger and out) hmmm.....


I have 2 versions on with 2 and one with 3. I'll post the triple jack version when I get home tonight. Mr. Green


Barcode

Hey folks, I started an ordering thread for these panels....

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=981168


asterisk

ok, so i got both of my 808BD pcbs working finally!

check this out, i got a bag of what i thought were 100k resistors from mouser and it turned out they were all 100R resistors!

EPIC FAIL! haha

so mine are working now, but ive also noticed that the output on them is quite low, i have to crank my output mixer quite high compared to other signals on my modular.

anyone figure out a way to make this thing louder yet?

also i still feel like i dont have a clear understanding of the accent jack yet, can i run +12v to the switching lug of the accent jack so that its tied high until i plug something into the jack? do i need a resistor in series with the +12v and switching lug so i dont get a momentary +12v going into my inserted patch cord?

so nice to have these working now. im working on a dual panel in FPE, ill post it soon.


Barcode

asterisk wrote:

also i still feel like i dont have a clear understanding of the accent jack yet, can i run +12v to the switching lug of the accent jack so that its tied high until i plug something into the jack?


I have the trigger tip running to the switching lug on the accent jack and it works really well. I found that running +12v into the accent made the overall sound a bit muddy. I really enjoy the sound of a +5v trigger running the trigger and accent.


asterisk

thanks, ok that sounds good. ill give that a try.
did you find the output was louder when you tied the trigger to the switching lug on the accent jack?


Barcode

asterisk wrote:

did you find the output was louder when you tied the trigger to the switching lug on the accent jack?


I didn't notice any different between the 2.


logicgate

I was checking the mouser BOM, and I have a question:

those "audio" potentiometers are log??

So I need a 10K and 100K log pots??


Cheers!


Barcode

Correct. You need....

100k Audio (A)
10k Audio (A)
100k Linear (B)
500k Linear (B)


toby

hi, im in the uk, can you ship one to me here? how much? thanks


Barcode

toby wrote:
hi, im in the uk, can you ship one to me here? how much? thanks


If you asking about the panel I am offering.... Yes!

Panel = $10.00 each
International Shipping = $5.00


toby

sorry, i wasnt being very clear.
id like to order the 808 kick pcb and the front panel.
are you still selling those?

thanks
tob
y


whitewulfe

toby wrote:
sorry, i wasnt being very clear.
id like to order the 808 kick pcb and the front panel.
are you still selling those?

thanks
tob
y


Probably get the quickest reply by giving bananeurysm a PM as he's only around every few days. SlayerBadger!


toby

sorry, ive woken up now, you dont sell the pcbs.


bananeurysm

asterisk wrote:
ok, so i got both of my 808BD pcbs working finally!

check this out, i got a bag of what i thought were 100k resistors from mouser and it turned out they were all 100R resistors!

EPIC FAIL! haha

so mine are working now, but ive also noticed that the output on them is quite low, i have to crank my output mixer quite high compared to other signals on my modular.

anyone figure out a way to make this thing louder yet?

also i still feel like i dont have a clear understanding of the accent jack yet, can i run +12v to the switching lug of the accent jack so that its tied high until i plug something into the jack? do i need a resistor in series with the +12v and switching lug so i dont get a momentary +12v going into my inserted patch cord?

so nice to have these working now. im working on a dual panel in FPE, ill post it soon.


Sweet! Glad it's workin! I always run mine off 2 9v's and it has always seemed loud to me - but I haven't done any real tests. I should...

I typically keep my +9v power leg tied to the tip of the accent jack. I leave the ground alone, and I don't use a resistor. I don't know why you would insert a patch cord in this scenario. If you want CV controlled accent/volume - just leave it disconnected from power and connect a CV line from your modular to it. If you want both options - try a switch - I know a few folks who have done that and had success with it.


bananeurysm

FYI if anyone prefers ordering through a website - I'm setup now on Tindie: https://tindie.com/jmej/808-kick-drum-clone-pcb/

I'm charging a little bit for S+H on tindie - basically to recoup the 5% tindie takes off the top. smile


asterisk

i got my 808 PCB working great now.

i went with the 47k resistor for the decay, seems more natural to me. the 42.2k decay was too long and not useful for me.

also, for those building this for +/- 12v / eurorack, i highly recommend doing this (which someone else mentioned earlier in the thread):
wire up your trigger input jack to the switching lug on your accent jack. i found that the 808 was louder and punchier doing it this way rather than tying the accent jack directly to +12v. also this way, you can still utilize the accent jack if you want to, but if you dont use it, its tied directly to your trigger input. (my kick is nice and punchy and loud using an exp MATHS trigger)

i just ordered my own dual panel for it too, should have that soon.
ill post pics and sounds when i got everything set up.

thanks to jesse and everyone else for their help and advice on this.


danny29

Hi there,

I got 2 PCBs but I have the same problem on both (very low output, huge amount of noise and the the trigger's click very high)

Here's a sample I recorded: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/28419373/808bd.wav

I'm triggering them with a 606 and I'm on +/- 12V

I double checked resistor values and caps orientation... and I also changed the opamp

do you have any idea on what could be wrong?

Thanks
d


X11

hi danny i left out the 10k resister in the upper left corner makes the trigger click much better.
in ur sample i dont hear a kick at all:P are your transistors correct?
if you used original transistors the legs should be swapped.
maybe u had a bad batch of transistors make a socket and try stuff out.
tie a voltage to the accent in for sound etc.
good luck
smile


bananeurysm

Hey Danny - did you tie the accent high? If you aren't giving it enough accent voltage it would case the output to be very low. The trigger would still come in just as clear - so that could be it. Double check all that!

You might also try a few different trigger sources.. a friend of mine (strategy) has a 606 that seems to have a trigger output that is lower than normal. (Though I've triggered with my 606 just fine)


asterisk

danny, if you are doing eurorack and you are using switching jacks.

i recommend connecting the trigger input to the switching lug on the accent jack. (that way the trigger you send in will control the accent level and you can still use the accent jack if you want to) this made a big difference for me and made my 808s sound plenty loud. i didnt have as much success when i just tied the accent directly to +12v.

im getting a really nice kick 808 sound when i trigger my modules with a sharp MATHs envelope.

ill post a demo and some pics one of these days. its a great little module / circuit once you can getting working properly.


asterisk

i had one mod question:

how do you extend the upper frequency range of the 808 BD?
id like mine to go up a fair bit higher than it does.
the lower end of the range is fine with me.

thanks!


Barcode

asterisk wrote:
danny, if you are doing eurorack and you are using switching jacks.

i recommend connecting the trigger input to the switching lug on the accent jack. (that way the trigger you send in will control the accent level and you can still use the accent jack if you want to) this made a big difference for me and made my 808s sound plenty loud. i didnt have as much success when i just tied the accent directly to +12v.

im getting a really nice kick 808 sound when i trigger my modules with a sharp MATHs envelope.

ill post a demo and some pics one of these days. its a great little module / circuit once you can getting working properly.


Make sure you use a diode to connect the Trigger lug to the Accent switching lug (black line on the accent side).


asterisk

oh, i didnt do this! is this to prevent negative voltages from hitting the accent input?

1N4148 diode be suitable for that?

thanks for the tip. ill have to rewire mine later.


logicgate

Hey guys!

I wanted to know:



Cheers! Guinness ftw!


Barcode

47uf Electro Caps.


clorax hurd

just finished mine. works fine. volume is ok.
experimented a bit with the "decay" resistor, but ended up around the suggested 42,2k anyway (not exactly / used 47k and 470k in parallel so i got 42.7)

also experimented with the accent thing. tried connecting the trigger to accent (through diode) as suggested in here, but i didn't like to have transient so loud and so clicky. prefered the sound of +12v connected to switching lug of accent jack.
btw, is that ok that way? or is it better to add the 100k resistor (as mentioned by hexinvented below), even if I have don't have +12v connected to accent jack regulary, but to its switching lug?

hexinverter wrote:

If you want to be able to use the accent input as an analogue CV input (of which alters the bass drum's level and punch), and you want it to work even if something is not currently plugged in, you will have to tie it to +V through a 100k resistor. So, run a 100k resistor to +V from the accent input pad.



Votek_Mendo

IS it still possible to order?


falafelbiels

Votek_Mendo

I did so last week, via PM...


EMwhite

Question for Hex or whomever cares to answer this:

So 100k from V+ to Accent normally, then it's broken if a jack is inserted? If that's the case, won't the +5 CV be rather low from an accent perspective or are you suggesting that voltage is additive, and whatever source - 100K resistance is + 5V will be max?

(btw: I'm @ 15V dotcom format) but thanks in advance for some clarity.


hexinverter

EMwhite wrote:
Question for Hex or whomever cares to answer this:

So 100k from V+ to Accent normally, then it's broken if a jack is inserted? If that's the case, won't the +5 CV be rather low from an accent perspective or are you suggesting that voltage is additive, and whatever source - 100K resistance is + 5V will be max?

(btw: I'm @ 15V dotcom format) but thanks in advance for some clarity.


Ahh, perhaps this will help you understand -- just some basic theory.

Electricity likes to flow in the path of least resistance. In other words, when you put a 100k ohm resistance to +V, it is called a "pull up" resistor because it means when nothing else is connected, current will flow from there into the accent input. If you plug something else into the jack that has a lower than 100k impedance (resistance), such as an analogue CV signal for accent, current will instead flow from the accent CV you have plugged in because it is a lower resistance path than the 100k resistor tied to +V.

That was a greatly simplified explanation, but is the way that I think of it in order to understand it. Just always keep it in your head that "current flows in the path of least resistance" and it should help it stay clear smile

Did that answer your question? This is fun!


clorax hurd

hexinverter wrote:
when you put a 100k ohm resistance to +V, it is called a "pull up" resistor because it means when nothing else is connected, current will flow from there into the accent input. If you plug something else into the jack that has a lower than 100k impedance (resistance), such as an analogue CV signal for accent, current will instead flow from the accent CV you have plugged in because it is a lower resistance path than the 100k resistor tied to +V.


So this 100k resistor thing is what you have to do when you use banana sockets, but with jack sockets you can just use the "switching" pin as well, without any resistor. is that correct?


ringstone

Built these up this week, working well. From comparing the circuit with the original I determined the two "5.9k" resistors were originally 6.8k. Also, I varied the potentiometer values a bit:

Volume - during testing I changed this to 100kA (log) instead of 100kB (linear). The original schematic doesn't seem to indicate a value, but I felt using an audio (log) taper allowed a smoother fade. (Actually in the end I had to use a 9mm pot, and only had 50kA on hand, and that worked fine too).

Freq - changed to 100kB (linear) instead of 100kA (log) - just seemed to range a little better.

Tone - in the original, this was a 10kC (Anti-log). 10kA (log) was specified, which is probably less suited than linear. I actually used a 10kB (linear) with a 2k resistor between pins 2 and 3 (wiper, CW) to vary the taper a bit. Pins 1 (CCW) and 2 (wiper) I wired to pins 2 and 3 on the PCB. The resulting range seemed to match the actual 808 pretty well. If you want to try this, I think a 2k2 resistor would be close enough.

Cheers
Blair


logicgate

ringstone wrote:
Built these up this week, working well. From comparing the circuit with the original I determined the two "5.9k" resistors were originally 6.8k. Also, I varied the potentiometer values a bit:

Volume - during testing I changed this to 100kA (log) instead of 100kB (linear). The original schematic doesn't seem to indicate a value, but I felt using an audio (log) taper allowed a smoother fade. (Actually in the end I had to use a 9mm pot, and only had 50kA on hand, and that worked fine too).

Freq - changed to 100kB (linear) instead of 100kA (log) - just seemed to range a little better.

Tone - in the original, this was a 10kC (Anti-log). 10kA (log) was specified, which is probably less suited than linear. I actually used a 10kB (linear) with a 2k resistor between pins 2 and 3 (wiper, CW) to vary the taper a bit. Pins 1 (CCW) and 2 (wiper) I wired to pins 2 and 3 on the PCB. The resulting range seemed to match the actual 808 pretty well. If you want to try this, I think a 2k2 resistor would be close enough.

Cheers
Blair


Thanx Blair, gonna try your values.

And what about the Decay pot, what did you use?

Cheers


mome rath

I have one of these stuffed that I never got working, if anybody would like to buy it from me. I can't imagine what I possibly did wrong since there are so few parts, but my modular is in storage for at least the next year and I won't have time in the foreseeable future to get back into DIY.

PM me if interested. It clicks and does a few things when fed gate signals (or so I recall--it's been since March that last messed with it).

Was really excited about this project--pretty bummed I messed it up!


ringstone

logicgate wrote:
ringstone wrote:
Built these up this week, working well. From comparing the circuit with the original I determined the two "5.9k" resistors were originally 6.8k. Also, I varied the potentiometer values a bit:

Volume - during testing I changed this to 100kA (log) instead of 100kB (linear). The original schematic doesn't seem to indicate a value, but I felt using an audio (log) taper allowed a smoother fade. (Actually in the end I had to use a 9mm pot, and only had 50kA on hand, and that worked fine too).

Freq - changed to 100kB (linear) instead of 100kA (log) - just seemed to range a little better.

Tone - in the original, this was a 10kC (Anti-log). 10kA (log) was specified, which is probably less suited than linear. I actually used a 10kB (linear) with a 2k resistor between pins 2 and 3 (wiper, CW) to vary the taper a bit. Pins 1 (CCW) and 2 (wiper) I wired to pins 2 and 3 on the PCB. The resulting range seemed to match the actual 808 pretty well. If you want to try this, I think a 2k2 resistor would be close enough.

Cheers
Blair


Thanx Blair, gonna try your values.

And what about the Decay pot, what did you use?

Cheers


I think it was 250kB, as per the PCB marking? Anyway, on this PCB the resistor that controls the amount of feedback on the opamp (and hence the decay) has been reduced to 42k2 from 47k, so this compensates (original pot value was was 500kB).

I actually stuck in a 39k resistor and a 10k trimpot in series so I could fine tune the decay length. It's pretty cramped though!

Cheers
Blair

EDIT: Sorry, the decay pot IS 500kB as per the original.


ringstone

asterisk wrote:
i had one mod question:

how do you extend the upper frequency range of the 808 BD?
id like mine to go up a fair bit higher than it does.
the lower end of the range is fine with me.

thanks!


You could try changing the values of the pair of 15nF caps and/or the 1M resistor in the Twin-T bridge. If you look on the top right hand side of page 5 of the TR-808 service manual it explains how this works. You can find the service manual here:

http://www.dinsync.info/2010/02/roland-tr-808-service-manual.html

Cheers
Blair


dionnaki

I want one....Could i put this in my euro rack??? And also what are the components that are not labelled...(2 circles with a plus sign in the top right hand corner...2 green circles in each and a yellow box in each...underneath the big 1u cap and the 33n cap)

Thanks


elmegil

The board is 1 7/16 x 2 3/8, it should fit easily behind a Euro panel.

The circles are described up above as 47uF electrolytic caps.

Edit: or do you mean the power connector?


falafelbiels

Ok, I'm waiting for some bc546 and 556 to arrive on tuesday, but I want to build this tomorrow. Will bc547 and bc557 do?


ringstone

falafelbiels wrote:
Ok, I'm waiting for some bc546 and 556 to arrive on tuesday, but I want to build this tomorrow. Will bc547 and bc557 do?


I think any general purpose transistors should work. I used 2sc945 and 2sa733 as per the original (but of course I had to observe the different pinout).

Cheers
Blair


falafelbiels

Ok thanks man I'll just give it a try...


elmegil

I built a stripboard version a while back, and used 547/557 and it works just fine.


falafelbiels

Swell!


julian

First up, i must apologise for the radio silence from this end. The rest of my life is somewhat eating into "synth time" : /

Anyhow, i eventually got around to cutting some euro panels for this project. Photos below -

(note - please excuse the dust on the panels - i actually cut them a while back, and i think the final photo may explain things!)









(yep, that's our kitchen... )



Back to the panels -

Above is what i have currently. Ie 4-off black (silver writing) and 3-off silver (each different).

Im happy to keep to my afore mentioned pricing on these (GBP 20 each), however, if i make more, i will increase the price a little.

Shipping?

I guess UK GBP 2 / EU GBP 3 / ROW GBP 3.5 ?

(any number to the same address)

Payment options -

paypal 'personal' with fees pre-paid by sender
google checkout with card surcharges added
bank transfer in euros or gbp



Like i say, this is what i have at the moment. Fist come, first served on them. I can obviously cut more, but i would probably want to put up the price by a couple of GBP per unit.


Again, sorry its been so long - i wont think the worst if noone wants them any more!


steffensen

julian
Id love to get 1 black with silver writing please!

Still havent got any confirmation about actually getting the PCB for this thing, but i guess ill take my chances before the Panels are gone. smile


julian

have pm'd you


Arnoid

bananeurysm wrote:

Either the 909BD or the Simmons SDS3 (general purpose drum) will be next. I don't have an eta - but I'm working on em both. Troubleshooting my 909BD pcb, and prototyping the SDS3.


Any news on the SDS3 hihi


FetidEye

are there any PCB's left?


falafelbiels

Mine works!




SMS303

nice one F'Biels 8_)
what are the extra in-outputs?
Arnoid wrote:
bananeurysm wrote:
and prototyping the SDS3.

Any news on the SDS3 hihi

whoot whoot!!! i'm in for a sds3 pcb hyper


falafelbiels

Thanks Cas,

It has a trigger output for when I hit the trigger button!

w00t


Stepbit

Hello,

You will have to excuse my lack of knowledge here, I am interested in putting a trigger "button" on the module or just making one to use with it. Does anyone have the time to describe how that would work/ or have a link to a page that can help me?


falafelbiels

I do, but I have to get sober first.


Barcode

falafelbiels wrote:
I do, but I have to get sober first.


beer!


falafelbiels



I have my doubts about the necessity of one of those diodes, but it won't hurt to solder that in. So far I also built a rimshot and it's fun to tap in rhythms and nicely possible to add variation to your pattern on the fly.
To be honest I don't understand why not all drum modules have this...


mcop

falafelbiels wrote:
... it's fun to tap in rhythms and nicely possible to add variation to your pattern on the fly.
To be honest I don't understand why not all drum modules have this...


One of the things I like about triggering from my mpc. Can have a basic loop running and add extra as I want it. Plus you can have fun with the note repeat as well.


falafelbiels

mcop

Sure thing, but I haven't found any 808 kick samples that sound quite like this module. I actually also built a midi to trigger device last week, with 16 trigger outputs arranged like the MPC pads. Dead handy!


raisinbag

Hey what midi to 16 triggers thing did you build? I'm finishing my kick tonight and hope to start to put together a dedicated drum case. Just not sure how I want to drive it all.


falafelbiels

I used an earlier version of this

It is a rather nice bit of kit, works perfectly on 12V. I did buffer the outputs with a bunch of bc547.


raisinbag

hey mr Hex, BOM for Tune-Decay pot says 100kb pot but wiring Diagram says 1Ma pot. Which one should I use.

I'm also subbing a 1k for the 470R pot and a 50k for the 47K. does that sound kosher?


Stepbit

falafelbiels, thank you for posting this smile


hexinverter

raisinbag wrote:
hey mr Hex, BOM for Tune-Decay pot says 100kb pot but wiring Diagram says 1Ma pot. Which one should I use.

I'm also subbing a 1k for the 470R pot and a 50k for the 47K. does that sound kosher?


HAHA you're in the wrong thread Mr. Bag xD This is not my thread. I just happen to be following it though, so, I saw your post applause

Do you mean the NeinOhNein kick? Follow the schematic/PCB value -- I seem to have made some errors in the wiring diagram for pot value in some projects...hmph. Silly me.


raisinbag

Oh phuk that's embarrassing. I just saw kick drum in thread and looked
No further. very frustrating Ya I figured out after looking at pcb drawing. Thanks again.


EMwhite

falafelbiels wrote:


I have my doubts about the necessity of one of those diodes, but it won't hurt to solder that in. So far I also built a rimshot and it's fun to tap in rhythms and nicely possible to add variation to your pattern on the fly.
To be honest I don't understand why not all drum modules have this...


What is the resultant ( <- is that a word?) voltage that comes from pressing the button, is it +5V? (not even sure what the trigger jack is supposed to be, I think I read somewhere that Bananaurism used a popular comparator circuit to make the trigger/gate foolproof?

My 2nd question is: if powering from +15V instead of 12, what would you change in order to keep everything safe/reasonable?

Thank you in advance.


mcop

falafelbiels
I'm actually using a sample of a trigger pulse from my MPC to trigger drum modules at the moment. Works well and you also have variety in the sound of the drum being triggered as the trigger pulse sample is played at different velocities. Also have a Alesis Samplepad linked into the MPC which I can play with sticks.
Eventually I'm intending to extend this setup with a dedicated Midi to Trigger unit to free up the audio outs on my MPC but for now it all works fine.


falafelbiels

EMwhite wrote:
What is the resultant ( <- is that a word?) voltage that comes from pressing the button, is it +5V? (not even sure what the trigger jack is supposed to be, I think I read somewhere that Bananaurism used a popular comparator circuit to make the trigger/gate foolproof?


I think that should be 12v minus the forward voltage drop of the 1n4148 which could be half a volt or something like that?
I don't know about that comparator as I haven't even seen schematics for this particular build and I haven't tried reverse engineering it. It does seem to react differently to different triggers, but I think that has more to do with trigger length.

EMwhite wrote:

My 2nd question is: if powering from +15V instead of 12, what would you change in order to keep everything safe/reasonable?

Thank you in advance.


I believe everything will work fine as is.


bananeurysm

Yeah - the trigger input should be super tolerant. It's triggered pretty easily from me via a variety of sources. (MPC samples, trig outs from roland drum machines, modular square waves, touching the positive 9v battery rail to the trigger, etc)

I've posted a high res of the schematic elsewhere in this thread - but here's a lower res link again if you want to check out the trigger input: http://anestheticaudio.com/files/dimgs/rsz_h369_13_33.jpg


bananeurysm

Yeah - the trigger input should be super tolerant. It's triggered pretty easily from me via a variety of sources. (MPC samples, trig outs from roland drum machines, modular square waves, touching the positive 9v battery rail to the trigger, etc)

I've posted a high res of the schematic elsewhere in this thread - but here's a lower res link again if you want to check out the trigger input: http://anestheticaudio.com/files/dimgs/rsz_h369_13_33.jpg


strategy

I've had quite a saga with my BD808, which Bananeurysm knows a little about since we're in the same town here. First of all my build had only intermittent trigger compatibility with Roland TR-606.

I took my 808BD on tour and was forced to check a carry-on bag due to lack of overhead bin capacity on a plane flight. All my equipment was crushed. The airline paid for my repairs but I JUST got my BD808 build put back together.

I decided I would do some improvements to my build. First of all to see if I could figure out the Roland trigger compatibility issue and secondly to make it more robust. and to omit the need for 2 batteries.

The TR-606 would trigger my BD808 but only if I used certain brand 1/8" cables and only in my studio. Taking the setup to other locations, it would not work. I think a ground issue from using 2x batteries.

I now have added a power supply from these guys www.generalguitargadets.com that allows +/-9V to be generated via a MAX1044 charge pump taking only 9V. By using a wallwart I seem to get constant compatibility with the TR606 triggers. I think not having floating ground helps. no scientific explanation. I am going to take the setup to some nightclub with shitty electricity and see if I get ground issues there between the drum machine and the BD808.

The box has extra room now so I am thinking to add hexinverter clap module in the same box.

strategy


strategy

I've had quite a saga with my BD808, which Bananeurysm knows a little about since we're in the same town here. First of all my build had only intermittent trigger compatibility with Roland TR-606.

I took my 808BD on tour and was forced to check a carry-on bag due to lack of overhead bin capacity on a plane flight. All my equipment was crushed. The airline paid for my repairs but I JUST got my BD808 build put back together.

I decided I would do some improvements to my build. First of all to see if I could figure out the Roland trigger compatibility issue and secondly to make it more robust. and to omit the need for 2 batteries.

The TR-606 would trigger my BD808 but only if I used certain brand 1/8" cables and only in my studio. Taking the setup to other locations, it would not work. I think a ground issue from using 2x batteries.

I now have added a power supply from these guys www.generalguitargadets.com that allows +/-9V to be generated via a MAX1044 charge pump taking only 9V. By using a wallwart I seem to get constant compatibility with the TR606 triggers. I think not having floating ground helps. no scientific explanation. I am going to take the setup to some nightclub with shitty electricity and see if I get ground issues there between the drum machine and the BD808.

The box has extra room now so I am thinking to add hexinverter clap module in the same box.

strategy


steffensen

I gotta say, im amazed how many of you that managed to make this build and mounting it to a panel etc.

I had to use brute force to get the electros leads in those too narrow holes, wont ever be able to desolder and replace them if they go bust. smile
Also struggling to find a decent way to mount it to my panel, will need some clever modifications to everything involved.

Thanks for all the good info in this thread as well, i should have read the 17 pages more thoroughly before ordering pots and such. razz


falafelbiels

steffensen wrote:

Also struggling to find a decent way to mount it to my panel, will need some clever modifications to everything involved.


I did it like this:




steffensen

falafelbiels wrote:
steffensen wrote:

Also struggling to find a decent way to mount it to my panel, will need some clever modifications to everything involved.


I did it like this:



Truly awesome! Youre all so very talented. w00t
Im working on a mounting idea for this 4HP panel i have. Might just work.. Playing with the micromillimeters here.


chaosium

Sent out an email a week ago, I hope there's still some supply :p


bananeurysm

chaosium wrote:
Sent out an email a week ago, I hope there's still some supply :p


I must've missed your email - try again, or shoot me a pm. I have plenty in stock. You can also order them here if ya like:
https://www.tindie.com/shops/jmej/808-kick-drum-clone-pcb/


bananeurysm

steffensen wrote:
I gotta say, im amazed how many of you that managed to make this build and mounting it to a panel etc.

I had to use brute force to get the electros leads in those too narrow holes, wont ever be able to desolder and replace them if they go bust. smile
Also struggling to find a decent way to mount it to my panel, will need some clever modifications to everything involved.

Thanks for all the good info in this thread as well, i should have read the 17 pages more thoroughly before ordering pots and such. razz


Just to clarify - are you saying the electrolytics you ordered didn't fit into the holes on the pcb? I wonder if anyone else had this problem.. first I've heard (and I didn't have that issue myself) - but if it's common, could be worth a revision change.

Any other pcb design feedback is welcome - I've sold a lot of them, and am happy to keep em in stock - and fix any potential issues on a new rev.

Mounting wise.. I use off board, panel mount pots for mine, and just let the board hang out in a plastic box. But there are mounting holes if you need to bolt it down. Are they too cramped to be useful for you? I know they get close to a couple parts, but was thinking there'd be enough clearance if you work it right.


twospartans

negativspace wrote:
(How about the 808 Cymbal?)


My thoughts exactly!


-008'

Got mine working nicely. It's motherfucking bacon yo big thanks to bananeurysm!!
This thing sounds really good. I am surprised by how "clean" it is.


@falafelbiels thank you for sharing that schem!
Do you think it would work for 9v or, would I need to make adjustments?Appreciate any info


steffensen

bananeurysm wrote:
steffensen wrote:
I gotta say, im amazed how many of you that managed to make this build and mounting it to a panel etc.

I had to use brute force to get the electros leads in those too narrow holes, wont ever be able to desolder and replace them if they go bust. smile
Also struggling to find a decent way to mount it to my panel, will need some clever modifications to everything involved.

Thanks for all the good info in this thread as well, i should have read the 17 pages more thoroughly before ordering pots and such. razz


Just to clarify - are you saying the electrolytics you ordered didn't fit into the holes on the pcb? I wonder if anyone else had this problem.. first I've heard (and I didn't have that issue myself) - but if it's common, could be worth a revision change.

Any other pcb design feedback is welcome - I've sold a lot of them, and am happy to keep em in stock - and fix any potential issues on a new rev.

Mounting wise.. I use off board, panel mount pots for mine, and just let the board hang out in a plastic box. But there are mounting holes if you need to bolt it down. Are they too cramped to be useful for you? I know they get close to a couple parts, but was thinking there'd be enough clearance if you work it right.


Yes, my electrolytics surely didnt fit without strong force. Ive built quite a few PCB's by now, and never had this problem before. I use some pretty common nichicon UFG electros. seriously, i just don't get it
I found it to be a nice build otherwise. Its very tight! But its completely doable. Pretty fast as well. (I kinda like the looks of all the resistors standing up like that too)
I too have my pots panelized, even tho i always prefer to have them on the PCB. Which makes life a ton easier imo. smile
Would be cool with a version where there could fit some PCB mounted pots.

I have now made some alu pieces bent horizontally over the knobs and back where i then mounted the board to. Just gotta finish another build then ill do the wiring for the 808 and cross my fingers it works after the brute force being done. razz


elmegil

I'd think the cymbal would have to come as a set; the sound source used for the cymbal is also used for the high hats and part of the circuitry for the cowbell. Over on E-M Minus posted some stripboard layouts for four boards, but I would imagine it would be doable on two PCBs...though I don't know if you have to do them in Euro size, perhaps not.


Isaiah

808 Snare! Rockin' Banana!


Emalot

In my 808 BD, the Freq Pot do nothing before middle. i have to change value?
I use 100K log.


strategy

I should have thought about this now that I have reconfigured my BD808 for 9V wall wart power adaptor: what should the minimum mA be for this circuit? thanks
Strategy


-008'

Hey guys, wanted to post a pic of my finished 808BD...not too shabby for just about


Here is my blog post for it: http://www.008refills.com/2013/04/03/analog-d-i-y-tr-808-bd/

im a big dork so, i made a standalone version, with all panel components configured like my -008' logo.
Many thanks again to bananeurysm for this PCB and his patience with my noob questions.

I couldnt get the code to work so, here is a soundcloud link featuring this BD: https://soundcloud.com/oo8/008-808-bd

Very grateful for this forum, thanks again to everyone SlayerBadger!


bananeurysm

Nice to see so many thumpin!

808 cymbals/hats would be nice - but I have a couple other (slowly moving) drum voice projects ahead of that. I hope to have more news on that soon!

Paul - Sorry I have no idea what minimum ma would be for it.. if you figure it out - let us know!


bananeurysm

Just wanted to direct attention to my edited first post - all orders are going through tindie now!
https://www.tindie.com/shops/jmej/808-kick-drum-clone-pcb/

Thanks!


bananeurysm

Emalot wrote:
In my 808 BD, the Freq Pot do nothing before middle. i have to change value?
I use 100K log.


100k log is the correct value for the frequency pot.. not sure what's going on there. You might double check the value of the 5.9k resistors.. offhand I'm not sure where on the board the relevant one is (there are at least 2) - but you might as well check em both!

http://www.anestheticaudio.com/808bd_sc.jpg


Stepbit

So I built this little guy today and basically it makes a constant tone, the pots affect level, decay, tone , and freq, but its not a drum at this point just drones on. I did not intend to use a an accent so I have nothing soldered anything to the jack. I have read in this thread that I need to tie the 12v+ to the accent input. That I will do but Im still confused because according to the posts I have read I should actually hear nothing right now.

Hopefully someone can help!

Thank you This is fun!


bananeurysm

Stepbit wrote:
So I built this little guy today and basically it makes a constant tone, the pots affect level, decay, tone , and freq, but its not a drum at this point just drones on. I did not intend to use a an accent so I have nothing soldered anything to the jack. I have read in this thread that I need to tie the 12v+ to the accent input. That I will do but Im still confused because according to the posts I have read I should actually hear nothing right now.

Hopefully someone can help!

Thank you This is fun!


Hmm.. yes you should hear nothing right now.. not a constant tone. You will need to connect the accent to +12 to hear the kick. Double check all your wiring, power, cap, chip, transistor orientation, etc


Stepbit

Thanks,

Im not sure. I'm going to try replacing the IC.


bananeurysm wrote:
Stepbit wrote:
So I built this little guy today and basically it makes a constant tone, the pots affect level, decay, tone , and freq, but its not a drum at this point just drones on. I did not intend to use a an accent so I have nothing soldered anything to the jack. I have read in this thread that I need to tie the 12v+ to the accent input. That I will do but Im still confused because according to the posts I have read I should actually hear nothing right now.

Hopefully someone can help!

Thank you This is fun!


Hmm.. yes you should hear nothing right now.. not a constant tone. You will need to connect the accent to +12 to hear the kick. Double check all your wiring, power, cap, chip, transistor orientation, etc



Stepbit

bananeurysm wrote:
Stepbit wrote:
So I built this little guy today and basically it makes a constant tone, the pots affect level, decay, tone , and freq, but its not a drum at this point just drones on. I did not intend to use a an accent so I have nothing soldered anything to the jack. I have read in this thread that I need to tie the 12v+ to the accent input. That I will do but Im still confused because according to the posts I have read I should actually hear nothing right now.

Hopefully someone can help!

Thank you This is fun!


Hmm.. yes you should hear nothing right now.. not a constant tone. You will need to connect the accent to +12 to hear the kick. Double check all your wiring, power, cap, chip, transistor orientation, etc


I used bc546b transistors instead of bc546a...do you think that matters?


elmegil

I have BC546B's in mine and it works fine.

I would expect you have a problem with one of the four "input" transistors. There are two at the accent/trigger input section and two shortly after that going into the upper part of the twin T oscillator that makes the tone. Clearly if the tone etc are all changing with pots your op amp is probably fine. It sounds like something is constantly turned on when it shouldn't be, which I would expect to be one of the transistors shorted or something.

Or possibly a solder bridge in that vicinity?


LeFreq

-008' wrote:
Hey guys, wanted to post a pic of my finished 808BD...not too shabby for just about


Here is my blog post for it: http://www.008refills.com/2013/04/03/analog-d-i-y-tr-808-bd/

im a big dork so, i made a standalone version, with all panel components configured like my -008' logo.
Many thanks again to bananeurysm for this PCB and his patience with my noob questions.

I couldnt get the code to work so, here is a soundcloud link featuring this BD: https://soundcloud.com/oo8/008-808-bd

Very grateful for this forum, thanks again to everyone SlayerBadger!


Very awesome! applause

I'm planning on doing the same thing with several different modular PCB builds... A lot of them would be great as standalone units. So, could you tell me where you snagged that case?


Stepbit

elmegil wrote:
I have BC546B's in mine and it works fine.

I would expect you have a problem with one of the four "input" transistors. There are two at the accent/trigger input section and two shortly after that going into the upper part of the twin T oscillator that makes the tone. Clearly if the tone etc are all changing with pots your op amp is probably fine. It sounds like something is constantly turned on when it shouldn't be, which I would expect to be one of the transistors shorted or something.

Or possibly a solder bridge in that vicinity?


First off thank you for responding, I have looked at the pcb at length and I see no cold solders or shorts. I have disconnected the trigger and accent all together and it still does this. If I touch the battery to hot it sort of triggers and does a downward fall of freq then rests at a steady tone. Very frustrating I guess its possible the transistors were bad to begin with? I will try and replace them ...


-008'

LeFreq wrote:

Very awesome! applause

I'm planning on doing the same thing with several different modular PCB builds... A lot of them would be great as standalone units. So, could you tell me where you snagged that case?


Hey thanks!

That case is from "OKW Enclosures". http://www.okwenclosures.com/
I probably overpaid but, I really wanted something "perfect" for this, with the 2x9v battery cradle and all.. Anyway, they had what I needed and, they delivered very quickly! Hope that helps smile


analogdata

finishedexcept for one critical thing.

I want to solder the doepfer power cable to the pcb.
what wire goes where?

elementary to most of you I guess but not to me.


elmegil

http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100t_e.htm


analogdata

elmegil wrote:
http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100t_e.htm

thank you!


elmegil

You're welcome. Sorry I was in a hurry yesterday and so terse about it :-)


thebot

I got mine up and running with a temporary panel last night. I'm 5U so I'm running it off 15V, and oh my god is this the business. Just spent a joyous hour playing along with the boom!

I'm getting it to trigger with both a pulse from an LFO at 5V and also an arcade button tied to 15V tied to the switching input on my jack, so it doesn't seem too fussy about the trigger source.

Can't believe that this much joy comes out of a PCB so small! Pics to follow once schaeffer get me the panel....


bananeurysm

nice! stoked!!!


jonbstevens

Got mine finished last night, it's going into a Bud AC-423 box along with a bunch of other drum circuits. I wired a SPDT switch to either short the accent to +15v or switch to the accent input.

Works great and sounds very nice.


spneca

Just finished mine. I have been using the gate out of my Mutable Instruments Anushri to trigger it, and everything seems to be working except for the pitch. It is stuck around 150 Hz and turning the frequency pot doesn't seem to do anything. Any ideas on where to start looking for problems? The solder joints with the pot (100k A) seems to be good, and the resistance of the pot changes when turned, so I don't think that it is the problem.


woodster

I've just placed an order for one these ickle beauties.
Looking forward to some earth shaking 808'ness


bananeurysm

sounds like spneca found an incorrect transistor due to a mouser packaging error and get the kick working. figured I'd post here in case it's useful to someone.

unresponsive pitch was caused by a BC556 in place of a BC546 on the pcb.


spneca

bananeurysm wrote:
sounds like spneca found an incorrect transistor due to a mouser packaging error and get the kick working. figured I'd post here in case it's useful to someone.

unresponsive pitch was caused by a BC556 in place of a BC546 on the pcb.


Sorry if I wasn't clear in my PM. It was actually a BC546 where the BC556 should have been.


julian

Im almost out of these -








...and am wondering if anyone would be interested in some 5u panels with the same sort of design, at around GBP 25 each?

Thank you,
Julian

The Beast UK Ltd
www.thebeast.co.uk


woodster

Hi Julian,

I'm looking forward to receiving the Silver/Orange panel.


julian

Your order was what made me think of posting up here again : )

(your part was sent out this morning, and, i suspect, may even be with you tomorrow)


julian

Talking of drums - anyone building a 909 clone to go with the 808 parts?





woodster

woah


woodster

Received my BD808 panel yesterday.
Many Thanks Julian.


bananeurysm

Nice looking panels Julian!


woodster

Hey bananeurysm,

I just today received the PCB.
Many Thanks for making it available.
I now just need to order the parts to populate it, and sort out a method of fixing/mounting the PCB to something.


eonz

So I just finished putting the pcb together and everything works great (as far as I can tell), the only issue I am having at the moment is with the "tone". Right now I am getting no response at all from the tone pot...it's as if there is no tone effect coming through at all very frustrating

I am wondering if anyone has had this issue, and/or can maybe direct me to the relating components?


elmegil

The tone pot is parallel to a 10K resistor and in series with a 220 ohm resistor.

What should be happening is that the output tapped through that 220 ohm resistor and the pot in parallel with the 10K and the .1uF cap is going through a passive LPF that will cut the high end.

The effect is not extremely strong, but it should be noticeable. You aren't doing something like EQing out the click, right?

If you measure the resistance of the pot (at the wiper), with it in parallel to the 10K you should see resistance vary from 0 to 5K.


eonz

elmegil wrote:
If you measure the resistance of the pot (at the wiper), with it in parallel to the 10K you should see resistance vary from 0 to 5K.



You are referring to the 10k resistor at the top left of the pcb, right?
I measured that one to the wiper of the tone pot and got 0 to 5k, but I still have no effect on the tone pot...not even slightly seriously, i just don't get it


eonz

So I just put a jumper from the 220 resistor to pin 3 of the tone pot and right away the volume boosted up to a now normal level and the tone pot seems to be working properly.

Is there any harm in this connection? By doing this, will it effect anything else ?


elmegil

So this is the schematic, from page 9 previous:



The 220 is supposed to be connected to pin 3 of the tone pot, so your solution confuses me :-). Did you somehow not have that connected? You shouldn't have had any output then. Is it possible you had a cold solder joint in the original wiring going to the pot?


LetterBeacon

Are the PCBs going to be in stock in the near future?


bananeurysm

Yes! I didn't mean to let them run out, it snuck up on me.

Another round is on the way - I expect to have them in a couple weeks, I'll update the tindie shop, and post here when they come in.


LetterBeacon

Good news, thanks!


FetidEye

in the mouser BOM there are :

3 x 47k -- i see only 1
2 x 1k -- i see only 1

i also checked the schematics.

????


bananeurysm

Hmm.. the schematic hasn't changed - so I must've made a mistake in the BOM. Surprised no-one has mentioned it...


soup

The case is a little too small for comfort but...



... it sounds great. Thanks for this.


bananeurysm

soup wrote:
The case is a little too small for comfort but...



... it sounds great. Thanks for this.


Wow! Impressive!

I have that same hammond box (but in orange).. I've bought it with the idea of putting one of these inside - but I was too intimidated by the tiny-ness. You made it happen though!


soup

bananeurysm wrote:
Wow! Impressive!

I have that same hammond box (but in orange).. I've bought it with the idea of putting one of these inside - but I was too intimidated by the tiny-ness. You made it happen though!


It just fits. The two batteries and the button take up about half the case! I quite new to all this diy stuff so I keep underestimating this stuff. But whatever ... we're Tigra and Bunny and we like the BOOM.


FetidEye

i just wired mine.
all i get is a constant tone when the decay pot is fully CW.
other than that, nothing. no click, no bass

i wired 12v to the accent input .

I checked the wiring, solderjoints etc. no problems there.


please help !


elmegil

Are all the transistors right? One is a PNP, the others are NPN.

Make sure you're seeing your trigger pulse at the collector of that PNP, basically after the input section (one NPN & one PNP) and before it splits and goes into the .015 cap parallel to a 100K resistor on one leg and up into a pair of NPNs on the other.

If you're seeing trigger there, then check the collector of the second one of those NPNs that it branched to (they're cascaded).

Have you checked voltages on the op amp chip? Is it reasonable to swap the chip?

Sorry I can't really refer to component values, I'm looking at the original service manual and I have no idea what's labelled what on this PCB without pulling mine out of the rack downstairs and squinting around the components.


FetidEye

ok i'm going to check this.
i hope i don't have to desolder those transistors Dead Banana


soup

Make sure the op-amp ic is inserted the right way, it goes in the opposite the direction of the text on the pcb. This messed me up at first.


rosch

soup wrote:
Make sure the op-amp ic is inserted the right way, it goes in the opposite the direction of the text on the pcb. This messed me up at first.

what? it goes in the opposite way to as indicated on the board?
i'm afraid i won't be able to desolder that sucker another time without ripping off pads.

[i had the continuous tone too when i tried it. however i killed my 909 kick during that try (stupid way of connecting psu) so i assumed the 808 must have gone the same path.]


soup

I'm not sure it is opposite to what's indicated on the board, but it was opposite to the way I assumed it should go in which was matching the direction of the text on the pcb to the text on the IC. If you look at page 16 of this thread there are big pictures where you can clearly see the proper orientation.


rosch

alright, cool. that's the way i have it.
so it was probably because i fried the whole thing. i've exchanged IC and all transistors, but haven't tried again yet.


bananeurysm

Back in stock! Sorry for the runout!


bananeurysm

The IC silkscreens are all correct on the board. The notch on one side of the chip indicates pin 1. Your chip should also have a notch or a dot indicating the same.

If you connected power the wrong way.. unfortunately you may need to replace it. confused

Ripped up pads isn't the end of the world though. Use wires on the back of the board to make your connections!


rosch

no i think it's good then. i had a supply with screw terminals when i tested it. and i first connected gnd, then +15, then -15V which took about 2-3 minutes in the dark (also many little sparks on the terminal)
the 909 kick works again but i haven't tried the 808 yet. the ic is in the right way, so fingers crossed wink


astroschnautzer

FetidEye wrote:
i just wired mine.
all i get is a constant tone when the decay pot is fully CW.
other than that, nothing. no click, no bass

i wired 12v to the accent input .

I checked the wiring, solderjoints etc. no problems there.


please help !
I have this exact same problem....


jbaken

could the decay be even further extended by lowering the 42.2k resistor? has anyone experimented with this? I love using long 808 samples for modern hiphop stuff and it would be cool to incorporate that into some patches


soup

jbaken wrote:
could the decay be even further extended by lowering the 42.2k resistor? has anyone experimented with this? I love using long 808 samples for modern hiphop stuff and it would be cool to incorporate that into some patches


I just used the parts that were spec'ed and with the decay knob fully clockwise it already goes forever.


bananeurysm

jbaken wrote:
could the decay be even further extended by lowering the 42.2k resistor? has anyone experimented with this? I love using long 808 samples for modern hiphop stuff and it would be cool to incorporate that into some patches


I've experienced quite a bit of decay length variance across different builds. (Not really sure why). That resistor is definitely worth playing with if you wanna mess with different decay times!


zedius

Man, this'll be a great first project for my new bench! Purchasing right now. Thanks!


jbaken

hmm i think i ended up using a 43k bc that was all i had on hand. could be just out of reach of the infinity sustain i was lookin for. will try some lower values and see. thanks guys


bananeurysm

oh yeah - happy 808 day!


falafelbiels

thumbs up

Any new projects coming up by the way?


ringstone

bananeurysm wrote:
jbaken wrote:
could the decay be even further extended by lowering the 42.2k resistor? has anyone experimented with this? I love using long 808 samples for modern hiphop stuff and it would be cool to incorporate that into some patches


I've experienced quite a bit of decay length variance across different builds. (Not really sure why). That resistor is definitely worth playing with if you wanna mess with different decay times!


The decay is very finely balanced just before the point of feedback, so minor tolerance variations in the rest of the circuit will mean that different builds will most likely have some variation in max decay length. This is true of the original too BTW! I replaced the resistor with a trimmer (and resistor in series) in order to be able to fine tune the decay length.

Cheers
Blair


FetidEye

i measured the voltages of the opamp. +12v on pin8 , -12v om pin4
so that is ok. i swapped the chip to be sure, but no luck yet.

when i connect a scope to the collector of the bcc556 i dont see the pulse.
(the pin that is the farthest away from the opamp, next to the diode, is that correct?)

what should i do now. i bought that bcc556 new, it shouldn't be broken right?

tips would be welcome!



elmegil wrote:
Are all the transistors right? One is a PNP, the others are NPN.

Make sure you're seeing your trigger pulse at the collector of that PNP, basically after the input section (one NPN & one PNP) and before it splits and goes into the .015 cap parallel to a 100K resistor on one leg and up into a pair of NPNs on the other.

If you're seeing trigger there, then check the collector of the second one of those NPNs that it branched to (they're cascaded).

Have you checked voltages on the op amp chip? Is it reasonable to swap the chip?

Sorry I can't really refer to component values, I'm looking at the original service manual and I have no idea what's labelled what on this PCB without pulling mine out of the rack downstairs and squinting around the components.



bananeurysm

FetidEye wrote:
i measured the voltages of the opamp. +12v on pin8 , -12v om pin4
so that is ok. i swapped the chip to be sure, but no luck yet.

when i connect a scope to the collector of the bcc556 i dont see the pulse.
(the pin that is the farthest away from the opamp, next to the diode, is that correct?)

what should i do now. i bought that bcc556 new, it shouldn't be broken right?

tips would be welcome!



hmm.. I'm confused. I'm seeing datsheets for the 556 show the collector varyingly on pin 1 and pin 3

It looks like NXP is an outlier. http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/345105/NXP/BC556.html

I believe you're right - the collector should be on pin 1. Double check the datasheet for the part you ordered and make sure that's the case


bananeurysm

falafelbiels wrote:
thumbs up

Any new projects coming up by the way?


Yes! SDS3 pcbs are very much in progress.. waiting on some fresh parts to troubleshoot our current rev.

The SDS3 thread actually lives over here http://173.201.189.104/forum/topic-16985-300.html

(Where I post as jmejia)

Hopefully we'll get em bangin and ready for delivery soon! It's been a loooooong time in the works.


FetidEye

i did some measuring again on the bc556
can't find the order form.

trigger input (from gate out sympleseq)

pin 1 = nothing
pin 2 = 12v
pin 3 = 12v


bananeurysm

FetidEye wrote:
i did some measuring again on the bc556
can't find the order form.

trigger input (from gate out sympleseq)

pin 1 = nothing
pin 2 = 12v
pin 3 = 12v


Hmm.. seems like you should be getting less than 12v on pin2. Except when a trigger is hitting it. (But someone more knowledgable than me should maybe jump in here)

Check with a scope if you can.. instead of a DMM

Also - what is the brand of your 556?


FetidEye

i checked with a scope just now.

no other movement on pin 1 and 2 than 12v

i can't find my order of the 556, so no ID yet
I'm thinking that those transistors must be the problem.
i'll order some new ones soon, using that mouser cart from the BOM
(should have done that in the first place)
I didn't know that there was that much difference between 'the same' parts
sad banana

i see a sine wave at the opamp pin 1 + 7 (as it should be, i think)


rosch

the difference might just be swapped outer pins, you could give that a try.


bananeurysm

FetidEye wrote:
i checked with a scope just now.

no other movement on pin 1 and 2 than 12v

i can't find my order of the 556, so no ID yet
I'm thinking that those transistors must be the problem.
i'll order some new ones soon, using that mouser cart from the BOM
(should have done that in the first place)
I didn't know that there was that much difference between 'the same' parts
sad banana

i see a sine wave at the opamp pin 1 + 7 (as it should be, i think)


I also thought all 566's would have the same pinout.. but unless I'm reading that datasheet wrong - seems that there is at least 1 strange part out there.

Sounds like your opamp is working just fine. I think theres just an issue with your trigger.

Double check your trigger input wiring (stupid I know but just in case) - before swapping out those 2 transistors. And maybe reflow the solder around the trigger components using this as a guide to find the parts: http://www.anestheticaudio.com/808bd_sc.jpg

I noticed that the bc556 isn't clearly labeled in the schematic, but it's the unmarked transistor with it's base connected to the trigger section and accent sections. It's also the only pnp transistor in the schematic.


FetidEye

i reflowed every solder joint, checked the trigger wiring.
(i see the trigger at the trigger input pin)

can i follow Rosch's advice, without risking magic smoke?
(desolder the 556, and flip it 180 degrees.)


falafelbiels

Nothing wrong with a bit of magic smoke, it indicates stuff.


bananeurysm

yeah.. magic smoke is good. I hate it when I can't find the problem with a circuit.. smoke points the way!

try it out!


keei

Hi all,

I just ordered the PCB from Jesse but I am having troubles sourcing the BOM from Europe, Bulgaria (Mouser shipment is something like 40 USD to here Dead Banana ).

Have anyone from this part of the world been able to get the components and can provide some guidance?

Thanks!


bernd.wender

Have you tried Mouser Germany? (http://de.mouser.com/)


rosch

they ship from US too.
maybe you can get your stuff from www.Reichelt.de
there's no unobtainables involved in the kick.


falafelbiels

Looks pretty It's peanut butter jelly time!


bananeurysm wrote:
falafelbiels wrote:
thumbs up

Any new projects coming up by the way?


Yes! SDS3 pcbs are very much in progress.. waiting on some fresh parts to troubleshoot our current rev.

The SDS3 thread actually lives over here http://173.201.189.104/forum/topic-16985-300.html

(Where I post as jmejia)

Hopefully we'll get em bangin and ready for delivery soon! It's been a loooooong time in the works.



soup

I definitely need to add a power switch to the 808 kick I built but since it's powered by 2x 9V batteries I'm a little uncertain how to do this. If I wire the ring of a stereo jack on the output in between the ground from the 2 batteries and the pcb will this work? Assuming I remember to unplug it? Or is there a better way?


meatcliff

just disconnecting the ground won't work... jacks do exist with multiple isolated switches, but it's easier and cheaper to just add a double pole switch to kill the +9 and -9 rails at the same time.


soup

Thanks meatcliff. I'll try the switch.


Jonachi

Just bought the PCB a few days back and started reading this thread. I have two questions to my fellow wigglers (I'm a complete Noob at building so bare with me):

1. Can someone create a dumbed downed BOM for me that isn't mouser. Reason is they charged 40 dollars postage to here. Seems like a lot for components worth 15 dollars. A simple BOM woulf be nice, resiston 50k etc. etc.

2. How do I convert the 9v (3whole outputs) to fit the standard Eurorack cable? I would prefer not splitting a cable and solder straight into the wholes.

Thanks indvance.


bananeurysm

Can you explain "dumbed down bom"?

I could give you a simpler parts list.. but it would actually make it harder for you to find the right parts. You can click on any mouser part and get all the details necessary. (capacitor pin spacing, footprints, etc)

Regarding eurorack connector - my recommendation would be to cut the connector off of one of your power cables, and solder +v, ground, and -v to the locations marked as such on the 808 pcb. But are you saying you would prefer NOT to do this?

The only other approach that comes to mind would be making a an adapter on breadboard.. but that seems a lot more complicated...
Jonachi
Thanks.


Well, yes with dumbed down I meant a parts list. Or a list were I don't have to click and read lots of info about the part, open a new window from my store over here, compare the two and find out if it is the same. Surely not all components are that specific? Maybe highlight the ones that are in the partslist that needs to be this exact one?

I would prefer not soldering into the wholes, would prefer a less messy operation, most likely I'll have to do it though!
Jonachi
tried to put together an order for this build once again and failed, took me hours and I checked several different sites.

Too many specific components to order from one place (here in Sweden that is). The failure comes from the TL072IP (TL072IN is available though) as well as the 22pf capacitor not being availble at 50v (just 100v). Also the 1/4 resistors in the same values (especially in regard to the 50-100ppm specification, over here it seems to be either 50 or 200 ppm only) seems impossible to find over here. Could I swap to other components with same value or would it change the sound? I know Roland purists are sensible in this regard.

Another option would be ordering from mouser, but 40 dollars postage for 15 dollars worth of components just don't seem right. hihi
elmegil
I've built this circuit a couple of times now, once with this specific PCB and once on stripboard, and I don't recall paying any attention to the letters after TL072. Checking my stock, what I have are TL072CN and those appear to have worked just fine; even if those weren't the ones I used, I'm fairly sure I've never seen IP.

For something like the 22pF cap, 100V versus 50V shouldn't matter much--higher voltage usually means a bigger part, but at 22pF that's not going to be very significant. You don't want it too low or you'll end up blowing the cap, but the max voltage you're likely to see is 30V +/- a bit in a 5U system, and lower in Euro land, so.... 50V or higher should be plenty good.

As for resistors, again, I have never actually measured out the ppm specs or paid any attention to them for any of the circuits I've built, with the exception of Tempco resistors that have to match to do their job right.

I suppose some of these factors could matter if you're trying to exactly duplicate the non-ideal characteristics of the original circuit, but in that case, you're probably best off just getting a real one :-D.
Jonachi
elmegil-! Thank you!
Rockin' Banana!


Just what I want to hear right now. I'll complete an order soon! Hopefully this wont burn!
bananeurysm
The tolerance of parts in the 80s was generally larger than today.. but really none of that really matters. smile

For the resistors, what actually matters (besides the ohm value) is 1/4watt.. and that really only matters so they fit the pcb well. This will be the same with most projects you're probably building unless you're working with high power stuff.

For capacitors - the only thing (besides the farad value) that matters is really pin spacing. Although you can make weird footprints work.

For this IC.. yes TL072 is the only part that should matter. The letters that come after are more specific than we care about.

Trying to think if theres anything else... diodes are pretty much diodes afaik.

Potentiometers - you should pick what's right for your build. I like those alpha pots I have on there.. but all you really care about is the value, and you might care about the shaft style if you have specific knobs you want to put on it. I would avoid center-detents, switches, or anything else weird.

Just pretend the detail-ful mouser is the dumbed down list you're looking for and you should be fine! With the added bonus of being able to look at capacitor pin spacings.

That said - I am happy to output a less detail-ful parts list, but I keep forgetting and it's not on this box right now.
Jonachi
Quote:
Just pretend the detail-ful mouser is the dumbed down list you're looking for and you should be fine! With the added bonus of being able to look at capacitor pin spacings.


That's what I did eventually! Thanks everyone! You've been a great help. I'll let you know if I run into any problems during the build!
Axiom Crux
Im interested!
electricsheep
Cannot wait!
billieblaze
i'm having a similar constant tone problem as mentioned by a few others.. The plot thickens a little in that Tone seems to work, pitch has no effect and decay actually makes the pitch of the constant tone change.. even stranger, at VERY low decay setting, i get almost a bell sort of sound, anything higher and its straight oscillation.. halp!
bananeurysm
billieblaze wrote:
i'm having a similar constant tone problem as mentioned by a few others.. The plot thickens a little in that Tone seems to work, pitch has no effect and decay actually makes the pitch of the constant tone change.. even stranger, at VERY low decay setting, i get almost a bell sort of sound, anything higher and its straight oscillation.. halp!


Sorry you're having problems - troubleshooting can be super frustrating!

Most problems boil down to a cold solder joint, backwards part, faulty wiring, or a short on the board.

Look at everything in good light with a magnifying glass - make sure all your via's are clear, all your leads have good looking solder connections - and triple check all your cap, transistor and chip orientations!
jamesbernardmusic
Any chance you still have a eurorack panel for this?

Just finished building mine the other day.. And she needs a proper panel.
julian wrote:
Im almost out of these -








...and am wondering if anyone would be interested in some 5u panels with the same sort of design, at around GBP 25 each?

Thank you,
Julian

The Beast UK Ltd
www.thebeast.co.uk
bananeurysm
I'll be shipping outstanding orders on tuesday - thanks for being patient while I was on vacation!

Also - a fellow builder posted this amazing quote on facebook the other day re: the build. Figured I'd share!

algo
Grabbed myself one of these for my EuroRack. Looks great!
Jonachi
Got mine built, but can't figure out how to mount this tiny pcb to Julians panel. Bought universal mounts from MFOS but they are a lot bigger than expected and thus too large. Anyone has suggestions?
analogdata
Jonachi:
instructions for diy pcb mounts: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-ugh8sbHw4
demian
Is there a simple way to mod this pcb so that you can have two leds, one which indicates de out level, and one which indicates accent level?

It's not important, but my panel has two holes where a led fits in and i like to use them in a functional way.
woodster
I also have this pcb and the 808 panel from the Beast.
I don't think it's mounted per se, more a floater.
Haven't built mine yet though.
Jonachi
analogdata wrote:
Jonachi:
instructions for diy pcb mounts: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-ugh8sbHw4


yeah, been looking hard for that material but can't find it over here.
demian
i use this : http://www.ebay.nl/itm/Alu-blech-AL-99-5-Aluminiumblech-halbhart-200-x -200-x-0-5-mm-/261251405395
mome rath
hooray

finished this and it works
Guinness ftw!
nihilist
hi there. just ordered this.,
Seems the mouser BOM is missing
-Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 220ohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt
-Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 42.2Kohms 1% Rated to 1/2watt

Anyone have extras of these???
demian
I have put 2 resistors of 22k and 20k in series to make 42k
220 Ohm may also be 1% and 1/4 watt which you can find anywere or you may have it already.
Jonachi
Finally finished mine yesterday. Plugged it in, made some clicks and then vent completely silent. Checked polarity and did some measuring, the IC get's really wierd voltages, seems like it is not powering correctly. Any ideas what to do?
Neutron7
I just ordered. If anyone else is undecided, hurry up and make up your mind, there is only one left!
Jonachi
Got mine powered up. Doest gate at all but sounds like a base osc. Sound is kinda vague. Anyone know where to start troubleshootin'?
Jonachi
anyone?
aladan
PCB still on the backlog for me, sorry :(
mckenic
Its been awhile but I remember tying gate to the positive rail (would that be right?) so I could just use Trigger...

Might be an idea to try start there?
Barcode
mckenic wrote:
Its been awhile but I remember tying gate to the positive rail (would that be right?) so I could just use Trigger...

Might be an idea to try start there?


Do you mean accent? With the 808 no voltage to the accent means no sounds. I just tied the trigger in to the switch on my accent jack. It works well.
mckenic
Im sorry YES! I think thats it! Sorry!
yan6
I hope to see my board soon, I placed an order on Nov 21 and never received notice that it shipped. I also sent a pm but with no response. I don't mean to nag but don't want to miss out on this one!!!
elmegil
mckenic wrote:
Im sorry YES! I think thats it! Sorry!


Don't apologize, the world seems split between those of us who normal the trigger to the accent and those who tie accent high. :-)
bananeurysm
I'm shipping the outstanding orders today. Sorry for the delay!

And sorry I'm out of stock.. honestly I'm trying to decide if I should do another run of this rev - or wait and finally rev it. (Which will involve a testing phase.)

hmmmmm
Morpher
I should be way more active on this forum..
Seems like I always miss nice deals like these waah
bananeurysm
Morpher wrote:
I should be way more active on this forum..
Seems like I always miss nice deals like these waah


I ordered another batch - no specific ETA yet, but you can have tindie notify you when they're back in stock if you want.
horstronic
bananeurysm wrote:
Morpher wrote:
I should be way more active on this forum..
Seems like I always miss nice deals like these waah


I ordered another batch - no specific ETA yet, but you can have tindie notify you when they're back in stock if you want.


Hhm, these seem to be pretty nice!
I might get one of the boards when they're available again!
peff


My final build. Voltage divider for the accent control, and a pitch modulation input passing through an attenuverter.
Jonachi
Nice! What panel is this. Mine is still not working very frustrating
yan6
what a great build, really nice job on the panel. I still have to build mine; would you mind sharing a drawing for the voltage divider and attenuverter.
Morpher
bananeurysm wrote:

I ordered another batch - no specific ETA yet, but you can have tindie notify you when they're back in stock if you want.


Nice! So I can already order the mouser BOM right? applause
soup
bananeurysm wrote:
honestly I'm trying to decide if I should do another run of this rev - or wait and finally rev it. (Which will involve a testing phase.)

hmmmmm


I'm really happy with the one I built but would eagerly build another if there were any added modulation possibilities.
peng
peff wrote:


My final build. Voltage divider for the accent control, and a pitch modulation input passing through an attenuverter.


I found you're video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veavIZQhimQ) and am really interested in you're mod.
Have you got some more details about it?

Do you think 1/V octave pitch would be possible, or is that asking too much?
Morpher
Yaaaaay they are back in stock!!!! I just ordered one! This is fun!
horstronic
Morpher wrote:
Yaaaaay they are back in stock!!!! I just ordered one! This is fun!


Me too nanners
bananeurysm
yep! smile
yan6
Hi there, I still have not received my pcb. I made my order on Nov 21 and didn't receive a ship notice until Dec 6 angry . Three weeks latter and I still do not have a pcb very frustrating I hope this can be resolved quickly.
dJ dAb
I believe I've scanned through most of the topic pages but couldn't find how to implement CV in over pitch (freq). What is the suggested method? If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Thanks - Sean
dJ dAb
btw, just completed this little puppy and it's sounding great! Started with the stock 47k decay resistor but switched to the suggested 42.2k and that's just what the Doctor ordered for a nice long boom (still has nice fast/short decay at full CCW still) Also, I simply ran an additional wire from trigger in to a switch jack for accent in.... works great alone w/ plenty of punch or plugged in, under external control. Probably should add a pull-up resistor or diode for protection?

Great job bananeurysm / JMEJ!!!

Jop
I know this is not the correct topic but wondering what the status is for the SDS3 clone. Will this one happen in 2014 (hopefully....). Topic on EM is not updated quite some time.

Thanks and best wishes for 2014!
Morpher
Mouser doesnt have all the part anymore sad banana
horstronic
Morpher wrote:
Mouser doesnt have all the part anymore sad banana


Are you talking about that two resistors? Just click on "similar product" and there you go.
bananeurysm
yan6 wrote:
Hi there, I still have not received my pcb. I made my order on Nov 21 and didn't receive a ship notice until Dec 6 angry . Three weeks latter and I still do not have a pcb very frustrating I hope this can be resolved quickly.


I'm assuming you're the person who contacted me via Tindie. I shipped you a second board - let me know when you get it safely!

In general I ship every 2-3 weeks - it's really as fast as I can get things out these days. Life/work/etc smile Often I'm able to ship a lot quicker - but it just depends.

All the current orders are going out today fyi everyone. Thanks for patience!
yan6
bananeurysm, it was me who contacted you through Tindie. Thanks for following through on the replacement and I will advise you once received.

Regards
Ryan
robot909
dJ dAb wrote:
I believe I've scanned through most of the topic pages but couldn't find how to implement CV in over pitch (freq). What is the suggested method? If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Thanks - Sean


I have been thinking about doing that as well. So far the options are using vactrols, JFET voltage controlled resistors and I think someone started a thread about using the LM13700 for this purpose too.
dJ dAb
Peff, might you have a schematic for us? btw, nice looking panel too!

peff wrote:


My final build. Voltage divider for the accent control, and a pitch modulation input passing through an attenuverter.
gwpt
robot909 wrote:
dJ dAb wrote:
I believe I've scanned through most of the topic pages but couldn't find how to implement CV in over pitch (freq). What is the suggested method? If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Thanks - Sean


I have been thinking about doing that as well. So far the options are using vactrols, JFET voltage controlled resistors and I think someone started a thread about using the LM13700 for this purpose too.


Hi,
I would be very interested in this too.
Was hoping to CV the Pitch, decay and tone.

I don't suppose you have an schematics for doing this?

Cheers
yan6
yan6 wrote:
bananeurysm, it was me who contacted you through Tindie. Thanks for following through on the replacement and I will advise you once received.

Regards
Ryan


I finally receive the replacement board you sent today.
tuanuibi
Is the link down now / out of stock for good?
Luap
tuanuibi wrote:
Is the link down now / out of stock for good?


https://www.tindie.com/products/jmej/808-kick-drum-clone-pcb/
Morbid
bananeurysm wrote:
Emalot wrote:
In my 808 BD, the Freq Pot do nothing before middle. i have to change value?
I use 100K log.


100k log is the correct value for the frequency pot.. not sure what's going on there. You might double check the value of the 5.9k resistors.. offhand I'm not sure where on the board the relevant one is (there are at least 2) - but you might as well check em both!

http://www.anestheticaudio.com/808bd_sc.jpg


Same problem here.
Check the 5.9k resistors and get around 5.85k.
Everything else works just fine.
So what could it be?
seriously, i just don't get it
money bags
Luap wrote:
tuanuibi wrote:
Is the link down now / out of stock for good?


https://www.tindie.com/products/jmej/808-kick-drum-clone-pcb/


i would like to know to
fivefathom
Hi there,

Thanks for all the great info here! This might be a silly question (this is not my fore) but is the Tone adjustment here acting as a voltage divider for the power supply? I'm curious about setting up something that let's me vary the "meat" of the kick like ringroad1's excellent examples of a 9V vs 15V power supply. I imagine this is being done in the board already but I thought I'd double check wink

[soundcloud url="http://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/40056869" iframe="true" /]

[soundcloud url="http://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/40056868" iframe="true" /]
ringroad1
fivefathom wrote:
vary the "meat"


Meat-varying would best be accomplished through the accent, I'd imagine, between 4 and 14v on the original 808, if I'm reading the service manual right. Can't honestly remember what I used for the accent on those recordings, presumably just 9v or 15v to get the maximum boom.

The tone pot just looks like it's part of an RC filter to me, not something that you could just fling voltage at for external control without a vactrol or FET or magic.
elmegil
ringroad1 wrote:
Meat-varying would best be accomplished through the accent, I'd imagine, between 4 and 14v on the original 808, if I'm reading the service manual right.


Yep.

ringroad1 wrote:

The tone pot just looks like it's part of an RC filter to me, not something that you could just fling voltage at for external control without a vactrol or FET or magic.


Exactly. The tone just adjusts a passive LPF.
fivefathom
Great thanks for your feedback. I'll post some pics if it looks/sounds up to snuff smile
yan6
I'm just in throws of building mine and wouldn't mind some shots of what you come up with
drip.feed
Lads, please help. I have been trying to get mine to work properly for the last three nights.

(I'm on 12V Euro)

My output level is very, VERY low when I only use the Trigger In. When I add the Accent In the level gets plenty loud, but all I hear are the Accent kicks (the Trigger kicks cease).

I am using Hex's mod: +12V power pin connected through a 100K resistor to the Accent Input lug. There is definitely +12V at the Accent In.

-- Only the Output jack is grounded (via one of the 3 ground pads).
-- My Trigger is a 7V pulse wave from an oscillator (narrowing the pulse width makes no difference).
-- My Accent is a 10V pulse from a Turing Machine expander.
-- If I swap the Accent and Trigger jacks (so my accent pulses go to Trigger In) I still get barely audible kicks.

Any ideas why my Trigger In results in barely audible kick drums? seriously, i just don't get it cry
falafelbiels
Why not ground all the jacks? It's good practice. Did you trigger the kick from a module running on the same power supply?
drip.feed
falafelbiels wrote:
Why not ground all the jacks? It's good practice. Did you trigger the kick from a module running on the same power supply?

I did to begin with. Then during my debugging I removed them all bar the output because other people in this thread with working modules haven't grounded the Trigger or Accent sockets. It hasn't made any audible difference. I'm grasping at straws.
elmegil
So the original 808 circuit worked a little backwards from what a lot of people assume. The trigger input originally was more of an enable input. The accent input is a variable voltage pulse, between 4 & 14V, and that was the pulse that made it fire--the accent pulse actually went to all the voices all the time, but only the ones enabled on a given step would fire.

most of the standalone voices have added a trigger conditioner to the trigger input, making it a real trigger response, and as long as there is power at accent at the same time as the trigger, it should work fine. In this kind of configuration the amount of accent is determined by the level on the accent side, which is still going to expect to be between 4 & 14V. It's not a case of one trigger gives one level and the other trigger gives a higher level--the two have to work in concert.

Just so I'm sure I understand: you have the accent input set up so that if there is no connection, the switch lug on the jack is tied to +12V via a 100K resistor?

And when you say "just the trigger pulse", that's with NOTHING plugged in on the accent jack, correct?

The way I wired mine was, I normalled accent to the trigger in--so a single pulse to trigger in fed both inputs and would give a nice boom. Then if I wanted the accent to vary, I could run a CV that tracked what level accent I wanted to that jack and override it. I have no idea what it would do if I gave it just an accent pulse....
drip.feed
elmegil wrote:
Just so I'm sure I understand: you have the accent input set up so that if there is no connection, the switch lug on the jack is tied to +12V via a 100K resistor?

Yes, exactly. That is what HexInverter suggested earlier in this thread because the Accent always needs a positive voltage for the circuit to work.

elmegil wrote:
And when you say "just the trigger pulse", that's with NOTHING plugged in on the accent jack, correct?

Yes. Only a pulse going into the Trigger socket. I can just about hear a little 808 drum if I crank up my mixer channel. If I then plug a pulse into the Accent socket (coinciding with, say, every other downbeat) I suddenly hear a nice, loud 808 kick, but only on the Accent beats. There are no unaccented beats anymore, not even really, really quiet ones.

elmegil wrote:
The way I wired mine was, I normalled accent to the trigger in--so a single pulse to trigger in fed both inputs and would give a nice boom. Then if I wanted the accent to vary, I could run a CV that tracked what level accent I wanted to that jack and override it. I have no idea what it would do if I gave it just an accent pulse....

I tried that too. I removed the +12V to the Accent In switch lug. Then soldered a diode between the Trigger In lug and the Accent In switch lug (normalizing the Accent In). This results in big beatz from just my Trigger In, same as it does on yours. But, if I break the normalization by plugging a CV override into the Accent socket, I only hear the beats that coincide with Trigger + Accent; the unaccented Trigger beats vanish again. It is almost like I have my Acc and Trig pads soldered to the wrong jacks (but they aren't!).

elmegil wrote:
It's not a case of one trigger gives one level and the other trigger gives a higher level--the two have to work in concert.

Is my brain back to front then? hmmm..... I assumed, with this module, I could feed it a Trigger and get kicks. Then I could plug a CV into the Accent and get louder beats when the Accent beat coincides with the Trigger beat. No?

This is how I thought the module should work: with just a pulse at the Trigger socket you should hear a loud kick as if a trigger and accent were happening at the same time. When you send pulses to both the Trigger and Accent sockets you should hear quieter (but still audible!) kicks where the trigger pulses fall, and loud kicks when the accent pulses coincide with trigger pulses, like you would expect on a drum machine.

Hopefully this awesome ASCII art makes sense:

Code:

  _    _
_| |__| |_ ---> | TRIG +---->
                |      |         "BOOM BOOM"
                |      V
                |  ACC +---->   

               
  _    _
_| |__| |_ ---> | TRIG +---->
                |                "boom BOOM"
  _             |
_| |_ --------> |  ACC +---->
 

falafelbiels
My thoughts: this is a pretty one on one clone of a part of a schematic taken from an excellent drum machine. Take out the sequencer and you take out a bit of context. The circuit could well do with a bit of extra circuitry for making it communicate with the world somewhat better.


Edit: That being said, once you get it going it BOOOOOOOOMs really nicely.
falafelbiels
drip.feed


Have you actually measured 12v at the acc in pad with no jack in the accent input?
drip.feed
falafelbiels wrote:
drip.feed Have you actually measured 12v at the acc in pad with no jack in the accent input?

Yes. There is definitely 12V at the Accent pad when no jack is plugged into the Accent socket.
elmegil
drip.feed wrote:
elmegil wrote:
Just so I'm sure I understand: you have the accent input set up so that if there is no connection, the switch lug on the jack is tied to +12V via a 100K resistor?

Yes, exactly. That is what HexInverter suggested earlier in this thread because the Accent always needs a positive voltage for the circuit to work.

elmegil wrote:
And when you say "just the trigger pulse", that's with NOTHING plugged in on the accent jack, correct?

Yes. Only a pulse going into the Trigger socket. I can just about hear a little 808 drum if I crank up my mixer channel. If I then plug a pulse into the Accent socket (coinciding with, say, every other downbeat) I suddenly hear a nice, loud 808 kick, but only on the Accent beats. There are no unaccented beats anymore, not even really, really quiet ones.


That sure sounds like that pull up is not doing its job.. As for when you have something plugged in, that doesn't surprise me at all--the pull up is no longer doing anything and when there's no signal on the accent, it's down at ground and not going to supply the needed power for even a minimal thump. Has to be 4V absolute minimum to get anything decent out. Any way you can do a DC sum of the accent pulse to a steady offset voltage?



drip.feed wrote:

elmegil wrote:
The way I wired mine was, I normalled accent to the trigger in--so a single pulse to trigger in fed both inputs and would give a nice boom. Then if I wanted the accent to vary, I could run a CV that tracked what level accent I wanted to that jack and override it. I have no idea what it would do if I gave it just an accent pulse....

I tried that too. I removed the +12V to the Accent In switch lug. Then soldered a diode between the Trigger In lug and the Accent In switch lug (normalizing the Accent In). This results in big beatz from just my Trigger In, same as it does on yours. But, if I break the normalization by plugging a CV override into the Accent socket, I only hear the beats that coincide with Trigger + Accent; the unaccented Trigger beats vanish again. It is almost like I have my Acc and Trig pads soldered to the wrong jacks (but they aren't!).


Actually that's how it is expected to work.

drip.feed wrote:

elmegil wrote:
It's not a case of one trigger gives one level and the other trigger gives a higher level--the two have to work in concert.

Is my brain back to front then? hmmm..... I assumed, with this module, I could feed it a Trigger and get kicks. Then I could plug a CV into the Accent and get louder beats when the Accent beat coincides with the Trigger beat. No?


It's a CV, not a pulse or gate or enable. Has to be between 4V and 14V to provide needed power into the circuit.

drip.feed wrote:

This is how I thought the module should work: with just a pulse at the Trigger socket you should hear a loud kick as if a trigger and accent were happening at the same time. When you send pulses to both the Trigger and Accent sockets you should hear quieter (but still audible!) kicks where the trigger pulses fall, and loud kicks when the accent pulses coincide with trigger pulses, like you would expect on a drum machine.

Hopefully this awesome ASCII art makes sense:


It does make sense, but that's not how it works confused

I've added a diagram from the svc manual of the thing I'm talking about. The upper pulse train is the "common trigger" which goes to all voices, and is absolutely required for any 808 voice to fire. The lower pulse is the "voice enable" I referred to--just a digital output so that voice X will fire when the common trigger arrives. The common trigger is variable; at the lowest accent setting it still generates a 4V pulse.

To get the kind of behavior you want, I would think you'd either need the DC offset as I mentioned, or you'd need a steady (but varying) CV, such as from a sequencer, rather than a pulse, into the accent input.

To get it to work without anything into the Accent, and without doing the trigger normalled to the accent (in other words, the hex method ;-) ) you'll need to figure out why that pull up doesn't seem to be working. That ought to be perfect. You say you've measured 12V at the accent pad when its not plugged in....maybe 100K is too much for the pull up?

I've also attached the segment of the circuit from the svc manual.

The accent in is providing the power to turn on the second transistor. You might measure the voltage at the base of that guy with a scope when you have the constant accent and hit the trigger--100K + 5K + 10K divider might not be providing enough voltage at the base to turn that guy on. When you have something plugged into the jack, you are going directly to the 5K, so you will get a higher pulse there.

I'd suggest trying a 10K or 1K for that pull up.
drip.feed
elmegil wrote:
The upper pulse train is the "common trigger" which goes to all voices, and is absolutely required for any 808 voice to fire. The lower pulse is the "voice enable" I referred to--just a digital output so that voice X will fire when the common trigger arrives. The common trigger is variable; at the lowest accent setting it still generates a 4V pulse.

Waitaminnit. So I have this all wrong?

Assume I abandon Hex's pull-up and go back to tying the Accent switch lug to the Trigger signal lug.

Are you saying then, that on this module the Trigger socket is the "common trigger" and the Accent socket is the "voice enable"? And therefore if I want to add an accent to a single beat I just increase the voltage of the Trigger for that beat?

So if I want THUMP thump THUMP thump:

Code:

TRIGGER IN:  10V   7V    10V   7V
 ACCENT IN: pulse pulse pulse pulse
elmegil
drip.feed wrote:
elmegil wrote:
The upper pulse train is the "common trigger" which goes to all voices, and is absolutely required for any 808 voice to fire. The lower pulse is the "voice enable" I referred to--just a digital output so that voice X will fire when the common trigger arrives. The common trigger is variable; at the lowest accent setting it still generates a 4V pulse.

Waitaminnit. So I have this all wrong?

Assume I abandon Hex's pull-up and go back to tying the Accent switch lug to the Trigger signal lug.

Are you saying then, that on this module the Trigger socket is the "common trigger" and the Accent socket is the "voice enable"? And therefore if I want to add an accent to a single beat I just increase the voltage of the Trigger for that beat?

So if I want THUMP thump THUMP thump:

Code:

TRIGGER IN:  10V   7V    10V   7V
 ACCENT IN: pulse pulse pulse pulse


Nope. "Accent in" is the common trigger, and Trigger in is "voice enable".

Reverse your labels, and you have it right though.

I think the confusion here is the way the voice has been extracted from its original context. Everyone who has created an individual voice has called the "instrument data" input the trigger and the other input the accent. And in terms of real functionality, that's correct, but....


The more I think about it, btw, the more I'm sure you just need to reduce that pull up resistor to get trigger alone to work (unless you're happy with the diode to accent solution).


EDIT for clarity: the trigger in really IS a trigger, and particularly on the standalone voice PCBs I've seen it's usually got a trigger conditioner on it. You need a pulse on that pin to fire the voice, but you also need a minimum 4V on accent in for it to fire., and enough of that 4V has to make it to the base of the second transistor for IT to fire. With a 100K pull up most of your 12V is going to be across the 100K rather than the 10K, where you need to have enough voltage to turn on that transistor.
drip.feed
Thanks elmegil. That makes a lot more sense. If the inputs had been labelled Clock and Beat or something it would have made a lot more sense.

Hopefully I will get a chance to try that tonight, maybe tomorrow.
drip.feed
I finally got another chance to look at my module.

When I clocked the Trigger In while feeding beat events to the Accent In the damn thing came to life. Many, many thanks to elmegil for opening my eyes.

So then I soldered a 100K trimpot where the pull-up resistor should be and went back to a Trigger-only input.

Sure enough, when I dialed down the resistance the module started to work as expected.

But there is something wrong with it tonally: I can't dial in a resistance where the kicks sound as good as they do when I omit the pull-up and it is virtually impossible to distinguish between ordinary and accented beats (I'm mixing 7V and 10V triggers through a DC mixer). Also, at 0 Ohms the kicks sound loud enough but have a ludicrous 'click' on the attack. When I dial down the resistance the daft click diminishes but so does the overall volume! Maybe in a 15V system this pull-up hack would work a lot better.

So I guess I will choose the 2-input drum module for now unless more bright ideas surface hereabouts.

EDIT: here's the little blighter. It's working great now that I have normalized the Accent to the Trigger. I mix loud and quiet beats through a DC mixer upstream of the Accent socket.


elmegil
drip.feed wrote:
Many, many thanks to elmegil for opening my eyes.


Quite welcome 8_) thumbs up
drip.feed
I'm taking the liberty of posting the exact BOM I used in case it is useful for anyone as noob as me in the future. It is a bit handier than going through the Mouser project posted earlier in this thread.


JMEJ 808 BD BOM

Resistors (1%, 1/4W)
1 x 220 Ohms
1 x 1K
1 x 2.7K
2 x 4.7K
2 x 5.9K
1 x 8.2K
3 x 10K
3 x 22K
1 x 42.2K
1 x 47K
1 x 82K
5 x 100K
1 x 470K
3 x 1M

Capacitors (16V or better)
1 x 220pF Ceramic Disc
3 x 0.015uF MLCC
1 x 0.033uF MLCC
3 x 0.1uF MLCC
2 x 0.47uF Electrolytic
1 x 1.0uF Electrolytic
2 x 47uF Electrolytic
1 x 33uF Electrolytic

Transistors
1 x BC556 PNP (TO-92-3)
5 x BC546 NPN (TO-92-3)

Op-Amps
1 x TL072P (DIP-8)

Diodes
1 x 1N914
2 x 1N4148

Potentiometers (16mm Alpha, solder lug type)
1 x 100K Logarithmic (Freq)
1 x 500K Linear (Decay)
1 x 100K Linear (Level)
1 x 10K Logarithmic (Tone)

Jack Sockets (solder lug type)
3 x 3.5mm

PCB Mounting
2 x M3 hex stand-offs or similar
2 x M3 Ettinger 14.86.313 mounting brackets or similar
falafelbiels
This is the circuit I have used to get my 808 snare clone going. I bet it works just as fine on the kick. I know it works on the hihat which I also cloned.



Trigger and accent signals are applied to comparators. The output of these is AND gated by the NPN transistors. The output of this AND gate is "mixed" with a "unaccented level" voltage determined by the voltage divider setup consisting of the 100k pot and two 10k resistors. The 10k between the pot and 12v is needed in the snare to not have the noise ringing constantly. 12v on the accent input causes the noise VCA to never shut up, 10,5v or something like that makes it hush nicely. Maybe this would also make the kick not sound when the decay is turned all the way up.
I'm planning to make some PCBs for this cicruit and a 808 kick of my own. Since I like the panelcomponent PCB approach for my own projects, I may make it so it can easily be combined with Jesse's kick PCB.

I hope to make it look something like this snare:

elmegil
Here's the version I am using with a box containing several of the voices, this is intended for the actual clock to go into the trigger in, with the accent gate to determine whether it's a "boom" or a "BOOM".
falafelbiels
Commontrigger represents the trigger/ accent bus in the tr808 I presume?

Edit: I gedit.

But that would make sense in a box containing several voices and a sequencer like you made, right? Not so much suitable for seperate modules because the clcock would have to be patched into each, wrong?
Solid circuit though I reckon, sure to get the job done in a full drummachine.
elmegil
falafelbiels wrote:
Commontrigger represents the trigger/ accent bus in the tr808 I presume?

Edit: I gedit.

But that would make sense in a box containing several voices and a sequencer like you made, right? Not so much suitable for seperate modules because the clcock would have to be patched into each, wrong?
Solid circuit though I reckon, sure to get the job done in a full drummachine.


Yes that is true.

The overall goal is to just do the voice box, and then I can run it from any kind of trigger sequencer. That means I have to mult the clock from the sequencer into the voice box too though, as you say; since it's multiple voices in one, I don't have to have to reproduce the circuit each time or have a ridiculous chain of mults.
falafelbiels
I have Fritzed a panel component board tonight for the 808 kick clone I want to build. This board would hold the circuitry I drew above, plus the jacks and pots for pitch, tone and decay. I don't care for adding a level pot, I mix with a mixer and it would only make the panel large or cluttered.
I would like to add two 3mm mounting holes for holding the Bananeurysm PCB on spacers, but I can't measure the distance between the holes necessary because I have built mine into a drummachine that I don't want to take apart.
Does somebody have dimensions for me please?
elmegil
It's not really easy to measure without unmounting and everything, but here is what I have with my gauge. I'm assuming being in europe you're interested in metric. Long dimension is about 55mm between hole centers, and the short dimension is 30mm.
falafelbiels
Thank you Elgemil. I guess The whole PCB is a bit wider than 3 cm then? I guess It will take angled spacers to properly fit it all behind a 6hp panel. If such things even exist, I know there's hinged ones at least so...
elmegil
The PCB dimensions are 6cm by 3.5cm. I have no idea about mounting in Euro land though, I'm a 5U guy for the most part.
falafelbiels
Well you know, it's basically the same thing but smaller w00t
drip.feed
falafelbiels wrote:
Thank you Elgemil. I guess The whole PCB is a bit wider than 3 cm then? I guess It will take angled spacers to properly fit it all behind a 6hp panel. If such things even exist, I know there's hinged ones at least so...

I used two standoffs with a couple of mini L-shaped Ettinger brackets to hold my board perpendicular to the panel.

http://www.newark.com/ettinger/14-86-313/mounting-bracket-steel-enclos ures/dp/59M4493
falafelbiels
There you go, thanks Drippy!
drip.feed
falafelbiels wrote:
There you go, thanks Drippy!

No probs.

Be aware though, that the little PCB has electronics right up to the edge. When mounting with those mini-L-brackets you will need insulation between the board and the bracket or you will probably short a couple of connections. I used nylon washers and old bits of plastic with holes melted through with my soldering iron.

See the nylon washer on the front of the PCB and a rectangular plastic shim on the back of the pcb?

falafelbiels
Well, actually I am planning on doing my own complete 808 kick board sets. I just want to make it an option for bananeurysm board users to use a panel component board (and possibly panels) for easy completion of the project. My bet is a lot of boards are laying around unstuffed because mounting them is kind of hard, which would be a shame...
yan6
Hi all, I'm just trying to get mine up and running. I have the same low volume issues as, presumably the rest of the eurorack users. My main concern right now is the accent. I have normalized the accent jack to the trigger but when there is nothing inserted into the accent jack I get a click and then a boom, It sounds like a bad dj mix. If I plug an accent into the jack everything seems normal; any ideas on this?
elmegil
yan6 wrote:
Hi all, I'm just trying to get mine up and running. I have the same low volume issues as, presumably the rest of the eurorack users. My main concern right now is the accent. I have normalized the accent jack to the trigger but when there is nothing inserted into the accent jack I get a click and then a boom, It sounds like a bad dj mix. If I plug an accent into the jack everything seems normal; any ideas on this?


What's the voltage on your trigger? In other words is it a 5V trigger or a 10V trigger? If it's 5V you might want to try 10V if you have something that will generate that....
yan6
Interesting; so I was triggering it with a HexInverter SymSEQ, that was set to 5V so I changed the jumpers to 10v but it didn't make a difference. I tried it with Turing machine pulses and it seems to work fine. Can someone explain what might cause this, would it be the pulse width?
elmegil
yan6 wrote:
Interesting; so I was triggering it with a HexInverter SymSEQ, that was set to 5V so I changed the jumpers to 10v but it didn't make a difference. I tried it with Turing machine pulses and it seems to work fine. Can someone explain what might cause this, would it be the pulse width?


The pulse width spec on the original was 1ms, and it seems unlikely that Hex's stuff has a pulse width narrower than that.... If you've got a scope it might be good to measure and compare the two though.
gwpt
I've made a "motherboard" for this PCB with CV control of all the functions etc.

You can see pics, sounds etc at: https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=107527

smile
dJ dAb
Nice ^
dJ dAb
I picked up some Silonex NSL-32 Opto couplers and have had some successful testing. I simply hooked up the LED side to a jack and the photocell side to the freq pot, in parallel and I've now got cv over pitch but the sweet spot is only between 1.4V and 1.7V. For now I'm using a external mixer processor and getting excellent results! A couple resistor/voltage divider circuits, some voltage summing and done?

nanners

btw, I triggering mine with a SympleSEQ and sweeping pitch too.
dJ dAb
I just went with Ken Stone's LED driver circuit board with Silonex NSL-32 Opto couplers (instead of LEDs) to achieve CV pitch. Getting a lot better range. Voltage window now 0.5V to 4.5V.
http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgsld.html

fresh diggy
Hi y'all!

I built a non modular version of this circuit with the pcb and it works very well! Very happy!

[/img]


One thing tho, i wish i could get a bigger pitch range. I use the pot value recomended. Anybody have any idea on how to get lower and if possible higher also? But lower is more important for me.

Thanks peeps!
dJ dAb
Pretty sweet!
bananeurysm
I haven't experimented with this - but the first thing I would try is different pot values for the tuning pot. It just sits in place of a tuning resistor that was in the factory schematic. I believe the original resistor was 47k.


fresh diggy wrote:
Hi y'all!

I built a non modular version of this circuit with the pcb and it works very well! Very happy!

[/img]


One thing tho, i wish i could get a bigger pitch range. I use the pot value recomended. Anybody have any idea on how to get lower and if possible higher also? But lower is more important for me.

Thanks peeps!
fresh diggy
[quoteI] i haven't experimented with this - but the first thing I would try is different pot values for the tuning pot. It just sits in place of a tuning resistor that was in the factory schematic. I believe the original resistor was 47k. [/quote]

Thanks man. i'll try to put a 300k pot i have in place of the 100k when get a chance see if i can get a lower pitch.

Only thing i'm worried about tho, i don't understand the circuit enough to know this but do you guys think a bigger resistance would lower tge pitch or raise it?

(I'm re-attaching my picture as it seems to hace vanished sorry)
Heavy Metal Kid
You'll probably want to pitch both up and down from the original, so then you'll need a potentiometer that is higher than 47k on the on side and lower than 47k (ie zero unless you have another resistor in series) on the other side.

I can't remember what I ended up with when I build one on stripboard last year, I just probed and tested here and there. I got a pitch range from really deep bass to high pitched tom sounds. Good results!
fresh diggy
Thanks guys.

@heavy metal kid , i'm not sure i understand. You mean replacing the 47k pitch resistor with a pot on the original schematic?

Here's jmejia's schematic for his circuit: http://www.anestheticaudio.com/files/gimgs/13_1043_808bs_sc_2.jpg

The frequency potentiometer is the 100k pot in series with a 5k9 resistor,
So maybe reducing the 5k9 and augmenting the 100k to 300k-500k would do the trick?

Thanks for your input
elmegil
I have this PCB and have done a lot of digging into the original circuits.... Mine goes from very very low to medium tom, just with the 100k as posted.

The low end is at the highest value of the pot, so a larger pot will help you go lower, but not higher.

Lowering the 5.9k might make it go higher if you need, you'd have to experiment to see....
fudog
So when you going to ship out my PCB... I ordered 8 days ago and tindie is still saying "not shipped yet"

seriously, i just don't get it
djjohnmcgrath
if anyone can link me to a comprehensive build explanation id be very appreciative.
julian
Just a quick note -

When i made the euro panels for these, i made some other related bits, eg -




[img]http://thebeast.co.uk/?product=euro-808-bass-drum-clone[/img]


I located them this morning, and have added them to the 'shop' here -

http://thebeast.co.uk/?product_cat=panels

These are all 1-off's and i very much doubt i will make copies.
c1t1zen
I just ordered two. So easy...liking this Tindie setup.

I'm actually making one for a friend who is a total bass head. applause
soup
c1t1zen wrote:
I just ordered two. So easy...liking this Tindie setup.

I'm actually making one for a friend who is a total bass head. applause


I need to build another one, I use this all the time SlayerBadger!
c1t1zen
Starting this build tomorrow. wish me luck. I'm planning one euro-crack module and another as a tabletop box. So cool to see examples of both on the forums already as inspiration.
electricsheep
Sorry to be asking for assistance (rather than contributing to innovation!) but I can't figure this out.

I have soldered as per the schematic and diagram and am powering the board with 2 9V batteries.

I am triggering from the output of an MPC2000XL.

The output is very quiet (mixer up to +10 to hear clearly) and the tone, decay and frequency don't appear to be making a difference.

I've included loads of photos (whoops) and would be dead grateful if some kind soul could scrutinize them (the board was purchased from Tindie and the parts from the Mouser BOM list).

Thanks in advance!


[/img]











































elmegil
It's meant to be powered from +/- 15V so I'm not surprised that less than 2/3 of the supply would be quiet.....
drip.feed
electricsheep, if the problem is what I think it is then this behaviour is common with this module. It is borne out of a misunderstanding how the Trigger and Accent parts of the circuit work.

Try this: solder a diode from the Trigger tip lug to the Accent switch lug. The diode polarity should be in the direction of the Accent jack.



Then ignore the Accent jack for evermore. If you want to add accents to your kicks then use a CV mixer upstream of the Trigger jack.

Also, when you come to mount this PCB on standoffs make sure you use plastic washers: some pcb circuitry is right up beside the mounting holes.
electricsheep
Ah, thanks for the quick replies.

Any specifics on the diode?

I thought 2 x 9v was OK as a power supply.

Any advice on what to produce on the mpc2000xl to trigger? As a test, can I just tie a wire in to the positive on the supply and bring it to the trigger +?
elmegil
The diode looks like a standard small-signal diode, 1N4148 or 1N914.

He's got a good point, that's probably *more* likely to be your problem than the low supply, so you could do that and test to see if it's good enough at 9V.

When running on 15V, the expected trigger range is from 4V to 14V. I would say at a 9V supply you probably want 2-8V; I don't know of anything that normally generates <5V triggers though, so unless you're generating 10V triggers you should be fine.
soup
When I first built this I just tied the accent to positive voltage and powered it with 2 9V batteries and it worked great. Batteries will die really quick if you leave them connected but they can easily power a thumping 808 kick.
drip.feed
electricsheep wrote:
Ah, thanks for the quick replies.

Any specifics on the diode?

It's just a 4148 or something to ensure current only flows from the Trigger to the Accent. Nothing fancy.

electricsheep wrote:
I thought 2 x 9v was OK as a power supply.

Any advice on what to produce on the mpc2000xl to trigger? As a test, can I just tie a wire in to the positive on the supply and bring it to the trigger +?

That should work. I just use a square wave from an LFO or a Gate signal from a midi to cv module.
electricsheep
Amazing - thanks for all the advice. I'll get on it this week and post the outcome. Did the pots and jacks look correct?
electricsheep
Amazing - thanks for all the advice. I'll get on it this week and post the outcome. Did the pots and jacks look correct?
drip.feed
electricsheep wrote:
Amazing - thanks for all the advice. I'll get on it this week and post the outcome. Did the pots and jacks look correct?

Well here is my module, close up.


electricsheep
brilliant! Thanks! Will check over tonight
qfactor
Pardon me, electricsheep, although your photos were not too clear, but isn't your TL072 IC chip soldered backwards? The "groove" of the IC should be facing the edge of the PCB?
Sorry if it already is, as I couldn't quite make out the image, but you could reference drip_feed's images on his IC. This was correctly oriented. thumbs up

Edit: on second thoughts, after looking at more of your images, I think the IC is correctly oriented. Sorry about that! d'oh!
EMwhite
Dripfeed, I see that you are both the master of colored wire AND shrink wrap tubing... well done.

I used twisted picture hooks as standoffs on mine, not quite as fancy hihi
bananeurysm
drip.feed wrote:
electricsheep, if the problem is what I think it is then this behaviour is common with this module. It is borne out of a misunderstanding how the Trigger and Accent parts of the circuit work.


Yeah if you aren't supplying a voltage to the accent jack - you will get no kick. The accent jack can be useful for example - you might feed it sequential voltages to program accents. But if you're not doing something like that - you'll need give it voltage some other way. Tie'ing the trigger like that should work. Or you can simply jump the accent in to the + side of your power supply if you think you don't need/want accent.

You might think of the Accent jack as sort of a VCA that is normally closed unless it's receiving voltage.
bananeurysm
qfactor wrote:
Pardon me, electricsheep, although your photos were not too clear, but isn't your TL072 IC chip soldered backwards? The "groove" of the IC should be facing the edge of the PCB?
Sorry if it already is, as I couldn't quite make out the image, but you could reference drip_feed's images on his IC. This was correctly oriented. thumbs up

Edit: on second thoughts, after looking at more of your images, I think the IC is correctly oriented. Sorry about that! d'oh!


I really can't tell from those photos - double check the ic's orientation for sure!
electricsheep
Ah, balls, those pictures looked a lot clearer before I uploaded them.

Again, I've taken a few in a hurry, sorry: they're over-exposed but show the important detail. Will take the time to properly capture it on a day off.

My chip doesn't have a groove (ordered from Mouser...) - I've taken a few pictures to illustrate this. Which way should it be?
[img]






[/img]
elmegil
It looks like it has a dot next to pin 1. Some chips have both, some have only one or the other. Given that, I do believe you may have it in backwards.

Although, if you've powered it up, backwards should have blown the top like a firecracker (watch your eyes). If it *didn't* then .... that's a pretty weird looking chip.
electricsheep
It has been powered a few times and produces a very faint bleed from the input (perhaps, as stated, because there is no voltage to accent).

I got the diodes today and will solder one from supply to accent.

Might also tie in a button to trigger from supply (but for now, will just try touching the tip lug with a wire connected to the supply).

Any other thoughts on the orientation of this chip?

Thanks for all the support!
soup
electricsheep wrote:
Any other thoughts on the orientation of this chip?


Yours is backwards. The dot indicating pin 1 should be on the same side as the notch screenprinted on the pcb. Look at drip.feed's pictures for an example.
electricsheep
Is it likely to be OK to remove and rotate?
elmegil
Dosoldering can be a real pain, but it's entirely feasible to do. You need a vacuum pump and/or desoldering braid. I think you can get both at Radio Shack if you're in the states....

Vacuum pumps can be frustrating to work with, but desoldering braid can delaminate your PCB and create more problems, so it's kind of a six of one, half a dozen of the other.

if you have another one of the chips, it would probably be easier to just cut this one off and throw it away (if it's been powered backwards it may be dead anyway). Then you can heat the holes and pull the leg stubs out easily, and then desoldering braid or a vacuum pump will make quick work of cleaning the holes out so you can put another chip (or a socket) into place.
Royalston
Did anyone have a long wait for their PCBs?..I ordered 2 a month ago and I'm still waiting for them. I am in Australia, so Im used to a wait, but this is too long. Tindie has sent me an email asking how I enjoyed the project but I can't say its been great... I've sent an PM to the OP but no response.
horstronic
Royalston wrote:
Did anyone have a long wait for their PCBs?..I ordered 2 a month ago and I'm still waiting for them. I am in Australia, so Im used to a wait, but this is too long. Tindie has sent me an email asking how I enjoyed the project but I can't say its been great... I've sent an PM to the OP but no response.


I had to wait really long, too. I even forgot about it and then it magically appeared in my mail box some day Om
bananeurysm
Sorry guys! Life's crazy - your pcbs are on the way though. PM'd.
kokodrimpy
Hello

I've recently finished to solder my 808 clone board but it doesn't work!!!
very frustrating

Some stuff I think that could be the reason why it won't make any sound:

1.- I realized that I've used BC546B transistors instead of the BC546A that are printed on the board. I took a quick look at the data sheet and the seem almost the same. Is this an issue?

2.- Lucky for me I have access to a good oscilloscope. Following the trig signal (using arduino for this one) I see a strong 5V signal on the input. The level stays the same until the first (R1 22k), after this resistor it drops to ~0.5V. This goes through a BC546B transistor and after this i get something like an "inverted" signal which goes through the BC556 transistor and (R3 100k) the signal almost disappears. What goes into the opamp is almost only noise, although I can see somewhat like a pulse.

3.- Polarizations are fine as far as I can see (IC is polarized OK)

Any kind of help or hint will be highly appreciated.

Best regards!
elmegil
A vs B transistors should not matter much.

Are you feeding a signal of any sort to the accent input?
kokodrimpy
elmegil wrote:
A vs B transistors should not matter much.

Are you feeding a signal of any sort to the accent input?


Actually no,

Should I?

Can I just copy the same signal of the TRIG?
elmegil
kokodrimpy wrote:
elmegil wrote:
A vs B transistors should not matter much.

Are you feeding a signal of any sort to the accent input?


Actually no,

Should I?

Can I just copy the same signal of the TRIG?


The circuit won't work correctly without something on the accent input. What I have done with mine is connected the trig input to the switching lug on the accent input, and that works just fine in my experience. Some people do that with a diode, but I used a simple wire. Other folks have normalled or just connected the accent input to V+ from the PCB (would be 12V for Euro, it's 15V in my MOTM system), or used a pot wired as a voltage divider.

Using the switching lug lets you provide an independent accent signal if you so choose, you just plug something else into that jack.


In the original 808 circuit, what it called the trigger input was actually just a voice enable from the processor. The accent input of all the voices was constantly driven by a pulse ranging from 4V to 14V depending on how high the accent pot was set and whether there was accent on the given step. This was the system clock. Then the processor would enable whatever voices were active on that step.

For stand alone use this makes no sense, so the trigger input has been adapted to be a real trigger, down to having a trigger conditioner on the input. But without some signal on accent, nothing will work.
kokodrimpy
elmegil wrote:
kokodrimpy wrote:
elmegil wrote:
A vs B transistors should not matter much.

Are you feeding a signal of any sort to the accent input?


Actually no,

Should I?

Can I just copy the same signal of the TRIG?


The circuit won't work correctly without something on the accent input. What I have done with mine is connected the trig input to the switching lug on the accent input, and that works just fine in my experience. Some people do that with a diode, but I used a simple wire. Other folks have normalled or just connected the accent input to V+ from the PCB (would be 12V for Euro, it's 15V in my MOTM system), or used a pot wired as a voltage divider.

Using the switching lug lets you provide an independent accent signal if you so choose, you just plug something else into that jack.


In the original 808 circuit, what it called the trigger input was actually just a voice enable from the processor. The accent input of all the voices was constantly driven by a pulse ranging from 4V to 14V depending on how high the accent pot was set and whether there was accent on the given step. This was the system clock. Then the processor would enable whatever voices were active on that step.

For stand alone use this makes no sense, so the trigger input has been adapted to be a real trigger, down to having a trigger conditioner on the input. But without some signal on accent, nothing will work.


Thank you so much elmegil. Very clear explanation!
My 808 clone kicks!!!

SlayerBadger!

Some pictures of the wave output below...
elmegil
kokodrimpy wrote:
Thank you so much elmegil. Very clear explanation!


You're quite welcome, glad I could help smile
qp
Finally got around to finishing today. Happen to have a bunch of aluminum sheets laying around for an old project that never got finished so I took a stab at cutting the panel with my awesome dremel saw I got for xmas. Gravy! My hole drilling on the other hand sux.

I made a PCB that takes the 3 pin power header and gives it a 10pin ribbon header. Works great! If anyone is interested I can share the brd files. Cost $3.30 over at OSHpark. Should be a useful board for other projects as well.



ingiv
Greetings from Iceland!

I finished building my 808 and believe I have dotted all my "i's" and crossed my "t's" Still no BOOM out the other side. Been through the usual suspects ( reverse diodes, IC backwards etc...) very frustrating I get some static but no means of a triggered output. I have tried using a piezo, loud short audio sample, and +7V.
I am new to the DIY synth scene although I have been building electronics for quite some time now.

any bit of help would be appreciated.
qp
ingiv wrote:
Greetings from Iceland!

I finished building my 808 and believe I have dotted all my "i's" and crossed my "t's" Still no BOOM out the other side. Been through the usual suspects ( reverse diodes, IC backwards etc...) very frustrating I get some static but no means of a triggered output. I have tried using a piezo, loud short audio sample, and +7V.
I am new to the DIY synth scene although I have been building electronics for quite some time now.

any bit of help would be appreciated.


The Accent needs a CV source as well. On mine I have the accent wired to a switching jack normalled to 12v from the power connector. Works fine for me.
ingiv
qp wrote:
ingiv wrote:
Greetings from Iceland!

I finished building my 808 and believe I have dotted all my "i's" and crossed my "t's" Still no BOOM out the other side. Been through the usual suspects ( reverse diodes, IC backwards etc...) very frustrating I get some static but no means of a triggered output. I have tried using a piezo, loud short audio sample, and +7V.
I am new to the DIY synth scene although I have been building electronics for quite some time now.

any bit of help would be appreciated.


The Accent needs a CV source as well. On mine I have the accent wired to a switching jack normalled to 12v from the power connector. Works fine for me.


I have tried connecting the accent to +7v and +15V, with and without the diode. still no luck...
kires
qp wrote:

I made a PCB that takes the 3 pin power header and gives it a 10pin ribbon header. Works great! If anyone is interested I can share the brd files. Cost $3.30 over at OSHpark. Should be a useful board for other projects as well.


Interested. Would you mind sharing PCB files.
jazzmonster
Hi, when are you sending a new batch of PCBs? I ordered one a while ago and it is still unshipped on tindie. Thanks
Jackdamery
hey when will these be available again? any other 808 boards in the works? snare?
falafelbiels
Jackdamery


Sorry for the hijack, but I have made some 808 snare boards (currently in backorder) and some hihats too.

snare
Hihat
pcorvaia
Thanks for this great circuit. It was a relatively simple build, unless of course you want to go crazy and do something unique with the accent instead of just wiring it directly to the positive supply rail.

I just wanted to share my results so you can hear what mine sounds like with +/-9V and with the accent tied to the +9V.

[soundcloud url="https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/166498185" params="auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_use r=true&show_reposts=false&visual=true" width="100%" height="450" iframe="true" /]

I had trouble at first getting a good sound. I was using the Doepfer Dark Time to trigger, thinking that this would work fine. I did not get a good sound. I ended up using a bass square wave produced with Operator in Ableton. I was surprised that it work, and that it worked so well. I will explore more with the trigger input and post more samples if I get anything better sounding.

Now all I have to do is make the enclosure. I made a quick temporary panel for it.
Jop
Just finished this little circuit, works first try SlayerBadger!

I did experiment with the cap value of C1 and settled with 33nF instead of 100nf (powering from 12V). This makes the click sound much better and closer to the real deal.

Thanks Roglok for pointing this out thumbs up


Quote:
I'm running it off 12V and tried several values for the pulse conditioner cap (C1 in bananeurysm's layout) and found that 33nF works much better than 100nF. With 100nF the pulse is too wide and makes the Attack click sound weird. It's also appears too loud. With 1nF the circuit sometimes fails to make a sound when sending rapid triggers.

Both 33nF and 47nF yielded much better results - I ultimately settled on 33nF because I liked the click sound a little better than with 47nF...

YMMV but I think it's worth trying different values there... Especially if your BD sound doesn't feel spot on...
catchpenny
hey guys REALLY dumb question but when wiring the pots, on the pcb is it ground, in, out?
Jop
On drip.feed build pictures you can se clearly how to connect the pots to the pcb:

catchpenny
oh awesome, thanks!
Royalston
Ive just finished my first build of this - I get a good sound with two 9V batteries in series - but the output is very quiet - I needed heaps of amplification. Any hints as to why this might be or what I can do to fix it? (I have a 10V input as accent and that all works - overall its just quiet though....

Thanks
Jop
Experimented with different trigger signals yesterday.

First scenario was:

TR606 trigger (+14V/ 20ms) / accent tied to the trigger input with a diode. Nice punchy sound and good loudness.

Next was a Thomas Henry controller LFO trig output (I think around +5V and 1ms).
Punchiness disappeared and overall volume drops. To get back (almost) to the sound when triggered from the 606 I connected the +12 to the accent instead.

Royalston, what kind of trigger did you use and how did you wire the accent?
Royalston
My trigger was from an intellijel step (+5V). Accent voltage was provided by multing the trigger, and also from a +10V source. I have two 9V batteries in series.

Im getting a good sound - response from all knobs, but I needed about +50db gain from my sound card to get decent levels.... With only one 9V battery in there, the sound is even quieter. At first I thought the build had failed- I couldn't hear any sound...until I cranked the gain up.
Jop
I would do the following:

* Double check if wiring is correct and all critical comp. are correctly installed
* Test with 12 and or 15V
* Test with accent tide to the pos. power rail, so it's high all the time
* Replace op-amp

Good luck.
Royalston
Thanks Jop - will try all these today. most of my main components are socketed so I can adjust things a bit
c1t1zen


A bit cheesy with the hand painted enamal on black pcb panel. My next build will probably be a massively modded version. But I love having a kick in a patch so quickly, and then patching to the rhythm. Thanks for the BOOOM.
electricsheep
drip.feed
Hey man, thanks for your help with my build of Jesse's 808-BD circuit a few months back which I completed successfully and am just finishing yet another but for EURORACK integration.

I was wondering, with your ribbon connection, did you splice the end off the cable - and, if so, do you need to connect both wires for the +, both for the - and all six for the ground to the PCB?

Cheers man,

Si
Jackdamery
These have been sold out for a while. Will you do another run?
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