Splicer... (new mini-project)

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J3RK
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Post by J3RK » Wed Jan 08, 2014 11:46 pm

The production boards are in the mail on the way to Synthcube now. :party:
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diablojoy
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Post by diablojoy » Thu Jan 09, 2014 1:57 am

hmm ideal diode circuits are fun
played with the original jim patchell one and phobos version for a bit
which is really good
:lol: i got carried away with it though and went too far, still have some weird and ludicrous prototypes floating around somewhere.
It probably wont happen today but if it does it definitely wont go smoothly.

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J3RK
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Post by J3RK » Thu Jan 09, 2014 11:54 am

diablojoy wrote:hmm ideal diode circuits are fun
played with the original jim patchell one and phobos version for a bit
which is really good
:lol: i got carried away with it though and went too far, still have some weird and ludicrous prototypes floating around somewhere.
Those are the best projects. I kind of do things both ways. In some cases, I simplify things down to just a core function, and see how small I can get it. In others, I just keep adding things until it gets a bit unwieldy and scale back a bit from there. :mrgreen:

It's interesting that when I was searching around for this I didn't come across Jim's or Phobos' versions. I was probably using the wrong search terms or something. I remembered the Plan B one, and set out from there into the world of rectification. :cloud: It's definitely a fun and interesting area to explore. I have some other ideas I'd like to try. Like 90 degree splices, but haven't started working on any of that yet. I have a stack of things I need to get prototypes for first. :mrgreen:
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oberkorn
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Post by oberkorn » Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:59 pm

The production boards are in the mail on the way to Synthcube now.
awesome! :party:
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diablojoy
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Post by diablojoy » Thu Jan 09, 2014 4:01 pm

It's definitely a fun and interesting area to explore. I have some other ideas I'd like to try. Like 90 degree splices, but haven't started working on any of that yet. I have a stack of things I need to get prototypes for first.
will look forward to what you come up with,
meanwhile attenuverters on the inputs are cool for this one
easy enough to add with foniks attenuverter chicklets, having said that 4 inputs and voltage control makes it nuts , and there i go again feature creep :lol: please ignore me that is not a serious request just an example of why i hardly ever finish anything fully - must be some sort of disease :lol:
It probably wont happen today but if it does it definitely wont go smoothly.

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J3RK
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Post by J3RK » Thu Jan 09, 2014 5:39 pm

The way I've started managing that sickness, is to start on a panel layout part way into the design process. (right around where things start adding up a bit) If things don't make sense on the panel, I adjust the design a bit. Doesn't always work, but it has helped a few times. Either with adding more features, or taking away extraneous ones. :mrgreen:
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synthcube
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Post by synthcube » Thu Jan 09, 2014 6:43 pm

We are awaiting the package anxiously :)

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synthcube
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Post by synthcube » Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:33 pm

the PCBs are available now for shipping via the webstore:

http://synthcube.com/cart/index.php?rou ... uct_id=307

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Bakeneko
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Post by Bakeneko » Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:49 pm

Did anybody come up with a Euro panel or is it out with the trusty drill press?

regards

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synthcube
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Post by synthcube » Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:55 pm

We're doing one but not quite yet!

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Post by Bakeneko » Sun Jan 26, 2014 2:34 pm

synthcube wrote:We're doing one but not quite yet!
Excellent.

cheers

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lvoemachine
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Post by lvoemachine » Mon Feb 03, 2014 5:21 pm

Here's a preview of my MU layout for the splicer! Let your ponytail down and splice it into a braid. I dare you.

I made this one a dual because it left too much panel space to just be a single module.

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Post by ashleym » Mon Feb 03, 2014 7:15 pm

J3RK wrote:I'm quite happy to send PCBs over to Thonk. Just need to arrange it.
Any boards passing over the pond to Thonk or should I order from Synthcube for me in the UK? Thanks for finishing this, great to have a useful tone bender especially as I can have it on a panel with sockets only. Slim is sometimes best.

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iL
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Post by iL » Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:53 am

finished my pcb!

fastest build ever. i wonder what the cv is doing and if its good to have a bipolar attenuverter before it?
or does it make more sense to attenuvert the wave input signals.

going to build this in a 4hp euro panel.

missed the marks for +/- on the supply header, but i guess the bottom ( on the picture of the pcb ) is -

no ground pad also so i hook it on the supply header for ground.

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J3RK
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Post by J3RK » Tue Feb 04, 2014 11:40 am

iL wrote:missed the marks for +/- on the supply header, but i guess the bottom ( on the picture of the pcb ) is -

no ground pad also so i hook it on the supply header for ground.
You are correct. Looking straight at the top of the board (where the text is right-side-up) the top pin is +, bottom is -. (same as MOTM, etc.) I'll get it added back on to the board layout for future runs. Sorry about that.

Since there are normal and inverted outputs, I don't know how important it would be to be able to invert the CV signal. However, a standard attenuator might be nice, if you don't have them elsewhere in your system.

Will also get a ground pad added. :doh: I was basically using this as an add-on to a VCO in my own system, and this completely slipped my mind (since it was grounded via the rest of the VCO module. :ripbanana:
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iL
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Post by iL » Tue Feb 04, 2014 12:05 pm

well i found the right +/- by looking at the elkos. at least i thought 50/50 chance and pluged in the power. nothing happens ( at least no smoke and the supply doesnt got angry ). :hmm:

just asking for the cv because there might be space on the 4hp. maybe i can build it like this: having an extra attenuator in the system for cases i dont use the splicer. and i got plenty of the fonik cricklets attenuverter left.

so cv flips the w1+w2 symetry by voltage?

thanks!
J3RK wrote: You are correct. Looking straight at the top of the board (where the text is right-side-up) the top pin is +, bottom is -. (same as MOTM, etc.) I'll get it added back on to the board layout for future runs. Sorry about that.

Since there are normal and inverted outputs, I don't know how important it would be to be able to invert the CV signal. However, a standard attenuator might be nice, if you don't have them elsewhere in your system.

Will also get a ground pad added. :doh: I was basically using this as an add-on to a VCO in my own system, and this completely slipped my mind (since it was grounded via the rest of the VCO module. :ripbanana:

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iL
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Post by iL » Tue Feb 04, 2014 5:35 pm

finished it up, front panel could be better but my printer does not work anymore.

used simple attaenuerter for the wave inputs and germanium diodes.

its really great for morphing lfos, two different coarsed lfos and the splice does strange morphings.

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Image[/img]

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waggles
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Post by waggles » Tue Jul 29, 2014 2:32 pm

Getting my parts order together and was wondering- does is matter what value I use for the bipolar caps, or can I just use whatever i've got sitting around?

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J3RK
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Post by J3RK » Tue Jul 29, 2014 3:53 pm

Those are just bypass caps. Some people like 10nF some like 100nF. I've used both, but have standardized on 100nF these days. The circuit will actually even work fine without any, but it's good practice to use them. Anything in that general range should do ok.
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waggles
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Post by waggles » Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:11 pm

K sweet, thx

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synthcube
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Post by synthcube » Fri Jul 17, 2015 11:40 am

The dotcom/mu panels are now in stock and available bundled with the PCBs.
Kits and assembled versions on the way....

http://synthcube.com/cart/index.php?rou ... ath=99_103

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lvoemachine
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Post by lvoemachine » Thu Nov 12, 2015 10:28 pm

Is there a BOM for this yet?

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lvoemachine
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Post by lvoemachine » Fri Nov 13, 2015 2:19 am

Image

Tadahhhh!

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synthcube
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Post by synthcube » Fri Nov 13, 2015 8:29 am

lovely!!!!!

here's the BOM... loaded on the webstore also, for the kits that are now available there.
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raveboyy
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Post by raveboyy » Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:08 am

So what is the main difference between a *classic* Xfader and this one?

Is this one basically the same thing only the quality is not so good for audio, but good enough for lower frequencies?

EDIT: Ignore this one, I already understand :)

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