FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 

Blacet power cable crimper
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Blacet power cable crimper
Does anyone one know where you can buy the crimper? Is it cheaper to buy directly from Mouser or where ever?
haricots wrote:
Does anyone one know where you can buy the crimper? Is it cheaper to buy directly from Mouser or where ever?

It's an AMP MTA .100 connector, which uses the pistol handle and crimp head for about 160USD or a T handle manual tool for under 20USD. Mouser has both and seems as god a price as anywhere else. Be sure to get BOTH the pistol handle AND the crimp head if you go thew more expensive route.

If you're doing more than a few, IMO the more expensive option is definitely worth the price!

Kind regards, Randal
MTA .156

I get away with a pretty generic crimp tool, does my .100s as well. Cost me $20.

Not a huge fan of crimp connectors, I was once amazed to see that inside 1/4 million $$$ cement analyzers flimsy little 5c connectors are used to connect heater pads to a 12K crystal that reads radiation woah

I also solder the wire to the crimp pin then crimp. Just for the sake of over engineering.
i've made shitloads of cables by soldering and then crimping with pliers.
.......all good!
amen to that!
These kinds of connects are crazy over specced for synth system anyway so, the way I see it, there is a pretty wide margin here.

As long as you've got a nice solder joint & the crimped part is approx. the right shape / size to slot in (thats what she said) its fine. No propriety tools needed grin
I refuse to pay the the prices for the MTA tooling, especially since they only do one wire at a time. I made my own dies instead, and attached them to a converted dremel drill press that I now use as a press. I wrote a blog post about it here: Making IDC & MTA tooling, then go to the 11/2008 archive & scroll down.

@OP: I shouldn't have used the word crimp in reference to MTA's. They're IDC (Insulation Displacement Connection), not crimp. .100 connectors are available to fit Blacet headers with crimp or IDC style contacts. But AMP MTA's and their Panduit clones are IDC and should not be soldered. Make Flights setup or get the T-handle. Or the pistol and *IDC* head. Don't use a screwdriver. (unless you modify it into the t-handle blade shape and guides with files or a grinder.)

@dgtom: Soldering MTA's is a bad idea, because they're not designed to provide the proper support to the exiting wire. Especially if it has been "stiffened" by solder running up the strands through capillary action. Now I'm quite sure that a number of people could write, I did that twenty years ago and it's working fine." Fair enough, but it's still not a good choice IMO and the opinions of connector experts who spend their lives assessing these kinds of choices.

If you want to Crimp, use a crimp style .100 connector. Waldom and Molex are typical sources. But beware the idea that soldering a wire in a connector designed for crimping actually improves the connection. This is only true if the wrong crimp tool or wire size/insulation type is used in the first place. Which is itself often the reason crimp connectors end up getting soldered. A person has a bad experience with a poorly crimped joint, and/or decides that soldering must be better. Connector industry experts have long said otherwise, and have published the data and info to back it up.

@Flight: Yes, your setup is a good one for those with the tools and DIY skill to make it!

Kind regards, Randal
Thanks! Aside from the milling, the rest was done with: a drill, needle files, X-acto razor saws, a hacksaw and a vise. And the milling was just me being anal. But yes, it took some time and being totally obsessive.

Before I made those, I used modified screwdriver bits. I took a couple long-shank flat-bladesd bits that were about the same length and width as the AMP tool blade and cut slots in them to match the connector. Then I used a round needle file to make a groove so the wire wouldn't slip out. Then stick the connector in a vise, the bit in a handle, and go at it. Works great, I just needed something that would do an entire connector at once.
This one does it for me:
And just to make sure they don't pull out, after they are in the connector I use this:

Bam! Hot glue the muthas!!!

Thats what I like, simplify!

Randal, I just think you are over complicating things.
& you got me hmmm..... about .100 / .156, they are two very differant connections yes? We are all talking about the same thing here?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Page 1 of 1
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group