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Cabinet Mounting Rails?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> 5U Format Modules Goto page 1, 2  Next [all]
Author Cabinet Mounting Rails?
Hungryghost
Any European alternative to the Bridechamber 6-Module Cabinet Mounting Rails?
mumblinstevedubya
KRISP1 springs to mind

rails
Hungryghost
Thanks but It's the mounting rails for a Cabinet I'm looking for.. those are for 19" racks.

Maybe I should ask Krisp1 anyway....
sdracer77
Would these do you for a 19 inch cabinet from AllMetalParts

http://www.allmetalparts.co.uk/181-19-5u-black-mounting-rails-m4-black -screws-and-washers-5055726202936.html
mumblinstevedubya
Doh d'oh!

Let me know how you get on as I would like rails for the next cabinet I build too.
Hungryghost
sdracer77 wrote:
Would these do you for a 19 inch cabinet from AllMetalParts

http://www.allmetalparts.co.uk/181-19-5u-black-mounting-rails-m4-black -screws-and-washers-5055726202936.html


No thats for putting modules into a studio rack I'm after some rails I can put in a wooden cab....
JohnLRice
You are looking for MOTM mounting rails right, not Moog/MU?

If so, you might consider standard 19" rack rails mounted horizontally. The hole spacing is the same, although you'll need to use the next size up screws (10-32 instead of 8-32)

The only real problem you might run into is that a few modules might have a problem fitting since standard rack rail has a little more metal past the holes than a standard MOTM rail so there is a chance the top of a pot or the bottom of a jack might hit the rail. I've heard of people doing fairly large systems using 19" rail though, like 60U's worth, and not having a clearance problem.

And if you are worried about it you could always bring your rails to a metal fabrication shop and have them cut 0.10 to 0.20 inches off the rails. I would think it would take them only a few minutes and not cost much.

Here is an example picture I took a while back. The rail is unaltered and the module holes are also unaltered:
JohnLRice
Hungryghost wrote:
sdracer77 wrote:
Would these do you for a 19 inch cabinet from AllMetalParts

http://www.allmetalparts.co.uk/181-19-5u-black-mounting-rails-m4-black -screws-and-washers-5055726202936.html


No thats for putting modules into a studio rack I'm after some rails I can put in a wooden cab....


And, one other alternative, you could use rack mounted MOTM rails like the ones mentioned above and then hacksaw off the mounting ears and drive and counter sink some mounting holes to attach to your wood rails.
sduck
And Bridechamber will happily ship them to you over in yurp. As long as you're willing to pay for it, of course.
Hungryghost
sduck wrote:
And Bridechamber will happily ship them to you over in yurp. As long as you're willing to pay for it, of course.


It looks like I may have to... I was just a little shocked at the price... $352 plus whatever Import tax I get hit up with.
hard_sync
I'm in Australia and faced a similar problem when I outgrew my 2x10U 19" rack case.

Bought some 12mm aluminium extrusion (right angle profile, 3mm wall thickness), persevered through 30U (120 holes) with the drill press and hand-threaded them all with a #8-32 tap. Parts cost $24, the tap was $4 and four 15U rails were machined in one afternoon.

I just posted a pic of the case in the 5U picture thread if you're interested in what they were going into, the whole case was built from scratch.
Hungryghost
hard_sync wrote:
I just posted a pic of the case in the 5U picture thread if you're interested in what they were going into, the whole case was built from scratch.


Nice looking case!!! I'm making an angled cab so not sure the right angles would work but If i can get my head round it DIY sounds viable... not sure about drilling the holes myself though!!
hard_sync
Thanks matey, not the best angle to show it but it's 9mm polyurethane-coated ply, with all the edges wrapped in aluminium. Strong but lightweight for the size.

I'd think that if you used flat stock instead of a right angle extrusion, and profiled some wooden mounts to match the angle of the face of your cab, your project may work out even cheaper than mine did. Flat extrusions are easy to find, just pick something thick enough to tap a few threads into.
BendingBus
JohnLRice wrote:
You are looking for MOTM mounting rails right, not Moog/MU?

If so, you might consider standard 19" rack rails mounted horizontally.


I just finished remodeling my Lamond case with heavy duty 19" studio rack rails and thought I'd post some info in case anyone else needs it...



JohnLRice wrote:
The hole spacing is the same, although you'll need to use the next size up screws (10-32 instead of 8-32)


Right, my minor gripe is that studio rack screws look kinda chunky on MOTM. After digging around the dark corners of the internet forever, I had this major breakthrough; Penn Elcom M6 High-Point Rack Screws! From left to right: standard rack screws, Penn Elcom screw with washer, Penn screw without washer, MOTM 19a screw. So it's a bit bigger than a standard MOTM screw, but not too chunky. Now I just need to find some slimmed-down washers.



JohnLRice wrote:

The only real problem you might run into is that a few modules might have a problem fitting since standard rack rail has a little more metal past the holes than a standard MOTM rail so there is a chance the top of a pot or the bottom of a jack might hit the rail. I've heard of people doing fairly large systems using 19" rail though, like 60U's worth, and not having a clearance problem.


Yup, you gotta watch this. I had zero problems, but I measured like a zillion times before I started drilling; don't use overly thick brackets to mount the rails to the cabinet because with units like the MOTM-650 there's not much wiggle room on the sides, and make sure the bracket-to-rail mounting screw isn't so long that it ends up getting in the way of a pot or whatever. I didn't have any clearance issues where a pot touches the part of the rail beyond the screw hole (so far), but still have a handful of modules on the way.

Here it is loaded up with some modules. Even when butting up these Penn Elcom rails there is a little space between the rows, but it's so black in-between that you don't really notice it. Also I've still got the chunky Penn washers on in this photo, I found you can take a small MOTM washer and drill it out a bit more and it will work with a 10-32 rack screw, but that's kinda tedious. Hopefully Mouser has something I can use.



Blog entry with nerdy details: https://www.bendingbus.com/bendingblog/2017/11/1/modular-remodel-2017
JohnLRice
BendingBus wrote:
Nice job, looks great! love

You might consider putting some LED lighting inside your case? Light coming out of the jacks 'n cracks can look pretty sweet! cool
unrecordings
Very nice
On the washer front I use fibre washers.
Duratool M4 Fibre Washer (Mft Part No. D00791 / Farnell Part No. 278-476)

PatchMonger
That's a lovely case BendingBus. Never thought about using standard rails with a 90degrees plate. I would love to see more close pictures if you have any. I am planning on building new case for my small MOTM and have standard rails that I could re-use
Cheers
BendingBus
PatchMonger wrote:
I would love to see more close pictures if you have any. I am planning on building new case for my small MOTM and have standard rails that I could re-use


Here are some quick photos using my iPhone.

Bottom rails, I used the first large-hole in the rack rail to attach the bracket...


Top rails, I used the second large-hole in the rack rail. This way the heads of the bolts don't touch each other, and given the slight angle the heads don't touch the other rail...


Vertical gap; MOTM modules sit dead flush with the ends of the rack rails. In my case Ross built the cab with 1mm of wiggle room, so I have a 1mm gap on the left side, and modules touching the wood on the other side. This is why it's important to make sure your mounting hardware doesn't touch stuff behind the panel, it's pretty tight back there!


Horrizontal gap, I'm measuring at about 4mm. I think because rack rails are designed with a bevel they recede back into darkness and don't reflect much light, unless you shine a flashlight directly in the gap you can't make out anything. Also, this shows the screws without the chunky washer for the bottom unit (I drilled out a couple of small washers that come with MOTM screws).

Oh, and for the top rail I fastened it to the ceiling of the case, there is about a 2mm gap.



Here is the clearance issue JLR was mentioning. On this 440 there's maybe 2mm of wiggle room. No problems with my MOTM stuff, but this guy says he had to shave 1/8" off the rail to mount his Oakley ADSRs... http://www.recordingstudiocentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=500

PatchMonger
That's fantastic Thank you So much for the pictures!! I think I need to do a bit of planning and do it like this, it looks like a very elegant way to do it. My cabinet will be straight so hopefully clearance should be less of an issue but I will keep it in mind. Very nice page you have too, I need to check your music, always interested to hear music where modular have been used in the production!!
Rex Coil 7
I had to give up on finding module rails here in the US .... I went with using "T-Nuts" (otherwise known as "blind nuts") installed into the wooden mounting flange of the cabinet.



Don't know if I would call it "major surgery" but it certainly wasn't a 30 minute job, either. Had to go one module at a time, using the previous module as a spacing jig to bump the next module being redrilled against. I used a couple of business cards as spacers in between the set module and the module being redrilled to conform to the 0.010" gap between module panels spacing.

As far having rack rails machined down ... yea, the process itself only takes a few minutes, but the set up time is included in your bill. Minimum shop charges usually get involved as well. Expect to be hit with at least $50 to $75 to have a rail ~shaved down~ so the mounting flange won't cause fitment issues with a module's side flanges.

I would love it if there were some stainless steel module flanges offered, in both 1.75" and 2.125" centers to deal with both formats.

Or even better, a Vector Rail system with sliding nuts that's ~upsized~ to 6-32 hardware for large format modules. Now that would be a treat! With sliding nuts, you could easily mix 1.75" and 2.125" systems on the same rail.

~dreamin'~ ...... hmmm.....
Rex Coil 7
BendingBus wrote:
.... I just finished remodeling my Lamond case with heavy duty 19" studio rack rails and thought I'd post some info in case anyone else needs it...



..............



Blog entry with nerdy details: https://www.bendingbus.com/bendingblog/2017/11/1/modular-remodel-2017


Demonstrating excellent taste in quality gear, as well. The Hinton Instruments bus bars and module power cables stand out in any picture, even if they're not the featured issue.

Beautiful job remodeling your cabinet! High end gear, all 'round. Excellent execution of the installations involved as well. My compliments, well done.

thumbs up
beautyofdecay_
BendingBus wrote:
I just finished remodeling my Lamond case with heavy duty 19" studio rack rails and thought I'd post some info in case anyone else needs it...



JohnLRice wrote:
The hole spacing is the same, although you'll need to use the next size up screws (10-32 instead of 8-32)


Right, my minor gripe is that studio rack screws look kinda chunky on MOTM. After digging around the dark corners of the internet forever, I had this major breakthrough; Penn Elcom M6 High-Point Rack Screws! From left to right: standard rack screws, Penn Elcom screw with washer, Penn screw without washer, MOTM 19a screw. So it's a bit bigger than a standard MOTM screw, but not too chunky. Now I just need to find some slimmed-down washers.

That's looking great! I wish you posted this a couple of months ago before I build my new MOTM cases... confused
My previous cases had the Bridechamber rack rails but they were not available any more. I then decided to go for standard 19"rack rails (with square holes) and when I was half done building the cases I found out the Bridechamber rails were still available from Synthcube very frustrating
The Penn Elcom rails you use are better than the standard 19"rack rails as there is no vertical play for the mounting screws. Ah well... I'll keep these in mind for my next cabinet wink
beautyofdecay_
Rex Coil 7 wrote:
Or even better, a Vector Rail system with sliding nuts that's ~upsized~ to 6-32 hardware for large format modules. Now that would be a treat! With sliding nuts, you could easily mix 1.75" and 2.125" systems on the same rail.

~dreamin'~ ...... hmmm.....

That would be VERY cool indeed! cool
unrecordings
Schlumpfhut
beautyofdecay_ wrote:
Rex Coil 7 wrote:
Or even better, a Vector Rail system with sliding nuts that's ~upsized~ to 6-32 hardware for large format modules. Now that would be a treat! With sliding nuts, you could easily mix 1.75" and 2.125" systems on the same rail.

~dreamin'~ ...... hmmm.....

That would be VERY cool indeed! cool


https://www.makertronics.co.uk/openbeam-beams/

This rails wich can be equipped with 90 degrees braces and sliding nuts are offered in lengths up to 1m at a decent price.
Has anyone made experiences with such a system??
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