MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

[SOLD OUT] Euro panel for fonik's PS-3100 Resonators/X-fader
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author [SOLD OUT] Euro panel for fonik's PS-3100 Resonators/X-fader
negativspace


As of 10/01/2013, the panels are out of stock.

______________________________________________________________________ ________

The knobs for this one are 16mm, so you can use many of the popular ones. It's not for Davies clones, though. The ones I use are similar to Flame or Bubblesound's knobs and are available in the EU at Banzai Music ("Ribby" style) or at Mammoth Electronics in the USA. (Mammoth has them in colors, too, and they're super-high quality unlike the Davies clones they carry.)
______________________________________________________________________ ________


Order List (blue indicates paid, red indicates shipped)

negativspace [2]
mamonu [2]
mckenic [1]
janvanvolt [1]
dego [1]
astroscnautzer [2]
frozenkore [2]
samuraipizzacat29 [4]
zdarma [2]
limpmeat [1]
spotta [1]
mOBiTh [3]
demian [2]
reggiechacha [2]
ringstone [4]
rowman [2]
thetwlo [1]
regenbot [1]
Junk Rhythm [2]
keninverse [2]
ndkent [2]
far gon [2]
RSFC [1]
thanatronique [1]
wwall [2]
asterisk [1]
mono-poly [2]
hpsounds [1]
nangu [9]
synaptech [2] +1 xpander
mattrick [1]
NV [1]
iopop [1]
lazerkind [1]
ian-c [2]
mamonu
hell yes im interested... i m having this built with a friend....

so i would be interested in two...

whatever options you put in.... applause applause applause
mckenic
Yup! Me too please!

New to the PS-3100 so whatever options are decided are cool with me!
I'd take one please!

thumbs up
zomgw00t
negativspace wrote:
[img]
1) I'd like a global CV input - so I could replace the LFO with a signal which is applied to all 3 channels and responds to the 'CH 3 INVERT' switch. I think this can be done with a simple hack + a switching jack? I recall looking over the schematic and concluding that it could, but it's been a long while...


Couldn't all the CV inputs just be normalized with switching jacks?
mono-poly
Interested in panels
thanatronique
Really interested in a panel. I like the look you give to your module. I also like the one fonik did plus it has the pan fader on it. Do you plan on adding that? or is there and I 'm just not seeing it?

But I'll let the more experienced guys decide on the best options as long as it uses both boards.
Rod Serling Fan Club
I'm easy as is or w/suggested mods. You are also doing a panel for the x-fade-panner, yes?
janvanvolt
one panel for me please.
asterisk
id also like the see the pan/fader built into the PS-3100 like fonik has. i guess thats his DoubleTrouble version? the stereo version seems more interesting to me!

personally im not that interested in the onboard LFO (since i have plenty of LFOs and CV sources elsewhere in my system)
i do like the idea of normalized CV INPUT jacks 1->2->3 where something plugged into CV input 1 would control all 3.

are the DEPTH knobs just attenuators for the CV inputs? or is it something else? if they are attenuators, itd be nice to have those as attenuverters!

if the LFO is kept on there, id like to see the high/med/low range switch and the tri/ramp/saw wave select switch. those seem like easy mods according to fonik's pdfs.
Dego
I want panel for 3100 and panner This is fun!
Rod Serling Fan Club
negativspace wrote:


1) I'd like a global CV input - so I could replace the LFO with a signal which is applied to all 3 channels and responds to the 'CH 3 INVERT' switch. I think this can be done with a simple hack + a switching jack? I recall looking over the schematic and concluding that it could, but it's been a long while...

2) Input attenuator? LFO out? Mix control? No 'speed' switch?



Maybe, to reach goal 1, you should have an LFO output but not have the LFO normalled to the CV inputs. Then you could have the CV inputs normalled to eachother so whatever voltage source you put in the firsrt jack flows to the next unless it broken with a seperate cv input.
ringstone
Pretty happy with the panel as is, I would normal the LFO to the CV jacks. A global CV would be good but I like the panel symmetry, it's always possible to mult. And I prefer the crossfader on a separate panel, as planned.

Cheers
Blair
negativspace
Working some trickery with the jacks doesn't quite get me what I'm after... I want the invert switch on ch3 to invert the external signal as well as the internal. I believe it's possible to tap in between the LFO section's output and the distribution circuit to the 3 channels and have the CV input replace the LFO signal before going into the switch/inverter/etc. I think. Like I said, it's been nearly a year since I sat down and looked at doing that. I mostly just recall being convinced it could be done. oops

LFO Shape switch is something that could be cool... what if I replaced the LFO Speed switch with Shape, and we used an optional push-pull pot for LFO Rate giving us 2 switchable speeds? I suppose if it's going to be that kinda party we could use a push-pull on Ch3's Depth pot, making that the invert switch. Then we could add a jack by the LFO - either LFO out or Global CV in.

hmmm..... seriously, i just don't get it
ringstone
negativspace wrote:
Working some trickery with the jacks doesn't quite get me what I'm after... I want the invert switch on ch3 to invert the external signal as well as the internal. I believe it's possible to tap in between the LFO section's output and the distribution circuit to the 3 channels and have the CV input replace the LFO signal before going into the switch/inverter/etc. I think. Like I said, it's been nearly a year since I sat down and looked at doing that. I mostly just recall being convinced it could be done. oops

LFO Shape switch is something that could be cool... what if I replaced the LFO Speed switch with Shape, and we used an optional push-pull pot for LFO Rate giving us 2 switchable speeds? I suppose if it's going to be that kinda party we could use a push-pull on Ch3's Depth pot, making that the invert switch. Then we could add a jack by the LFO - either LFO out or Global CV in.

hmmm..... seriously, i just don't get it


The LFO invert is done just after the LFO out, it's right down in the bottom left corner of the circuit:

http://www.modular.fonik.de/pdf/PS3100_DT_v3.pdf

Then Fonik has normalled the LFO (including the switched normal/inverted for the third band) to each of the CV in sockets. It doesn't look there's a provision for a global CV or to switch between LFO/external CV before it gets to the invert circuit without cutting traces.

Cheers
Blair

EDIT +1 on the LFO shape though, I saw that just after I posted above.
EDIT AGAIN: I would probably use one of your voltage processors with this - direct out + 2 inverted versions would achieve much the same...
negativspace
ringstone wrote:

The LFO invert is done just after the LFO out, it's right down in the bottom left corner of the circuit:

http://www.modular.fonik.de/pdf/PS3100_DT_v3.pdf

Then Fonik has normalled the LFO (including the switched normal/inverted for the third band) to each of the CV in sockets. It doesn't look there's a provision for a global CV or to switch between LFO/external CV before it gets to the invert circuit without cutting traces.


Exactly right - but I'm willing to cut a trace to hack it in. It should just be a matter of cramming a switching jack between P5/R41 and R43, so that when a jack is plugged in the external signal goes into the inverter/normalling 'matrix' rather than the LFO. (Essentially in the same place as J4 in the schematic.) I've omitted the global LFO Depth control (P5) BTW, replacing it with one attenuator per channel, post-jack.
ringstone
Got it. It is possible without cutting any traces. There is an LFO depth control (on header P5), the LFO signal could be replaced there.

This is before the LFO out header though.

Cheers
Blair
negativspace
Yep, I suppose hacking it into the pads @ P5 is the perfect idea. Makes no sense to jumper that and then cut into a trace 1cm away. d'oh!
asterisk
are the depth controls just attenuators for the CV inputs? are they attenuverters?

is the internal LFO always going to the three filters/resonators or just only when there is nothing plugged into the CV jacks?
ringstone
negativspace wrote:
Yep, I suppose hacking it into the pads @ P5 is the perfect idea. Makes no sense to jumper that and then cut into a trace 1cm away. d'oh!


You probably worked all that out last time... hihi

If you still wanted LFO out you could normal the LFO (on pin 2 of P5) to the Global CV in jack switched terminal then stretch a 1k resistor across to the LFO out jack... Global CV in would go to P5 pin 3.

Cheers
Blair
negativspace
I don't know if I looked that hard at it, other than to see the spot in the schematic where I could work it. I'd already built mine at that point so it was purely an academic exercise. hihi

If we do want to go with an LFO out, I like your plan. I can't say I've missed that feature, but I'm open to the possibility.
ringstone
negativspace wrote:
I don't know if I looked that hard at it, other than to see the spot in the schematic where I could work it. I'd already built mine at that point so it was purely an academic exercise. hihi

If we do want to go with an LFO out, I like your plan. I can't say I've missed that feature, but I'm open to the possibility.


Well, LFO out is probably necessary if we are going with a separate crossfader module. Unless you intended cabling between the two modules with a ribbon cable or similar...?

Cheers
Blair
negativspace
I'll need to look at the x-fader again... Matthias didn't have those on hand when I bought my resonator boards so I never even gave it glance one. Dead Banana
rowman
Could you just normal CV1 to the LFO, then normal CV2 and CV3 to the CV1 jack? So then CV1 becomes the global CV input. LFO out would be good though, since I plan on using 2 of these in stereo.
lazerkind
Definitely interested in a resonator panel.
The global CV option sounds nice, although not a must have in my setup.
ringstone
rowman wrote:
Could you just normal CV1 to the LFO, then normal CV2 and CV3 to the CV1 jack? So then CV1 becomes the global CV input. LFO out would be good though, since I plan on using 2 of these in stereo.


Actually I think you mean "normal CV1 to the CV2 and CV3 jack socket" (as well as sending it to resonator 1)? Perhaps, but how does this simplify things? You lose the ability to invert the global CV to the 3rd resonator as well...

Cheers
Blair

EDIT: Oh, yes, you do lose one jack socket (Global CV). But you also lose the ability to selectively replace the LFO signal to just Resonator 1 (as well as the external CV invert).
rowman
ringstone wrote:
Oh, yes, you do lose one jack socket (Global CV). But you also lose the ability to selectively replace the LFO signal to just Resonator 1 (as well as the external CV invert).


Since the resonators are identical, if you want a combination of internal LFO and external CV just send the external CV to resonators 2 and 3.
Ideally the invert switch would function between resonator 3 and its jack, but this might need a kludge.
Attenuverters for depth would be cool too, if the board can accommodate it.
ringstone
rowman wrote:
ringstone wrote:
Oh, yes, you do lose one jack socket (Global CV). But you also lose the ability to selectively replace the LFO signal to just Resonator 1 (as well as the external CV invert).


Since the resonators are identical, if you want a combination of internal LFO and external CV just send the external CV to resonators 2 and 3.
Ideally the invert switch would function between resonator 3 and its jack, but this might need a kludge.
Attenuverters for depth would be cool too, if the board can accommodate it.


I'm still not sure what the advantage to doing it this way is, apart from losing one jack socket...?

Cheers
Blair
rowman
ringstone wrote:
I'm still not sure what the advantage to doing it this way is, apart from losing one jack socket...?

Cheers
Blair


Yeah, just to leave the panel as is. The symmetry of the panel is nice like you said before.
fonik
a few comments from my side.

first of all i have to admit that negativespace's front panel covers almost all functionality i wanted to see in a resonator if i built anotherone for me:
CV inputs normalled to theinternal LFO, speed range switch, invert switch, single outs (more on this later), and very important, the attenuators for ech CV input...
the only thing i am missing is an LFO output, but that's just me, because i am notorious short on LFOs, hehe.

if you want to isolate the inverting section, just lift up one end of R43. oyu could then connect anything you like to this input resistor...

remember that all sockets are off board, so how you normalize them is up to you. the headers just make it easy for beginners, you don't have to use them this way.

why single outs? in my last built i incorporated the x-pan/fader, therefor i normalized the single outs to the x-pan/faders input sockets. that's all. if you have single outputs you have much more freedom: use the x-pan/fader (module on its own), or FX/filters/VCAs different for each bandpass filter... you get the idea.

re common CV input. i had it this way in the 1st revision of this module, alas, i almost never used it. i love to insert one external CV source to control one of the BPFs in addition to the internal LFO (see demo vid on vimeo).

one last point: input attenuation could be useful if you have very hot VCOs like the thomas henry stuff (10Vpp).
ringstone
Thanks for your input Matthias!

I'm not overly concerned with the Global CV in, but as negativspace mentioned that he would like one, I felt utilising the now unused jack J5 (since I believe his panel design allows for individual level on each CV/LFO input) was an elegant solution.

I still feel the LFO out is indicated when used with the crossfader, in the "double trouble" I believe the LFO was wired between the main and the crossfader board?

Anyway, the important thing here is that everyone can wire these up as they see fit, we probably need to lock down whether we need these extra options (LFO out, Global CV). The quicker that's decided, the quicker negativspace can get to work on the panels... I'm really looking forward to getting this design up and running!

Cheers
Blair
Rod Serling Fan Club
Actually the LFO output seems too obvious. Kinda silly to have a whole LFO that you can only use internally. Particularly in light of using it with the seperate x-fade panel.
rowman
Maybe an extra jack on the panel that can be LFO out, global CV in, mix out, whatever. If you don't use it much, you can rewire it as something else hihi
negativspace
Indeed, thanks for the input Matthias and everyone else! Let me digest this for a little bit and then I'll get some new images up.
hpsounds
Hi Jason,

Looking forward with what you will end up. hyper

Hédi K.
astroschnautzer
I would be in for one or two panels...
frozenkore
I'm in for two full featured panels. I can finally put a panel in front of my stuffed pcb from the last run Dead Banana
samuraipizzacat29
watching (because I'm in for four)

thanks!
zdarma
I'm in for some panels when they are ready.
limpmeat
interested in 1
spotta
Up for 1 panel thumbs up
negativspace
I'm trying to get my head above water right now with the MA35 build, I may have a gap tomorrow where I've finally built enough that I have to wait on a parts shipment to progress further. (I'm out of power headers!)

If so I will take the time to get at least one option posted. thumbs up
mOBiTh
Can I order two panels please?!

Cheers!

Matt
mOBiTh
mOBiTh wrote:
Can I order two panels please?!

Cheers!

Matt


Bump and make that 3 panels! Or 3 pairs if we're splitting the two sections?

Personally I'd prefer the resonator and x-pan on the same panel with insert points so that they can be used independently if necessary...
demian
Interested in 2 and 2 panels.
reggiechacha
Please count me in for 2 panels. Cheers
negativspace
Will do, gentlemen! I just got my PCBs from Matthias last Friday and I've decided to try and adjust things so that the boards can be parallel-mounted using standoffs... so right now I'm doing a little 'mechanical engineering.' I've not forgotten the project. w00t

I don't think I'll be able to get the x-faders parallel to the panel, but I can at least work in room for standoffs so they can be mounted without having to make brackets from scratch...
mOBiTh
excellent newz hihi

if you fancy sharing pics of the prototypes I'd be interested to see them!
ian-c
tagged.

i'd be interested to see what these panels turn out like, as i am currently building 2 each resonator and panner cards.

cheers.
synaptech
I know you're swamped negativespace, but just wanted to see if there's been any progress. thumbs up
astroschnautzer
Is this now going to be panels with x fader too in it or separate panels for xfade? Don't have the xfade pcb's so curious because of that...
negativspace
Ok, so I've finally found some time to get this thing together. I think I've managed to keep the symmetry intact and work in everything we collectively wanted in the Resonator panel. If anyone has any comments on this thing please don't be shy.




I wasn't able to fit the 3rd mounting hole, it'd be right on top of the jacks. I think the PCB is rigid enough that two mounts should hold it well enough, though. I'm getting a panel with my next FPE order so I'll be able to verify that as well as all of the fits, then it's ready to go forward.

I'm sorry for taking my time with this, I'm actually still not through my build queue but I needed to do something else for a couple days... zombie
thanatronique
Very nice, really like it thumbs up
Rod Serling Fan Club
why "mid" rather than "high"?
negativspace
Because the way this section of the circuit is designed, 'high' is in the middle position. (It's a 3-way switch.) My panel pictured in the OP is actually wrong. d'oh!

I should probably indicate that on the graphic... easy enough to fix.
asterisk
that panel looks good to me.
astroschnautzer
looks totally good to me too...
limpmeat
looks great
fonik
this look very nice and useful, and it covers almost everything i put on the latest custom built i did. i use audio input attenuation quite often, though.
negativspace
Agreed in the input level pot, that's the one thing I couldn't squeeze in. I'd have to lose a switch, and even then it'd be really tight at best. I thought about trying to go push-pull with the LFO RATE knob & do the Ch3 inverting that way, but I still think there's insufficient room.
samuraipizzacat29
i'm in for a few. need to check my stock on pcbs, don't remember how many I have (a good problem applause )
ringstone
Looking good to me... getting excited about building these. I'll be taking 4 panels as usual w00t

Cheers
Blair
Rod Serling Fan Club
I'm happy with it, cash in hand. Still doing the x-panfader panel? I have a few of thoese PCBs...
janvanvolt
Want two Panels, please ...
negativspace
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
I'm happy with it, cash in hand. Still doing the x-panfader panel? I have a few of thoese PCBs...


Yes, when I can find the time. Dead Banana

Prototype has been ordered, assuming the mechanicals fit properly this one is ready to move forward as soon as it arrives.
rowman
I'll take two of each plz
negativspace
NEWWWWWS!

FPE prototype showed up at my door about half an hour ago. It looks like my mounting holes line up properly and there's still room for the rail. The lower mount would be right overtop the 'cv' jack, so there's no support for the PCB near the power header. That means you'll have to use care plugging the cable in, but there should be no other consequences. I think this works! No bracket, skiff friendly. thumbs up

Given that the project is proven, I don't feel a need to build the module any further for the purposes of moving forward. So I'm going to go ahead with this one. I'll parse this thread and compile an orderlist ASAP, and will submit this for a final quote @ MPC while I'm at it.

On to the X-Fader!
thetwlo
excellent!
one panel for me as well, please.
THANKS!
negativspace
Mounting holes need a slight nudge farther apart, other than that it's perfect. I was able to fit the board on mine with a tiny bit of filing to the inside of the holes in the PCB. Should be resolved now in the design, so no worries.

I'm putting in for the quote tonight. This thing looks good! screaming goo yo


(I debated for a while about what look to give my production models... it was between this and the Davies-knob style I eventually went with. Sometimes I think I made the wrong choice.)
regenbot
great, thanks for doing these & all the other great DIY stuff you do we're not worthy
iopop
Great, put me down for one panel.
negativspace
Done.

The orderlist is now up, I haven't doublechecked it yet so if you spot an error please let me know.
regenbot
I'm not there and i want one thumbs up
astroschnautzer
I want 2
thanatronique
Please add my name to the list, I want one. Thanks.
ndkent
would like 2 resonator panels. would buy 2 xfader panels if made
Rod Serling Fan Club
please add me to the list for 1
keninverse
Would you put me down for 2 please?
Junk Rhythm
I'll take 2.
far gon
I would like to be added to the list for [2] panels.

Thanks! It's motherfucking bacon yo
wwall
Please add me to the list for two panels.
asterisk
id like 1 panel please!
thanks!
zdarma
Two panels for me, please.
hpsounds
Hey Jason, I'm in for 1 Resonator panel and 1 X-Fader panel. Can you put me on your list ? Thanks.

Hédi K.
synaptech
Count me in for 2 thumbs up
nangu
I'm in for 9, plus 9 of the X-Fader panels whenever those happen. Thanks!!
NV
I'm in for one resonator panel. Thanks negativspace!
mattrick
thought i'd already expressed interest here but i was mistaken.

please add me to the list for 1 resonator panel and note my interest in a crossfader panel when you get round to that.

thank you sir thumbs up
janvanvolt
Hi,

i'd like to modify my order to one Resonator and one X-fader panel. Was expessing it wrong in the first run. Can you PM me with payment details ?
mono-poly
2 please. pm me payment details.
negativspace
I just gave MPC the final numbers and am closing the ordering as of now. These are effectively in the manufacturing stage at this point and out of my hands. The next news I get about them will be when they show up on my doorstep. I'll let you all know! (Should be 2-3 weeks from now.)

I'm going to open up payment in a couple of days when I'm home from vacation, and after the order is confirmed by MPC.

When the panels arrive I will PM everyone who has not yet paid with all the necessary details. There is no need to pay me until then. I only open up payments early for your convenience.
iopop
hmm, noticed I'm not in the list on the first post although I expressed interest earlier in the thread. Did I miss the boat? No biggie if it is so.
negativspace
I swear I put you up there... and no, you absolutely did not miss the boat. I always over-order by about 20%, in case of errors/latecomers/occasional damaged panels or lost shipments. thumbs up
iopop
Thank you!
lazerkind
I'm not in the list either, maybe I was not clear in my post about this? hmmm.....


lazerkind wrote:
Definitely interested in a resonator panel.
The global CV option sounds nice, although not a must have in my setup.
negativspace
I think I wrote over a couple of entries... I know I had iopop in there at one point because I replied directly to him about it on the last page. I'll fix you too. d'oh!

(That or I just don't like you Swedes... hihi )
lazerkind
Thanks negative thumbs up
negativspace
I have my final quote now from MPC, so I can set a price. I'm going to update the OP now with all of the new information. w00t

edit: Done. We're also now open for payment. Those of you who need information on the FC>UK ADSR panels, don't worry. I'm going over to that thread now.
Rod Serling Fan Club
Do you think you will be doing the cross-fader panels anytime soon?
negativspace
I'm going to do my best.

I think I'll get a short recess here soon - I have to finish 17 more MA35s for Schneidersbuero, but I won't be getting the Mutinator panels (my next project) until about 3 weeks from now. That should leave me a nice uninterrupted window of at least a week to work on/prototype the Xfader & E350 expanders. It's motherfucking bacon yo
negativspace
Good news! The panels are here. Those of you who haven't paid by the weekend will get a PM from me then. (Lovely little form letter, very personal.) I'll start shipping the paid orders tomorrow.

Those of you who are also on the 140EG Resonator list, those are here too.
far gon
payment sent!

really looking forward to this project

and the upcoming serge res eq too Rockin' Banana!
mckenic
negativspace wrote:
When the panels arrive I will PM everyone who has not yet paid with all the necessary details. There is no need to pay me until then. I only open up payments early for your convenience.


Sorry for quoting this, I seem to be not getting some notifications of threads I subscribed to (Mostly in the DIY section for some reason) so PLEASE dont let me miss out on these panels smile Poke, abuse, kick, whatever me! Just lemme know smile

thumbs up

Many thanks for doing this!!!
negativspace
Whee! Ok, PMs are sent to those who are not marked as paid. Everyone else has either shipped or is packed up and ready to go later this week. There should be a few spares, so if anyone else is interested in one of these please let me know.

Thanks again, everyone!
______________________________________________________________

In other news, I've started on the panner and will be posting that in the next couple of days. w00t
far gon
Received!

w00t
negativspace


w00t
iopop
Received!

I have not looked at the thread but the only kludge needed on this one is the "all" cv in ?
negativspace
Correct - and that's the easiest possible 'kludge' to execute. In this configuration we're eliminating the global LFO Depth control and replacing it with the 3 individual CV input attenuators - which means that you'll have to jumper that header in order to get the LFO signal through it.

Well, don't jumper it with a piece of wire; run it through a switching jack instead. That's your global CV input. Works perfectly, and no hacking the board. 8_)
asterisk
if i dont want to use the channel 3 invert, do i have to put any jumpers on SW1?

i think im going to replace the invert switch with the LFO saw/ramp mod.


also im a little unclear how to wire up the global CV.
since i dont want the inverted LFO, can i just take the extra LFO out pad and run that into the switching jack of the global CV in? then the global CV jack goes to the switching jacks on CV1-3 inputs?

do i have to do anything with the LFO depth pads if they remain unused?

i guess im a little confused about the routing of everything. im ready to wire up my module.
negativspace
You'll still need to run the LFO depth pot's pads through the switching jack for the global CV input. (Think of the jack as a fancy jumper - that's really all it is.) Tip to wiper lug, LFO signal to N/C lug.

The 3 CV inputs are wired with the CCW lugs to ground, the center lugs to the PCB inputs, and the CW lugs to their respective CV input jacks. The LFO signal (or global CV signal, if you have one inserted) will then be wired to the N/C lug of each of those 3 CV input jacks. (Edit: because J1-J3 include this connection already. No need to do anything further!)

It all works quite elegantly, I promise. I built one to be sure. thumbs up
asterisk
is one of the pads of the LFO depth on the PCB an LFO signal?
do i grab the LFO from there or from the extra LFO out pad (WP6)?

and if im not using the invert switch, do i have to jumper it at all? or just leave it empty?

and its okay to take 3 separate wires from the global CV input lug to the CV1-3 n/c lugs?
negativspace
1) Yes, the LFO signal is fed directly into the Depth pot via pin 2 on the connector. For this panel, pin (2) instead goes to the N/C lug of the Global CV jack. Pin 3 goes to the tip lug. This just lets you replace the LFO signal with an external signal by plugging in a cable.

2) No, WP6 goes to the LFO Out jack. J1-J3 are used to wire the 3 channels' CV input jacks just like the docs instruct, and the normalling is taken care of that way.

3) Yes, jumper pins 1 and 2 to bypass the inverter section. If you don't, Ch. 3 won't get a CV signal except through its own jack.

4) Nope, just wire J1-J3 as instructed in the docs. (See #2)
asterisk
ok ive finished building my module.

the LFO isnt working at all. and the LEDs arent lighting up at all.

everything else seems to be working fine.
i tested individual channels CV inputs / depth and frequency and they all work as expected.

the global CV input jack is working fine too.

the mixed output jack is not putting anything out.
neither is the LFO output.

any thoughts on where i might have gone wrong?

this thing sounds amazing, i cant wait to get the LFO and mixed output working!
fonik
re LEDs:
they are in parallel to the LEDs inside of the vactrols, they are driven by the same circuitry. they just have their own current limiting resistor. so if the vactrols work fine (and that's what they do according your post), then there are only three reasons left: LEDs wrong way up, no connection to GND, or limiting resistors have a wrong value (too large).

re LFO:
this LFO is a simple and common integrator/comparator scheme. for now i can only recommend troubleshooting as usual: green line the circuit. meaure your work for continuity, especially triple check the wiring. in my experience most problems are due to wrong wiring.

re Mix out:
the single outputs are working, correct? the mixed output is just mixing these signals with an inverting mixer, 5 resistors (R6 - R10) and an opamp (IC3A). check for continuity and values.
jbaken
can anyone reccomend some interesting patches for this module? i built it awhile ago and have been feeling kinda uninspired by it. I think the normalled LFO might have something to do with it. Its weird having to use dummy cables when i dont want it (which is most of the time). might actually break the normals on mine =X
fonik
when i don't want it, i turn the depth control down 8_)

BTW i mostly use it as it originally has been intended. a subtle effect with slow LFO. alas, i am not very ceative in patching...
limpmeat
d'oh!

My Rev2.0 PCBs don't fit.

Suppose it serves me right for having a prehistoric backlog.
negativspace
Are they too wide, or are the mounting holes just off a bit?
limpmeat
too wide by about 8-10mm, I might just kludge it and put it next to a multiple or something where the pcb overhang won't be an issue
rowman
Received Boards, cheers.
negativspace
limpmeat wrote:
too wide by about 8-10mm, I might just kludge it and put it next to a multiple or something where the pcb overhang won't be an issue


Ugh... I can always make you a one-off panel that's 10mm wider, but it'd be ~$60. Dead Banana
limpmeat
Nah, it's no biggie.
consumed
has anyone built this with inverting attenuators on the cv ins? useful or not?
mOBiTh
Paid for three panels! (Finally - sorry!)
demian
Paid for two! w00t
frozenkore
What value pots are you guys using for the attenuators? B100k? B50k?

Thanks,
Brian
ringstone
frozenkore wrote:
What value pots are you guys using for the attenuators? B100k? B50k?

Thanks,
Brian


I'm using 50k, I hope to have my first one built and tested by tonight. I'll post here again if I have any issues.

Cheers
Blair
negativspace
That's one of those noncritical values... anything from 25k to 100k should work perfectly well. They're serving as simple dividers. (I think I've used 100k, that's what I have a giant stash of.)
frozenkore
Thanks! Does a higher valued pot cause an increase in attenuation velocity? Does that question make sense hmmm.....?
fonik
the actual input impedance is 220k, so anything up to 100k will be just fine and won't do anything.
however, if you decided to use a 500k or even a 1M potentiometer the response would change to be almost log!
at least that's what i read from my old electronotes article...
frozenkore
Cool thanks smile
negativspace
frozenkore wrote:
Thanks! Does a higher valued pot cause an increase in attenuation velocity? Does that question make sense hmmm.....?


No, the way these pots are wired as basic dividers and so all they control is the proportion of the signal which gets passed through to the input - i.e. @ 12:00 50% of the signal passes and 50% is sent to ground. The actual value of the pot doesn't have any effect on this ratio.

Like Matthias said, though, using a value higher than the input impedance can change the overall response curve. My rule of thumb when adding attenuators is to use a value equal to or less than the input resistor.
ringstone
My 50k attenuators worked just fine. In fact everything worked first go... first one built - 3 to go!

I can't seem to find much info on trimming these... I know the trimmers set the offset for the frequency range that each resonator covers - is there any recommended method for setting them up, and are people doing all 3 the same, or to cover different ranges?

Actually I think the first resonator on the actual PS-3100 covered a different range to the other 2...?

Cheers
Blair
hpsounds
negativspace, can you post a picture showing how the PCB and the panel are together ? Thanks.

Hédi K.
consumed
ringstone wrote:
My 50k attenuators worked just fine. In fact everything worked first go... first one built - 3 to go!

I can't seem to find much info on trimming these... I know the trimmers set the offset for the frequency range that each resonator covers - is there any recommended method for setting them up, and are people doing all 3 the same, or to cover different ranges?


good job! i had a few fixes to do when i built mine, but its finally up.

i was wondering about the trimming as well. im thinking its probably a 'trim-to-taste' approach.
ill probably set all knobs to 12oclock and trim them to match so that the knob position informs me where the resonator is doing its work.
negativspace
hpsounds wrote:
negativspace, can you post a picture showing how the PCB and the panel are together ? Thanks.


hpsounds
@ negativspace
Thanks !

Hédi K.
iopop
Here's mine,


Finally had use for the soft push-on knobs I bought years ago for my first modular project, which never really saw the day of light. Not really sure I have the controls right, have to fiddle a bit with better input signals. Also experienced some magic smoke since I never seem to get that euro connector oriented correctly. Pretty straightforward build otherwise and used 20mm standoffs for the pcb so its quite cramped behind the panel - but its skiffs friendly.
consumed
those soft touch knobs look really nice on there. congrats on getting it built and working!
negativspace
I finally shipped the last of these off this week. Since Matthias is not planning to offer the PCBs again, I'm not planning to make the panels again either. Thanks to everyone who participated in the run, and happy building!

I love to see finished modules, so feel free to gloat about 'em here. 8_)
hpsounds
I have one panel for sale (brand new) here : https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1058477

Hédi K.
samuraipizzacat29
can someone please clarify how to implement the ch3/invert switch? The normalling on the jacks is explained very clearly and carefully, but I'm confused as to exactly how to implement the inversion marked on the panel.

theenks
nate
keninverse
samuraipizzacat29 wrote:
can someone please clarify how to implement the ch3/invert switch?
nate


Check out Fonik's schematic on the last page of the build doc. The switch is wired up exactly as is. The PCB already has all the connections laid out...ie the spdt pole connection is already routed on the board to go the switched socket. I'm 99.99999% sure about this but just to make sure you could check the continuity b/w pad 2 of J3/CV3 and pad 2 of SW1.
samuraipizzacat29
ah, I see. I was making it more difficult than it had to be. I thought it was a mod and not a header on the pcb. d'oh.
keninverse
samuraipizzacat29 wrote:
ah, I see. I was making it more difficult than it had to be. I thought it was a mod and not a header on the pcb. d'oh.

Dude...I totally over-thought this build. I started reading through all the forum posts scratching my head. Then I went through the schematic and marked up how to build it. When I finally sat down to wire it all up, it dawned on me how painless it was to build this thing.
doobedy
Found a panel, sorta!

Thanks.
limpmeat
this might seem like a dumb question, but I am building this with V 2.0 PCB.

How do I implement the extra caps for fast/med/slow switch?
raisinbag
solder the *optional caps* into their respective places and follow the directions in build doc. Hook up the switch and you should be all good. I'm just working on mine, so that is what I am doing.
limpmeat
My board is V2.0, there is only space for one lfo speed cap.
regenbot
[/url]
limpmeat
Cool thanks for that
keninverse
Just wondering if anyone could help me out. I built 2 of these and both are operation with the exception of one unit acting a little "funky". Symptoms: When the first resonator's depth pot is full CCW it cuts all the depths to near zero and freezes the LFO. I haven't measured the voltage of the LFO on this but all the LEDs are the same brightness...they're really dim but lit. Another problem is when a jack is inserted into the first resonator's CV IN, the same behavior ocurrs but only for that resonator: CV depth stays low, external modulation doesn't affect CV but the internal LFO still modulate Resonator 2 and 3.

I was fairly certain this was a wiring error but I've compared both my builds and I can't seem to see any differences between the two. Is it possible this could be a bad pot or jack? Another symptom is when the jack is inserted in CV1 as the tip momentarily shorts to ground all resonators freeze and behave like when the depth pot is low which makes me think this may be a problem with something shorting.
negativspace
My first guess is that you crossed the cw and wiper wires on the depth 1 pot.
keninverse
negativspace wrote:
My first guess is that you crossed the cw and wiper wires on the depth 1 pot.

thanks...I'll give it another look
keninverse
negativspace wrote:
My first guess is that you crossed the cw and wiper wires on the depth 1 pot.

You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. This was the problem. Muchas thanks!
negativspace
Experience is a wonderful teacher. Glad that was it! SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger!
chrisp
hello, i have a serious problem with that module.

everything is ok but i don't have a audio signal at band 2 out also at sum and also at its output . When i turn the freq 2 the led it work !
The band 1 and 3 they work ok

i have replase already the: Vactrol, R25, C16, C19, I change also and the IC2 !
the R7 is working.

Can someone help me... i loose my mind...
e.vil
Hello good sirs.
I am having some serious wiring troubles with this module.
I am a total noob at diy. I have built a bunch of kits and such but I have gotten confused with this one.
I have basically wired everything as the instructions of the original fonik wiring thing.
but then i am missing the depth pots and universal cv and swithches.
i hooked up the wp6 to lfo out and the lfo out to the universal cv.
i have read this thread about 16 times now (especially the parts between you negative space and asterisk) and and just need to admit that I am confused and too stupid for this thumbs up
is there anyone who has drawn the wiring up or something? or if I drew it up would somone be able to show me what i need to do with the rest?
cheers.
LektroiD
How did I miss this... eek!

I've been asking around for a PS3100 panel for ages, nobody seemed to know where I could get one. Then I see this thread pop up saying [SOLD OUT]...

If anyone has a spare PS3100 panel they are unlikely to use, please get in touch!
samuraipizzacat29
The key to wiring this panel is not to over think it or under think it. Just the right amount of thinking is required hihi

All the panel controls (pots) are attenuators. So, isolate all the grounds and wire them together. Then, find all the cv OUTS. Wire those to the attenuating inputs on the pots or the normal sides of the jacks, depending on which controls you're doing. That cuts out one layer of confusion.

All of the other controls are on this version of the pcb. So there's not really any kludge, you just have to figure out what goes where. I'm on the road but can post more detailed responses when I get home.

Lektroid, I don't have an extra panel but have a completed module that needs re-wired you can have for a reasonable price.
e.vil
oh god yes!!! thank you mr. samuraipizzacat29 we're not worthy

Yeah I'm actually going on the road myself really soon. I hope that this is enough info for me to finish the module.

or else I'll ask you?

thank you so much man! hyper hyper
makers
I'm working out the panel wiring on one of these and I have a question...


negativspace wrote:
1) Yes, the LFO signal is fed directly into the Depth pot via pin 2 on the connector. For this panel, pin (2) instead goes to the N/C lug of the Global CV jack. Pin 3 goes to the tip lug. This just lets you replace the LFO signal with an external signal by plugging in a cable.

2) No, WP6 goes to the LFO Out jack. J1-J3 are used to wire the 3 channels' CV input jacks just like the docs instruct, and the normalling is taken care of that way.

3) Yes, jumper pins 1 and 2 to bypass the inverter section. If you don't, Ch. 3 won't get a CV signal except through its own jack.

4) Nope, just wire J1-J3 as instructed in the docs. (See #2)


Here, are the pins listed as 1,2,3 from Left-to-Right with the PCB text oriented "normally"? Or are they Right-to-Left for some reason. I'm confused because I thought I identified pin 3 as ground with a continuity tester and that doesn't seem to go along with the above description.

Edit- Negativesapce's description is accurate and correct for Left-to-Right. However, The "master" LFO depth pins (the group "jumpered" to a switched jack) are different though, Left-to-Right- pin 3 is ground.

Thanking you folks for any insight...
samuraipizzacat29
trust what you identify as ground. IIRC the middle pin is the cv output and the return is the other pin. so, just wire it like you would an attenuator and you "should" be in good shape smile
makers
Thanks! Got it going! I'm not sure why this wasn't more popular, I think it's got some great features and interesting sounds!
negativspace
Congrats on getting it up and running! Sorry I didn't see your question until now, but I'm glad Nate took care of you. w00t

Not sure why it's not more popular... I felt like my panel sales were pretty robust so it's not completely unloved. Maybe since Matthias does a retail version there's not as much call for the DIY units?

It does sound fantastic, and very much like an old piece of kit. Mine is now a part of my Miss10 standalone synth and it's just as convincingly "vintage" as any of the other MS-10 circuit clones - which I went all-out with and populated with NOS parts wherever necessary.
samuraipizzacat29
negativspace wrote:

Not sure why it's not more popular... I felt like my panel sales were pretty robust so it's not completely unloved. Maybe since Matthias does a retail version there's not as much call for the DIY units?


It's my experience this is a really popular design. Pretty much any filterbank is (and should be...). I think there's a ton of half-builts because it seems way more confusing than it actually is. I'm actually kind of glad the build docs failed me when/where they did because this was a learning "trust yourself and your tools first" build.

I don't think there's a retail version, at least not one i've ever seen. seriously, i just don't get it

ha, and as regards to your panel sales I think we both know the way things go in the diy section is:
1)release design and ask for pcb orders
2)"is there a euro panel for this?"
3)everyone orders panels
4) everyone gets pcbs and "puts their parts list together" but never follows through with a mouser order because it's more expensive than you thought and you want to pay combined shipping for all your other orders.
5)two months pass
6)panels come and you say "man, i've really got to build that" but have a family bbq to go to so it gets put off
7)6 months later you jest about the size of your "backlog"

Guinness ftw!
samuraipizzacat29
oh, hey, I just saw it's something present/future he (fonik's) doing so good on him.
makers
Well, I guess it's naive of me to say it's unpopular. I've only been on Muffs for a little over a year, but in that time I can't recall any posts about it. I guess this is a function of Trends.

Nate sold me the completed board with an unfinished Panel. I really enjoyed reading about the Korg PS series while I waited for them to arrive in the mail. Once again, I'm amazed by what's possible in this DIY community.

I'm getting all warm and fuzzy Lotsa Love
negativspace
Yeah, I guess even I have a skewed view. Matthias was on the 2nd run when I first got in. I wasn't into SDIY yet when the early versions were happening.
Rigo
samuraipizzacat29 wrote:
I don't think there's a retail version, at least not one i've ever seen. seriously, i just don't get it

It's mentioned here

Reminds me that I have it somewhere in my backlog to, should make a big order for all the parts for my backlog. And still waiting to get into the TTSH when it becomes available for order again.
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Page 1 of 7
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group