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Seeking DIY Eurorack Case Help
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page 1, 2  Next [all]
Author Seeking DIY Eurorack Case Help
archerofloaf
Hello fellow Wigglers.

I've been trying to search for an in-depth guide for building my own Eurorack case, and sadly I haven't been able to find anything with the information that I need.

Basically I'm at a loss as to the distance for drilling the holes to mount my racks so that they match the 3U spec. I'm guessing that it's metric, which I currently lack a ruler for. My friend has a countersink to help, and I believe he has a metric ruler as well since he's a cabinet builder.

I know I can probably use a faceplate to mark the distance on the side of the cabinet where I need to drill, but was just looking for a more accurate distance.

I'm also trying to find the size of the screws that I need to use so I can mount the rails to the side of my cabinet.

Sorry to make a thread if there's already a few. The muff search results yielded far too many threads for me to be able to sift through, as it pulls up "DIY" and "case" separately.

Any help is much, much appreciated.
n_m
http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm

Should have all you need to know.
cartoonbomb
If I was you I would get the hardware first, before worrying about measurements. Everything will fall into place then.

If I ever do my own cabinet, I'll probably just get some tiptop rack ears/rails and base it on that. Barring that, I'll get the Doepfer rails and use the design in the guide posted above. Just use the hardware as a guide.

What kind of rails?
n_m
Actually this one is better, page 5 on the PDF

http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/A100_DIY_kits.pdf

You can use an online converter from metric to imperial.

Hope that helps.
archerofloaf
n_m wrote:
http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm

Should have all you need to know.


Awesome! Thanks for sharing.

Still trying to figure out what size screw I need to use for mounting my Digikey vector rails, which I also just noticed that the center hole used for mounting is slightly off center, so will have to make adjustments for that.
archerofloaf
cartoonbomb wrote:
If I was you I would get the hardware first, before worrying about measurements. Everything will fall into place then.

If I ever do my own cabinet, I'll probably just get some tiptop rack ears/rails and base it on that. Barring that, I'll get the Doepfer rails and use the design in the guide posted above. Just use the hardware as a guide.

What kind of rails?


I've got the hardware, and the wood. Just have to make it happen. I've got vector rails from Digikey.

n_m wrote:
Actually this one is better, page 5 on the PDF

http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/A100_DIY_kits.pdf

You can use an online converter from metric to imperial.

Hope that helps.


It certainly does help! Thanks so much. Really appreciate it.
ucacjbs
[Edit - just read more of your posts that appeared while I was typing - don't think my advice is actually of any help seriously, i just don't get it very frustrating ]

Hi there - I went through this recently. What I did was to remove the rails from my HEK and just measure off there.

I found that the rails that the modules screw into are 4 5/16" apart.

For Z-rails, the screws that mount the rails to your case are about 4 13/16" apart.

From the top-most edge of the upper of a pair of Z-rails to the bottom-most edge of the lower of the pair of Z-rails is 5 3/16". (for my case, I made some brackets for each pair of rails, the brackets were 5 3/16" long and I added holes to attach the Z-rails to the brackets 3/16" from each end of the bracket.)

Anyway, even if my description of the measurements somehow makes sense, double check these with your own measurements before cutting or drilling anything.
qu.one
vector rails need threaded strips that are hard to find - or you can get square nuts ans screws (M2.5) from erthenvar: http://erthenvar.com/store/eurodiy/m25hardware
archerofloaf
ucacjbs wrote:
[Edit - just read more of your posts that appeared while I was typing - don't think my advice is actually of any help seriously, i just don't get it very frustrating ]

Hi there - I went through this recently. What I did was to remove the rails from my HEK and just measure off there.

I found that the rails that the modules screw into are 4 5/16" apart.

For Z-rails, the screws that mount the rails to your case are about 4 13/16" apart.

From the top-most edge of the upper of a pair of Z-rails to the bottom-most edge of the lower of the pair of Z-rails is 5 3/16". (for my case, I made some brackets for each pair of rails, the brackets were 5 3/16" long and I added holes to attach the Z-rails to the brackets 3/16" from each end of the bracket.)

Anyway, even if my description of the measurements somehow makes sense, double check these with your own measurements before cutting or drilling anything.


Really appreciate you chiming in, ucacjbs. Seriously. It does help.

To all that are helping my stupid ass figure this shit out...

Drinking

Hug


qu.one wrote:
vector rails need threaded strips that are hard to find - or you can get square nuts ans screws (M2.5) from erthenvar: http://erthenvar.com/store/eurodiy/m25hardware


Yeah, I'm not into the threaded strips. I've got screws (M 2.5 x 6mm) and square nuts on the way. Really appreciate you dropping the erthenvar link, that's where I picked up some stuff for the case.

thumbs up
rico loverde
archerofloaf wrote:
ucacjbs wrote:
[Edit - just read more of your posts that appeared while I was typing - don't think my advice is actually of any help seriously, i just don't get it very frustrating ]

Hi there - I went through this recently. What I did was to remove the rails from my HEK and just measure off there.

I found that the rails that the modules screw into are 4 5/16" apart.

For Z-rails, the screws that mount the rails to your case are about 4 13/16" apart.

From the top-most edge of the upper of a pair of Z-rails to the bottom-most edge of the lower of the pair of Z-rails is 5 3/16". (for my case, I made some brackets for each pair of rails, the brackets were 5 3/16" long and I added holes to attach the Z-rails to the brackets 3/16" from each end of the bracket.)

Anyway, even if my description of the measurements somehow makes sense, double check these with your own measurements before cutting or drilling anything.


Really appreciate you chiming in, ucacjbs. Seriously. It does help.

To all that are helping my stupid ass figure this shit out...

Drinking

Hug


qu.one wrote:
vector rails need threaded strips that are hard to find - or you can get square nuts ans screws (M2.5) from erthenvar: http://erthenvar.com/store/eurodiy/m25hardware


Yeah, I'm not into the threaded strips. I've got screws (M 2.5 x 6mm) and square nuts on the way. Really appreciate you dropping the erthenvar link, that's where I picked up some stuff for the case.

thumbs up
u should consider the threaded strips, way easier than sliding nuts. Just my opinion though
6.4 Billion
Pretty sure t-strut rails take 10-32 screws.

To find the distance there's a couple things you can do... there's a diagram on vector's site that shows the dimensions of the t-strut and from that you can figure out the offset from the rail centerpoint where to locate the screws.

Another thing you can do is mount your modules to the rails and then measure the distance between the mount points on the rails. Careful if you do this though, there will be a lot of play due to the smaller module screws (M2.5 vs M3) and a lot of potential for error.
widgetoz
You can make life a lot simpler by using our 40mm Side Plates. These plates come in 3U and 6U heights and provide the correct module spacing. The rails except tapped strips (we have both 2.5mm and 3mm tapped) as well as square nuts (we have 3mm nuts) and the rails can be 84HP, 104HP or 126HP. The Side Plates have countersunk holes to allow the assembled rack to be screwed in to your side pieces - simple
ucacjbs
Also, Erthenvar make some brackets for attaching vector rails to cases -
http://erthenvar.com/store/eurodiy/casehardware/casebracket3u

More expense (of course! meh ) but might make life easier, and also offers the potential for you to attach the rails to the case without making holes all the way through to the outside - you just sink a screw through the bracket into, but not all the way through, the wood of the case.
archerofloaf
ucacjbs wrote:
Also, Erthenvar make some brackets for attaching vector rails to cases -
http://erthenvar.com/store/eurodiy/casehardware/casebracket3u

More expense (of course! meh ) but might make life easier, and also offers the potential for you to attach the rails to the case without making holes all the way through to the outside - you just sink a screw through the bracket into, but not all the way through, the wood of the case.


Yes!!! I was thinking about those exact things and how they would certainly take the guess work out of all this, not to mention keeping things true as far as the distance between rails go. I'm going to go ahead and order 3 of them so I don't have to worry myself to death about getting the spacing correctly set.

Seriously, thanks to everyone so much for your speedy replies. Means the world to me.

Lotsa Love
ucacjbs
Well, there's always a balancing act of cash vs time vs frustration. My guess is that the wood costs, even if you goof a couple of times, would be less than the price of three of those kits. But the process of goofing a couple of times can be time consuming and sometimes quite demoralizing. But if you've got the time and patience, it can end up being more satisfying to take the long route.
archerofloaf
To be honest, another $60 spent for my 9U case for less headache = win. I'm a patient man, but I really don't want to get this wrong. I want everything to line up nicely, and if this gets the job done without any heavy guesswork / fuckups ... I'm all for it. Really appreciate you pointing those out for me ucacjbs. It's saved me quite the headache.

thumbs up
qu.one
6.4 Billion wrote:
Pretty sure t-strut rails take 10-32 screws....


yes - for mounting they totally do.
ucacjbs
archerofloaf wrote:
To be honest, another $60 spent for my 9U case for less headache = win. I'm a patient man, but I really don't want to get this wrong. I want everything to line up nicely, and if this gets the job done without any heavy guesswork / fuckups ... I'm all for it. Really appreciate you pointing those out for me ucacjbs. It's saved me quite the headache.

thumbs up


Yeah, I hear you. I ended up making my own brackets from some aluminum flats I bought at Home Depot. Which seems inexpensive til you consider I also bought a drill press just to do this hmmm..... Most of the guesswork was second-guessing myself. But let's say my experience hasn't been completely fuckup free. And there's been more than one occasion that I've found myself thinking this could have been time spent wiggling. hmmm.....

Here's one other tip. Wen you drill pilot holes for the screws that mount the bracket onto the side of the case, make sure to look up which size drill bit to use. I decided to eyeball it and then managed to drill holes that were a bit too big for the screws to properly bite. So that carefully cut piece of wood ended up on the discard pile and I had to make a new one d'oh!
windspirit
getting some great advice from this thread, also I appear to be an insomniac tonight
conscious
widgetoz wrote:
You can make life a lot simpler by using our 40mm Side Plates. These plates come in 3U and 6U heights and provide the correct module spacing. The rails except tapped strips (we have both 2.5mm and 3mm tapped) as well as square nuts (we have 3mm nuts) and the rails can be 84HP, 104HP or 126HP. The Side Plates have countersunk holes to allow the assembled rack to be screwed in to your side pieces - simple

where do you get these sideplates.
i almost went to a local Metalmanufactorer to have these build.
Im inside germany, so a european seller would be nice
widgetoz
I sell them on my website.
I get them made by a metalwork company. I will see if my new European representative will stock them
joshuagoran
@archerofloaf - are these the Digikey struts you are using?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TS209/V2005-ND/341218
angryblue
this is super helpful
mafouka
joshuagoran wrote:
@archerofloaf - are these the Digikey struts you are using?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TS209/V2005-ND/341218


I am wondering this too! Are they compatible with the m2.5 nuts? The digikey prices beat all other eurorack rail US distributors by a long shot.
klangbild
conscious wrote:
widgetoz wrote:
You can make life a lot simpler by using our 40mm Side Plates. These plates come in 3U and 6U heights and provide the correct module spacing. The rails except tapped strips (we have both 2.5mm and 3mm tapped) as well as square nuts (we have 3mm nuts) and the rails can be 84HP, 104HP or 126HP. The Side Plates have countersunk holes to allow the assembled rack to be screwed in to your side pieces - simple

where do you get these sideplates.
i almost went to a local Metalmanufactorer to have these build.
Im inside germany, so a european seller would be nice


look here: http://clicksclocks.de/
Email him for the price list.

Edit: arghhh - sorry, that question was way in the past. Just saw it after writing the post.
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