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Moog Voyager RME VX-351 / VX352
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> General Gear  
Author Moog Voyager RME VX-351 / VX352
MegaHercZ
I have an RME and wanted to interface it with my Eurorack setup.

Does anyone have experience with this setup ?
Is it worth getting the 351/352?
Do I need both? I want to have full integration with both Eurorack/Voyager.
I really appreciate anyone's input.
Thank you.
MegaHercZ
Nobody?? Really??
CZ Rider
MegaHercZ wrote:

Is it worth getting the 351/352?
Do I need both?

Seems like a lot of money for just a breakout panel. Here are the guts to the VX-351 output module.

You don't get much for the $279 they charge you. The only circuit is a 5 volt regulator for powering the three conductor pedal inputs. And a small poorly designed CV output buffer for the pitch with trimmer to set 1 volt per octave. That pitch CV output will droop if you connect multiple oscillators, depending on the brand. The sockets are cheap ass Neutrik ones with the plastic caps. I broke one just dissassembling it the first time and had to solder in a new one.

If you can DIY at all, the same money could build a much better custom panel that would match your chosen format. Especially if you don't need 1/4" sockets.

But if you are not into DIY, I guess this is the way to go. I have both for the RME. The VX352 is most usefull as it is the input module. While the RME I have here is not exactly 1 volt per octave input. It is a bit above that, something like 1.1 volt per octave. So you just need to attenuate the CV input to tune the scale. So if you want to control the RME with CV sequencers, ribbons, or joysticks, you need the VX352.
The VX351 is more usefull if you want to control your modular from the RME. This is a great option with the standard Voyager as you get CV's out from the touchpad. On the RME this would need MIDI sent in to be converted to CV, so that might still be usefull. It also does MIDI to CV but is linked to the RME and not a seperate channel. You also get the LFO out EG's output and a few other CV's to control a modular.

I found both of mine at used prices way below what they usually go for. I have the pinouts listed somewhere, and one of my next projects is building a combined output panel for the RME's.
proturboplus
Hi,

the VX-352 also has an internal trimmer to adjust it for 1v/oct, so no need for an additional attenuator.

(BTW, I've read somewhere, that build versions >14 of the VX-351 have the trimmer for the output installed and not the older ones, so make sure when buying used.)

Another think I would like to add, becauses it makes the RME really useful:

In the VX-352, you also have CV Inputs for the (missing) touch panel of the RME. With some menu diving, you can route these inputs to nearly any other parameter of the Voyager (ok, not all, but quite a lot). That really makes the Voyager more "modular" than several other modules out there (for example CV control for all envelope stages, filter resonance, spacing etc.)! nanners

Another thing to keep in mind is that you might need some amplifier modules as the Voyager voltages might be lower than other modules.

My RME really has become "alive" since connecting it to my modular.
CZ Rider
proturboplus wrote:
the VX-352 also has an internal trimmer to adjust it for 1v/oct, so no need for an additional attenuator.

Did not realize that. I'll have to take a look. Never did take the VX-352 apart. Makes sense though, because the Voyager PE here is not scaled at 1 volt per oct, something like 1.02 volt per octave. I was wondering why the RME's had a different scale on the CV input. (Actually have that backward on the above post. The RME with 1 volt is a bit sharp, so it's scaled around .98 volt per, while the PE is flat at 1 volt.)
I'm working on a dual module RME, planing to have all the ins/outs on a 3U panel below. Was going to mount it in a case similar to the Moog type P portable cabinet for live use. Going to need something like 100 1/4" sockets though.
EMwhite
Those jacks are a-w-e-s-o-m-e (ly bad). I spent 10 minutes searching my disorganized tool box looking for a socket to fit the unusually sized fake nuts come to find out (as you stated) they were fake plastic caps. Or rather, plastic caps that looked like nuts and sockets.

Considering how long ago the VX was designed, I'm surprised that components that poorly manufactured were available in quantity to justify the low-cost? d'oh!

But it's the perfect size to put behind a CP panel, with switchcraft jacks, active mults, properly driven pitch CV and the DB-25 behind. I was considering doing this via Ben @ Re:Synthesis. Wonder if anybody else would be interested. I'm not in a position to fab/etch a board for it, mainly it would be a hand wired mess but once done, the form factor and utility would surely be handy and then I could buy one of those fancy wood enclosures for my Minitaur.
SubliminalSandwich
I have the VX for my voyager (performer).. is is expensive for just a breakout box, but I cant DIY and ive found it indispensable for linking my voyager, Moogerfoogers and euro..

It seems I have extra Envelopes and LFO now and can patch conntrollers easily (I have 10x 1/4"-1/8" jack sockets on the back/front of my euro case).

Voyager as controller is really nice (Big Knobs make a difference!) although I suppose this will be lessened by not having a keyboard or X-Y pad on the RME..

So.. yes it ties it all together... so I think mine was worth it.. there is a little board you have to plug inside the voyager before the breakout will function, DIYers would have to overcome this too to get a functioning breakout box it seems.. :(
thetalkinghorse
CZ Rider wrote:
proturboplus wrote:
the VX-352 also has an internal trimmer to adjust it for 1v/oct, so no need for an additional attenuator.

I'm working on a dual module RME, planing to have all the ins/outs on a 3U panel below. Was going to mount it in a case similar to the Moog type P portable cabinet for live use. Going to need something like 100 1/4" sockets though.


Hi, new to this forum... I am interested in building a combined 351/352 for my RME.

Apart from the pin-outs/ ins, a load of 1/4 jacks, and the trimmers, is there anything else that I need to incorporate? I presume that the voltage trimmer is a variable resistor? (anyone know of what value range I would need and how to wire it in....total newbie to electronics). My only concern is accidentally not making something that causes me to fry the inside of my RME.
automat
I'd love to get some input on this as well. Just bought a second-hand RME to complement my modular setup, and would love to do some DIY for the 351/352.
Funch
does anybody know if there's an a schematic available for the VX 352 ?

seems like it would be easy to build one since Moog isn't offering this product any longer and they're very hard to find used.
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